jacwjames

There was a recent post that showed good prices from Walmart but not sure if it was a heat pump. 

I replaced both both my units in 2021, both two from PPL for $2700 including tax and shipping.  I just checked and most of the models are out of stock.  It would cost ~$4K at current prices.

Good luck

56 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

Yes. I am installed them when I replaced both my 20+ year old units. I still have a used set in case I need to replace one. 

When I replaced my cups and gaskets the old cups were really brittle.  I bought new cups "just in case" glad I did, I threw the old cups away. 

Can you see if there is any wiring etc run in that box or is it just a filler piece??  Could it be cut down a little??  Possibly removed and replaced with a wood covering and stained to match the door. 

Tractor supply has a large assortment of bolts with a lot sold by the lb for good prices

I needed two small 5/16 bolt, that they sell by the pound.  bought some other stuff and when I checked out the clerk tried to weigh the two small bolts, not enough weight so it registered $0.  👍

Back in 2015 my computer was hacked, ransom ware.  Called the bank VP at 11PM and she came into the office and isolated all my accounts.   From then I've been real cautious about the accounts.  

Not saying that someone couldn't access the other accounts but the bank VP>now the President has assured me that the individual accounts are safe  BUT  you never know. 

I've got automatic payment on a bunch of different things>>> electric, phones, internet.......   One more but with a different account won't hurt. 

But I have been thinking about opening another high yield account with a different back that offers better terms.

I need to go to my bank and see if I can create a different account.  If not may have to just associate with my CC and take the 1.9% hit  >>>>  but I'd still get a 1% rebate on general merchandise , not as good as 5% but better then nothing.  

And I know that both my CC's have good fraudulent claims polices, never had a problem getting a charge removed and my Sam's card will call and confirm a charge if it looks suspicious. 

23 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

Isn’t there a kit you can purchase with a gasket and drain cups to use the original drain line to the ground?

To work correctly there as to be drain tubing run from the inside down through the walls. 

My guess is that on certain models Monaco did install the drains but may not have used the AC's with the drain cups. 

If you do have the tubing installed you can install the drain cups.  The kit includes a gasket, the cups, cross over tubing, a T, and the hose clamps.  Not hard to install but to do it correctly you have to disconnect the wiring.  You could take a chance and cut the gasket and then glue it back together. 

~5 years ago did both of mine, then when I replaced the AC's I used the cups again. 

5 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I wish it was, but you ASSUME incorrectly… you do not get the 5% Sam’s discount as it’s billed as merchandise, not fuel.  Probably 80% of the time I find GassBuddy with  Sam’s card the cheapest (usually at a Sam’s) and TSD or Mud the other 20%.

When I travel and need to stop for fuel I'll look at my route ahead of time and use GasBuddy to find the lowest fuel price.  I agree that this is probably the best option.   Gasbuddy map is nationwide and pretty dependable.

BUT I'm looking at setting something for my wife, who doesn't have the discipline that I do. 

Either way I'll have to track the charges and try and catch discrepancies in either the CC or Debit card.   I know that I can set up alerts on the debit card for purchases over a certain amount. 

That is why I avoided TSD is they want access to bank account which in today's cyber world isn't appealing to me. 

With Mudflap I can use a CC which has always addressed any issues I had in the past regarding bogus charges.  

Debit accounts aren't as forgiving>>>> but with a 1.9% difference on several thousand in fuel cost could persuade me to change. 

Glad you got it fixed with a reasonably small amount of $$$.  

They've changed the quickserve website quite bit from when I first started using ~13 years ago.  Still have trouble finding things but it is a good resource. 

Not a bad idea. 

I'm just looking at Mudflap now and it says with Mudflap that you and use any credit card to pay, so if I'd put in Sam's card I assume I'd get the 5% discount besides what the I'd get using the app.

Is TSD the same?

Just setting up a Mudflap app and when I went to setup payment it says there is a 1.9% fee for a credit card. 

If I still get the 5% Sams card that would be the best option but how do I confirm??

15 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Stopped at a Buc.ees in December on way south and again 10 days ago as their price was better than any TSDs and I get 5% back. This one has 3 entrances and the last one is less crowded and the last island is all diesel and DEF if you need it.

Interesting pump and no you can’t get DEF by mistake as it has a separate button and hose behind a sliding window. Diesel hose and lever to turn on is on the right. 232 pumps is pretty amazing.

There is a Buckee's about 30 miles from us on I40 at the Sevierville exit, there price is $3.48, ~$0.57 cheaper then the two Pilot truck stops close to us. 

I'm currently looking at options include the TSD & Mudflap apps.  Anyone have any opinions on which one would work better for us??

Actually downloading the Mudflap app as we speak.  On my last trip I was filling up next to a big Tiffin and he said he uses Mudflap, said he thought it was better then TSD card.

My wife is getting ready to head out on extended trip going to dog shows and visiting friends.  So now I'm thinking I need to do something so she can try and get cheaper fuel.  She already knows to shop around using Gasbuddy but sometimes you've got to bite the bullet and go to a truck stop. 

When I bought my 2002 Windsor the previous owner had already replaced the water pump and removed the accumulator tank.  The pump was the Aquajet 55.  This pump failed in 2011 and I replaced it with the Aquajet 55 series.  Fast forward to last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece).  I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak.  Took a trip in June, all was good. 

Then in Oct I was leaving for another extended trip and when I turned on the water pump it wouldn't start,  Tapped the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver and the pump started BUT then it would shut off.  So I went ahead and replace the pressure switch but couldn't get it to adjust to stop the pump, >>> CALLED Remco and talk to a tech and he said I couldn't replace the switch, this only could be done at the factory on a test stand.  I know others post that it can be adjusted, I am just relaying what the tech told me. 

So I left on my trip and just turned the pump on/off at the switch until I got a chance to stop at RV store in Grand Junction.  I decided to just replace with the cheapest one I could find and ended up buying a Lippert https://www.lippert.com/12v-flow-max-water-pump-689052  It was an easy swap, my pump is connected with a looped water hose which helps reduce noise and vibration.  The pump is only rated at 3 GPM but does just as good as the Aquajet for half the price IMHO!!

So after looking at what would be involved with trying to replace the whole floor I decided to get creative.  The left side floor was pretty solid but the right side wasn't. 

So I decided to use a hole saw and drill a ~1.5" hole in the top laminate.   The wood was pretty much gone so I made a hook tool and pulled a bunch out using the tool and a vacuum.  I created a pretty good void.  I then took 4 old hacksaw blades and was able to shove them in the hole and position them in a crisscross pattern.  I had a large bottle that fit tightly in the hole, I cut the bottom off to make a funnel and then I drilled 6 small holes around the neck of the bottle and then screwed the bottle into floor, it was a tight fit.  The road side portion of the floor was sagging down so I measured and used a piece of 8X12" lumber and pushed back up and put a piece of wood to hold it up.  I then mixed up a generous amount of epoxy and slowly poured it into the funnel, it slowly flowed into the void.  the bottom of the wet bay actually bulged up a little but no leaks.  I let all the epoxy flow in and slowly unscrewed the funnel.  Epoxy stayed put.  I then took the hole portion of the floor that I cut out and taped it over the hole.  Then put a board across with some weight to level out the floor with the wood underneath still in place.

I looks like for the time being it fixed my problem.  A large portion of the floor that was punky is now solid.  The piece was held in with epoxy that had leveled out in the circle void from where I cut it out.  The hole is noticable but will not leak and the floor is pretty darn sold.  I'm satisfied with the repair.  If the left side gets softer I'll do the same thing on that side.  Heck of alot easier then trying to rip out the whole floor which extends back under the wall in front of the fresh water tank.

Have you had to tighten the bolt in the past?

Did you consider contacting Roadmaster, they may be interested in taking a look at it.  From the pictures I almost looks like some of the crack is older form the looks of the surface rust but I know surface rust can happen over night.

This is one of the reasons I force myself to do my own oil changes.   It gives me a chance to inspect the baseplate. 

I took a leap of faith and bought a Microair when I installed both AC's new.  I would have had to replace the 5 button anyway so the cost difference wasn't that bad.

The Micorair has some nice features and am very satisfied with the purchase.  

When boon docking in really cold weather I can just use the phone app to turn the furnace on.  

The MLACR latches when power is applied after a short delay.  When power source is removed it closes after a short delay.  But from I see/hear it doesn't continually cycle on and off.

I installed on in the Transit Van I outfitted for my wife, added an extra battery so she could run lights and the exhaust fan without having to worry about draining the chassis battery.  After I start the van and start driving after a very short period the MLACR latches and then unlatches after I shut the van off.  Works great. 

1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:

Recognizing that Lionel doesn't have the simple BigBoy setup, I would still like to ask: Can the Bluesea internal contacts be as easily cleaned as the BigBoy when the time comes that it gets a voltage drop across the unit? 

I searched the manual and the website and I cannot find any mention of a cleaning or repair method so my guess is no.

I installed 3/4" conduit across the top of the basement compartment and pulled a group of 5 wires back to front.  On my coach I have a plastic box on the firewall covering the brake pedal area, I just routed through there. 

Bill

What was your final solution for a repair.

Looks like I'm facing the same issue in my wet bay.  Mine looks like it is a laminated plastic/wood/plastic type flooring but it is pretty much gone.  Haven't tore it apart yet, going to evaluate this week.  My wife has a trip planned next month so if I dive into it have to get it done in the next month. 

My communication cable is daisy chained from the thermostat, first routed to the rear AC then to the front.  I have 2 connectors on the rear AC, one on the front. 

Did you clean all the connectors?

When I installed the Bluesea I was able to abandon my BIRD, Isolation Relay, and my Lambert.   

Basically killed 3 birds with one stone😁

Are the brackets on the rear for motorcycle lift/carrier?

Beautiful coach   Good Luck

X2 on the Bluesea ML-ARC install, I did mine ~3 years ago.  The relay itself was a pretty simple install, the switch required me to run wire from back to front. 

I also use a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system and can see my alternator voltage.

If I had an alternator failure I can start the generator and the Bluesea will tie house and chassis systems together.   Can also use it as a battery boost for starting.

Do you have power with generator running??