willbo777

22 minutes ago, Bill R said:

My understanding of how ventless dryers work, is they have a condensing unit that then drain the condensed vapors.  Just got back from Spain and this is what they had in the apartment.  Can't imagine venting hot vapors into the coach.

The venting goes outside.

I ran with Dyna-beads for years with no problems.  I never went to the trouble of trying to use them again with tire changes, so last year I went to Balance Masters with Barry's blessing.  Maybe it's my imagination, but both I and my wife think the ride is a tad smoother with Balance Masters all the way around.

Talin RV/Chris Throgmartin work on Girard.

Could be as simple as the right rear ride height valve stuck or frozen or bad.  The gauges show full air pressure on both systems.

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

His problem is with BOTH pump and city.  

https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/
 

Sorry, missed that pertinent info.

 

4 hours ago, ktloah said:

Hey Willbo, where would I find this plastic check valve?

Mine is just after the hose reel, you can see it in Tom's picture.  I am still voting that that is your problem.  As you can see the diagram it would affect city water but not your pump.  I have gotten to the point where I can replace it in under 3 minutes with no tools.  

Make sure your check valve is okay.  It gets jammed and closes off the flow of city water, as well as causes pressurized water to run out the end of you hose.  I replace mine several times a year, it is just a cheap plastic check valve.

Sounds to me that the left side ride height valve is stuck or in need of replacement, I have replaced all of mine over the years.

I got that light for our 2007 Nav from Alliance some time ago, although it is now Lazy Days.  Maybe try them?

You'd have to contact Ernie for current price info.

ernietex=yahoo.com@groups.io

He is also on Facebook.  

817) 475-3991

We went with engineered wood floors glued down by Ernie Ekberg, very, very pleased.  Would do it again in a heartbeat.

12 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

Thank Monaco for the stupidity of a flat bottom tank,  my 06 Winnie gasser, I think, had a slightly sloped bottom running to the center dump.  

I installed a See Level system some time ago and have had nothing but problems with the black tank sensor not reading correctly, in fact at this point I have 3 sensors on my black tank.  The problem is 2 of them will only read down to 75% and then work properly to 100%.  So on continuing to address this I installed the 3rd sensor on the opposite side of the tank away from the plumbing bay.  My tank is 3 inches shorter on that side and the bottom of my black and gray tank which sits on top of my water tank both have sloping bottoms.  Since the new location is right below the toilet I have, with some degree of success, put a pressure washer wand with a 90 sprayer on and cleaned the side of the tank.  It worked!  But it goes back to reading too high if I don't use the in tank sprayer every dump.  I am going to pressure wash it again soon and spend even more time with it.  I have accepted with the slanted bottom the sensor reads zero until I fill up the slant, approximately one third of the tank's volume.

6 hours ago, Mike H said:

We were at Parkesdale Farm Market a couple of weeks ago and got a little sticker shock.  Their milkshakes have gone from $2.50 in 2021 to $2.75 last year to $4.50 this year.

And worth every penny:-)

9 minutes ago, ph1386 said:

Yes it’s a smart wheel. Can you explain what clock spring is and where it is?

It is under your steering wheel.

If you have a smart wheel it could be your clock spring.  That's what happened to us.

I have 4 Lifeline 4D's as my house batteries.  I have replaced them one time in the 15 years we have full timed in the coach.

We installed a 2 burner Wolf stove top in our coach, very happy!

2 hours ago, klcdenver said:

I like dealing with this place. Cannot comment on your diagnostics thou.

AJ-Electric

5942 Georgia Rd

Franklin Nc 28734
Phone: 828-369-0118

Sales@AJ-ELEC.com

AJ.ELEC.SALES@gmai

I don't want to sound real negative, but I will share my experience.  My original alternator, Leece Neville crapped out at about 165,000 miles.  I bought a brand new, exactly the same model from AJ, installed it and it lasted less than 2500 miles, since I was within driving distance I took it back to AJ, he tested it and confirmed it burnt up.  Although he replaced it under warranty, he insinuated there had to be something wrong with my coach's electrical system.  I asked why had the first one lasted so long then, no answer.  The second brand new replacement lasted 4500 miles.  I then installed a brand new Delco 28si that has been bulletproof for over 20,000 miles.  Come to find out his "brand new" Leece Nevilles are built by him at his shop in NC.  Just my experience, take it for what's it worth.

My DD Series 60 has a 16# cap on it.  I would think you could get it most places like NAPA, etc.

I believe NW RV has them.

MIne drops to 4th as well, and I like it, of course after putting over 180,000 miles on it, I'm pretty used to it.  And it will only downshift if at a proper rpm for the gear.

I have a M&G braking system that uses that fitting on the back of our rig.

Ditto on Rudy, the best!

The handle is difficult to move, but it has to be pulled to its extreme travel for it to release the tray.  I thought ours didn't work either, try pulling harder and see if it won't move.  On our coach the fuse is in the rear run bay.

I first replaced the original pump with a Firestone and now more recently with a Viair.  I also moved the pump inside a basement to get it out of the weather, the Viair is more powerful so only runs for maybe 15-20 seconds when it does, and is quieter than the Firestone or OEM.  Although I wouldn't mind if it was even quieter.