Pduggs

Won’t the plastic ties melt?

What’s up with the white plastic zip ties and split rubber hose sleeve in second picture?

Does anyone know if the fluorescent light ballasts give up EMF or electrical interference when the light is disconnected from electricity? My thought is to cut the electrical wires above the fluorescent fixture and splice direct to LED strip lights. Thus leaving the fluorescent fixture in place.

I had an issue with my puck lights and called M&M RV Electronics for help. I believe it was Mike I spoke with and he asked me if I had the fluorescent lights still in the coach, which I did. He said replace them as they can cause interference with the Intellitec system. So, the switch to led lights makes sense in more ways than one.

Exactly what I did a few years ago. The white thread had come loose. I removed all four toppers and took them to a boat canvas shop. They used black thread, which they claimed was stronger than white, since white thread is bleached. I noticed the topper had fabric rolled up and not exposed to the elements. So I turned them around. If you have to remove the topper, this is the tool you’ll need to prevent the roller spring from unraveling.

Can you hear the motor running? If so, it’s likely the motor is shot. Plastic gear can break. Easy to replace and cheap. Do a search. Lots of threads on it. It could also be the module that sits close to the motor. Check for power coming in and out of the module. If no or little power coming out, it may need replacing. Its easy to replace but relatively costly. There is also an inline fuse behind the switch at the door. Mine was inside the passenger armrest Make sure while your under there the coach is supported and keep all body parts and clothing clear of the steps.

Agreed. A couple years ago we were in a SP on the Michigan lakeshore of Lake Michigan across from Milwaukee. I picked up several Green Bay stations with the batwing. That’s a distance of about 100 miles as the crow flies. Granted there are no obstructions, but I thought that was pretty amazing.

I love my motorized batwing, if only I could get it to raise and rotate as it once did. It worked extremely well and still does, even though I have to get on the roof to raise it manually. I’ve had it apart several times and will continue to use it.

We’ve decided to keep the Dynasty and do some interior redecorating. Thanks to all who responded.

I know we’re biased toward our Monaco coach’s. I never intended to trade, but the DW has started voicing a desire for a newer coach. Hesitant is a good word to describe my feelings. I know my Monaco is good and we’re preparing to winter in southern CA from MI. I have no concerns it will make it there and back without incident. I have to say I was impressed with the 2016 Eagle we looked at. It was beautiful inside and looked to be high quality throughout. I noticed the front door was way more solid and better designed than my Monaco. The exterior finish looked very good. However the basement wasn’t as tall as mine. I didn’t spend a lot time inspected it, as we were just looking.

We’re considering that. We do like our floor plan. We are debating replacing carpet, kitchen backsplash, and valances. My fear is this won’t satisfy her. I’m leaning that way, but one does have to keep the DW happy.

We’re considering selling our beloved Dynasty and purchasing an AC Eagle or Dream 2016-2018 vintage. This is primarily due to the DW wanting a more modern decor. I’m reluctant to do this since I love my Dynasty and know her so well. Plus I’ve seen some rather negative reports on AC/Rev Group quality. We really like the full wall slide, bath and a half, and decor of the AC. I’d like to keep doing the full time life style and need the DW happy to do so. Has anyone else considered buying an AC and have any thoughts on quality?

Speedco.

I can see what looks like grease in the slot above brake pads. Is that supposed to be there?

Doing a chassis inspection this morning I noticed this. Looks like grease on hubs and brakes. I popped the hubcaps and they were clean on the backside. Oil level in window was okay, but a little low on DS. No evidence of grease on chrome wheels. If I need to get seals replaced, where would you take the coach to get this work done and what is the likely cost?

My toppers were frayed on the sides, where the thread had failed. I removed all four and took them to a boat canvas shop. Had them re-sewn with black thread, which I was told was much stronger than white. Then I installed them turned around. Much of the fabric was never exposed to the elements, as it was always on the rollers even when slides were extended. That was five years ago and still looks good.

I’ve used this for a few years now. Two coats per year. It holds up very well with no chalking and streaking. I keep it simple. Apply it with a microfiber pad on a broomstick and buff it using with another broomstick and microfiber pad. TR Industries-CW-32 Gel-Gloss RV... TR Industries-CW-32 Gel-Gloss RV Cleaner and Wax with Carnauba - 32oz. https://a.co/d/eyoLo46

She look’s pretty good for an old girl.

I used that video to replace mine a few months ago. Very helpful and fixed my intermittent problem with wipers and cruise control not working.

My AC is still not working and E7 error code still shows up on the thermostat. What I did…I tied the three hot, common, and ground wires together using the pictured connectors. Washer and dryer work. Do I need to do the same thing in the Intellitec transfer box above? See pics.

My 08 Dynasty has two layers. I just replaced mine after absentmindedly stepping on it. It was very brittle, so needed replacing anyway.

Mike replaced his.

You may recall I had all three AC units with heat pump replaced in January by a dealer in Florida. Of course the dealer couldn’t get my Aqua-hot to work properly with the new CCC2 thermostat, but thanks to Frank and Tom I got it working. Well now the rear AC unit quit working with error code E7, lost of electrical power. I know this has been discussed a number of times over the years here and on IRV2. I tried several things that were discussed, but no success. The other two units work. Things I tried…cycled the circuit breaker on and off a few times, shut power off at pedestal and coach disconnect switches, reset thermostat, ran my 10k genset for power, shut off the front two units and just turned on the rear, but still E7 code is triggered every time. Anybody have any other ideas I can utilize to try an fix this myself?

Valid points Tom. Thanks. What I really liked about the Sanicon was not cleaning out a stinky slinky and having to stow it. The only connect was screwing and unscrewing the cap on the end of it.

Thanks Ivy but I think I’ll stick with the old style dump hose for now.