jacwjames

I've been looking for replacement also and found this on Ebay BUT have not tried it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304774092871 Hopefully someone can post a real solution

I have pocket doors in that location, one on both sides that meet in the middle. I assume the width of the door your purchased will span the width but not be protruding when open. In my case it looks like they mounted a piece of wood that the track attaches to. You might be able to take advantage of the cabinet on one side and then use some sort of anchor on the other side so you don't have rely solely on the ceiling structure. My door uses a slider latch on the bottom that holds the door closed while traveling. Look at Lowes or Home Depot to see what they have available. Good luck, these types of modifications can be tricky.

I wouldn't get carried away pressure washing this, it is actually the heat sink on the bottom side of the inverter. Good chance you'd get water in the electronic portion on the other side. See parts page. I'd suggest removing the grill work and using a brush to clean off the sink. Inverter parts.pdf

I assume you have the 7.5KW generator. There is a belt, you have to remove the top and rear panels to access. There is a recommended service interval and it does shows 1000 hours (from memory) to replace. You pretty much have to remove the top to be able to inspect anyway so by the time you invest the effort it is probably makes sense to replace. I have 700 hours on mine and decided to go ahead and replace. I tried to find an aftermarket belt but could not confirm a good number so I just went ahead and bought one from the Cummins shop ~25 miles from me. Cost $18. The fan blade assembly is on the passenger side but it is driven off a pulley on the opposite side, you have to remove the pulley to change the belt. Took me ~2 hours. I also took the time to remove the spark arresstor plug and blow out the soot buildup, they recommend removing plug and running the generator for ~5 minutes under a load.

I have an air operated mechanism and had it out when I redid my stepwell flooring. On mine the front portion (toe kick) came off and I was able to remove the screws to get the cover out, it barely fit. On mine there is an access door underneath that is riveted in place, never had it out, but I believe that would give me access to get to the air lines attached to the small cylinder. I did not remove the cylinder, just removed the screws that fastened the end of the cylinder to the front portion (toe kick). In your case look at removed the front portion and see if you can get to the mechanism and also look underneath to see if there are bolts/nuts accessible from below.

That is the same system I have so my posts are valid. I had one jack that was slowly bleeding down and I opened/closed the T Handle and it solved my problem.

Do you have a switch near the front door that shuts off the house power, which is the fuse panel that feeds lights, and most of the 12 volt power in the house. The switch turns on/off a relay.

There is a T handle at the top of the valve block. These are there to release the jacks in case of emergency. Not sure which jack is raising so I'd recommend lowering them all and then one by one unscrew the T handle slowly, the rig will drop so stand back out of the way. Then tighten each one. Sometimes the needle valve gets some contamination in the small office and it allows fluid to bypass.

FWIW, When my wife first started driving our coach she made a lot of solo trips to dog shows, not having a job has it's benefits. We live in E TN and any direction we go there are steep grades. When we first got the coach she was driving it way more then me. When I was finally with her as a passenger I noticed she wasn't using the exhaust brake as much as I though she should so I provided some creative criticism on the exhaust brake and how to stab the brakes (you know how that goes) and she started to push back. I finally laid down law and told her she'd be paying for the first brake job if she didn't use the exhaust brake as much as possible, that changed her tune. We've put ~70 K miles on our rig, now have 125K mile on it and the brake shoes still have lots of meat on them.

How many miles on the coach?? Have you inspected the brakes? My coach is pretty heavy and I have to be careful when descending steep grades. Live 96 Evo I make sure to start out slow as I start the descent and don't let it gain speed. I stab the brakes with sort bursts of hard pressure to slow down, this does the job and doesn't get the brakes hot. Last year I put it to the test, drove from E TN through Colorado down into UT and then on the way back took a route in southern Colorado into NM. Saw some really steep grades. I don't let the people behind me bother me to go faster. I know I pissed a lot of people off, when I got to a passing lane a small truck came flying past me, zipped in front quickly and flipped me the BIRD, I just smiled and gave him the solute back😁.

I live in E TN, Welcome When was the last time air filter was changed Exhaust leak could contribute for sure Pretty easy to check all the air intake, turbo connections. CAC is also suspect, spray some soapy water on it then start rig and have someone get RPM's on engine and look for bubbles. Back in 2015 my radiator was damaged and had to be replaced. While it was out I had the CAC checked, they plugged the connection holes, put an air line to it, dropped it in a large vat of water and turned on the air>>>> looked like a jaccuzzi. So I had it repaired $1650>>> But it only gained me 1-2 psi in boost, I now get 24 psi occasionally. I use the Cummins Quickserve site, https://quickserve.cummins.com/qs3/portal/service/index.html I looked at the Symptoms for low boost and they have this posted. There are links within the document to other documents but the only way to get access is to open an account. Intake Manifold Pressure (Boost) is Below Normal.pdf

Nope, didn't go back that tight.

Tried a an air impact, wouldn't budge the bolt. Had to use a socket/ratchet and small cheater bar. No real good way to hole the pulley so I had to improvise.

I just changed the belt on mine. Layout in general is close but my 7.5KW has a different fan. I had to take off the top and rear panel to access but I left the rear panel in place and just tipped it back. Hardest part was getting the 4 bolts off the pulley to remove the belt, no good way to hold the pulley from spinning. Tried using a strap wrench but finally had to resort to using a channel locks on the pulley to hold it in place. No real instructions in the manual on that. Maybe someone else can provide a better solution.

I think a compression fitting would solve your problem, Nothing really to lose but trying it.

FWIW, I've owned my 2002 Windsor since 2008, so over the last 15 years I've accumulated a lot of information. Holler if you need something.

I've got a fuse in my front drivers side electrical bay for the step switch. If you have one you might try pulling it and see if that works for you.

I redid my flooring including the step well. Mine was covered with carpeting. I already had step well lights. When they constructed the coach the step well is metal, ~1/8" thick. It had holes cut in it and wires to the lights came from the outside. The outside had a layer of heavy rubber glued to it, the wires ran under the rubber. Then they sprayed foam on the outside to insulate. So when you remove the carpeting or covering in the step well you already have holes and maybe even wiring. If not you can use a good hole saw to cut the correct size hole, just make sure there is nothing on the outside. In my case the step well light is mounted on the passenger side arm rest. The switch is located next to salesman switch. If you don't have wires already run you could run them up near the firewall and then into the cab near the door. I used this type of luck, two of them https://www.ebay.com/itm/285512104534?itmmeta=01HTWM7ZFRJ6TRVFBBC830Y3JQ&hash=item4279d8fa56:g:GqQAAOSwb5llJniP&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0JzPpVDlcbJ19GBlVJd%2Fy7ueJGDp2qWZsZD9K1Co1GjRR7yxn6223JR4mPmqt%2B%2BC79woKhC9OlTF5G05yD%2BFvltWIQSPCWUvPLP63jMPkJClg%2FrnCVGhkAwMzyfUAlw11zukzElrvGc4eNRgNqEga%2F7O94UakqU9be2ImPp1YGy9VMSgVIwWhHlidWih1OLZfqrdykX7fLC8RmaRtl2jlP7lqtwXFuMrilI%2FYWkRIxbbMTjpShtwKmWQAsalfjIJZY%2BIuEhiPiTc0bnxJD9Dau0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4j4n5TXYw

The orange wire is for isolation, this is if you want to disable the MLRac when there is another power source, say generator. The the BlueSea needs 3 wires to the switch and a jumper cable power supply which I picked up in the front, plugged into +8 spade Yellow LED plugged into the -7 Red Remote from the Blue sea which was the existing wire for the boost switch plugged into the 2 spot, in my case this was the purple wire Jumper cable between +8 & spot 3 The Bluesea also needed a ground and I used the existing ground coming from the ground bar. The wire from the original boost switch, which on my coach was purple was hooked the the isolation solenoid, so I used it for the remote switch . But I had to get a third wire from the BlueSea all the way to the front dash to wire in the switch, this is the yellow wire on the instruction. I did search for a day for an available spare wire in the rear of my coach but couldn't find one so pulled a set of 5 wires to the front so I could use one for the switch switch.

I don't use the microwave off Inverter as it uses too much battery amps. I'll start the generator. The only thing I've had trouble with on the inverter is a Space Saver Black and Decker coffee maker, the type you can mount under the overhead cabinet. Actually installed two of them and they both failed after a short amount of time. Resorted to a simple on/off type coffee maker.

Here is a link to what is available in the Downloads section https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/1-air-systems-leveling-jacks/ I had the attached in my files which is dated 1999, I found it very close to mine. AIR SYSTEM Dynasty and Windsor.pdf

Get a volt meter and check to see if any of the wires are hot with key on. You do have 7 wires so one may be carrying power. On my coach the Red (stop), Yellow (Left turn/stop), Gray (Backup), Green (right turn/stop), Brown (marker lights), White (Ground). I only have 6 wires on the rectangular shaped plug. I do not have a Black wire. I had to install a umbilical cable from coach to front of Jeep, six wire to 7 wire, I did not install a power supply to jeep.

You can download the air system schematic and might tell you where the line goes & purpose. When I worked on my air system I had one larger hose/tube that was coming in at an angle and had a small leak. I replaced the Push to Connect fitting with a Compression type and got it to seal right up.

You could get a Fox & Hound type wire tracer to find them in the rear of the coach.

Can you post a picture of your wet bay??