jacwjames

Did the installer have to remove couch to install flooring??  If so you'll have to remove couch to access the screws. 

Yikes

Are you a good DYIER

IMHO, I think to fix it right the slide will have to come out.  The damage to the floor on the inside has to be fixed right besides being able to get to the opening where the slide goes.  Also have to check to make sure the bolt did not deform the slide opening, possibly pulling it out so it's not curved, if not fixed the slide may not seal. 

I had several PM's with Todd while he was initially tried to figure out what happen as to the coach starting with the disconnect off.  From pictures it was obvious that the charging circuit had been changed. 

Not sure if the previous owner of his coach did the change due to the Lambert failing or he was a "Really Smart Guy" and wired in the BIRD to actually work with the isolation solenoid.  After reviewing all of this info my guess the later, he made the changes to provide a more robust charging system.  Seems like a great modification and cost ZERO $$$$

FWIW,

When I first tried to set mine using a tape measure it was an exercise in futility.  I finally took a piece of scrap wood and cut it to length so I could easily check and adjust with a quick go/ no go check with the stick.  In my case the rear is different then the front. 

Drive it around a little and then check again. 

I downloaded a document from Cummins Quickserve that lists all the sensors they install, it kind of shows locaiton but a little vague but Cummins uses sensors that have a wiring connector plug end.  On my ISC engine is show these two for engine, one is oil temp and one is coolant.

https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/cummins-temperature-sensor-3408345/01t4N0000048cJpQAI

 https://www.diamonddiesel.com/oil-coolant-fuel-temperature-sensor-for-dodge-cummins-engines-alliant-power-ap63605-oem-part-s-4954905-3865346-3096153-4088750-4088751-ap63605

Monaco usually installed sensor with a wire connector, attached is a parts listing for the coolant temp on my coach, in my case it is located on top of engine on the pulley end near the alternator.  This is the picture

You can create an account on Quickserve, once you have an account register your engine using the SN.  It is a great resource. 

There is also a Fault Code lookup, it will provide an overview explanation but then within the document there will be detailed troubleshooting guide. 

Since you are actually getting a code it is the Cummins sensor that is sensing the high temp, it sends signal to ECM.  Monaco sensors report to the gauges.

Control Module sensors 3408429 oil pressure sensor.pdf 1 Water Temp Sending Unit.pdf

On place to contact that might be able to help is Source Engineering  https://sourcerv.com/products

They know Monaco's, owners use to work the Monaco when still in business.

27 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

 

My AC control is located in the bedroom with Zone 1 being the rear bedroom AC area and Zone 2 being the front Living area AC. The data cable runs from the Thermostat to the rear AC first then is daisy-chained to the front AC where it stops. I never searched where the 12 VDC comes from but it has to be either from the front or rear AC wiring. There are a bunch of wires stuffed into that opening both in the front and rear.

 

I have a fuse for the front & rear AC's in the bedroom 12 volt fuse panel.    F19  15 amp fuse

What model transmission do you have? 

I found this post on IRV2 regarding TPS on a rig of your vintage (maybe). 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/throttle-position-sensor-527263.htmlts2973

Here's a link to trouble shooting manual, to a search for "Throttle Position Sensor" and it will show you where it is mentioned https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://yardtruck.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/MD3060_Troubleshooting_Manual.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjRjM2tuveFAxXa4skDHdoiAQ8QFnoECBoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw35SPf4_ie7W1nUJnK12QdE

38 minutes ago, Mark Underhill said:

Ok D1 then 21 then 23.  

Page 25 of the attachment I posted says 21 & 23  says      THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, FAILED HIGH

Here is a guide on how to check for codes for the different shifters.  It also shows the codes themselves. 

Allison all codes.pdf

43 minutes ago, Mark Underhill said:

Not sure how to check them.

On mine I press the Up & Down arrows twice and it will start displaying codes.  You'll see D1 and then the code, I think it will display 4 codes.

7 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I was asking for our 21 4-Runner.  It's a manual 4WD that I can disconnect the wheels from the transmission through the transfer case but the steering remains locked.  I'd be willing to disable the steering lock . . . if I could find it. 

- bob

Bob,

Your post about pulling a Toyota intrigued me so I spent some time searching.  From what I found Toyota does not recommend pulling any of their vehicles but plenty of post though of people pulling them as long as they are 4WD and have the transfer case that can be put in neutral.

As to the ability to remove the key on newer Toyota's, I did not find one post that explained how to do it.   One poster went through several attempts but none panned out.   The steering wheel lock is in the column and an electric solenoid with pin that locks the steering wheel. The software has a timed function that will lock the steering wheel after a period of time as an antitheft device.  I did some searches to see if it could be defeated in the PCM but didn't find any.  

Let me know if you find out if it can be done. 

The Ford I am interested in may not happen, another buyer is looking at it this weekend.  Wait and see I guess but after looking at the overall positive reviews and ease of pulling the F150 has moved up on my list of potential toads. 

From the picture it looks like there may be a part number on it but I can't read it.  Try doing a search for that PN. 

Or take the cap off and go to a truck shop, they may have them or can order. 

Check your manual, there should be a section on the pressure to charge the AC system. 

Not sure what the heater core sees for pressure.

Here are the instructions from the manual for a 2013 model year.

1. Turn the ignition to the on position. Do not start the engine.
2. Press and hold the brake pedal.
3. Shift the 4WD switch to 2H.
4. Shift the transmission to position N.
5. Rotate the 4WD switch from 2H to 4L and back to 2H five times
within seven seconds.
• If completed successfully, the information display shows
NEUTRAL TOW LEAVE IN N or NEUTRAL TOW ENABLED
LEAVE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL. This indicates that
your vehicle is safe to tow with all wheels on the ground.
• If you do not see the message in the display, you must perform
the procedure again from the beginning.
• You may hear an audible noise as the transfer case shifts into its
neutral position. This is normal.
6. Leave the transmission in position N and turn the ignition as far as it
will go toward the off position (it will not turn fully off when the
transmission is in position N. You must leave the key in the ignition
while towing. To lock and unlock your vehicle, use the keyless entry
keypad or extra set of keys.
7. Release the brake pedal

So key stays in ignition with it turned all the way off. 

10 minutes ago, StephenW said:

The truck has 69,000 miles on the odometer with maybe 3,000 miles being towed.  No major mechanical issues, just routine maintenance.  

The coach and truck looked so pretty you had to post twice👍

Can you post a picture of the part that is broke?

9 hours ago, StephenW said:

 

I like all the room in the back seat area for traveling with our German Shepards.

Good luck!

Ya, my wife's Anatolian Shepard would like the room😅

So you haven't had any major mechanical problems, how many miles on the truck?

Thanks

Thanks Mike

The truck is already set up for towing so I assume it can be towed which is a big advantage.  Price is in line with what I've seen especially with the towing package.  

Been doing some research, you can find both pro and con comments but overall it seems to have some positive reviews and comments. 

Asked a mechanic friend and he said overall pretty positive. 

Can you post a picture of the part that is split? 

Since you've posted this I've tried to search to find a replacement.  Veurinks pretty much sources parts from REVRVParts.com  They also show the part out of stock.

https://revrvparts.com/item-detail?itemId=39980&organizationId=9

The important part is the 6.375" Back set, but in the picture it looks like the bolt portion is an add on to get that distance.  I have not found a source so you may have to resort to trying and repair yours. 

Do you have a manual, there may be a way to recover the fault codes other then the scangauge. 

Do you have an Alladin display, have you check what is possible using that?

I've been looking for a different toad.  I found a 2013 Ford F 150 Platinum Ecoboost all ready set up for towing, looks like it is in really clean condition.  New tires and brakes,  86K miles on it. 

Anyone have any thoughts on this, especially the Ecoboost engine.  I heard there are problems with specific year, trying to figure out if this one would be reliable.  

I'd suggest checking your voltage at the outlet before you do anything.  This could help and/or hurt your cause.

I have a Progressive surge protector.  While I was building my house and plugged into the temp pole and saw low voltage fault, thought it might be an anomaly.  After got the house wiring done and hooked up permanently I noticed the same thing so started checking voltage and sure enough, it was low dropping to ~110 volts and sometimes less.  Not good.  Sent an email to the utility company and about 2 weeks later got a call from one of their engineers, he said they checked into it and sure enough, the taps at the transformer weren't adjusted correctly so they were supplying low voltage to the whole neighborhood.  He thanked me for reporting it.  Now our voltage is +120V-123V.  So it does make a difference. 

On some coaches they mounted the valve behind the white panel in the wet bay, other times they mounted it on the outside.  And or they could have used a standard water valve and just put a check valve in the line between the fitting you attach your water hose to and the valve. 

In my case the valve is mounted on the outside of the white panel, but to be able work on it I removed.  They put finger nuts on the water lines behind the panel so I could reach up behind and unscrew the two finger nuts.  I then was able to put the valve in a vise to hold it so I could replace the check valve, which on the left side of the valve.