jacwjames

Can you post a part number for the Arens actuator?? Where is this located??

You might consider buying a Fox and Hound wire tracer. You should be able to follow the direction of the wire. Don't buy a cheap one, mine works but its not the best, I needed it in a hurry so bought one from Harbor Freight. Amazon has a good selection https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fox+and+hound&crid=3ONDQVJ4NGNV8&sprefix=fox+and+houn%2Caps%2C684&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 I ended up having dead short in my rear bedroom circuit that also fed the bathroom and basement. The wires from the breaker box went into the ceiling. I was able to trace the wire in the ceiling back to the rear outside wall in the engine compartment when then went into the bedroom under the bed and to the outlets next to the bed. Somewhere between the breaker box and there I had a short. I as able rearrange the wiring, abandoned the portion in the ceiling and then back toward the rest of the circuit. It was a real head scratcher, both finding the locaiton of the short but figuring out a solution. Couldn't have done it without the wire tracer.

John, I hadn't had time to get any pictures but my pocket door track is mounted the same. Monaco put a trim piece on either side to dress up the ceiling, this is removeable to be able to access the door to adjust and remove if necessary. Keep that in mine as you are installing yours!!! The original doors are very well made and solid wood, in my case Walnut. One option would have been to contact a cabinet shop and had them duplicate with the species of wood work you have but it would have been expensive. And it still would have been difficult to match the patina of the wood as it aged. Lumber prices have gone crazy. So the $400 is probably a decent price to get something that matches.

Here is a guide/manual You need to check how the Inverter is set up based on you battery type, size and number for total amp hours available. Dr4Film shared how he set up his AGS with me, this might help you. I also included an inverter manual but this is for a 2000 watt inverter, yours might be different. RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming · Search Sense = Defeat · LBCO = ON · Battery Capacity = 500 amp · Battery Type = Liquid Lead Acid · Charge Rate = 80% · Set Shore Power = 30 amps · External Shunt = None · Fuel gauge Cutout = 11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC · Generator Start = 12.0 or 12.2 VDC · Generator Stop = Auto Float · Generator Quiet Time = 23:59 & 00:01 You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start RC7_RC-GS_Owners_Manual(975-0210-01-01_Rev-A).pdf RVSeries_2012-2512-3012-GS_Trace Owners_Manual(975-0209-01-01_Rev-A).pdf

You can buy this but it was the original, I just removed it and cleaned up good before putting it back in after I did the stairwell. I used LVP Pergo from Lowes when I did the floor. I didn't really use anything to attach it to the sides, I fit it in like a zigsaw puzzle starting at the bottom. There was enough space to slide it in next to the door trim. Fit each side first and then a snug fit with the toe kick using construction adhesive it to hold it in place. Then the edge trim at the top. Overall it turned out pretty good but took time to do it.

I'm using a Dell with Windows 10, I CAN NOT down load/open this type of image.

Don, Do you have a part number for slip ring, I've been doing some searching and in most cases they call them Collector rings.

I've been looking for replacement also and found this on Ebay BUT have not tried it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304774092871 Hopefully someone can post a real solution

I have pocket doors in that location, one on both sides that meet in the middle. I assume the width of the door your purchased will span the width but not be protruding when open. In my case it looks like they mounted a piece of wood that the track attaches to. You might be able to take advantage of the cabinet on one side and then use some sort of anchor on the other side so you don't have rely solely on the ceiling structure. My door uses a slider latch on the bottom that holds the door closed while traveling. Look at Lowes or Home Depot to see what they have available. Good luck, these types of modifications can be tricky.

I wouldn't get carried away pressure washing this, it is actually the heat sink on the bottom side of the inverter. Good chance you'd get water in the electronic portion on the other side. See parts page. I'd suggest removing the grill work and using a brush to clean off the sink. Inverter parts.pdf

I assume you have the 7.5KW generator. There is a belt, you have to remove the top and rear panels to access. There is a recommended service interval and it does shows 1000 hours (from memory) to replace. You pretty much have to remove the top to be able to inspect anyway so by the time you invest the effort it is probably makes sense to replace. I have 700 hours on mine and decided to go ahead and replace. I tried to find an aftermarket belt but could not confirm a good number so I just went ahead and bought one from the Cummins shop ~25 miles from me. Cost $18. The fan blade assembly is on the passenger side but it is driven off a pulley on the opposite side, you have to remove the pulley to change the belt. Took me ~2 hours. I also took the time to remove the spark arresstor plug and blow out the soot buildup, they recommend removing plug and running the generator for ~5 minutes under a load.

I have an air operated mechanism and had it out when I redid my stepwell flooring. On mine the front portion (toe kick) came off and I was able to remove the screws to get the cover out, it barely fit. On mine there is an access door underneath that is riveted in place, never had it out, but I believe that would give me access to get to the air lines attached to the small cylinder. I did not remove the cylinder, just removed the screws that fastened the end of the cylinder to the front portion (toe kick). In your case look at removed the front portion and see if you can get to the mechanism and also look underneath to see if there are bolts/nuts accessible from below.

That is the same system I have so my posts are valid. I had one jack that was slowly bleeding down and I opened/closed the T Handle and it solved my problem.

Do you have a switch near the front door that shuts off the house power, which is the fuse panel that feeds lights, and most of the 12 volt power in the house. The switch turns on/off a relay.

There is a T handle at the top of the valve block. These are there to release the jacks in case of emergency. Not sure which jack is raising so I'd recommend lowering them all and then one by one unscrew the T handle slowly, the rig will drop so stand back out of the way. Then tighten each one. Sometimes the needle valve gets some contamination in the small office and it allows fluid to bypass.

FWIW, When my wife first started driving our coach she made a lot of solo trips to dog shows, not having a job has it's benefits. We live in E TN and any direction we go there are steep grades. When we first got the coach she was driving it way more then me. When I was finally with her as a passenger I noticed she wasn't using the exhaust brake as much as I though she should so I provided some creative criticism on the exhaust brake and how to stab the brakes (you know how that goes) and she started to push back. I finally laid down law and told her she'd be paying for the first brake job if she didn't use the exhaust brake as much as possible, that changed her tune. We've put ~70 K miles on our rig, now have 125K mile on it and the brake shoes still have lots of meat on them.

How many miles on the coach?? Have you inspected the brakes? My coach is pretty heavy and I have to be careful when descending steep grades. Live 96 Evo I make sure to start out slow as I start the descent and don't let it gain speed. I stab the brakes with sort bursts of hard pressure to slow down, this does the job and doesn't get the brakes hot. Last year I put it to the test, drove from E TN through Colorado down into UT and then on the way back took a route in southern Colorado into NM. Saw some really steep grades. I don't let the people behind me bother me to go faster. I know I pissed a lot of people off, when I got to a passing lane a small truck came flying past me, zipped in front quickly and flipped me the BIRD, I just smiled and gave him the solute back😁.

I live in E TN, Welcome When was the last time air filter was changed Exhaust leak could contribute for sure Pretty easy to check all the air intake, turbo connections. CAC is also suspect, spray some soapy water on it then start rig and have someone get RPM's on engine and look for bubbles. Back in 2015 my radiator was damaged and had to be replaced. While it was out I had the CAC checked, they plugged the connection holes, put an air line to it, dropped it in a large vat of water and turned on the air>>>> looked like a jaccuzzi. So I had it repaired $1650>>> But it only gained me 1-2 psi in boost, I now get 24 psi occasionally. I use the Cummins Quickserve site, https://quickserve.cummins.com/qs3/portal/service/index.html I looked at the Symptoms for low boost and they have this posted. There are links within the document to other documents but the only way to get access is to open an account. Intake Manifold Pressure (Boost) is Below Normal.pdf

Nope, didn't go back that tight.

Tried a an air impact, wouldn't budge the bolt. Had to use a socket/ratchet and small cheater bar. No real good way to hole the pulley so I had to improvise.

I just changed the belt on mine. Layout in general is close but my 7.5KW has a different fan. I had to take off the top and rear panel to access but I left the rear panel in place and just tipped it back. Hardest part was getting the 4 bolts off the pulley to remove the belt, no good way to hold the pulley from spinning. Tried using a strap wrench but finally had to resort to using a channel locks on the pulley to hold it in place. No real instructions in the manual on that. Maybe someone else can provide a better solution.

I think a compression fitting would solve your problem, Nothing really to lose but trying it.

FWIW, I've owned my 2002 Windsor since 2008, so over the last 15 years I've accumulated a lot of information. Holler if you need something.

I've got a fuse in my front drivers side electrical bay for the step switch. If you have one you might try pulling it and see if that works for you.

I redid my flooring including the step well. Mine was covered with carpeting. I already had step well lights. When they constructed the coach the step well is metal, ~1/8" thick. It had holes cut in it and wires to the lights came from the outside. The outside had a layer of heavy rubber glued to it, the wires ran under the rubber. Then they sprayed foam on the outside to insulate. So when you remove the carpeting or covering in the step well you already have holes and maybe even wiring. If not you can use a good hole saw to cut the correct size hole, just make sure there is nothing on the outside. In my case the step well light is mounted on the passenger side arm rest. The switch is located next to salesman switch. If you don't have wires already run you could run them up near the firewall and then into the cab near the door. I used this type of luck, two of them https://www.ebay.com/itm/285512104534?itmmeta=01HTWM7ZFRJ6TRVFBBC830Y3JQ&hash=item4279d8fa56:g:GqQAAOSwb5llJniP&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0JzPpVDlcbJ19GBlVJd%2Fy7ueJGDp2qWZsZD9K1Co1GjRR7yxn6223JR4mPmqt%2B%2BC79woKhC9OlTF5G05yD%2BFvltWIQSPCWUvPLP63jMPkJClg%2FrnCVGhkAwMzyfUAlw11zukzElrvGc4eNRgNqEga%2F7O94UakqU9be2ImPp1YGy9VMSgVIwWhHlidWih1OLZfqrdykX7fLC8RmaRtl2jlP7lqtwXFuMrilI%2FYWkRIxbbMTjpShtwKmWQAsalfjIJZY%2BIuEhiPiTc0bnxJD9Dau0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4j4n5TXYw