jacwjames

Not a bad idea. 

I'm just looking at Mudflap now and it says with Mudflap that you and use any credit card to pay, so if I'd put in Sam's card I assume I'd get the 5% discount besides what the I'd get using the app.

Is TSD the same?

Just setting up a Mudflap app and when I went to setup payment it says there is a 1.9% fee for a credit card. 

If I still get the 5% Sams card that would be the best option but how do I confirm??

15 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Stopped at a Buc.ees in December on way south and again 10 days ago as their price was better than any TSDs and I get 5% back. This one has 3 entrances and the last one is less crowded and the last island is all diesel and DEF if you need it.

Interesting pump and no you can’t get DEF by mistake as it has a separate button and hose behind a sliding window. Diesel hose and lever to turn on is on the right. 232 pumps is pretty amazing.

There is a Buckee's about 30 miles from us on I40 at the Sevierville exit, there price is $3.48, ~$0.57 cheaper then the two Pilot truck stops close to us. 

I'm currently looking at options include the TSD & Mudflap apps.  Anyone have any opinions on which one would work better for us??

Actually downloading the Mudflap app as we speak.  On my last trip I was filling up next to a big Tiffin and he said he uses Mudflap, said he thought it was better then TSD card.

My wife is getting ready to head out on extended trip going to dog shows and visiting friends.  So now I'm thinking I need to do something so she can try and get cheaper fuel.  She already knows to shop around using Gasbuddy but sometimes you've got to bite the bullet and go to a truck stop. 

When I bought my 2002 Windsor the previous owner had already replaced the water pump and removed the accumulator tank.  The pump was the Aquajet 55.  This pump failed in 2011 and I replaced it with the Aquajet 55 series.  Fast forward to last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece).  I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak.  Took a trip in June, all was good. 

Then in Oct I was leaving for another extended trip and when I turned on the water pump it wouldn't start,  Tapped the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver and the pump started BUT then it would shut off.  So I went ahead and replace the pressure switch but couldn't get it to adjust to stop the pump, >>> CALLED Remco and talk to a tech and he said I couldn't replace the switch, this only could be done at the factory on a test stand.  I know others post that it can be adjusted, I am just relaying what the tech told me. 

So I left on my trip and just turned the pump on/off at the switch until I got a chance to stop at RV store in Grand Junction.  I decided to just replace with the cheapest one I could find and ended up buying a Lippert https://www.lippert.com/12v-flow-max-water-pump-689052  It was an easy swap, my pump is connected with a looped water hose which helps reduce noise and vibration.  The pump is only rated at 3 GPM but does just as good as the Aquajet for half the price IMHO!!

So after looking at what would be involved with trying to replace the whole floor I decided to get creative.  The left side floor was pretty solid but the right side wasn't. 

So I decided to use a hole saw and drill a ~1.5" hole in the top laminate.   The wood was pretty much gone so I made a hook tool and pulled a bunch out using the tool and a vacuum.  I created a pretty good void.  I then took 4 old hacksaw blades and was able to shove them in the hole and position them in a crisscross pattern.  I had a large bottle that fit tightly in the hole, I cut the bottom off to make a funnel and then I drilled 6 small holes around the neck of the bottle and then screwed the bottle into floor, it was a tight fit.  The road side portion of the floor was sagging down so I measured and used a piece of 8X12" lumber and pushed back up and put a piece of wood to hold it up.  I then mixed up a generous amount of epoxy and slowly poured it into the funnel, it slowly flowed into the void.  the bottom of the wet bay actually bulged up a little but no leaks.  I let all the epoxy flow in and slowly unscrewed the funnel.  Epoxy stayed put.  I then took the hole portion of the floor that I cut out and taped it over the hole.  Then put a board across with some weight to level out the floor with the wood underneath still in place.

I looks like for the time being it fixed my problem.  A large portion of the floor that was punky is now solid.  The piece was held in with epoxy that had leveled out in the circle void from where I cut it out.  The hole is noticable but will not leak and the floor is pretty darn sold.  I'm satisfied with the repair.  If the left side gets softer I'll do the same thing on that side.  Heck of alot easier then trying to rip out the whole floor which extends back under the wall in front of the fresh water tank.

Have you had to tighten the bolt in the past?

Did you consider contacting Roadmaster, they may be interested in taking a look at it.  From the pictures I almost looks like some of the crack is older form the looks of the surface rust but I know surface rust can happen over night.

This is one of the reasons I force myself to do my own oil changes.   It gives me a chance to inspect the baseplate. 

I took a leap of faith and bought a Microair when I installed both AC's new.  I would have had to replace the 5 button anyway so the cost difference wasn't that bad.

The Micorair has some nice features and am very satisfied with the purchase.  

When boon docking in really cold weather I can just use the phone app to turn the furnace on.  

The MLACR latches when power is applied after a short delay.  When power source is removed it closes after a short delay.  But from I see/hear it doesn't continually cycle on and off.

I installed on in the Transit Van I outfitted for my wife, added an extra battery so she could run lights and the exhaust fan without having to worry about draining the chassis battery.  After I start the van and start driving after a very short period the MLACR latches and then unlatches after I shut the van off.  Works great. 

1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:

Recognizing that Lionel doesn't have the simple BigBoy setup, I would still like to ask: Can the Bluesea internal contacts be as easily cleaned as the BigBoy when the time comes that it gets a voltage drop across the unit? 

I searched the manual and the website and I cannot find any mention of a cleaning or repair method so my guess is no.

I installed 3/4" conduit across the top of the basement compartment and pulled a group of 5 wires back to front.  On my coach I have a plastic box on the firewall covering the brake pedal area, I just routed through there. 

Bill

What was your final solution for a repair.

Looks like I'm facing the same issue in my wet bay.  Mine looks like it is a laminated plastic/wood/plastic type flooring but it is pretty much gone.  Haven't tore it apart yet, going to evaluate this week.  My wife has a trip planned next month so if I dive into it have to get it done in the next month. 

My communication cable is daisy chained from the thermostat, first routed to the rear AC then to the front.  I have 2 connectors on the rear AC, one on the front. 

Did you clean all the connectors?

When I installed the Bluesea I was able to abandon my BIRD, Isolation Relay, and my Lambert.   

Basically killed 3 birds with one stone😁

Are the brackets on the rear for motorcycle lift/carrier?

Beautiful coach   Good Luck

X2 on the Bluesea ML-ARC install, I did mine ~3 years ago.  The relay itself was a pretty simple install, the switch required me to run wire from back to front. 

I also use a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system and can see my alternator voltage.

If I had an alternator failure I can start the generator and the Bluesea will tie house and chassis systems together.   Can also use it as a battery boost for starting.

Do you have power with generator running??

Thanks you and your wife for your service

I would suggest starting to build a database of info about your coach.  If you have the original binder/box of most of the components that's a good start, you may have a copy of the build sheet which has a list of most of the components with make/model/SN.  If you do use this to start building your file system.  Take advantage of the downland section on this site, lots of info there.

If you have questions feel free to ask but I'd start a new thread if you can't find the info, it a lot of cases it may already be addressed in another post so I'd suggest doing a search first. 

Good luck

Can you post a part number for the Arens actuator??  Where is this located??

You might consider buying a Fox and Hound wire tracer.  You should be able to follow the direction of the wire.  Don't buy a cheap one, mine works but its not the best, I needed it in a hurry so bought one from Harbor Freight.  Amazon has a good selection  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fox+and+hound&crid=3ONDQVJ4NGNV8&sprefix=fox+and+houn%2Caps%2C684&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

I ended up having dead short in my rear bedroom circuit that also fed the bathroom and basement.  The wires from the breaker box went into the ceiling.  I was able to trace the wire in the ceiling back to the rear outside wall in the engine compartment when then went into the bedroom under the bed and to the outlets next to the bed.  Somewhere between the breaker box and there I had a short.  I as able rearrange the wiring, abandoned the portion in the ceiling and then back toward the rest of the circuit.  It was a real head scratcher, both finding the locaiton of the short but figuring out a solution.  Couldn't have done it without the wire tracer. 

John,

I hadn't had time to get any pictures but my pocket door track is mounted the same.   Monaco put a trim piece on either side to dress up the ceiling, this is removeable to be able to access the door to adjust and remove if necessary.   Keep that in mine as you are installing yours!!!

The original doors are very well made and solid wood, in my case Walnut.  One option would have been to contact a cabinet shop and had them duplicate with the species of wood work you have but it would have been expensive.  And it still would have been difficult to match the patina of the wood as it aged.  Lumber prices have gone crazy.  So the $400 is probably a decent price to get something that matches. 

Here is a guide/manual

You need to check how the Inverter is set up based on you battery type, size and number for total amp hours available. 

Dr4Film shared how he set up his AGS with me, this might help you.  I also included an inverter manual but this is for a 2000 watt inverter, yours might be different. 

RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming

·       Search Sense              =     Defeat                                     

·       LBCO                          =     ON                                           

·       Battery Capacity        =     500 amp                                  

·       Battery Type              =     Liquid Lead Acid                      

·       Charge Rate                =     80%                                         

·       Set Shore Power         =     30 amps                                  

·       External Shunt            =     None                                       

·       Fuel gauge Cutout      =     11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC                 

·       Generator Start          =     12.0 or 12.2 VDC                            

·       Generator Stop           =     Auto Float                               

·       Generator Quiet Time =     23:59 & 00:01

You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start

RC7_RC-GS_Owners_Manual(975-0210-01-01_Rev-A).pdf RVSeries_2012-2512-3012-GS_Trace Owners_Manual(975-0209-01-01_Rev-A).pdf

You can buy this but it was the original, I just removed it and cleaned up good before putting it back in after I did the stairwell.

I used LVP Pergo from Lowes when I did the floor.  I didn't really use anything to attach it to the sides, I fit it in like a zigsaw puzzle starting at the bottom.  There was enough space to slide it in next to the door trim.  Fit each side first and then a snug fit with the toe kick using construction adhesive it to hold it in place.  Then the edge trim at the top. 

Overall it turned out pretty good but took time to do it. 

I'm using a Dell with Windows 10,    I CAN NOT down load/open this type of image.

Don,

Do you have a part number for slip ring,  

I've been doing some searching and in most cases they call them Collector rings. 

I've been looking for replacement also and found this on Ebay BUT have not tried it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304774092871

Hopefully someone can post a real solution

I have pocket doors in that location, one on both sides that meet in the middle.  I assume the width of the door your purchased will span the width but not be protruding when open. 

In my case it looks like they mounted a piece of wood that the track attaches to.  You might be able to take advantage of the cabinet on one side and then use some sort of anchor on the other side so you don't have rely solely on the ceiling structure. 

My door uses a slider latch on the bottom that holds the door closed while traveling.  Look at Lowes or Home Depot to see what they have available. 

Good luck, these types of modifications can be tricky.