jacwjames

I just got done checking with Farmers insurance for House, Car, and RV, Each was higher then what I pay with Auto Owners. RV quote was about double. I had been paying $260 but new quote went up to $340, but still cheaper.

Can you get a breaker bar in the right position to get a floor jack under it. If that doesn't break it loose you'll have to get some heat. Last year I was helping my brother repair a Jet ski, the owner had run it across the top of a sand/rock bar and sucked rocks into the impeller. Had to replace the impeller and the housing it mated to, but we couldn't break the nut loose that held the impeller on. He brought out a small torch set and was able to heat the nut red hot and I was able to use a long pipe and wrench to finally break it loose but took all the force I could muster.

I was having trouble logging into the Cummins Quickserve site, finally resorted to calling 1-800-Cummins and talked to rep. He said about a month ago Cummins did a software update. The login page now requires an email type login so I had to go through the process of creating a whole new account, finally got that done. So I tried to do a Fault Code lookup/search Like Frank said, the 94-42 is not a valid fault code. Can you check the diagnostic page again on your Silverleaf to confirm Back last Oct as I was heading west my check engine line flashed, did not stay on. But the further I drove the more it flashed and at some point the light would come on and engine would derate. Not Good. I had a 94-2 fault code which has to do with the fuel pressure circuit being erratic. I down loaded the trouble shooing info from Quickserve and followed the steps. I ultimately removed the pressure sensor from the top of the CAPS pump, inspected the wiring, cleaned it, and put it back making sure the wiring harness was tight. As an observation the wires going to the harness were pretty tight. Put it all back together and that did it, finished my trip, probably driving another +2500 miles. I did check on a new sensor while I was in Kansas but none to be found, ~$400. I did look up the pressure sensor part, there was a new part, which consisted of a bracket to help support the wiring harness. So I suspect the problem was the snap lock harness was working loose!. So I have plans to add some zip ties to take some of the weight off the wiring, still have to do that and since my wife is planning a trip in ~6 weeks I better get on it. Attached is the info I had on the 94-2 fault code. 94-2_Fuel Press Sensor Circuit.pdf

My rig uses a Kysor Low Coolant alarm system. So only one wire. You should check you wiring diagram, it may be different.

You should be able to bypass (or trick) the coolant sensor into thinking there is coolant there to eliminate that as the cause. In my case the sensor uses the coolant as a grounding mechanism, one wire sensor. So I could just simply add a ground to the wire from the sensor and it would run the light off. Do you know the codes you are getting for the Turbo. If you have the codes you can get information from Cummins specific to your engine for troubleshooting. Either way continue running with a warning light on isn't the optimal thing to do.

Last Oct heading west I started getting an intermittent warning light that got progressively worse and at one point the engine would derate. Check my Silverleaf diagnostics and it showed a 94-2 code which had to do with the fuel pressure sensor. Got the troubleshooting info from Quickserve and followed the steps which included removing the pressure sensor from the CAPS pump. Did this while parked in a Walmart parking lot somewhere in Kansas. Pulled the sensor, checked the wiring harness and cleaned the sensor put all back together and all good the rest of the trip. I had called a couple truck shops to try and get a new sensor but none were available. But the sensor part number was superceded to a new PN which also included a support to take weight off sensor wiring harness. I suspect me taking the sensor out and disconnecting and then reconnecting reseated the wiring harness. Long story short>>> you need the fault codes to have any chance at fixing the problem.

Have you checked for fault codes???

So I tried to find the PN for the step motor/gear box that I replaced but couldn't find it. But I think this is what I bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/156031447198?itmmeta=01HRSH5P1A9YZQRSBFTDKEGMS8&hash=item245432f09e:g:bawAAOSwg2VkWT~1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8PqqxrvNSi9vmeOIQy4r%2BkXl54MlSiuDDh7pQ1uF9YVCd62qru1N7U%2FbZCoYNgID6L%2FgA2HJUXMNbxLN7C%2ByOxCAjHzxwcJGxIZoJS4lh1%2F5xym33gKsLhrK1KBKkf8rKXWP0YWTPedmGSHsFt8cByjDmA6BxBz%2BsRWhfRj3CqpSgY01xhJ2WA8UPoEi5OBYd8znELiswI%2BfinKsqQSbmDKG8W%2Fj9OPH%2F4msstTWUgAAysK6FctX%2BNJ%2B6MnQmKwlk%2FMmYa%2FuR0S0Bj4QeO%2BU1cg31lkHibwJmhlT2kdlcik7z9tpkjZdlmS1vi4hcKfvOw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-zglrHGYw That was 2011, price was $195, it's double that now. There are aftermarkets availabe a lot cheaper. https://www.ebay.com/itm/145031860768?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261916%26meid%3D351026e5cd4541838fdcde531ba56628%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D156031447198%26itm%3D145031860768%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p4429486.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A145031860768351026e5cd4541838fdcde531ba56628|enc%3AAQAIAAABgHD%2FO%2BVoFoPPIoZ2g0kOZxWd85mWuIHekSp3qag7zFfwObZeQoitzE%2FDCfcejfO%2BzOLmzZmy11RrgWpA56KM9DpasK%2BGtGYwCFvgaK6ijP5AqShEUhT8f2oX6hvndJ3G0oWH8DD1DlBWseQltpxcSDW2Uu52NrseaxeINpsrDP6vx7ny%2BkPKauMa3yeSanWiinWBsVPZdc94c8XLZhP%2BsGTTshTDLKj28wBbXFG1X8DTVBQd9o2LV6LQk1JektlYgT4NmJBUtR5izvJ728t94v4%2FtFhEU7TB5AUc1BKI0Wpvd5NvQzMbBUBnIfvFQoJtFr1lbC2tH9ARFmQF9J2np%2B%2BACSiTeC3GX2nPkKw04fjWwvjVaIhzo2cWEQfFxPK4GtImd%2BYp%2ByLYOSMjjIAiEvZoVHPgW8tY%2Fzyt9ieUL%2BSYb0Lr%2B%2FDc8kbm82Gnfk4N6Ay1%2F1LtXM5vCcdvU37TC3I7gt4Aw57sGHntggGGbFoJquw50tPxuYXzhmchLD2gbg%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A4429486&itmmeta=01HRSH6EKNGA1WXA4FV8JQD974

I was going to replace my tires just when Covid hit so ended up waiting and by the time I replaced them the front tires were 12 years old and rear were 10 years old, they were Bridgestone tires. They still looked really good (no pictures) but had plenty of tread left on them, minor cracking on the outside. I looked at each tire as they were pulled off, insides looked like new, I have no doubt the tire dealer sold them to truckers. The coach does not move without the TPMS reporting that all tires are at the correct pressure, which I think is key to getting long life out of the tire. In early 2021 I had a hard time finding tires, I wanted Toyo's but there were NONE to be had so I decided on Yokohama's. We ran both brands when I worked in the mines and they compared well to the Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestones we also ran. I got a bad taste in my mouth from the set of Michelins we ran on our Class C, they weather cracked badly at 4 years and replaced with Bridgetone which I liked but the price got way to high on a tire that I wouldn't actually wear out. When I was getting the tires changed a large OTR truck pulled in, must have been a long time customer as the shop owner screamed at his service guys to hop on the truck, man did they jump. While they were working on his tires I BS'd with the driver, an older gentleman who ran a fleet of truck He was running Firestones on the front but Yokohama's on the rear. He saw I was having Yokohamas installed and said he likes them and that any good truck shop should have them in stock. So I the Yokohama's, 6 tires for $3600 out the door. So far so good, probably have +20K miles on them, handling is good, ride is good but time will tell.

My steps started doing the same thing and I replaced the motor and lever arm assembly. Found it on Ebay back ~12 years ago. It may be the plastic gear that the motor mates to, only way to tell is pull it apart and take a look.

The original paint on my coach is Diamont, made by BASF. I have 2 distributors about 40 miles in either direction. You might try sending an inquiry to here. https://www.monacocoach.com/contact-us/

Glad you got it fixed. I was worried that the engine overheating might have caused a problem but if you drove for 3.5 hours you are probably OK. Still keep an eye on coolant level for the next little bit. Safe Travels.

Yup, There is hydraulic oil on both sides of the hydrualic cylinder piston. The big difference is the volume of the stem. So when you check the fluid with the slides in there will be less volume then with the slides out. Same holds through with hydraulic jacks, that why they recommend checking with jacks up with the front extended just a little.

You should be OK to drive Check your manual, there should be a description on how to recover fault codes for ABS. In my case I have an ABS diagnostic board in my front drivers side, I have to follow a procedure to get a blink code for ABS faults. Over the years I've had several. Most recent one showed the front drivers side wheel sensor was not sensing the tone ring. Pulled the sensor, cleaned it good, pushed it back in and that solved my problem. Sometimes Monaco put a button on a panel under the dash. Either way there should be a description in the manual.

Agree, if compressor is locked up just unplug the wires on the clutch so it doesn't engage, should be good to go. Not sure how many positions the idler pulley can be moved to or if it can be moved in our application. I did a bunch of searches on how to by pass alternator, if that was your problem and I found none. Is there a documented method to bypass, can someone post, wouldn't be a bad idea to have this in my files if it is possible.

This is an older thread, not sure how often Van checks the site. Hopefully someone can chime in to answer your question.

My tile was laid before the cabinets were installed, which makes it difficult to remove/replace a tile that goes underneath the cabinet. I had to fix one in the bed/bath area, got the old one out and trimmed it with my tile saw so that if fit up to the cabinet, didn't worry about trying to get it to go underneath. If you are just trying to get by this may be your best option. You can buy a cheap grinder and get a tile blade from Harbor Freight.

So someone reconfigured the belt so that it powers the AC. BUT you should be able to use the belt listed in the manual and be able to install and just bypass the compressor.

The air compressor is tensioned with a bolt/stop nut. It uses (on mine) a smaller V belt. I doubt the pulleys would line up to be able to use a single belt. I'd have him try and put the 3911581 belt on

If the floor is salvageable you can try a wood hardener. Pull the tile up, and use a scrapper to get the loose stuff up/off. Put a fan on it to dry it out, this may take a while but you could put one there at night and see if you can get it to dry out some. Lowes carries a wood hardener https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Wood-Hardener-16-fl-oz-Clear-Wood-Filler/1000447109?idProductFound=false&idExtracted=false Then use an adhesive to hold the tile down.

What kind of tile it this. I'd be checking for a water leak and possible damage to the floor. Take a sharp pick and see how soft the subfloor is. Check ice maker line on fridge, over the years mine developed pin hole leaks where the tubing was bent to get up to the water valve. Finally solved that problem by adding a flexible wire braided type plumbing hose.

There is one belt that drives the water pump and alternator and assume the fan. I have a side radiator with hydraulic fan so not sure on your rig.

That is the same belt this is on my 350 ISC But my compressor is not driven off this belt, I have a smaller belt for it. Yours, I would think would be the same. If something froze up it would probably be your alternator, other possibility it could be your water pump or idler pulley. Best thing to do is to crawl under and confirm or open the rear hatch and put your hands on the alternator pulley, water pump, and idler.

I think my belt PN is listed in my manual in a table toward the back of the book

ACV is not necessarily a good thing. Look up the value on your coach in NADA or Kelly Bluebook. Lots of variables and does it truly represent what your coach is worth. Can you find another coach for that, probably not. When something happens you really don't have a lot of leverage to negotiate.