jacwjames

I replaced both units in 2021. I had already replaced the motor on the front unit in 2015 but the rear unit started to act up, making noise, so I tried to find a new motor without success. So just opted to change both 20 year old units. At the time PPL had the best prices and I talked to rep there to confirm fitment. He said I'd have to change to a 10 button thermostat, but I decided to go with the Micorair Easy touch. I opted to go from 13.5K BTU units to 15K units. At the time I paid $2717 for both units delivered. If you can buy new units for $1000 you got a smoking deal. I had previously replaced both drain cups but you need two gaskets for a new AC unit to elevate the AC's to be able use the drain cups. When I replaced them the old cups were extremely brittle so I'd recommend replacing. I was able to transfer the newer cups to the new AC's Prior to install I bought a remote camera and was able to inspect the entire duct length, glad I did, found several mouse holes but also found one duct joint that had never been taped/sealed from the factory. I think this really helped as far as cooling capacity, after AC's were installed I can get by with one AC unless temps get above 85F. Install was fairly straight forward. Took lots of picture including pictures of the dip switches and wiring. The new AC's came with some sort of plug, I just cut it off and hard wired, but it may pay to buy the female portion and do the plug and play on the AC units. The AC's use a slip joint to attach the AC to the duct work. I found it easier to go ahead and cut out a hole in the duct work from where the filter is located, this allowed me to install the slip joint easier, make sure it was sealed. I then just taped up the piece I cut out. At some point I could tell the rear AC had been previously removed and who ever did it just ripped the AC/slip joint out of the duct work and just set it back down crushing the duct work significantly reducing air flow/efficiency. I had previously fixed this when I changed gaskets. So just a word of warning. The Microair thermostat was plug and play, plugged it in and got the units to work. Took some time to figure out the wifi and bluetooth feature BUT I really like the ability to check/change temps. My wife travels with dogs and she has a trip planned this summer so I'm going to put a Visible hotspot/wifi connection in the RV so she can check remotely PLUS the thermostat will send alerts if temps are out of limits. I also have a EC30W AGS so if for some reason she looses shore power the generator will start if temps in coach gets too high.

I went through a similar issue a couple years ago, I thought it was the inverter, I even removed it and did some checking. Called a Trace service shop and talked to the tech, he said it sounded like the inverter was good. He gave me some trouble shooting tips. I shut off all the breakers in my main service panel and all the breakers in the subpanels for the inverter. Started the generator. Then flipped on both of the 50 amp breakers in the service panel, genny stayed running. Then flipped on the rest of the breakers one by one in the main service panel, genny stayed running. The started flipping breakers in the subpanel, as soon as I turned on the breaker for the circuit for the bedroom it genny died. Long story short, I suspect mice had chewed the wires in the ceiling. I ended up rerouting the wiring to get the circuit restored. SO turn off all the breakers in the power panels and see if the generator stays running.

When I removed my Norcold I was surprised at how sloppy the cooling unit had been installed. There was a large gap between the cooling unit and back of fridge that had been sealed with foam so the gap had been there when it was assembled. The bolts were tight but with the gap the heat transfer was not good. The fridge never really worked great during the time we owned it. Ended up replacing with a Samsung RF18, couldn't be happier. So you might try tightening the bolts accessed from inside the fridge.

Where is your water pump located?? In my case it is in the small compartment next to the wet bay. My controller is located in that compartment, it actually has a relay between the latching controller and water pump, relay switches to a larger wire size which carries higher amperage.

Is this with the engine off, either way it looks low. In your manual there is a table showing what the high pressure should be with engine running.

I didn't have a BB but my system incorporated an isolation solenoid, BIRD, and Lambert 415 maintainer. Two years ago the Lambert was acting up so I decided to bit the bullet and install the Bluesea MLRac. Installing the relay was easy, 15 minutes. Installing the dash switch not so much. I spent a day looking for spare wires. I found several in the wiring looms around the engine and using a tracer could not find the ends in the front or visa versa and some of the wires I found were labeled for functions I didn't want to take a chance on. So I opted to put in a 3/4" conduit. I bought two 10' pieces, started in the front. Had the generator extended out, pushed the first piece through the hole cut in the floor supports other wires and hoses were run on the passenger side, Pushed it across the top of the fuel tank and then into the basement roof area, hit something and had to drop the ceiling panel in the first pass through bay. Was able to push the conduit further back, added another piece of conduit, pushed some more conduit and got it the small bay where my inverter is and was able to reach up and find the end and push it back across the top of my water tanks and it day lighted just in front of the rear axle to where I could access it. I decided to pull multiple wires in case I needed more in the future and found that I could buy a trailer wiring kit at a decent price so used that. Pulled the wires through rear to front and pulled them up into the dash area where my switch would be and back into my rear passenger side run bay where the Bluesea is mounted. So now I have 4 extra wires, not sure what I'll use them for, been contemplating a EGT install.

I may have read it wrong but it sounded like he rebuilt the BB but the chassis battery was dead.

Back in 2012 the chassis battery died while my wife was driving from E TN to northern Michigan. She was able to use the battery boost to start the coach and continued north. I changed the chassis battery when she to to where I was. You should be able to start your coach with the boost button.

Yes but you will have to add a 12 volt power source. Attached is the wires that go to my plug, which is what is shown in you photo. When you open the PDF it will be blurry, hit CTRL5 and it will clear up. Also attached is a diagram for the 7 pin plug, You will have to figure out which wires are for the different funcitions. FWIW, if you follow the wires up into the wiring loom you will probably find a male/female connector buried in the wires. You might be better off starting there and eliminate the other connectors. 2002_Windsor_wiring_diagrams Tow Plug.pdf Trailer Wiring Diagrams.docx

I have 3 fuse holders in my rear passenger side electrical bay, several fuses in each holder. Most of the fuses are for the engine, one is for the transmission. If you have fuses like this I'd check, There have been several recent posts of a no start when one of the fuses was blown. In the same bay there is also a IGN relay. I also had a no start situation, I had moved the rig to the street in front of the house to connect the toad, went to start and nothing. But I had the cat eyes on the allison display. Ended up being the TCM and had to have ti replaced. Some point later I opened the old one and had burnt circuit board,

This happen to me once. First thing I checked was the chassis battery disconnect, it was not passing voltage. Removed it and bolted both cables together to get the rig started. Ordered a new disconnect and installed for the final fix.

When was the last time you lubricated the gears/rollers/bearing surfaces.

Not sure, you might one of the clip together type https://www.lowes.com/pd/Twist-and-Seal-0-5-ft-Plastic-Cord-Organizer/1000132801 But if water gets trapped in it you may have more problems. The OEM connector is pretty water tight, not sure if you could do any better.

Ya, I know when I changed my surge tank I did remove the probe and even with the tank out it was difficult to remove. The circuit can still be tested by running a ground wire to where the probe wire is connected.

Here's a link to a manual I had in my files, it is for an 2005 model year, not sure if yours is different https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/transmissions/3000_4000_operators.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiVkLCiyZeFAxUNfjABHUtuB_YQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2NZpxZ305ooaNKlC1xC-wO There is a picture of the communication cable, drivers side.

Not sure what low coolant sensor you have. My 2002 had a long probe that went down into the tank, a rubber grommet held it in place. This type of probe was known to get dirty and would throw a low coolant light. The solution was to remove the probe and clean with a scotts bright pad. The probes contact with the coolant completed the ground circuit, you can test by cleaning and touching it to metal. My original tank developed a leak and I changed, the new coolant sensor screwed into the bottom, one wire connection to the sensor but it worked the same, coolant touching the sensor completed the ground.

I'd check the plug, take it apart and inspect for moisture or signs of corrosion. Use some electric cleaner on both sides and maybe a little dielectric grease the put it back together making sure it's tight.

You can test by jumping the low pressure switch to see if the clutch engages. If it does it probably means you have low freon. When I first bout my coach in 2008 the AC wasn't working, clutch not engaging so I added one can of freon and it took off. That lasted until ~2020 and it stopped working again. Bought a set of gauges and my neighbor who does HVAC work sold me a large bottle of the 134-A refrigerant and charged my system. Since I didn't open up my system I didn't bother with pulling a vacuum etc. Had to add a little more this year. If it gets much worse I'll have to put in some dye and look for the leak but adding a little refrigerant every 3-4 years will work for now. There is a table in my manual that shows pressure based on ambient temp.

Back several years ago Dr4film posted what he used for his Trace inverter settings, I copied and saved them. RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming · Search Sense = Defeat · LBCO = ON · Battery Capacity = 500 amp · Battery Type = Liquid Lead Acid · Charge Rate = 80% · Set Shore Power = 30 amps · External Shunt = None · Fuel gauge Cutout = 11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC · Generator Start = 12.0 or 12.2 VDC · Generator Stop = Auto Float · Generator Quiet Time = 23:59 & 00:01 You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start

Look where the filter is, remove filter and see if you can see the tubing that the AC drain cups attach to. This may give you an idea where the drain is. If there is tubing I'd try to make sure it is not stopped up. Every couple of years I use compressed air to purge mine out both going up into the cups and down into the tubing.

Had to replace motor and gear box. With slide in you don't need any support. The gearbox itself is a sealed unit, but it wouldn't hurt to open it up and check everything. I use a silicone spray on my gears and track, the silicone won't gather dirt as easy. Check to make sure the slide isn't hitting or dragging. Can't remember if there are pillow block type bearings or not, if there are I'd lube them also and any other moving parts.

How old are the AC units? What kind of Furnace do you have?

How long does it take to do a wash? How much water for one load? How are you going to dry the cloths?

Bubble test is basically using a spray bottle with soapy water, spray all the connections and watch for bubbles. Chances are you'll find some. A leak can occur over night. FWIW, in 2021 I checked my system before a long trip, no leaks and the air system would stay up for a week. on the second day of my trip I noticed that my low air alarm went off when I turn the key. ODD, hadn't done that before. Next day did the same thing so I started monitoring and loss of air got progressively worse. Finally took a spray bottle of soapy water and started checking and found that each of the PPV's were leaking. PPV= Pressure Protection Valve, I had four of them. I ended up cutting my trip short to repair. Here's a fairly long thread on the repair, I went through the whole system.

There is a tag on the dryer, you should be able to confirm make/model. Just get one based on the numbers, they make after market but for this I'd stick with OEM. Take lots of pictures, tag the hoses. If a hose looks iffy I'd take the time to change.