jacwjames

What about this

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fernco-2-in-x-2-in-x-2-41-in-dia-Coupling-PVC-Fitting/1000075335

So I looked at a brochure for the 2003 Dynasty.  The Chancellor model shows the kitchen sink is in a slide passenger side.

If that's the case you probably need to start from above and check to see if the piping is in some sort of a bind. 

The plumbing for the slide relies on a trolley system and flexible hose to connect to the piping going to the gray tank.  A lot of times the flexible hose will fail. 

If you can't find a problem with any of the above then you can proceed fixing the crack.  I've had good luck cutting slots in the coupling and then using a chisel to break the pieces off and then using sand paper to smooth and clean surface.  Most of the time you can put a elbow/coupling right back in place. 

With you limited access you might try using a small dremel with cut off wheel to cut the slots.  Just watch the depth of cut. 

I got lucky and found a Samsung RF18 on clearance at Lowes for $865 and decided to buy.  Actually used it in the house we were building until we got the standard size when the house was finished. 

I knew sooner or later the Norcold would fail and that I could use the Samsung there.  In 2018 the Norcold failed and I installed the Samsung in 2019.  Didn't get a lot of use until after Covid was over but since then have used it for ~2 years of use without a problem.  In 2021 I was SD, outside temps got to 105F but the Samsung dropped ice all day long.   Wife just fired it up to get ready to go on a trip, it made almost a full tray of ice in about 2 days.  Not bad and it is cold and holds temps well.  

I know there have been reports of the Samsung failing, this is more associated with full size residential units.  But there have several report in RV use.  

There is a set of wiring diagrams for a 2005 Dynasty in the downloads section. 

I quickly scrolled through it, I did not find anything specific to the brake or turn signal light for dash wiring but I did find the trailer brake control diagram on page 205 and on the rear tow harness wiring on page 208, which does include turn signals for steering column. 

If you do have a connector that would disable the tow plug you might try disconnecting and see if that has any impact to chassis turn & brake lights. 

Glad you migrated from the IRV2 forum.  I did do a search on the IRV2 forum and found this thread, look at post #40, seems he found a replacement gear but it had to be machined.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/need-help-finding-a-21-tooth-gear-for-my-bedroom-slide-out-544769-3.html

But go to the very last post and it gives a source of the gear in 2023    https://arcorpidaho.com/product/rv-slide-spur-gear-21-tooth

12 hours ago, tmw188 said:

 I have a Demco Stay N Play Duo sister to the Air Force One. My previous mh was a gasser and that’s what it was designed for but not designed for air brake systems especially coaches with exhaust brakes or Jake brakes because it works with a decelerometer which could be activated by an exhaust brake and burn up the brakes while decending a grade. I’ll  have my passenger confirm that. I was told originally by Etrailer that it would work on the air brake coach when I bought the Windsor some 3yrs ago.  I called Etrailer today with a trouble shooting question on something else since they installed it some 5 yrs ago. During the conversation the topic of the exhaust brake came up and that’s where we are now. I’ll know more hopefully tomorrow. I’ll probably need to switch the braking system. So that’s it. 

 

FWIW

The Demco Stay N Play Duo caught my eye,

I frequently visit the IRV2 site and recently saw a post on a 2023 Ford Maverick truck had ruined brakes do to the braking system.  I have looking for a newer Toad so I read the post.  Basically the system was not installed correctly and the mechanism that pulls the brake pedal failed but actually jammed the brake pedal and burnt the brakes up.

That got me interested so I did more searches and found one from Twinboat, a senior IRV2 poster who is pretty sharp.  https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/demco-stay-in-play-duo-install-on-a-2023-maverick-625402.html  He was having trouble with the brakes locking up.  He worked with the tech support to improvise a solution.   Seems odd to me that it takes customer to help solve a major problem with a product. 

There are other posts of people having similar problems. 

When I set up my Toad I installed the Brakemaster 9160 system.  Simple reason was that someone had already taped into the air system and installed the quick disconnect.  Made the install a no brainer and I've been very happy with the performance, easy to take the air cylinder in/out and it is proportional.  I did install the small indicator light on the dash of the coach so I know the brake is working. 

On my 2002 Windsor there is a wiring harness connector that ties the wiring for the lights and harness for the trailer connector.  On mine it was buried in the wiring at the back.  I only found it when I was trouble shooting the trailer plug in.  I never unplugged it so don't know what would happen if it became unplugged. 

The tensioner I bought was Cummins Belt Tensioner 3936213

It was NOS OEM for $50. 

There is no recommended guidance on when to change, some people do it whenever they change a belt. 

But there is some guidance on how to check and look for that would dictate when to change.

For me I was doing some work on the rig, had about 110K miles on it and I thought it was time although I could not find any problems with the old one.  So I changed and kept the old one as a spare.   When I change the belt I always keep the old one as a spare. 

Cummins Service_Repair Belt Tensioner.pdf

Back a couple months ago I had trouble getting into quickserve.  I had had an account since 2011, so it was frustrating. 

Finally resorted to calling the help line, once I got a rep who knew what was going on they explained the Cummins had transitioned to a new login system which required users to use an email address as the login.  He advised me to just go ahead and set up a new account, which I did.  He stayed on the line until I was successful. 

Haven't had another problem getting logged in. 

Look in your manual and it might show the belt(s) number.  Towards the back of my manual there is a list of parts including the belt.

Can you clean the old idler up, there is probably a part number on it that can be cross referenced.

That or create an account on the Cummins Quickerve site https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

Once you create an account you have to register your engine using the SN.  From there you will have access to all the parts for your engine.  That's what I did ~2 years ago when I replaced my idler pulley.  Got the number and did a general search.  Found a Cummins pulley for a good price, NOS. 

33 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

I'd inspect the front tires, like this:    https://www.rvtiresafety.net/2014/08/how-do-i-inspect-my-tires.html

the spin test could show certain issues with the axle also. I'd like to get a camera mounted under the RV to watch the tires as they roll, I suspect that would be useful, but only for the passenger!

I had something similar happen to a Class C I had.  We were on a trip and I stopped and inspected the passenger side tire thinking that is where the thumping was coming from, didn't find anything.  It started to get worse and turned into a vibration and I stopped several times and never could see anything.  At some point he front shock failed, yup ruptured.   So we found a shop that could replace the shock and when they took the tire off the problem was evident.  A cord broke in the center of the tread with a pronounced bulge in the tire.  I never saw it during the inspections, I must have stopped with the bulge on the bottom every time. 

Just by chance I had two other tires fail on the same trip, they were the Firestone tire during the time they had tread separation problems.  We actually had one tire where the tread was completely peeled off.  We were in the middle of S C headed toward Charleston and finally found a decent tire shop with 6 new tires and had them all replaced. 

One other possibility is look at your wheel well trim.  It is held in place with some screws.  We had one of the screws come out causing a thumping should driving down the road but it was a random thumping. 

https://www.rvglass.com/

I had my windshield replaced back in 2010, worked with insurance and they in turn used Duncan who then has a local shop do it. 

Sounds like you have front cap damage.  If it is minor fiberglass it can be fixed.  Major damage might require front cap replacement which are few and far between.  I've seen individuals who source one from salvage yard.  It is doable but to have a shop do it is $$$$, hence the reason the insurance company totaled. 

Good luck

That sucks.  How did you pay for the Turbo >> CC?  If so you can probably file a claim. 

Hopefully you can get it swapped pretty fast, good luck.

I suspect that what happen to you is a common problem which resulted in new harness being modified.   Others with a ~2002 era ISC 350

Like I posted earlier, I was having a CEL with code showing a problem with this sensor.  When I removed mine there was a lot of weight on the wiring harness.  Seemed like the whole harness, which had 3 different sensors bundled, was putting a strain on the sensor harness.

After pulling the sensor, cleaning, and reinstalling I had a heck of a time getting the two ends of the harness to snap back together.  Since then I got creative and used zip ties to pull the harness  up and take some of the weight off.

The new part # includes some sort of bracket to help support the weight.

41 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Sweet! I’ll show what’s in this kit. Glad it worked for you. 

I didn't have to buy a replacement. 

I took the sensor out, cleaned it and cleaned the wiring harness and that fixed my problem.  But I did do some searches on a replacement.  $460 is a ridiculous cost for the sensor. 

I believe this was the same sensor I pulled and cleaned when I was have an intermittent CEL last Oct.  On mine the part was replaced with a new PN which included a bracket that helped support the wiring harness.   I did check with a couple repair shops in KS but there wasn't one available.

When I first worked on mine the there was a lot of weight pulling on the wiring harness and I think it had caused my harness to loose connection.  I've since used some zip ties to help support the harness, which actually has three harnesses grouped together.  

I did check on line and there were some after market ones but not sure its worth the risk https://www.amazon.com/4025130-3408551-Pressure-Sensor-Cummins/dp/B0CN8ZXHC6

I had this application chart in my files, the shocks you list are the ones showing in the guide. 

Bilstein Application chart shocks.pdf

Is the coach drivable?

What are the problems you are trying to solve?

There should be some numbers stamped on the rim itself, do a search using the number and it will get you to the manufacturer. 

Back in 2009 we were planning on making a trip to AK and I decided I wanted to carry a mounted spare, never needed it but good insurance.  I found my rim was made by Accuride so I contacted the company with my part number.  Unfortunately the rim was obsolete, the changed the shape of the holes.  The rep gave me a substitute number that would work and the name of a vendor they recommended. 

I ended up buying the rim from Florida Shores Truck Center, cost $264 delivered.  My PN was 29644ANP but yours may be different. 

I found an older thread on IRV2 discussion this board, might be helpful, on post shows the purpose of the relays.  https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/slideout-control-module-board-581494.html

The drawing doesn't show any type of adjustments, just relays, fuse, and circuit breaker. 

1 hour ago, Mike H said:

Don't trust that dipstick as that was added by Monaco, NOT Allison.  Once you get your oil level correct you might want to put a scratch across it to sort of calibrate it against your shift pad

Long story short, I had a bad bad bad leak and did not know how much oil I had lost.  Rig would not shift out of 1st gear.  I had no idea how much oil I lost. 

Dipstick showed NO oil.  I added one gallon (yes 1 gallon) and check the dipstick with the engine idling for cold check.  Still nothing, so I added a 2nd gallon, still nothing on dipstick.  Finally added a 3rd gallon and the dipstick showed oil at correct level.  So I took it on about a 20 mile drive at highway speed, parked to let fluid settle down, and checked with shift pad  >>> OL OK.  

So desperate times call for desperate measures, dip stick was the only option I had. 

I was in UT at the time and called the nearest Cummins shop ~250 miles away and explained what happened, what I did.  Transmission wasn't heating up, shifted good.  They said I got lucky as the last 50 miles was pretty flat so the tranny didn't suck air, which would have toasted it.  I asked if they recommended a filter/oil change and they said the 3 gallons I added was half of a normal change so NO they didn't recommend an oil change.

Finished my trip, drove ~2500 mile home.  Took an oil sample and sent it in for analysis and it came back good.  I got lucky. 

You gotta do what you gotta do. 

When my transmission went into limp mode I was low on oil.  Not able to check the oil level with the shift pad I used the dipstick accessed by opening the bedroom hatch cover. 

Hopefully you got it fixed. 

Can you make out the number under the bar code, might be able to search using that.

I only have 2 slides, the larger connector is what I have on my controller. 

I wonder if the two smaller connectors are for the front slides.  You might try disconnecting and see which slides the affect.  If they are for the front slides you might consider swapping and see how the slide acts when you do that. 

I did a search on slide controllers available from the most common sites and never saw one that looks like yours. 

38 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I’ve been doing the Love’s app and the TA app with TSD for about a year now. Easy!  And I like the email receipts. 

There was a Love's right across the road from the Speedway I filled up at, the advertized price on the billboard was ~$0.30 higher then the Speedway but when I looked at the app the there was a ~$0.04/gal difference. 

Amazing how much difference in pricing.  In the past that is what always irked me, and by picking and choosing where I filled up could save $$ off the advertise prices of the larger truck stops.  That is why I was hesitant about setting up an account.

But money is money, and with the convenience of larger pull through's and faster pumps I, you might say, am hooked.