willbo777

Yes, you are right I have found anything between $200 all the way up to over $500!

Thanks, I wonder if the Detroit is the same?

Have any of you with a DD installed a Denso starter?  I have found 2 different part numbers that they list for a Detroit, and have contacted them for more info but haven't received anything yet.  Even the DD service center hasn't been able to come up with anything.  Any help would be appreciated.

I agree I miss the flying, but a lot of the rest not so much.

On 12/7/2021 at 10:27 AM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

Berry at Josam recommends them.

That's where we got ours.

3 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I'll caution everyone about the fuel fill on the other side, it can spill disaster.  If the cap is loose, it can leak, and if it's off fuel will come out as fast as you put it in the other side.  It's been done before.  Walk away and wow no telling how much you could spill.   They really don't like spills either.  A big spill could even land you in trouble with EPA, and those are serious people, no humor at all.   Semis have separate tanks right & left, they can fill from both sides at the same time.

 

Are you saying watch out for the fuel cap to leak if you tilt while fueling, then why doesn't it leak going down the road, sloshing around as it does?  I tilt and have been tilting for a long time, like someone else mentioned I don't do it if I only have a few miles to the next campsite.  Never had a problem.  Can't understand why it isn't good to put a few more gallons in your tank no matter how big it is to begin with.  Means more miles until the next fill, and especially useful if it gets into another state where diesel is a lot cheaper.  My two cents.

Just paid $2.969 at the T/A in Tampa near Lazy Days, pump price $3.729, very nice discount, saved over $75 on one fill!

Following this.  One of my projects for this winter in Florida is to install a See Level system with 2 monitors.

5 minutes ago, FishAR said:

 

My wife is going to go nutty watching those different tire pressures cycle through that monitor as she watches it for me. She's used to just having to watch the 4 fifth wheel tires cycle through. I think I'll draw her a picture of the motorhome and silverado with the different axle pressures she can refer to until she gets the hang of it.

That's why they have alarms:-)

Looks good, but won't it fill up with water and dirt from the tire?

6 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

My only thought on why Monaco didn’t originally mount it in the fuel bay (diesel and propane) could have been in the unlikely event that the propane tank had some sort of leak and the compressor kicked in and caused a potential ignition point. I do realize that propane is heavier that air but one never knows all of the conditions that might cause a problem!
 Personally I think it should be mounted in the heated water bay with the Aqua Hot. I would think it could be easily made removable with a quick disconnect air coupling and a plug for the power supply. 
 

 

     JMO

That's exactly where I moved ours.

44 minutes ago, Larry Laursen said:

I have used the RV Sani con on my unit for 16 years with very few problems.  I have pumped 200 feet.  I also have another pump that I used at my house in MI.  They are simple and connect toe 12 volt dc.

Ditto!

Have you checked the connections to it?  Should be a coax going to it.  Also, at least in our coach, up under the dash accessible through a panel in the top of the dash is the Aladdin switch box, check it to be sure the coax is plugged in there.

2 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

My Aladdin must be different from yours. Here is my main page. 
 

Yes yours is different.  I'm surprised that your 08 doesn't have the same one as I do.

Where the writing, "shore power selected" is, is where the messages appear when something is wrong.

5 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

Lots of confusing advice. We have a 2008 Dynasty. The switch the op has that is burnt is not a transfer switch. It is a priority switch that prevents the rear ac and dryer  to run at the same time depending on the power source. The transfer switch is in the basement. I do see any choices in the Alladin for changing  electrical settings. The 08 Dynasty uses a different Alladin.pge 110 of the owners manual states there is an automatic  Appliaance selector  for the washer/dryer and the rear air. I certainly agree that many times electrical  problems are caused by the cg power pedestal 

I think there are two different discussions going on in this thread, one the load shedding, and the other the surge guard and transfer switch.  I didn't think anyone was confusing the two, but maybe they are.

 

 

 

12 hours ago, Pduggs said:

I’ve never seen this on my Aladdin. How do you access this information?

If you go to the electrical page it is there if there is a problem.  I often watch the electrical page as my wife hooks up and turns on the electric at a campsite.  That transfer and protection switch has saved us several times when the campground had a problem.

14 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Bill,

Thanks for that important bit of information. I am a newbie to the Aladdin System. Just starting to learn more about it as I am looking at newer coaches.

Is the Aladdin System also part of the Multiplex System?

No completely different, it has electrical page, engine page, fluids page, camera page, trip statistic and fuel mileage page, time.  You toggle through with a joy stick and read it on your monitor, we have one at the driver's seat and one in the bedroom, and a small tank readout at the plumbing bay.

22 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul, the rear AC/Heat Pump will not run without a good working Intellitec Power Transfer Switch in place or one of the other options mentioned earlier.

If you don't have a remote display for the Surge Guard Power Transfer Switch how do you know if and when the unit sensed bad power and specifically what condition caused it to sever power such as an error code or a PE (previous error code)?

That's the beauty of the Progressive Industries EMS HW-50C device is that it has either a digital display on the device itself or it can come with a remote display that tells you exactly what is going on with the quality of your shore power.

That transfer switch shows its readout on the Aladdin screen.  I have the same transfer switch and it shows anything that is bad with the power and will not connect.

• Multi-mode surge suppression (fuse protected)
• Low (<95V) and High (>132V) Voltage
• Mis-wired pedestal
• Open neutral
• Open ground
• Reverse polarity
• High and low frequency

Not to be a complete naysayer, but when my original alternator quit at 165,000 miles, I bought a replacement from AJ Electric.  It was supposedly a brand new exact replacement Leece Neville, it lasted 6000 miles.  Seems he builds the alternators in his shop with parts he gets from where? AJ Electric replaced the alternator under warranty, and told me I must have problem with my coach, couldn't be the alternator.  I checked my coach over and over, there were no problems nor any changes, I checked connections, even to the point of replacing batteries that still checked out fine, but were getting older.  That alternator lasted 2000 miles and quit.  I don't particularly think that is a good record.  I have since replaced the Leece Neville with a Delco 28si and could not be happier.  This alternator has been in service for about 8000+ miles and has been perfect, also the 28si is smaller and lighter and after replacing the alternator ourselves numerous times it was very welcome.  Parts are readily available.  Just my personal experience, take it or leave it.

You don't say which model you have but for the 2100XC, here are the winterization instructions:

Splendide Winterization.pdf

2 hours ago, woodylmiller said:

 

I have air only with my Valid system, no jacks.  From time to time while parked I have to relevel after the Valid "brain" goes to sleep.  But I wait till daylight hours, run the engine long enough for the low air alarm to stop and then hit the auto level button and shut down.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

I have a Valid system as well although I also have hydraulic jacks which I seldom use.  Your statement is confusing me.  When I level I hit Auto, and when the light goes from steady to blink  I shut off the coach.  It is still blinking after the engine is stopped and every 2 hours it wakes up and checks level, and if needed relevels.  After some time if it needs air to relevel the aux pump comes on.  I don't understand "goes to sleep"?  And doesn't your aux pump work?  I never start the coach to air up.  Just curious.

Or you could call M&M Electronics 419-965-2662.

The coach doesn't have the tendency to flex and possibly impede the slides at ride height.  Even if level especially with jacks the chassis could be twisted.  This subject has been coming up for years, Monaco built the coach at ride height, says in the manual to move the slides at ride height, and that's what I do.  It's your coach so obviously you can do it anyway you want.

This isn't a great pic, but it's all I have.

True enough, but our's runs for 15-30 seconds, hardly enough to get hot, and it is in the same compartment as the AquaHot which gets a lot hotter.

You can get DOT air line and connectors at NAPA.  Got the pump on Amazon.