jacwjames

Tom Todd did do some wire tracing and I talked to him on the phone. I believe he does have a wire running from the ignition to the chassis stud of the solenoid relay so he is getting charging as you describe. The boost relay is a 200 amp continuous duty type https://www.amazon.com/RODGERS-586-902-CONTACTOR-SPST-NO-BRACKET/dp/B00DE3HY4K/ref=sr_1_3?crid=MLIDCRICHWIH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZKCXl5KwbpH1c0a884k2I0zi0PqvQY564KBnJJk5BuDNT_FbaqAJ9XeQnZr1On-8G4lFGI4Te2TUIzAoA8XkmTPe3suldDlg2qtmpiiX_vRTmBqd_No7lTj8W5lkpKdTW4i34wlvUyuoa-8unje3nLv8jfRXAbcebt4pIBgUPtiQLTVRa8HTDhKG9LXd1vCT9PkAollaF0Q8mda0VGhqQFfMqk8hbDR7_sN7q5nWwew.oUdshW_3Qb5WFqbeOZhF5FtSRNBY-dc60xry3Tm4MOA&dib_tag=se&keywords=586-902&qid=1714438829&sprefix=586-902%2Caps%2C305&sr=8-3

I tried to look at mine, I've installed the Bluesea but when I removed the wires I tried to label them. Only thing I see that is a little concerning is the white wire attached to the bottom lug of the Lambert, does it go to the BIRD coach battery tab?? Ya, had a brain fart. Still doesn't make sense why the boost solenoid is on all the time.

The plot thickens. Some one has abandoned the original house/coach charging system. The Lambert 415 maintainer is what originally kept the chassis batteries charged while on shore power and the house batteries charge via alternator while driving. The disconnected the generator sense wire so the BIRD wouldn't prevent charging while generator was running. Can you trace the white wire that is connected to the Lambert 415 and the black wire, where do these go. My guess is that the wiring changes closes the isolation solenoid/relay and connect both battery banks together all the time. That is why you were able to start the rig with the chassis disconnect off. Cart before the horse, not sure if the Lambert went bad or the BIRD. Either way easiest solution to get the charging system working back close to the way it was is to install a Bluesea. I started questioning my Lambert 415, it started to click on/off faster/slower, which had never done before. I installed a Bluesea and abandoned the Lambert, BIRD, and Isolation Solenoid/relay ~3 years ago.

The other issue is that my rig has only a 200 amp continuous duty latching solenoid. This is used as a battery boost function but not to carry the full load of starting. Won't take many times before this fails. The primary purpose of this solenoid is maintaining batteries voltage while driving or on shore power, not to carry lots of amps. Still waiting on info from Todd, he texted me this AM saying he was tied up in the morning.

When I first considered flooring I picked up a bunch of samples from Lowes and showed them to my wife. The firsts ones she discarded were the ones that were heavily textured. She travels with dogs (lots of dogs) and the texturing would hold dirt and water after walking dogs during a rain. The next thing was the joints. Some of the samples had a groove/space at the joint, another place for dirt. So this eliminated a large number of samples Lowes had one style that was smooth with no joint and provided a natural look. I laid this in 2021 and it seems to be holding up pretty good but time will tell. I did not use any type of adhesive, it is a floating floor. I know the recommendation is to allow for ~1/4 expansion joint around the perimeter but I made it tight side to side. This is only a ~8' distance so I feel the expansion is minimal and having a tight fit keeps it positioned. I did allow a space between the tile and the laminate front to back, which was covered by the transition piece.

It depends Cummins had a TSB where they would change out a proportional sender to a low pressure type. I've heard different reasons/theories for this, one of which they were getting lots of complaints of low oil pressure so the opted to go with a switch type sender. So if you sender goes out and you try and find a replacement using the Cummins PN the one that will come up is the switch but it include a different wiring harness and require a reprograming of the ECM If you go this route and monitor your engine it will show 55psi or "0". For me I want to see the correct oil pressure TSB Oil Pressure Switch Installation.pdf

So, I also own a 2002 Windsor so should be pretty close to what Todd has (snowflakes). He states the disconnect was off but was able to start the coach at which point he saw the high voltage on chassis batteries. I'm so confused🤬 With the disconnect off the coach should not have started UNLESS the Isolation Solenoid is closed which would combine both battery banks, that's the only way to get voltage to the starter, otherwise the two systems are separate. I know one time my disconnect failed and I had NOTHING at the dash and the rig would not start, basically the same as turning the disconnect off. Only way to get power to start is to go through the isolation solenoid which closes when you press the boost switch. I've sent Todd a PM to have him check some things. Hopefully he'll report back tomorrow.

Bought Pergo LVP from Lowes along with trim pieces. The stocked the tile to floor trim but no the corner molding for stairs, slide, and engine hatch edges, had to order and it was $$$$. But it looks good and the color match is pretty good. Time will tell how long the transition pieces last, it is a 2 piece system. Attach one piece to the floor and then snap lock the other in place. I broke several pieces as hard to get it to snap and lock. Learned that the piece you attach to the floor has to be very straight. and once the top piece is snapped in place almost impossible to get off without breaking.

On my 8.3 ISC the oil sending unit behind/above the starter sends a signal to the ECM. It is a Cummins part #

I use a Silverleaf to monitor the engine and transmission. Seldom look at the dash gauges. Not sure on you engine as to where the oil pressure sending unit is, my guess is the drivers side. Monaco installed separate oil pressure and temp sending units. https://www.jegs.com/i/VDO/918/360-023/10002/-1?srsltid=AfmBOorbCQ5a1tL2oezrFAo6YjqE9YSsDko7Y6pRv3UBr3V2Ch3CAobyYBs But your best bet is to find yours and get a part number off of it.

Better to put the relay closer to the lights themselves. Use the existing headlight wire as the trigger wire and then run a new heavier gauge power wire tapping into the power at the most convenience point, put an in line fuse on the new wire. I did something different, the lower fog lights on my rig saw their better days. So I replaced with LED running lights. I bypassed the DRL relay and can control the new lights with the switch on the dash. I can use these without my other lights and do a better job of lighting the roadway. I aimed them toward the passenger side road as not to upset oncoming drivers. Prior to doing this I had a hard time driving at night. Last trip it was much better.

You might be able to narrow down the problem by unplugging one of the headlights at a time Also, my coach had a DLR (day light running) light relay in the front drivers side run bay, you might try unplugging that if you have one.

If you can't find any cracks it might be worthwhile to take the manifold to a machine shop and have it trued up and surfaces cleaned up, several look pretty rough. That way it would mate to the block better.

Each Monaco owner should check their air intake design. There are many differences. In my case I had a louvered air intake on the rear passenger side slightly higher then the tail lights. This goes into a large box where the water can drop out. A ~6-7" accordion hose is attached to the box and then the filter housing. I have never had a problem with water BUT I did have a problem with a bird building a nest in the air filter, there is not screen on the intake🤬

In the past I would look for general area to get fuel, using GasBuddy.com I would find areas of lower prices and then as I'm driving decide which station has the easiest access and best price. When I'm driving to get from point A to point B I'll usually find a place to boon dock. +50% of the time it will be a Walmart or Sam's and they usually have good prices. On my last trip I stopped in Sulphur Springs TX which had a fuel station. I didn't even try to fill up when I pulled in, way too crowded. But in the AM I was up before the station opened and waited. As soon as I saw people fueling I took advantage of the access and was able to easily get in and fuel. Would not have been able to do that during rush hour. So having the flexibility of using either TSD or Mudflap will be nice and overall the prices look pretty good but I did notice that some station have as little as a $0.05 discount, needless to say my Sam's CC will be the best option.

Where did you buy it from???

FYI, I went on line last week and signed up for both the Mudflap and TSD cards. Part of TSD card requires you to link it to a bank account so that they can test auto pay function. This took several days as they first do a deposit of two amounts, in my case $0.01 & $0.28. Then they request that you acknowledge you recieved, another couple days. Then they do a $0.29 withdrawal. That gets you to the point where you can actually complete the application and they sent me a card. I received it today and had to send an email request for it to be activated. Once activated they assign it to the app, took a couple tries to get this done. Finally shut off the phone and turned it back on it was on the app. All was pretty seamless. I'll take the coach for a drive next week and fill up at the nearest station about 20 miles away. Price at Sam's today was $3.45 so $3.27 with 5% card rebate. Price at $3.67 posted, $3.23 with TSD plus fees. Pretty close but could be a benefit depending on access and how far off the interstate either the Sam's or truck stop is and the speed of the fueling.

What is your turbo pressure showing, is it running within spec for are you seeing a drop at high load?

My wife has a dog show friend, who fell last week and broke a hip, no spouse and kids don't care and are 1000 miles away. She's in a bind both from the injury but no money and high insurance deductible. Not a good situation but it happens. My wife will go and get most of the show dogs she has and take care of them while she is recovering. Current estimate is that a married couple should have $430K in savings just to take care of medical expenses in retirement. Needless to say a lot of people don't have that. The owner of the RV acquired what once was a very nice coach. My guess is that he did the best he could to take care of it, but at some point you have to let it go. Again, crap happens and I'm in no position to judge.

It is sad I'm not going to put anyone down, at the end of the video the driver explains that the owner ended up having to go into hospice and forfeited the truck to the city so it could be hauled off and scrapped, however, during the time it was empty someone moved into it. My guess is that a situation like this happens all the time, people fall into hard times and can't recover. Hell that may be me one day, so I'm not going to second guess the circumstances.

What are you looking for, I have these in my flies. You can buy the ends for the drag link, one of them is crimped in place but it can be replaced by grinding out he crimp area and then unscrewing. Need to measure length and also the angle location of both ends to make sure it lines back up when installing. Last year I replaced one of the boots that goes on the tie rod ends. You can buy these at NAPA or on line source. https://www.ebay.com/itm/145428319131?itmmeta=01HWDDB5QYNSZPVTME5Z9D65WR&hash=item21dc340b9b:g:~WcAAOSwzlRlTcEZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwMEIDoco6mnziMtAR7Qdtb4fhKuH%2FTkASHFVPtbFaP%2BpbQ%2FUD2AiXxhtsityFeef1ecp0JGKdS3PlvbBjwXo7dz3C2Le4QfWVguzNeCtKSl5UV1LxIYWY4M7RGxizLsa%2FoWsh4y6oeuoc1Do%2F5tPfjgvvPr9u4kQlR%2BFL%2F6WBPZmpHdAB4Yy8QdDy02nEOCXNrrCUHwlCcB03zfGviltGHAjqREuHoly4r2NEjn0ukMuTo5WI5JfcUN%2BXpUeq6Cptw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4DcrK3jYw Tie Rod & Drag Link _ Draglink Ends - H_D Truck TWD HES431R _ Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts.pdf

First thing you need to do is find the part number for your rigs air bags. Then do a general search. I bought a couple Conitech air bags to carry a couple years ago from Truckandtrailer.parts paid $312 delivered.

Can you use a Fox & Hound and trace/follow the wire from the relay and maybe get a general direction. I checked the air schematic for a 96-99 Monaco and it shows the tubing going to the air horn as Blue so you may try and trace either a yellow or blue 1/4" tubing to the front.

Try messaging or calling Visione RV in KY. https://secure12.makatary.com/cgi-bin/en.visonerv.com/e-mailmessageform.pl? Give them as much info as possible about what it is, where it is located, Make/model/year of rig. When I was there last Oct I asked the salesman if they list everything on the website, he said no that they just had too much to list. But advised me to contact them and they would look.

Might try taking it off and see if there are any part numbers or markings.