jacwjames

Can you post a picture of your wet bay??

You might look at the other side and see if you can trace wire.

I had this happen to me while using the rig. I reset it with a magnet and it worked >>>> for a day. Went back outside and found the bottom of the fridge covered in yellow dust. Unplugged the fridge and was thankful it didn't catch fire. Never looked back, installed a residential refrigerator. If you decide to reset I'd make sure your smoke alarm is working, fire extinguishers ready (may consider buying extras), and have your escape route planned and practiced.

Part number is also on your build or data sheet if you have one.

My 2002 Windsor used a Firestone 9376(1T15L-2) I bought two spares to carry, ContiTech AS9376, purchased from TruckandTrailer.parts $311 including shipping no tax Hopefully someone with a 2005 can confirm what you have

Not sure what mileage you get but at 7 mpg you used ~715 gallons and you say your saved $558 or $0.78. That's pretty impressive. I don't use the TSD card, I just shop for areas with lower prices. Based on the posted prices at most of the larger truck stops I pass along the way I usually can save ~$0.60/gal sometimes more.

What I find odd is that Bob is seeing both a warning light but also a higher reading on the dash gauge. I know on my coach there are two pressure sensors. When I first bought the coach in 2008 the dash gauge was pegging high but no warning lights. Since I had no history on the coach (no maintenance records etc, I decided to take it to Cummins for a full service and inspection. I asked them to look at the oil pressure issue, they said that the sensor had been installed in the wrong port, they corrected but since the gauge had been pegged for so long it still reads high. But at some point during early ownership I got a Silverleaf VMSpc so I had real time readings of all critical info including oil pressure. I have also set up alarms for low oil pressure, high engine and tranny temp, and low voltage. I also set up data logging to track 1 minute intervals of engine and tranny temp, boost and voltage as I had trouble with high tranny temps but since have bypassed the internal tranny cooler in radiator and replaced with stand along cooler.

I found the info on the regulator by going to the service tab and then looking in the "Symptoms" tab and found the high oil pressure issue, it had a link on how to check and clean. Found the part number by searching for "regulator". If you have a way to check pressure that would be the first thing I'd do.

Always good to get back home after a long trip.

Monaco installed the sensor feeding the dash gauge and Cummins for the ECM. You won't find it on your Quickserve because it is engine specific, in this case a 5.9. NOTE, I have not tried the part but individual on IRV2 said he did. Not sure what pressure would trigger a high pressure warning. I know that my cold start up the pressure will exceed 60 psi. Might be worth getting a gauge and or scanner to see what the pressure it. I looked at the Quickserve site and they did have a procedure to check oil pressure regulator. see attached Attached is a page showing where the regulator is, looks like right next to oil filter, attached is a page showing where it is, item 14 Also is a picture showing the part & number In my past life working in mining we used Deutz and Cat, but not many Cummins. We could adjust oil pressure if we starting seeing lower pressure, never saw higher pressure. When was last time oil was changed???? Oil Pressure regulator.pdf Item 14 pressure regulator location.pdf Genuine Cummins Parts.pdf

Well, if it's in the manual I'd disconnect and wouldn't take any chances. I only have 10 steps, I have the Quadra–Drive II 4WD Model transmission. I press a small button to get it into and out of neutral. EASY. FWIW, after we bought the Jeep and started to tow we had a recall, Jeep had reflash the PCM to prevent it from going out of neutral, so being a practical person I took it in ASAP. After that about 1/2 the time we couldn't get it to go into neutral, found a work around on line which involved pulling a fuse. But every once in a while that didn't fix it. One time we had to drive it back from FL following the coach. My wife also got stranded up in NY and had to take it into a dealer to have it reflashed but that didn't completely fix. Contacted Jeep customer service and they said they had no reports of this happening even though there were hundreds posted on IRV2. They finally redid the flash so you could put it into neutral. Not impressed with Jeep at that point.

You can try and use the one next to the propane tank, it would work for filling a smaller tire and in a pinch work on the RV but you have to time it with the cycling of the compressor, which is controlled by the governor. It should put out whatever the dash gauges put out. Personally I carry a small pancake compressor capable of 150 psi to top off tires.

Which manual are you taking about, the Redi-Brake or the Jeep. I looked at the Jeep manual starting on page 378 it has the instructions for recreational towing, which look similar to what I have to do for my 2005 Jeep GC. There is no mention of removing the negative battery cable. I use a Roadmaster 9000 supplemental brake where an air cylinder depresses the brake pedal as I apply brakes on my coach. When I do this the brake lights come on. So when I set up my Jeep I decided to use the separate bulbs in the tail lights for turn signals, flashers, and running lights. Bought a kit on line and ran the wiring front to back to install the bulbs. Works Great BUT if I drive the coach for 3 days without starting the Jeep to charge the battery it will drain it because of the brake lights coming on and off. So I've learned to just start the Jeep and let it run for 15-20 minutes every other day. Never had another problem. So if you are going to use some sort of light kit that bypasses the Jeep's brake lights I'd remove the negative cable or start and let the Jeep run every other day to keep the battery charged.

Bob, is this the dash gauge reading or ECM reading to some sort of monitor? The dash gauge is a Monaco install along with the sending unit. Here is the parts page for my Monaco installed sensor. Cummins also changed their sensor to a switch which does require software change and will cost ~$450 to do it. If you go to the Cummins Quickserve site and look up the part it will be superseded to a new part number which is the switch. But if you go that route and use some sort of monitor (I use a Silverleaf), the oil pressure will read 55psi. I want to know what my oil pressure is, don't want a dummy light or false reading. There was a discussion on IRV2 about this and someone posted that you can use a sensor from a 5.9 and it works. The individual actually bought one and tried it. I went ahead and bought one to carry. https://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Sensor-4921511-Cummins-Dodge/dp/B079L17GJT See picture 1 Oil Pressure Sending Unit.pdf

There should be a sticker on the motor, with that you might be able to figure out the slide system itself. There may also be a controller specific to the system that might help identify. Look at any other parts you can see to try and find a part number. Post any numbers you come up with and I'll try and help source info Most of the info I've accumulated is older for my coach but may be helpful. Attached is a service manual for Power Gear slides. It does have info on how to troubleshoot and service. If you do find a part number on a part do a search in this document to see if you get hits. PowerGearSlides-ServiceManual.pdf

I think the plastic strip acts more to keep water in the shower and/or holds the glass in place. The door is probably a male/female hinge type system where the two pieces interlock to allow the door to swing. Really only way to tell is to remove the door and see how it works. The plastic strip is probably replaceable. DK Hardware sells lots of types of hardware. https://www.dkhardware.com/

Sounds like you've got it. I actually screwed my wiring up and had to redo it, it didn't damage the switch or Bluesea. I wired in the isolation functions with a fuse holder, one for engine and one for generator but left the fuse out. Haven't seen any adverse affects and I've got the option to use the dash switch to shut the Bluesee off.

Since the inverter and display go hand in hand my guess is that the repair tech might be able to help!

When I thought I was having trouble iwht my Trace I first called Trace and talked to a service rep there he said the inverter was toast. But being a skeptical person I decided to call a repair shop >> Inverter Sales and Service, Whitehouse TN 615-285-0611 The tech was really sharp and more then willing to talk. I was ready to pack mine up and send it in but based on what I told him he said there was nothing wrong with it but gave me things to check and I was ultimately able to solve my problem.

I replaced both units in 2021. I had already replaced the motor on the front unit in 2015 but the rear unit started to act up, making noise, so I tried to find a new motor without success. So just opted to change both 20 year old units. At the time PPL had the best prices and I talked to rep there to confirm fitment. He said I'd have to change to a 10 button thermostat, but I decided to go with the Micorair Easy touch. I opted to go from 13.5K BTU units to 15K units. At the time I paid $2717 for both units delivered. If you can buy new units for $1000 you got a smoking deal. I had previously replaced both drain cups but you need two gaskets for a new AC unit to elevate the AC's to be able use the drain cups. When I replaced them the old cups were extremely brittle so I'd recommend replacing. I was able to transfer the newer cups to the new AC's Prior to install I bought a remote camera and was able to inspect the entire duct length, glad I did, found several mouse holes but also found one duct joint that had never been taped/sealed from the factory. I think this really helped as far as cooling capacity, after AC's were installed I can get by with one AC unless temps get above 85F. Install was fairly straight forward. Took lots of picture including pictures of the dip switches and wiring. The new AC's came with some sort of plug, I just cut it off and hard wired, but it may pay to buy the female portion and do the plug and play on the AC units. The AC's use a slip joint to attach the AC to the duct work. I found it easier to go ahead and cut out a hole in the duct work from where the filter is located, this allowed me to install the slip joint easier, make sure it was sealed. I then just taped up the piece I cut out. At some point I could tell the rear AC had been previously removed and who ever did it just ripped the AC/slip joint out of the duct work and just set it back down crushing the duct work significantly reducing air flow/efficiency. I had previously fixed this when I changed gaskets. So just a word of warning. The Microair thermostat was plug and play, plugged it in and got the units to work. Took some time to figure out the wifi and bluetooth feature BUT I really like the ability to check/change temps. My wife travels with dogs and she has a trip planned this summer so I'm going to put a Visible hotspot/wifi connection in the RV so she can check remotely PLUS the thermostat will send alerts if temps are out of limits. I also have a EC30W AGS so if for some reason she looses shore power the generator will start if temps in coach gets too high.

I went through a similar issue a couple years ago, I thought it was the inverter, I even removed it and did some checking. Called a Trace service shop and talked to the tech, he said it sounded like the inverter was good. He gave me some trouble shooting tips. I shut off all the breakers in my main service panel and all the breakers in the subpanels for the inverter. Started the generator. Then flipped on both of the 50 amp breakers in the service panel, genny stayed running. Then flipped on the rest of the breakers one by one in the main service panel, genny stayed running. The started flipping breakers in the subpanel, as soon as I turned on the breaker for the circuit for the bedroom it genny died. Long story short, I suspect mice had chewed the wires in the ceiling. I ended up rerouting the wiring to get the circuit restored. SO turn off all the breakers in the power panels and see if the generator stays running.

When I removed my Norcold I was surprised at how sloppy the cooling unit had been installed. There was a large gap between the cooling unit and back of fridge that had been sealed with foam so the gap had been there when it was assembled. The bolts were tight but with the gap the heat transfer was not good. The fridge never really worked great during the time we owned it. Ended up replacing with a Samsung RF18, couldn't be happier. So you might try tightening the bolts accessed from inside the fridge.

Where is your water pump located?? In my case it is in the small compartment next to the wet bay. My controller is located in that compartment, it actually has a relay between the latching controller and water pump, relay switches to a larger wire size which carries higher amperage.

Is this with the engine off, either way it looks low. In your manual there is a table showing what the high pressure should be with engine running.

I didn't have a BB but my system incorporated an isolation solenoid, BIRD, and Lambert 415 maintainer. Two years ago the Lambert was acting up so I decided to bit the bullet and install the Bluesea MLRac. Installing the relay was easy, 15 minutes. Installing the dash switch not so much. I spent a day looking for spare wires. I found several in the wiring looms around the engine and using a tracer could not find the ends in the front or visa versa and some of the wires I found were labeled for functions I didn't want to take a chance on. So I opted to put in a 3/4" conduit. I bought two 10' pieces, started in the front. Had the generator extended out, pushed the first piece through the hole cut in the floor supports other wires and hoses were run on the passenger side, Pushed it across the top of the fuel tank and then into the basement roof area, hit something and had to drop the ceiling panel in the first pass through bay. Was able to push the conduit further back, added another piece of conduit, pushed some more conduit and got it the small bay where my inverter is and was able to reach up and find the end and push it back across the top of my water tanks and it day lighted just in front of the rear axle to where I could access it. I decided to pull multiple wires in case I needed more in the future and found that I could buy a trailer wiring kit at a decent price so used that. Pulled the wires through rear to front and pulled them up into the dash area where my switch would be and back into my rear passenger side run bay where the Bluesea is mounted. So now I have 4 extra wires, not sure what I'll use them for, been contemplating a EGT install.