jacwjames

Back in 2012 the chassis battery died while my wife was driving from E TN to northern Michigan. She was able to use the battery boost to start the coach and continued north. I changed the chassis battery when she to to where I was. You should be able to start your coach with the boost button.

Yes but you will have to add a 12 volt power source. Attached is the wires that go to my plug, which is what is shown in you photo. When you open the PDF it will be blurry, hit CTRL5 and it will clear up. Also attached is a diagram for the 7 pin plug, You will have to figure out which wires are for the different funcitions. FWIW, if you follow the wires up into the wiring loom you will probably find a male/female connector buried in the wires. You might be better off starting there and eliminate the other connectors. 2002_Windsor_wiring_diagrams Tow Plug.pdf Trailer Wiring Diagrams.docx

I have 3 fuse holders in my rear passenger side electrical bay, several fuses in each holder. Most of the fuses are for the engine, one is for the transmission. If you have fuses like this I'd check, There have been several recent posts of a no start when one of the fuses was blown. In the same bay there is also a IGN relay. I also had a no start situation, I had moved the rig to the street in front of the house to connect the toad, went to start and nothing. But I had the cat eyes on the allison display. Ended up being the TCM and had to have ti replaced. Some point later I opened the old one and had burnt circuit board,

This happen to me once. First thing I checked was the chassis battery disconnect, it was not passing voltage. Removed it and bolted both cables together to get the rig started. Ordered a new disconnect and installed for the final fix.

When was the last time you lubricated the gears/rollers/bearing surfaces.

Not sure, you might one of the clip together type https://www.lowes.com/pd/Twist-and-Seal-0-5-ft-Plastic-Cord-Organizer/1000132801 But if water gets trapped in it you may have more problems. The OEM connector is pretty water tight, not sure if you could do any better.

Ya, I know when I changed my surge tank I did remove the probe and even with the tank out it was difficult to remove. The circuit can still be tested by running a ground wire to where the probe wire is connected.

Here's a link to a manual I had in my files, it is for an 2005 model year, not sure if yours is different https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/transmissions/3000_4000_operators.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiVkLCiyZeFAxUNfjABHUtuB_YQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2NZpxZ305ooaNKlC1xC-wO There is a picture of the communication cable, drivers side.

Not sure what low coolant sensor you have. My 2002 had a long probe that went down into the tank, a rubber grommet held it in place. This type of probe was known to get dirty and would throw a low coolant light. The solution was to remove the probe and clean with a scotts bright pad. The probes contact with the coolant completed the ground circuit, you can test by cleaning and touching it to metal. My original tank developed a leak and I changed, the new coolant sensor screwed into the bottom, one wire connection to the sensor but it worked the same, coolant touching the sensor completed the ground.

I'd check the plug, take it apart and inspect for moisture or signs of corrosion. Use some electric cleaner on both sides and maybe a little dielectric grease the put it back together making sure it's tight.

You can test by jumping the low pressure switch to see if the clutch engages. If it does it probably means you have low freon. When I first bout my coach in 2008 the AC wasn't working, clutch not engaging so I added one can of freon and it took off. That lasted until ~2020 and it stopped working again. Bought a set of gauges and my neighbor who does HVAC work sold me a large bottle of the 134-A refrigerant and charged my system. Since I didn't open up my system I didn't bother with pulling a vacuum etc. Had to add a little more this year. If it gets much worse I'll have to put in some dye and look for the leak but adding a little refrigerant every 3-4 years will work for now. There is a table in my manual that shows pressure based on ambient temp.

Back several years ago Dr4film posted what he used for his Trace inverter settings, I copied and saved them. RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming · Search Sense = Defeat · LBCO = ON · Battery Capacity = 500 amp · Battery Type = Liquid Lead Acid · Charge Rate = 80% · Set Shore Power = 30 amps · External Shunt = None · Fuel gauge Cutout = 11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC · Generator Start = 12.0 or 12.2 VDC · Generator Stop = Auto Float · Generator Quiet Time = 23:59 & 00:01 You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start

Look where the filter is, remove filter and see if you can see the tubing that the AC drain cups attach to. This may give you an idea where the drain is. If there is tubing I'd try to make sure it is not stopped up. Every couple of years I use compressed air to purge mine out both going up into the cups and down into the tubing.

Had to replace motor and gear box. With slide in you don't need any support. The gearbox itself is a sealed unit, but it wouldn't hurt to open it up and check everything. I use a silicone spray on my gears and track, the silicone won't gather dirt as easy. Check to make sure the slide isn't hitting or dragging. Can't remember if there are pillow block type bearings or not, if there are I'd lube them also and any other moving parts.

How old are the AC units? What kind of Furnace do you have?

How long does it take to do a wash? How much water for one load? How are you going to dry the cloths?

Bubble test is basically using a spray bottle with soapy water, spray all the connections and watch for bubbles. Chances are you'll find some. A leak can occur over night. FWIW, in 2021 I checked my system before a long trip, no leaks and the air system would stay up for a week. on the second day of my trip I noticed that my low air alarm went off when I turn the key. ODD, hadn't done that before. Next day did the same thing so I started monitoring and loss of air got progressively worse. Finally took a spray bottle of soapy water and started checking and found that each of the PPV's were leaking. PPV= Pressure Protection Valve, I had four of them. I ended up cutting my trip short to repair. Here's a fairly long thread on the repair, I went through the whole system.

There is a tag on the dryer, you should be able to confirm make/model. Just get one based on the numbers, they make after market but for this I'd stick with OEM. Take lots of pictures, tag the hoses. If a hose looks iffy I'd take the time to change.

I could not find a 2007 wiring diagram but I found a 2006 in the downloads sections. There is a page showing the rear run bay. There are two relays that have an ignition control wire. Suggest downloading the wiring diagram and confirm it matches what you have, then you should be able tap into on of the wires. Pictures would help.

Can you post a picture of you rear electrical bay?

FWIW My ice maker water line would develop a pin hole leak in it where it came up and bent over to go to the water valve, this happen every other year it seemed. I ended up getting a short steel braided hose and splicing that in where the bend would be. That pretty much solved the problem. My coach has a water filter under the kitchen sink, there is a small T handle valve where the small ice maker line is attached. This provides filtered water to the icemaker, makes clear ice cubes> can't hardly see them in my whiskey glass.

I remembered a post talking about an "Annunciator" which is what alarms for low air Not sure what is on earlier model coaches. Here's a post from IRV2 with a different type of annunciator https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacement-anunciator-38060867-a-574645.html Might be a hard part to find though

After I removed the plug I started the generator and then ran both AC's and another load to get about 40 amps, let it run for 40 minutes. I did an oil change and belt, checked the air filter and it was OK so I should be good to go.

So I got the belt changed, not a big deal since my generator is on a slide and I can get to it pretty easy, had to take the top and rear panel off to be able to remove the pulley to change the belt. A couple hours and I was done. The old belt was still in decent shape, will keep it for a spare. It did have some cracking in the cogged rubber portion but the rest looked pretty good. This AM I decided to clean the spark arrestor on the generator. 11/16" socket and a long extension. When I removed the plug a decent amount of soot dropped out but when I started the generator a bunch more blew out, made a pretty big mess on my garage floor but used a blower to send it out the large door. It had been a while since the last time I did that so I need to make sure to do it more often.

Here is an older post