jacwjames

I could not find a 2007 wiring diagram but I found a 2006 in the downloads sections. There is a page showing the rear run bay. There are two relays that have an ignition control wire. Suggest downloading the wiring diagram and confirm it matches what you have, then you should be able tap into on of the wires. Pictures would help.

Can you post a picture of you rear electrical bay?

FWIW My ice maker water line would develop a pin hole leak in it where it came up and bent over to go to the water valve, this happen every other year it seemed. I ended up getting a short steel braided hose and splicing that in where the bend would be. That pretty much solved the problem. My coach has a water filter under the kitchen sink, there is a small T handle valve where the small ice maker line is attached. This provides filtered water to the icemaker, makes clear ice cubes> can't hardly see them in my whiskey glass.

I remembered a post talking about an "Annunciator" which is what alarms for low air Not sure what is on earlier model coaches. Here's a post from IRV2 with a different type of annunciator https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacement-anunciator-38060867-a-574645.html Might be a hard part to find though

After I removed the plug I started the generator and then ran both AC's and another load to get about 40 amps, let it run for 40 minutes. I did an oil change and belt, checked the air filter and it was OK so I should be good to go.

So I got the belt changed, not a big deal since my generator is on a slide and I can get to it pretty easy, had to take the top and rear panel off to be able to remove the pulley to change the belt. A couple hours and I was done. The old belt was still in decent shape, will keep it for a spare. It did have some cracking in the cogged rubber portion but the rest looked pretty good. This AM I decided to clean the spark arrestor on the generator. 11/16" socket and a long extension. When I removed the plug a decent amount of soot dropped out but when I started the generator a bunch more blew out, made a pretty big mess on my garage floor but used a blower to send it out the large door. It had been a while since the last time I did that so I need to make sure to do it more often.

Here is an older post

My windows were in a frame, don't remember a rubber seal like that. After cleaning the window I used the spacer, https://www.dkhardware.com/black-3-16-wide-x-3-16-thick-edgetech-super-spacer-66-roll-ss31666bl-product-77197.html, I then used this sealant https://www.dkhardware.com/black-silicone-foam-and-metal-super-spacer-insulating-glass-sealant-877-product-18840.html with a guide block to put a good seal around the edge https://www.dkhardware.com/3-16-polyethylene-sealant-guide-sgt316-product-15491.html The used the metal frame to put window back in. And then a bead of caulk around the perimeter of the frame. But your's may be different.

Here is a picture of the drain based on the patent number on it. There is a large threaded nut on the bottom. If you can loosen it, pry the drain up, clean, and put a bead of caulk under it and then tighten the large nut it might seal the leak. Normally you'd use plumbers putty but doubt you could get it underneath unless you can loosen the nut a lot. US3742525-drawings-page-2.pdf

With the elevated portion below the drawers I'm not sure you'll be able to get to the drain. My guess is that the elevated platform has the drain and water supply for the washer/dryer so you'd have to contend with that also. Have you looked underneath to see if there is an access cover? Mount as close as you can to the drain so you can reach it. https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Round-Inspection-Hatch-Detachable/dp/B00MWQ75L2 You might consider getting a

Normally we don't use water pump when on city water but sometimes when my wife is giving a dog a bath and needs the extra pressure to penetrate the fur she'll turn on the water pump. We haven't had a problem but I guess it can happen. It does pull water from the tank, which is something that has to be monitored. I always travel with full tanks but if we are parked for extended periods the tank can be pulled down some, always try to top off before leaving a park.

So I called the Cummins parts line and confirmed they had on in stock at the Knoxville location, went and got it. ~$18. I did spend more time trying to cross, no luck. There are no makings on the new belt to cross. I guess the only option would be to take one in and have it measured.

Here is a link to a trailing arm bushing, not sure if they ship overseas. https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=bushing&Submit= In the downloads section there is a parts list that has a lot of different info, you find you tag axle parts there. Do you know the manufacturer of the rear/tag axle, most parts are common to large trucks. From my understanding Monaco bought the axles as an assembly and mounted them to the chassis. There should be a tag on the axle which might give you enough info to hunt down a parts breakdown.

I believe my replacement belt number is 0511-0235, I am going to replace it but having trouble finding. Cummins websit does show but can't find it on Amazon or Ebay or even in general search. I'll call the Cummins tomorrow to see if they have it in stock. Has anyone crossed this belt, if so what number did you use.

There should be a couple screws holding the resistor pack in, should just come right out after removing the screws. Any auto parts store should have one. I know the parts lists have them listed.

Mine is mounted into the plastic shroud of the AC condenser and heat exchanger. Mounted up mine has a red, orange and blue wire. Left center in picture

When was the last time you check the refrigerant pressures, if it is low on refrigerant the compressor will not run. You should be able to check by jumping the low pressure switch. When I first bought my 2002 Windsor in 2008 the AC would not run. I added one can of refrigerant and it took off and ran until ~2018. I then had to add a little. In 2021 I bought a cheap set of gauges to check and my neighbor who's a HVAC guy sold me a large canister of freon and help me check it. Late last year the AC didn't cool as good as I would like so checked it a couple weeks ago and had to add a little. At some point I may have to tear into it and look for a leak but adding a little every 3 years works for me. It would take a lot of $$$ and to completely rebuild the system.

What stops working, does the fan quit or does it stop cooling?

If it is happening every 10 seconds I would think it could be found just by listening and following the sound.

Have you tried you battery boost, maybe you chassis battery is on it's last leg. Same thing happen to my wife when she was driving the rig from E TN to Northern Michigan. Was able to start rig and drive but battery won't hold a charge. Once she got where I was I found the battery bad.

Agree on breaker size as long as you have a 12 awg wire, which you should be able to see when you take front of panel off. Assume you have a EMS system. If you are plugged into a 30 amp circuit the EMS load display will show amps. When I was having trouble with my front AC kicking the breaker I monitored the load meter while I started the AC up and noticed a pretty high spike in amps and even when it was started and running noticed it was pulling high amps. So I went on the roof and pulled the cover off the AC and inspected. When I tried to turn the motor shaft it was nearly impossible to turn by hand, it was essentially seized up. So I ordered a new one and replaced, that solved the problem. So if you are on the roof and have the AC cover off check the motor.

This where oil sampling really makes sense. Not only do you get information on any type of significant wear issues with the transmission but also the condition of the oil and if it is well withing spec's you can extend the oil change interval.

He said in his last post that he removed the tires & wheels twice a year to polish the rims. Hmmmmm He also said that he uses a TST TPMS with the flow through sensors BUT that the sensors are too long for him to add air without removing and that when he does his air pressure ends up lower then what he'd like. I have a TST TPMS but not the flow through sensors. When I add air I always go a little higher and then check what the readout says, if needed I unscrew and let a little out until I get to my settings. I run 10 psi higher in the front and about 5 psi higher in the back, I think it's better to be over inflated then under. I have the alarms set at recommended pressure, but the only problem with that is if I go from warm E TN weather to cold temps I may get an alarm in the AM, pain in the butt when you are asleep. If I'm going to be in cool weather I'll adjust my pressures up. Bottom line is I don't want to run my tires under inflated.

I've been following another post on IRV2 about a steer tire failure, fortunately it was caught while parked. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/holy-cow-betcha-never-seen-this-before-639706.html Looks nasty and the OPer swears it was not driven with low air pressure. It was a 7 year old Yokohama tire. Hard to believe but it highlights the importance of good inspections. I just crawled under my coach last week to do a lube job but I also used a good work light to inspect everything I could lay my eyes on. Definitely going to be keeping a close eye on the tires.

Looks like it's split, I had to replace one of mine that was split. Replaced with on like this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/362989132205 Confirmed with seller that it was the right size.