Jeff H

What does the "shorting plug" look like? 

Great questions Bob.  The ABS diagnostic might help explain the strangled beeping and ABS Light I get on wet roads.

11 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Here is the 120vac from a 2006 Dip. I didn’t realize this wasn’t in the files section. 
 

@Frank McElroy can you add it?

2006 Monaco Diplomat 120VAC Diagram.pdf 104.16 kB · 8 downloads

Thank You Scotty.

The questions made me realize I wasn't too familiar with the system and I shoud change that.

Will do

Thanks

Hello

I have a friend with a boat that wants to install a generator and an inverter/charger.  He has asked me how the system works and I am not entirely sure.  So is there a diagram out there that would show how the Shore power/ Gennie/ inverter are wired for a 2006 Diplomat PDQ?  I looked in the downloads  section but I could not find one.

Thank you

If you have an enclosed trailer, could you not put a battery bank in the trailer to charge by the panels and electrically at the CG then use that to charge the car overnight or on the road?

Make sure the valve between the fresh water tank and the pump is closed.  I have missed it a couple times because it is behind the pump.

Thank you all

I was leaning toward the cut off switch because I went out to move it into storage today and the magnum display and the inverter LED were turning on and off.  That is the switch I have.  It is turned off now as the RV is put away for the winter.  I will order a couple and change the house and chassis switches out in the spring.  Is there a Switch that is recommended?

10 hours ago, redstickbill said:

In your Diplomat the solenoid will be in the FRB, lower left corner of the big circuit board,  there should be photos in the group's files.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

Ok I will see if I can find it.  Went out today and everything seems to be working.  Gotta love intermittent problems

5 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Do you have a set of electrical diagrams in your owner's manual to reference its location?

No I do not

Ok

I assume that it is in the FRB?  There is a number of relays in there. 

How do I identify it? 

Can I just connect the switched wires and cap of the wires to the coil?

Hi All

MY 2006 Diplomat has been sitting in the driveway plugged into the garage waiting to be put away for the winter.  I went out today and nothing on the 12V circuits was working

1. Magnum panel was working, the batteries are float charging
2. The EMS was blank
3. The microwave was working
4. I checked the inverter, the breakers were ok and there was a light on the back of it.
5. I flipped the "salesman" or "Batt Cut Off" Switch (Which has never done anything before) and nothing changed.  I think it has been bypassed.
6. I started the generator it ran a bit rough (maybe cold) that did not change the state of the EMS panel nor the lights.
7. The slides work.
8. The house battery switch is on

Is there a "master" 12v switch or fuse?

The only out of ordinary situation maybe that the propane ran out and the furnace fan was running for an extended time.

My situation was not exactly the same but my coach is a 2006 Diplomat.

When I dumped air only the back was going down.  It turned out to be a bad ground on the front solenoid.  So there is more than 1 dump valve/solenoid is what I am saying.  Perhaps the issue involves the rear solenoid.

Hi all

With a  little more dissasembly I have discovered it is a Thetford Style PLus Mod 34425.  Still can't see where the water is coming from.  I am going to try a local RV store we saw yesterday to see if they have any parts before I tear it apart.

Good Morning

I have a Thetford toilet (porcelain base with a foot pedal) that is leaking.  It is not a large amount of water and seems to be clean. 

I pulled the plastic cover around the base back and it seems to be coming from the bowl.  There is water built up in cavities in the base.  The connections seem tight.  there is water at the red arrow it then drips into the cavities below the blue arrow, then overflows or gets jostled out and ends up on the floor.

Is there a connection in the bowl somewhere?

A Little further investigation it appears there is water spraying out of the back of the bowl near the top.  There are some hoses right there so I think one has sprung a leak o ra connection is bad. 

On 8/24/2020 at 12:59 PM, Eric M said:

Thank you for your opinion.  What i am not understanding out of all this is the "foggy glass" unless it is a dual layer glass with gel/plastic inbetween for thermal control and that gel/plastic became discolored.  Then, the post spins around and talking about leveling jacks. 

I'll keep my opinions to myself. And, if this happens to me, i will then reach out. 

Eric if you catch it soon enough the glass can be reused.  Every time the condensation appears between the panes and then evaporates, whatever minerals were in the water remain on the glass (like hard water stains).  The longer it is left the harder it is to clean,  At some point it becomes impossible.

5 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

A couple years ago I went through this exact thing.  I read up on disassembling, clean/polishing, reassembling with descant, and reinstalling.  From what I read, my windows were beyond cleaning/polishing.  They had been fogged and streaked for over a year.  So, I went to my local, competent, auto glass company and asked them.  They told me they would remove my window, patch it with plastic so I could drive it home, take the window apart, measure and cut the two panes of glass, but they would have to send the panes out for tempering.  They did not have the requisite oven in house to temper glass.  That took almost 2 weeks counting shipping back and forth.  Then they reassembled the window with new seals and called me to bring the coach back.  The then reinstalled the window.  Total cost about 2 years ago was just under $250.  

I shudder when I hear people replacing their windows with plain glass that was cut on site at a campground, and not tempered.  I'm not intimately familiar with Laminated glass, such as to know if you can purchase a sheet of it, and then cut it on site, and the integrity of the glass remains.  All Auto glass must be laminated (usually the windshield) or tempered, whether it's single or double pane.  That is so when the glass breaks, it is either held together by the plastic film (laminated) or it crumbles in small pieces.  You don't want shards of glass cutting you when the window breaks.    

Yes you can cut laminated on site.  you have to scre and break one side, flip it over and repeat, then use a torch or methyl alcohol to soften and and melt the interlayer.

2 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Thanks for the quote and the clarification.  I probably mistated or used the wrong terminology.  

For YEARS, there was the "thought" that Atwood used an inert gas and that was the secret and you got a better seal (I guess vacuum was the wrong word).  However, the lady told me that their glass supplier just "ran a bead around the two panes" and did nothing special to the interior or did not use any gas or such...just plain air...  I have done or set up or been involved in a lot of testing and such.  I had it in mind that a vacuum was applied and an inert gas was injected.  What you describe is the high tech way with instruementation.  I can remember when we had to inject a sealant or impregnate something or have a good seal that we pulled a low vacuum and then injected a solution or whatever and then sealed it up.  Thanks for the detailed info.

That misconception or the need for a "special gas injecting" procedure to match the OEM specs was incorrect....so that was my intent to burst that myth bubble....

Tom...

The "balanced" method keeps the pressure on the glass as it is filled.  Calibrating the machines can be interesting as too quick a fill rate compared to the evacuation rate will cause the sealed unit to "balloon" and possibly burst. 

Krypton and Argon are a whole other debate as the sealers used are slightly permeable, so in a few years the airspace is just air.

46 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

There is another thread on something similar to this.  FWIW....here are some facts.  i spent a LOT of time talking to the ex Plant Manager of Atwood Glass and she told me what went on in the Glass Company as well as the Atwood operation.

• the glass is tempered and tinted.  If you replace it, then you have to find a piece of glass and have it specially cut and ground and then tempered (don't know about the tinting), otherwise a REPLACEMENT piece MAY look different.
• RV Glass and all the other guys have a special thickness of Laminated Windshield Glass.  They cut and grind and fit and reassemble.  You MAY see a difference in the appearance...  that is a personal call.
• If you go that way , the Laminated Windshield glass (two ply with laminate inside), will NOT have any future fogging issues.
• If you remove the glass, then any good glass shop can pull apart the glass.  The Atwood Glass is just that.  Tempered and tinted.  They fixture it up, put in a spacer or somehow (maybe vacuum clamps?) keep it separated.  This is NOT like the LOW E glass in your house where a vacuum is pulled and an inert gas (argon, nitrogen, etc) MAY have been used.  They just run a bead of a special silicone around it.  Don't know if they have a vacuum tank or a water tester that checks the seal or the integrity of the seal.
• THEN....it is shipped to folks like Atwood (who also do replacements) and they reinstall that pane in the original frame.
• YES....if you pull it apart....then remove any water or mineral deposits and then clean (polish) and such, then you have the same thing (hopefully cleaned and not streaked or spotted) and then you just put in some spacers or do opposite sides with spacers in the other two.  Once set up, you then do the other.
• The glass shop or you also need to measure the original thickness of the assembled (bonded and sealed pane) and duplicate that.  if NOT and it is out of spec, there is a HIGH DEGREE (100%) probability that when reassembled or being reinstalled, the compression or the stress from an out of spec thickness will shatter at least ONE of the panes.  Ask my how many times a friend who ran a glass shop tried to put in a SINGLE pane of tempered glass in my boat.
• Put it back together and then follow the instructions (you need a double stick special tape) and reinstall a window.  RV shops do that all day long for refrigerator installs...

Hope this helps....there has been some myths about such...so I spent a LOT of time getting info on the process (as an old Manufacturing Engineer tends to do), so that I could make the above comments....

Hi Tom,

Since you are interested in getting it right, which you MOSTLY have, I will make a couple corrections.  I own a company that fabricates and installs commercial windows.  We also make sealed units. 

The bronze or grey tint in our RVs is pretty STANDARD across the industry.  any difference comes from the THICKNESS of the glass (More tinted glass means darker window)

You are CORRECT that tempered glass is cut and then tempered so We would have to send a pattern away to a tempering plant in order for a specific shape to be made.

There there is NO vacuum pulled on the glass.  If Argon or Krypton is used it is pumped at the bottom of the unit and air is pumped out a similar rate at the top of the unit until a specified % of Argon is sensed coming out.  A vacuum will cause the 2 lites to touch which is considered a WARRANTY FAILURE as you lose all the insulating value where the glass is touching.  If anything the glass is slightly pressurized in relation to the atmosphere it is assembled in.  I have received sealed units built at higher elevations with breather tubes he had to pinch off so that the elevation difference did not cause them to collapse.

You are CORRECT, cleaning and matching the OD are CRITICAL

Well Done Ivan.   The key is getting the inside surfaces perfectly clean and then not getting fingerprints on it.  I work with glass and we have had sealed units with stickers stuck to the inside, finger prints, scratches, even flies.

10 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Yes, it was $245 for the Laminated Glass in a tinted color or clear. Then there is a labor charge for cutting plus shipping to Florida.

Since I was getting an estimate for a total of four windows it is difficult to figure out what those additional charges would be. You would have to call them directly in Oregon to get a side-glass quote for your specific entry door. Not all entry door glass panel are the same.

BTW, the glass is warranted for lifetime to never fog again as it is double pane laminated.

 

Technically it is single pane laminated.  That is why they offer a lifetime warranty.  There is no seal to fail.  Laminated glass is 2 lites of (usually 3mm) glass laminated with a plastic interlayer so there is no seal to fail.  There is also no insulating value if that is a concern.  I know my windshield fogs and condensates a lot more than the side windows in cool spring/fall Canadian weather. 

As someone else mentioned  you can remove the glass, cut the panes apart, clean them (you might need CLR),bring them to a local glass shop to be resealed.  It would probably be best to call around tho see if any make sealed units.  If you brought it to me to do I would charge less than $100.00CAD.  If you cannot find someone to seal it, you can do it your self with automotive urethane or a good neutral cure commercial silicone.  The silicone will take days if not weeks to properly cure.  The trick will be the spacer 1/8" spacer is not very popular.  You might have to use a glazing tape as a spacer.

The last option is to take it out and have a new one made probably less than $400.00CAD

Hello,

Is that picture behind the wet bay panel?  I assumed the panel on my 06 Diplomat will have to come out which looks like a bit of a chore.

Thank you all for the suggestions.  I tried a number of things to no avail.  As near as I can tell, as much out of desperation than logic, I turned the Chassis battery switch off an then back on.  I had the ignition key in the on position so all the clicks and whirrs from the engine started.  I went back to the drivers seat and tried the jacks and they worked!!   Logically, "turn it of and then back onto reset it" doesn't make sense because the Chassis batteries were removed for nearly 48 hours. 

Anyways thank you all for the help.  Hopefully the issue doesn't reoccur. 

19 minutes ago, Traveling Nutts said:

I had a similar problem with my hydraulic leveling jacks on my 07 Camelot, the pictured breaker had tripped and just needed reset.

Where is that breaker?

6 hours ago, Steven P said:

There is a control box in mine under the passenger side storage bay in front of the rear wheel. Open the door and look up, unplug the power for a minute or 2 and replug.  That may reset it. 

Chassis batteries were removed for 2 days so it should be reset.  I will give it a shot anyways.

Yes I tried auto.  jacks will not extend or retract.

Yes parking brake set, tranny in neutral. It worked long enough to raise the front of the coach a few inches.

Hello all

I took my 2006 Diplomat PDQ out of storage last week.  The chassis batteries were very weak and I have replaced them.

Before replacing them I tried to level the coach after getting it home.  In manual I lowered the front jack to where I was happy.  When I pushed the button for the rear nothing happened.  I got out and looked and the jacks had not moved.  I usually can hear the pump and there was no noise.  I tried to the front again, nothing.  I tried to raise the front jack, nothing.  My first thought was I blew a fuse.  I have checked all the fuses in the FRB that have anything to do with leveling, hydraulic or air and all are good.  So my next thought was the battery was so low it couldn't run the jacks.  I replaced the batteries. same issues (it starts very easily now)  I'm not sure the battery has anything to do with it but it was part of the chain of events.  The control panel lights up like normal

So is there another fuse somewhere?  Any other suggestions?   Can the jack be raised manually?   My owners manual only has information on RVA jacks

Thank you in advance