willbo777

42 minutes ago, CapnDean said:

In addition to a bad pressure switch, I have discovered that there is a slight air leak at the intake air filter of small air pump.    I confirmed this by removing the threaded in air filter and blocking the hole with my finger.     I’m afraid that this means a bad diaphragm in the pump.    Not completely sure

I replaced my pump several times, first off with Firestone 9285, and most recently with a Viair 350C.  As I said I moved it into a bay compartment to get it out of the weather.  I am very pleased with the Viair, when it runs, it takes half the time as the Firestone.  It is almost an exact replacement and quite affordable.

Josam's in Orlando is a dealer.  Talk to Barry.

The Valid system is different from the HWH in that the aux pump runs only based on the 90/120 pressure switch, turning off the leveling panel will not turn the aux pump off.  I like others have wired in a switch to near my leveling panel so I can turn it off.  The aux pump only pumps up a small leveling tank.  I also moved my aux pump inside a cargo bay to get it out of the weather.  If it runs and doesn't shut off the pump is bad or there is a leak between the pump and the tank.  If your coach sits for 5 days normally without the aux pump running it appears you don't have much of a system leak.  My pump runs 2-3 times a day for less than a minute.  Monaco also hooked many of them up wrong, the check valve needs to be at the aux pump not at the tank.

I have a barely used, less than 6 months, 36 foot Glendinning 50 amp power cord for sale.  It has their proprietary plug on the end with a light for power and a hinge for easy removal from the receptacle.  It was ordered in error too short for my needs.  Paid $250, I would like to get $150 plus shipping. It is located in the Sarasota area.

I just replaced mine as well, although I had to remove the entire unit to get to the nut, not a big deal.

We have traveled about 10,000 miles a year in our 16 years of full timing.  It is harder and harder to find campgrounds that are desirable and not full.  We are now having to make reservations almost a year in advance.  I should say we travel, we don't just go somewhere and park for a few months.  And to the previous poster, Fishing Bridge is not open until fall of 2021, it was delayed a year for Covid.  The OP's post is so generalized it is almost impossible to answer.  We have favorite destinations and favorite campgrounds around the whole country.  We'd be happy to help and offer a few suggestions, but try to narrow it down a bit if you can.

OMG

18 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

I've also had TST (non color display and repeater in the engine bay of the coach) for several years, and basically happy.  One minor annoying "problem" I have is one to three or more sensors (coach and toad as well experience this) will suddenly (and almost simultaneously) set an alarm of high pressure. ... Like 545 lbs (coach) or 400 something (toad). It may go off for 3-5 minutes then read normal values again.  Strangely, many times it happens just as we slow down or turn into the campground ... I've sometimes joked "there's our arrival alarm ... Time to wake up dear...". Once in a while one may go off crossing an overpass.  It is not any particular sensor, and happens even with new batteries.  Sometimes it happens in the AM as I've turned the monitor on as I pack up sewer/water/elec, in which case the repeater is off as it is on a switched ignition circuit.  The coach is flow through sensors while the toad is the other (maybe why one kind reads 500 something lbs and the other 400 something). As the tire(s) couldn't just magically gain a few hundred pounds in an instant, I just press a button to silence it and continue onward...   Anybody else experience this weird behavior? 

 

 

Yes, about a year ago or so I had exactly the same problem and called TST.  They told me it was a glitch and the monitors were picking up other TPMS's in the area.  They said they had 2 new monitors a black and white one and a color one that had different software and it would solve the problem, they even offered a discount for that reason.  I settled on the new black and white and they were right, it totally solved the problem, give them a call.  And the new monitor is worlds better than the old one.

Be sure the hydraulic reservoir for the slides is full.  If it gets low they can creep.

On our 2007 Nav which should be very close to your coach, it is in the rear run bay labeled step.

I tried to put 315's on my 2007 45' coach and they would not fit on the front right, interfered with the air bag mount.

After 2 sets of cracking Michelins, we swore off Michelin forever.  The last set I had were Coach X that required a few pounds less in the front than the XZA2 that they replaced.  I put on Toyo M144 in 295, and did wonder if the higher inflation on the Toyos would be noticeable.  My steer axle is right at the limit so I need 125# in the steer tires.  When we first did it and took our first ride, my wife commented how much smoother the ride was compared to the Michelins.  We now have had the tires on a little over 2 years and have put over 30,000 miles on them and I can say without a doubt it is a better ride than the Michelins.

Follow up.  I ordered an exact replacement alternator from AJ Electric.  They were very professional, very fair priced, and amazingly quick to ship, an hour!  My wife and I replaced the alternator.  I did learn a few things.  Turning off the battery switches only removes some of the power, I needed to remove the neg cables off my house and chassis batteries, and pull the solar fuse, once dead, it was a straightforward job, heavy and unwieldy, not difficult.  One glitch though, I could not get the pulley off the old one with the tools I had, so I went to a nearby alternator shop and they pulled it for me, after that easy.  It is all in and working perfectly, I have driven 3 days with it, about 1000 miles.  I am still debating rebuilding the old one, or just plan to get a new one if this one fails, but since it took 12 years and 162,000 miles for the first one to fail, I'm probably safe.

Yes, both of mine are in.

On my coach with the DD, I have that fuse block, but unfortunately I don't have any schematics that show where the circuits go, they just show the fuse block.

I have been running my generator for the last 700 miles and it is working.  I just want to make clear the alternator I ordered is the exact duplicate of my alternator.  I am expecting it to work fine, although I am a bit worried as to all the bad comments about replacing, although I also read that a lot of the complaints and problems come from replacing with a new one that is not a duplicate of the original.  I'll let you all know when I get it done.

Update, I talked to a rebuild shop here in Oklahoma City, and they actually had a rebuilt for $500, and said they could order the new replacement for $850.  I called Leece Neville which is now Prestolite and they confirmed the new part number is an exact replacement for the one I have.  Then, thank you Guillermo, I called AJ Electric and they had a brand new exact replacement for mine, same part number for $485!!!  And am second day shipping to me.  I am going to try to limp to Atlanta where I will have plenty of time to replace it, but if something goes awry on the way I will have it with me.  Thank you everyone for the help.  I will then have my bad one rebuilt and carry it as a spare.  I will followup in a couple weeks.

Yes, that is what I keep hearing, but if an exact replacement??

I guess after 12+ years and 161,500 miles it was a good run.  But yesterday I got a beep and a message "low voltage", managed to get the generator started right away, and was able to proceed to Oklahoma City, our destination for the night.  I know this has been discussed before, but I have found a rebuild/alternator shop that may even have my exact Leece Neville 200 amp alternator.  I'd appreciate any input.  If I can get the exact model, it would be quicker and easier to just replace and then later have the original one rebuilt, or should I get it rebuilt period.  And is there any reason I can't drive it this way all the way to the Atlanta area where we will be for nearly a month and have the luxury of time to deal with it.  Looks like I could get the alternator out myself although it does look like a bit of a job, this is on a DD Series 60.  All opinions are welcome.  Thanks in advance.

No I didn't use a relay, there wasn't one on it to begin with.  I just put on a couple connectors so if I have to replace the pump I can easily unhook the wires.  The pressure switch and the pump for that matter are prone to failure or clogging being in the weather, dust, rain, etc.  Moving it inside a compartment was the best thing I ever did.

When I moved our air pump inside a bay compartment from where it was originally mounted above our drive axle, I also mounted a switch by the driver's seat to turn the pump on or off.  I simply ran a wire up from the FRB into the side console at the driver's seat and mounted a switch.  I have the Valid also and only the pressure switch turns the pump on and off, it is independent from the leveling system.  On our coach when it is cold outside under 35df, our pump runs often, so the switch makes it easy to just turn off rather than go outside and pull the resettable breaker in the FRB.  Very simple project.  Hopefully someday I will finally find the leak that must open up only when it is cold.

It just snaps off, but I doubt your problem is the panel connection if only the bottom doesn't respond.  If you can wait until Monday call M&M, they are the experts on the system.

I would call M&M and ask them.

Like Paul says, check the modules in the bedroom closet, and if that doesn't do it, completely power down the c coach including the batteries for a few minutes and see if that resets it.

Mine not only had Velcro, Monaco also added a few dollops of silicone making it tough to get off, but doable.