windsorbill06

I realize this thread is 6+ months old, but I need a little budge on this exact subject matter.

My True Center died and after extensive research, I removed it from the coach.  It's sitting on the shelf in the garage.  I'm not going to repair it.  Now thinking about installing a SafeTPlus to replace it.    I already have the front and rear watts system and the rear X bars.      Coach runs great, but haven't had it out in any strong winds since the true center went bad.   I always liked the 'on the fly' centering feature that TC offered and was one of the biggest reasons I got that system many years ago.  I know henderson offers something similar to add on to the STP.  BTW, I have the TRW steering box and Craig French  and I got that dialed in a few years ago.     Front tire blow out is always a concern, again another "Pro" on my "pro/con" list.  What say You?   should I bit the bullet?

joe,

that sealant that vito recommends is good stuff.  I've used it.  But it takes nearly 3 weeks to fully cure, so be aware.

One thing I did and really liked, but it seems trivial, was to do a saw cut from the middle of the door opening straight back to the back of the garage.  I back my coach in, so I can see the saw cut in the back up monitor.  I line up the trailer hitch (or tow bar) with that line, and coach is centered perfectly inside the door opening and makes lining up/ backing in a breeze.

Moe,

It has a lot to do with your jurisdiction.  Mine didn't even get through plan check.  You might be fine, or maybe the inspector will call you on it.   I ended up putting a flat smooth floor, no slope.  It's easy to roll around under the coach with a creeper,  and I just pull coach out a few times a year and give it a good wash down.  Even if I had floor drains, I would not be washing inside.

I've always dreamed of a pit, but that's another story.

What ever you end up doing, I'd seal the concrete.  I ended up doing an epoxy finish.  

When I built my RV garage/shop back in 2007, I was going to put a floor drain in.  But when it went through the city plan check process, I had to add an oil separator outside and show them proof I had a contract with a licensed vacuum truck to service the tank on a regular basis..  They were treating the building like it was going to be a mechanic's workshop with spilled oil/diesel going down the drain.   Needless to say, I removed the drain from my plans.

Thanks.  I did see that before I posted this and it's informative.  I can't even imagine me ever getting close to the 1M cycles in my lifetime.  And as Bob said, that is misleading too. 

Since you can screw the cap on and lower/raise the black plunger housing inside the switch, I was wondering if anyone had just done some sort of 'calibrating' to the adjustable part.  I don't know if Nason did it that way or not.  I know I can put the cap on tighter that it was originally, and keep the switch closed all the time.

My nason switch at the parking brake plunger has been intermittent.  I had a new spare switch so I swapped it out and seems to have solved the issue.  The old one isn't that old, maybe a few years.

I took the old one apart on the bench and it's pretty simple.  Depending on how tight you screw down the cap, seems to be how much air pressure is needed to make the connection.   With my meter connected to the bed and black wire, I can tell when the switch does activate when I add air pressure while on the bench.  There was no debris or corrosion when I took the switch apart.

My question is has anyone adjusted the switch and keep it as a reliable spare?  When I bench tested it, the air I was using was not a controlled pressure but I consistently closed the contacts every time air was applied.
 

Paul,

Mike hughes  removed one of his couches and built a new computer work station.  He has a fireplace under it and it looks good.  I think he posted some information/pictures here on 'modifications' thread.  He's also posted at IRV2.    I saw it at Quartzsite last year in person.

Pampero,

Let me know if you didn't receive the emails I sent you yesterday.  I replied to your initial email with pictures attached.

We're looking forward to seeing what can be done.

Send me your email and I'll get what ever you need.

email  is bhoward27  at  aol dot com

On 6/10/2020 at 9:43 AM, Keamyinc said:

I have a Frontline Type 2 Tub/Shower unit in my 2002 Windsor.  A few days ago a noticed a small leak under the metal rail on one of the glass side walls.  Day by day little by little I started to apply a silicone water resistant sealant in different locations that looked suspect.  I'm on day 5 of applying the sealant and the leak is worse now than prior to starting the apply sealant.  So I'm now starting to remove some sealant as I'm thinkin I may have sealed off important drainage point within the railing itself.  Does any know the ins and outs of the drain system within the rails so that I can better troubleshoot this issue and stop the leak altogether.  I don't want to take the panel off until I know what I'm up against.  Thanks in advance.

Don

Depending on what sealant you use, some will not stick if the surface is wet.    Some assemblies don't recommend sealing the inside of the bottom track, only the outside.  This allows the water that might get under the track to go back into the shower.   Mfg's have different recommendations depending on the design, but most if not all recommend using the caulk sparingly but effectively.  Dap makes a good one that is water proof after it dries but is water clean up so easier to use.  It is also mold and mildew resistant.  Comes in different colors including clear. 

9 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

And your granddaughter was quite happy with a couple of pockets full of pebbles off the ground. Such a sweet little girl!

Thanks Ben.  She's 3 1/2 now and bosses me around.  

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

I've heard it can get warm there Bill 😅!!

Ben,

Even in Celsius,  it's hot!!🥵

I'm in the Palm Desert, CA area and it gets warm here.  I have a fully enclosed, fully insulated garage .  I just recently added a 30" 10,000 cfm circulating fan on the wall next to the RV to help move the air.  I only run the RV roof air when I'm working on the inside of it so I might run them 6 hours at a time.  I haven't had any issues.

I'm in the research stage of adding 2 mini split systems to the garage.  That project probably won't happen until next winter.

I got my 9 year old grandson a Altair Falcon.  They are about  $130 on amazon.  It's easy to fly, very forgiving.  If you let the controls go, the thing will just hover in place.  It does have propeller protectors,  but unless you want to get real aggressive with it, it's hard to crash.  It will auto take off and auto land.  You can download a free app and have video right on your phone or IPad.   

No doubt it's a beginners model, but it's great one to get started with. 

2 hours ago, David White said:

Thanks Bill, I’ll check but I’ve never seen one under my dash.  I’m assuming it handles all the alarms and my others are working.  The headlight one could be disconnected.

Yes, it's buried in the mass of wiring under the dash.  Possibly turn on one of the other chimes and track down the sound.  But like Stuart mentions, his 04 doesn't have the buzzer either.  Good luck!

David,

Not sure if your 05 has a dash annunciator  box, but mine is under the front dash.  When my headlights are on, it's a fairly rapid 'chirp'.  I've read that some have had issues with it and took the box apart and repaired a small speaker inside.  

46 minutes ago, jrtrades1 said:

For what it is worth, on my 2006 Windsor, it is a continuing issue.  I think over time everyone of those plastic spools will break.  Has anyone found a better spool that could be used, like metal or better plastic, that could be drilled or modified to use.   The other issue with us is the fold if you are not careful.  Does the MCD have this issue.   Lastly, WindsorBill, do you recall the online store where you found the spools?

Rich Cutler '06 Windsor

Sorry, no I don't recall.  It may have been NW Supply in Bend Oregon.  It's been a few years.

We're changing out all the blinds to the roll up version. No strings and a very clean look, IMO.   We're already changed out the cockpit/windshield area.  I went with AutoMotion, but there are others such as MCD.  Now getting ready to change out the rest of the coach.    Once that's done, I'll have the old ones that I'd be happy to give you.  May be a few months, however.

Tightening up the cord sounds like it will solve your problem.  The little plastic thimbles that the cord wraps around get brittle and I had a couple that cracked.  I did find them at several on line RV stores.   There are also kits to re-string the entire blind  if those strings ever break on you.