Pduggs

I have used wood ramps as others have mentioned. I needed to get to my auxiliary compressor behind the genset in the center of the coach. The wood ramps didn’t seem protective enough. I went to a steel supply shop and had four round heavy steel posts cut to measurements by each of the four front airbags. I inserted them then lowered the coach down on them. This avoids any chance they could kick out.

Used the Speedco this morning near Lansing Michigan. I called this morning at 7:30 and they said no waiting. I was there about an hour later and pulled right in. I had engine oil and chassis lube done. Gave them a diagram showing all the lube zerks on my chassis, just in case. I supplied the three filters. I had them use Loves 15W40 bulk oil. Done in less than an hour. Cost $195 plus filters.

To follow up, I decided to replace two of the old pumps with the new Behler pump. I have four pumps. One is for engine pre-heat. The front two zones I replaced. I now have plenty of heat throughout the coach. After installing the new pumps, I ran the system for a day or so. I could see air bubbles in the lines, but they worked themselves out after a few hours of operation. I had to remove all four pumps to get enough room to replace the two old pumps in the back, with the Behler pumps. That meant pinching off the all the intact lines. I probably lost a half gallon of fluid during this process. Since the Behler pump has larger diameter hose connections, you have to use a reducer. This makes things difficult because the back two pumps have very short intact hose lengths, but I managed to arrange the pumps to make it work. If you do this job, take lots of pics as you go. Make sure you match up the correct electrical connections to each pump. I used all new hose clamps and gladly threw away those worthless wire clamps AH used, that are nearly impossible to remove. I checked all four check valves to see if they opened and closed freely, and they did. So, no need to replace them. The job took me about four hours to complete, while sitting on the ground. I had a hard time getting up after all that. I recommend getting up and moving around every so often.

I’m sure dogs create dust in an RV. Shoes too. I do the same with my shoes and we have no pets. We still have a lot dust though.

I had a neighbor who every spring would start his snowblower and run it between our houses until it ran out of gas. A noisy two stroke Toro, that some years seemed to run a very long time. Now that’s rude, but he was a very nice guy. We left a park near Ventura CA last winter in the early morning. I started and failed to wait for the coach to air up, as I didn’t want to irritate my neighbors. I scraped the bottom of the front cap while exiting up a slight incline. I won’t do that again.

We just got back to the coach this evening after being gone all day, I turn on all three heat pumps and all three work perfectly. I hadn’t run them in several days as it’s been too warm. Weird things happen with a motorhome.

We often leave our bathroom Fantastic fan on for hours during the day. That metal screen gets covered in dust rather quickly.

I’ve noticed the same thing Bob. Its just my wife and me. No pets. Yet dust accumulates very quickly. I use my central vac and mop the floors regularly. I clean all flat surfaces regularly and even the cabinet surfaces and walls accumulate dust.

Me too. I use Google and Waze, but I found them ineffective at times. I usually keep a hard copy. It has saved us a number of times.

I have only one thermostat. Five button CCC. All three do cool okay. I will try to operate all three with the intelligtec AH switches off. All three units must have heat pumps because all have produced heat, just not at the same time. I’ve done the thermostat reset but nothing changed. I don’t believe any of my ACs were replaced, but I’m not certain. I bought the coach from the original owner who had it ten years. He never indicated any were replaced. I’ll check the dip switches.

On my thermostat I have all three units set for heat pump. None will work with it set this way. If I shut off the rear AC (zone 3) the front two ACs run and heat well. I do have the AH buttons in the galley on.

Yeah I thought the dryer might effect this. So I shut it off along with the washer, but nothing changed.

Since my AH zone one stopped working, I started using my heat pumps to warm the front of the coach. I’ve owned the coach nearly four years and haven’t ever used the heat pumps before now. If I turn on all three heat pumps while on 50 amp shore power, none of them start up. If I turn off the bedroom AC unit at the thermostat, the front two start and work well. I can only use the bedroom heat pump if the front two are off. Is this some kind of snafu?

I don’t think I’ve tried it with the slides in. I haven’t changed the fluid. Likely original fluid with some added over time. It’s dark in color. I believe I read Aqua-Hot doesn’t recommend replacing the fluid unless it’s contaminated or lost it’s effectiveness. I did check it with a 3-1 refractometer and it was within spec.

Thanks so much!

I checked for the nipples you speak off on the backside of my heat exchanger. See pictures. They don’t appear to be on mine. I’ll bleed the check valve and if that doesn’t work I’ll bleed the return hose at the heat exchanger. Do you know which hose is the return?

Thanks. I’ll give that a try.

I think my AH might have a different arrangement. Here’s a picture of it.

We have driven about 500 miles since this issue began, without anything changing. A drive to Florida via the Carolinas might do it though. We will be in the Tampa area most of the winter, with 30 days over by Jupiter.

That’s a good idea. Thanks. Do you know the pressure of the fluid?

In Michigan now. Heading for Florida in a month.

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks.

Thanks for your response. The pump outlet hose is the vertical hose running from the pump to the check valve. This hose is not hot, nor is the hose after the check valve. The hose between the pump and check valve IS hot on the other two house heating zones, as are the hoses after the check valve. This is why I didn’t suspect the check valve. But as others have stated, it’s easy to replace that valve or bypass it just to make sure. Regarding dealers, I’ve not had a good experience with them, not that I’ve used that many. If anyone knows a good AH shop or technician, please let me know. Thanks for your response. I will replace the check valve. When I swapped pumps I carefully examined the pump inlet and outlet. Both were clean. I must have a blockage somewhere. The check valve is the most likely culprit.

My front zone isn’t working, but all the others are and I still have unlimited hot water.

That’s a good idea. The thing is the hose coming out of the circulation pump and running up to check valve is cool to the touch and soft. If it were a closed check valve, wouldn’t this hose be hot and firm?