Jeff H

12 minutes ago, Doug Hoegh said:

Jeff I’m late to this party, but curious where you placed your new AV amp?  I use the compact Marantz that fits in the cabinet, but found that it was overheating from the tight enclosed space. Now considering other location options.  And you are correct, the Magnadyne speakers are 6 ohm and a not very good product. I changed mine to Polk Audio 8 ohm speakers and very happy.  

Hi Doug

I put it in the same cabinet the original was in  I made some legs for the DVD player to lift it off the A/V amp.  I realized last night that the Remote won't work with the cabinet door closed so I will probably put some thing under the A/V Amp to give it a bit more air circulation although leaving the door open when it is in use is probably not a bad idea either.

What model of Polk Audio speaker did you use?  Was it a powered Sub?

5 hours ago, Bill R said:

Jeff - I just installed the same exact Sony Amplifier/Receiver in my coach.  I had to learn a lot, but they are working as they should now.  You do need to pay close attention to all the sound selections.   

Not sure if you have the same set up, but my coach has a Riverpark Radio/AV switcher.  Now with the receiver I really don't need that, but am keeping it for now.  There is a button switch in the cabinet above the drivers seat that will switch between Radio and Amp.  I had to figure out first that I needed that off for the Amp to work.  

The original Surround Sound Amp for my coach was the RCA RTD300 with 6 ohm output.  So I figure speakers are at least that.  Also, the subwoofer is a passive subwoofer, so you will need to purchase an active powered subwoofer as @waterskier_1 mentions.

The upgrade though is so much better now as I can use the HDMI/ARC function with my ROKU TV and DVD player.  Also is nice now I can watch TV in surround sound.

Hi Bill

I had a switcher but I never used the satellite and we got rid of the bedroom TV.  It was just taking up space so I got rid of it.  I have Starlink and a WiFi/ Cellular modem so i can get all the TV/Movies I need.  I do like the new setup and the new TV.  Should have done it long ago.

2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

Jeff, as I mentioned in my previous post, my sub was not powered.  It needed full power (versus a Sub pre-amp) out of the A/V Receiver.  If you tell me the specific brand & model of your A/V Receiver I might be able to provide better guidance.  My Marantz A/V Receiver has a 7.1 amplifier, but I only am using the existing 5.1 speaker configuration.  This allowed me to connect the sub to one of the remaining 2 powered amplifier channels.  It is not exactly the same as a sub-output, since it has the full frequency response, but the sub can't respond to the higher frequencies, and I have not noticed any distortion.

 -Rick N.

Sorry Rick

I thought you were asking for the make and model of the Motorhome.  Here are some pics of the box the A/V receiver came in.

Ok,

So I did mis-wire the speakers. 

Depending on the "mode" the A/V receiver was in (Front Surround /Direct/ HD/ Dolby/ Music) changes how the speakers are used.  This added tot he confusion.  At one point the rear R speaker was playing sound from all but 1 channel and the rear L was not responding at all.  Also there are You Tube videos that will test surround sound so you can visually see where the sound should be.  But as it turns out my phone doesn't play 5.1 surround so it seemed like the rear speakers weren't working.  Once I got you tube on the new TV and used the video there (after getting the wiring straightened out) the only thing that doesn't work is the sub woofer.

I am wondering if I need a powered sub.  Not a big deal for the amount of watching we do we can live without the Sub.  There is 2 pairs of orange and black wires going to the sub only one of which has continuity with the wires at the A/V receiver.  Ther is no power wire so the factory sub must not be an "active sub"

Oh, and just in case anyone was on the edge of their seats wondering about impedance,  the sub had a label that said 6 Ohms which is at the low end of the A/V receiver tolerance but it should work.

I kinda miss the old days when a boom box was all you needed.

Thanks all for the comments  

47 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Assume you are dealing with just the two rears and maybe a sub but not the two front (plus, I have a center channel).  The two front’s are fed off the “12 VDC” switch or an electric solenoid speaker switch that is normally closed….passing through the F Left and F Right.  Turn on the dash radio, the “antenna up” signal controls it.

Just passing this on…as some are NOT aware of how the speakers are wired…

It is 2 front speakers,1 centre front, 2 rears, and a sub (5.1).  They are separate from the dash stereo speakers.

The manual for the A/V Receiver says 6 - 16 Ohms.  I don't think it is an impedance issue as the ones that work, work well I just wanted to eliminate the possibility.  I will take a speaker further apart to see if I can find a label.

2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

What year and model coach?  On my 05 Exec the Sub Woofer does not have it's own amplifier - so I could not use the typical Sub-Woofer output of my Marantz A/V Receiver.  Since this is a 7.1 A/V Receiver, and I'm only using 5.1, I used one of the other channels to power my sub.  Granted it has all the frequencies, but the sub will not respond to the higher ones.  There is likely some inefficiencies, but I can't hear them.  I had no problems using the 8 Ohm outputs for the speakers.  Are yours dead, or just low volume?

  -Rick N. 

2006 Diplomat

Well it seems like the speakers are mixed up but despite that some are very quiet.  It almost seemed at first the sound was twisted 90 de to the right in relation to he TV.  IE if you are sitting in the DS couch the L and R are correct.  

The Sony A/V Receiver said 6-16 Ohms but I didn't see anything on the speaker.  Just thought I would eliminate that as an issue. 

I think there is something going on with the connector plug so I am going to find a way to isolate each speaker and make sure they are all working and that the wires are marked correctly.

Hello

Does anyone know the impedance of the surround sound speakers?

I have changed the receiver/amp along with the TV and now I am having some issues with the speaker wiring.  I took them off the old receiver and transferred them 1 pair at a time but it seems like nothing is right and the sub isn't working at all.

9 hours ago, W7BE_Bob said:

Mopar should have included an extra pole on the switch to take care of the fuse. This thread https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/jeep-grand-cherokee-death-wobble-339594.html has 500+ posts on death wobble and I believe this is the thread where several posters were very involved in a Mopar death wobble solution. Jeff, Suggest you check and ask your switch question in this and perhaps other irv2 threads. 

Hi Bob

I will check out the IRV2 forum.  Removing and replacing the fuse is part of the procedure in the manual/update so I don't think Mopar planned on a switch.

8 hours ago, W7BE_Bob said:

Jeff, Various vehicles have the well known death wobble which is a result of switching to EPS. The EPS system does not have adequate damping for towing and may not be limited to earlier EPS systems. The fix that is available for some Jeep models/years is a wiring harness, switch etc. Turning it on for towing enables EPS and hence you will need to have a adequate charge line from the MH for EPS and aux brake as otherwise the battery gets drained. My 14 GC Overland has hydraulic steering with an electric motor for the pump, so no problem. To be clear the switch etc. does much more that bypass a fuse and the battery has to remain connected.

This is a serious issue and there have been pictures posted with very serious damage to the car and MH. The issue also occurs in other mfg vehicles.

Highly recommend you go to the Jeep forum where there are tons of posts and knowledge.

 

BTW If I recall correctly your 2017 Jeep Cherokee has the death wobble issue.

Thanks Bob

Yes, the 2017 Jeep has the death wobble issue.  I had the dealer install  Mopar 68321424 AB Flat Tow Kit wiring harness and there is an adequate charge line from the MH to maintain the battery.  There is a switch in the console with an red "arm missile" type cover that gets turned to on and then there is a fuse that has to be installed in a holder under the hood, all part of the procedure to prepare for towing.  I don't like the fact that the fuse holder is hard to see and I can hear the relay opening and closing while inserting the fuse.  Also I think the repeated installing and removing of the fuse will make for a loose connection.

My question is has anyone installed a switch to avoid the fuse removal and installation.  Obviously the fuse would remain in line with the switch

5 hours ago, jimc99999 said:

Do you need to remove the fuse when you're not flat towing? Seems like that's what the cabin switch would be used for. The flat tow kit is not necessary for my 2018, so I can't help you out directly. 

The JeepCherokeeClub forum is very active, and if you search for flat tow lots of results pop up. They even have a subforum dedicated to towing trailers and being flat towed.

Yes the switch is on and the fuse in to tow.  Fuse out and the switch off for normal operation.  They are controlling different circuits.  One is the steering I don't recall what the other is.

21 hours ago, Steven P said:

I tow a Gladiator and do not have any switches.  The switch you refer to, what does it do and is it stock or aftermarket?  I've heard of switches to turn off the battery to prevent drain while towing.  Maybe others can chime in too. 

It is part of Mopar 68321424 AB Flat Tow Kit.  It activates the electronic power steering to eliminate the death wobble issue that Jeep had.  I think they resolved the issue somewhere around 2019.  I don't know if it was ever an issue with the Gladiator.

16 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Read the Jeep’s manual.  There are two typical “switches”.  One is that you can add, assuming the Jeep’s towing instructions say “remove Fuse XX.  ALSO, give your VIN to a Jeep dealer.  For FREE, they will search for a Technical Service Bulletin ( a revIsion or an updated write up not in the manual at time of printing).  Read and follow that. The fuse removal is usually to prevent a backfeed from tapping into the Brake Light circuit.  MOST knowledgeable folks use two diodes (Roadmaster sells them) to prevent damage to the “computer monitored” tail light system

THE other kind is a “sturdy” battery disconnect switch on typically (NEGATIVE cable).  GM had a WORLD of issues when they redesigned the 2014 TRUCKS & the 2015 FULL size SUV (same chassis as the Pickup trucks).  They then required a high amperage switch, similar to the Chassis Cut Off switch on the MH.  MEGA confusion….

GM switched to “electric” power steering boost and if you sent a signal, I was told, to a brake light without using a blocking diode, that “woke up” the steering and it’s natural position was to STAY centered….not good.  But, the biggest worry…GM went BACK to an electric steering wheel lock.  That turned into a catastrophe.  Solution….unhook the Battery…and make sure the charging line was connected to the battery….when unhooked or turned off…

Hope that answers your question….if not, please post and repeat the question in a different way….

 

The fuse is part of the Mopar 68321424 AB Flat Tow Kit. The kit is to rectify the death wobble issue in the Cherokee  There is a switch in the cabin and a fuse under the hood.

I was curious what people had done to avoid removing and installing the fuse under the hood every time the hooked/unhooked.  I can easily add a switch under the hood but I thought there might be a more elegant solution.

On 7/24/2023 at 11:22 PM, Agpopp said:

Glad you got it fixed. I have a rear rad also, so i know what you were working with! What alternator did you go with for future reference? 

i got a Dixie 109-16128 Alt.LBP 12V/160A.

Thank you to Scotty for pointing out it is not a DUVAC alternator and rebuilding was not necessary.  The guy on the said you can not rebuild for what it costs to buy new.  By the time you pay for parts and shipping you will have spent more than a new one. 

Physically it is an exact match.

Thank you all for the help

Wasn't as bad as I thought.  A second person makes a big difference.

Hopefully it runs for another 78000

Hello

We have a 2017 Jeep Cherokee for a Toad.  There is a switch under the hood that is used as a switch.  This does not seem like the best idea (installing/removing the fuse will cause wear and is a bit of a pain)  

Has any one installed a switch under hood or in the cabin?

New alternator and belt on their way.  Thank you all

Now to figure the tensioner

Is there any advantage to a higher amperage altenator?

10 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Sorry for not considering that your coach has a rear radiator which makes the task of working on the engine 1000 times more difficult. All the more reason to hire someone to do the task.

My two diesel coaches have been side radiators. I have not and will not own a rear radiator coach.

I wont disagree with that. 

I got it out  Getting the wires off was as much work as getting the bolts out.  Not that hard once you get twisted around so you can get some leverage.  Had to remove the tail pipe from the muffler to make room for me.

11 hours ago, myrontruex said:

Just a quick tip. You have a different model than mine which is an SKQ. There was a hidden floor piece under the edge and going into the closet on my engine hatch cover. 

This opening was well hidden with carpet that had not been cut around the edges inside the closet. It took some time to find and I had to remove the closet doors and bottom railing of course. 

I changed my belt by myself and it was a struggle for sure moving the tensioner. Using a ratchet strap to pull the breaker bar was a real hazard but got the job done. 

Hmm.  I will have to look for the second hatch.

I am not looking forward to the belt

2 hours ago, klcdenver said:

You can go to Cummins Quick Serve and get your belt part number. I have a 2007 Diplomat with a 400ISL and the P/N is 3972263. That is a cummins number and can be crossed to other brands.

 

Thank you

2 hours ago, Jeff H said:

I didn't see it on the road so I thought it must have got thrown up into the engine bay but I dont see any parts there.  I will go back and have a look where It broke

I looks like there are 4 bolts 2 top and 2 bottom.  I can't get the top to budge. and there is not much room for a bigger ratchet/bar.

it looks like the way to do it is to take the bottom bolts out and then one person remove the top bolts from inside and someone below support it and then lower it.

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Unless you can find the exact size Serpentine belt that would fit without going around the alternator pulley, you are basically out of luck. It is easier to by pass the AC compressor as it generally has its own belt.

If you can't seen to get to the two mounting bolts I would look for a mobile diesel mechanic plus find yourself a good rebuild shop to rebuild your alternator to factory specs.

Did you keep what was left of the old belt as that may have had some numbers on it so you could purchase a new one?

I didn't see it on the road so I thought it must have got thrown up into the engine bay but I dont see any parts there.  I will go back and have a look where It broke

Last night, fortunately only about 2 miles from home the alternator light came on.  I stopped to un hook the towed about 1/8 of a mile from home and could smell something hot and figured something was seized and the belt was next.  As I just finished unhooking the belt broke.  I idled the last bit home and by the time I backed in I was up over 200deg.

When I checked the belt was gone.  The alternator will turn then stop and turn again with a bit of force.

So I know that it is better to rebuild then replace the alternator.  My questions are:

  1.  What is the best way to get it off?  There doesn't look to be much room to work and 

  2. What belt does it take?  

Finally I was lucky to be close to home when it happened otherwise I might have spent the night on the side of the road.  Is there a way to bypass the alternator with a belt so you can keep the fan and water pump working?

Thank you

Yes Tim it would be for the winter months.

Hello All

We are planning on going to the Albuquerque for the Ballon festival and eclipse in October.  My wife and sister in laws have made plans to hike in the Grand Canyon the first week of November.  Unfortunately, not being retired I can't hang around for 2 and a bit weeks.  So my options are:

   Drive back to Canada after the balloon festival and fly to Las Vegas or Phoenix

   Store the motor home in Phoenix fly home and then fly back to Phoenix and drive home after the Grand Canyon

   Store the motor home after the Grand Canyon possibly have some work done on it, fly home and return for it in the spring.

Any suggestions for short and long term storage and/or reliable RV repair facilities that would let the RV sit for the winter?

Not to stay on topic but,

My 2006 diplomat has a 2-3" vertical flange on the top of the slide.  What happens with that?

8 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

Hi Folks,

I will check the 'ride' secction, but will that give me the measurements for when the bags are down?

I have air suspension and 'manual' [hydraulic] jacks.

 

I'm just terrified of not being 'down' and stretching airbags when I raise up via jacks.

`

L

 

Not sure I know what you mean by "stretch" the air bags but if i raise my coach on the hydraulic jacks with out dumping the air first the ride height valve releases air in an attempt to lower the coach to ride height.

One thing to consider is the bay has to remain open to the outside in case of a leak so anything stored in the area would be exposed to road grime.  Unless you put a door on the opposite side and closed in the new space.

What are the other fuel types?