windsorbill06

Finally got the project behind me.  I've never liked reaching across the toilet room, bending down to turn on the lights.   I wanted to get the switches closer to the doorway.

My toilet room is quite small.  There is just no room to move the switch unless you put in on the wall, but it's just too close to the sink for my comfort.  Water splashing on the key pad was a big concern.   Only way to get it closer to door was to put it up higher on wall, which is fine by me.  Since Monaco put in wall blocking (similar to fire stops in stick built house), mainly to attach back splashes to wall, it took a little creativity to get the new wires to location I wanted  Had to dismantle interior upper cabinet to install the new wire runs as I didn't want anything visible.   Took about 8 hours over 3 days to get everything finished, but happy with results.  Wish I took more pictures.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Curiosity.  I looked at the sales brochure for your Windsor.  I thought you had what I call the MPX LITE.  That is a MPX that will only control or was designed to do lights, ceiling fans and the water pump.  Mine has a small control device called an IPX.  The earlier MPX LITE used a chip or were connected the the Intellitec EMS.

The MPX LITE was then used on the Camelot/Scepter until the Roadmaster chassis units went out of production when REV bought it.  We do not have the CPU or the Programmable “computer” (in industry this was called a PLC or Programmable Logic Controller and was the heart of CNC machines and could run AutoCad files).

It is my understanding that changing button functions or even adding new buttons is possible.  BUT, to do something like adding new switches to control slides or any other switched functions, including a “Master On” switch requires a stand alone CPU like the “FULL” MPX has that was standard on the 2006 Dynasty (and up) models.

Does your system have some sort of MINI CPU that is programmable but not like the full MPX?  That would be great info. I was not aware of but 2 varieties.

Please advise….a picture of your “board” would be great.

Thanks.

 

Tom, I believe your correct, but I've never heard it called the "mini".   Makes sense, though.     Mine  controls only lights and the water pump.  No shades, fans, slides or anything else.  It gets power from the intellitec EMS.     On my other thread, which I'll update, I did move the toilet room switches to another location.  Same switches, same functions, just a different location.  It was simple to extend the wires.  

While I was chatting with Paul, he said it would be 'easy' if I ever wanted to add another switch plate at some other location and program each individual switch.  Just splice in the wires and run them to the new location,  program a switch pad to the light of your choice.  Boom!  Done!    Hard part is finding the switches/switch board itself.  Maybe @pwhittle can comment on any 'mini CPU', these beast have, but I don't believe it's in my coach.   There is really nothing for me to 'back up'.  Paul did offer to re-program my individual switch plates, but as I mentioned earlier,   not real high priority right now.  

@Bill R  Glad you got that pesky non-op switch working.  I am fortunate, my multiplex has worked pretty well over the years.  I did have to replace the main board once and I'm convinced that was caused by excessive heat in the back closet where those electronics are housed.  @myrontruex  (I think it was Myron) had a great solution to ventilate that area, but got his butt chewed on IRV2 at least once when he posted about it..  But I liked the idea.  You and I could purchase a wrecked '06 and make good use of the parts off of it.

I had a great phone chat with @pwhittle  (Thank you Paul!) about multiplex system, then it moved into headlights, cameras, and I forget what all.  It's good to know both he and Frank can program these systems, if needed.  My OCD hasn't kicked in enough to send keypads to them to  reprogram each button position to make it a little more consistent and sensible to me.  But I'm tempted.      

8 minutes ago, Marine Boy said:

Thanks for the info and pics.  Would love to know the cost for the plates installed.

To get an accurate price, IMO, you need to have them quote it for you.  Some coaches have center rollers.  My rear PAX slide has 4 rollers, so I needed 4 guardian plates.  Some slides only need 2.    I installed myself and wasn't a really difficult project.  Accurate measurements are important.  They will walk you through it.

I just finished removing the lower carpeted piece in one of my cabinets.  My problem was the bottom was installed before the side walls, so the side walls were sitting on top of the carpet.  Both sides had to come out first.  A stiff putty knife and patience.   Everything was pin nailed down.

@pwhittle  I'd be interested in learning about  backing up my system as well.  Tried a PM, but looks like your box is full again.

20 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

We have a motion red light that lights the bowel, all I need at night to see the target eventhough the regular switches are right at the door. 🤣 Simple.

I hope you meant 'bowl'.    Otherwise I'm not sure how you'd do that! lol

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

totally agree to move the switch.  However, I should be very cautious.  This switch is a custom switch.  All your other MPX switches only have one pigtail, I believe.  Or if they do, then it is a “MPX IN - MPX OUT”.  This switch has a second pigtail that goes directly down to Pump switch, assuming you have one, in the wet bay.  If you do not have a remote, momentary push to start, button in the wet bay, then this is a daisy chained switch.  If you do, then the extra pigtail runs to,that switch.  When you push the remote pump switch. It is the same as pressing the “WTR PUMP” button.  The wires are soldered directly to the contacts behind that button on the PCB. So, do NOT tug or put strain on the extra pigtail.  I BELIEVE that the pigtail with the Purple wire is the MPX connection….there is a MPX loop that runs the entire length around the MH where the switch pads are.  Then a single pigtail is just a “parallel” test.  If you plugged back in the Purple wire and the key pad lights, then it is a parallel switch pad.  The pump will start from the keypad, but the remote will not work.  Best I can recall from that switch in mine was that it was a 2 wire pigtail….the 3 in yours is a bit of a mystery….but Monaco did weird things and were not consistent year to year.

As to the splice…we go down this path a few times a year.  NEC will allow “soldering” of a mechanical or crimped joint.  However, they will not allow strictly a soldered joint.  Now this is obviously low voltage.  I personally would crimp and if one has a belt and suspenders mindset, I would choose a bare, not insulated, crimped fitting (ALWAYS CRIMPED WITH A RATCHETING TOOL) and THEN solder.  Yes, it can be insulated with electrical tape or heat shrink.  

Tom,

You were right on.  The only difference is the pigtails.  The red/yellow/black wired one is the main controls for this switch.  The pigtail with the purple wire controls the momentary water pump switch in wet bay.   Thanks for the help and insight.

6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, it works for us, at least I've heard no complaints!

We have friends that recently went from a Tiffin, to a Monaco Monark, and I struggled to find the bathroom light switch in both of them!

My son's new 5ver/toy box, is that way.   Helped him with some non electrical issues.   But I couldn't find the switches for interior lights just so I could see.  Turns out, it's on the display touch pad on the wall or on his IPad.  

27 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

thanks Ben.

So you also have to reach across the room to turn on the lights when you walk in..  But yours are up higher.  We've got to bend over to see the switches that are mounted in the lower cabinet (basically where your night light is).  Like I said, perfect when your on the toilet, but that's it!

I'm struggling with the best location for the pad.  That room is pretty small, I'd like to put it on the wall next to the sink, but I'm concerned about water splashing on it.    Maybe up high?

Anybody post some pictures of your switch location in that toilet room?

I could put it on the wall, directly outside the door- in the hall.  Not too convenient if you're using the toilet and forgot to turn on the water pump, however. 

43 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Bill, what's a 'COS light' ?

Ben,

I believe it's short for 'cosmetic'.   It controls the wall light fixture above the sink.  Other bath sink has the same label.   

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

totally agree to move the switch.  However, I should be very cautious.  This switch is a custom switch.  All your other MPX switches only have one pigtail, I believe.  Or if they do, then it is a “MPX IN - MPX OUT”.  This switch has a second pigtail that goes directly down to Pump switch, assuming you have one, in the wet bay.  If you do not have a remote, momentary push to start, button in the wet bay, then this is a daisy chained switch.  If you do, then the extra pigtail runs to,that switch.  When you push the remote pump switch. It is the same as pressing the “WTR PUMP” button.  The wires are soldered directly to the contacts behind that button on the PCB. So, do NOT tug or put strain on the extra pigtail.  I BELIEVE that the pigtail with the Purple wire is the MPX connection….there is a MPX loop that runs the entire length around the MH where the switch pads are.  Then a single pigtail is just a “parallel” test.  If you plugged back in the Purple wire and the key pad lights, then it is a parallel switch pad.  The pump will start from the keypad, but the remote will not work.  Best I can recall from that switch in mine was that it was a 2 wire pigtail….the 3 in yours is a bit of a mystery….but Monaco did weird things and were not consistent year to year.

As to the splice…we go down this path a few times a year.  NEC will allow “soldering” of a mechanical or crimped joint.  However, they will not allow strictly a soldered joint.  Now this is obviously low voltage.  I personally would crimp and if one has a belt and suspenders mindset, I would choose a bare, not insulated, crimped fitting (ALWAYS CRIMPED WITH A RATCHETING TOOL) and THEN solder.  Yes, it can be insulated with electrical tape or heat shrink.  

Tom,

I do have the water pump switch in the wet bay.  Momentary, ON/OFF.    All the others are the multiplex style. 

I didn't mention, I'm only talking about 2-3' of added wire.

Monaco installed these Multiplex switches in my toilet room cabinet.   Just not the best place for convenience and wrong orientation.

Problem is, my wires inside cabinet are too short to just move the switch to a better location.   Can I just splice in longer wires, use new molex connector, or would this cause issues with the multiplex system?

I know that the switches just send a signal back to the control box, but I don't know enough about the system to just jump in, thus the question.

Take that clear plastic piece down to a glass shop that does shower door enclosures.  Any good shop will have several different profiles and you can match it up.

I just did that on a shower in our house.

Lanny

I saw  your IRV2 post as well.  OneExtreme, as mentioned above, is really good and not too far from you.  I helped a friend take his coach and also helped him pick it up from that place, so I saw before and after.  His final product (front and rear caps and minor touch up all around)  was outstanding, but not cheap.   It took forever to get an appointment, however.  They had his coach a long time, 4 or 5  weeks, as I recall, so be sure you know that going in.      

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I hope, if you meant to meet code as well as normal safety issues, that you put in a CB or a disconnect between the ATS and the Inverter. Your post didn't say that and maybe you did, but if not, then a subpanel or box with a single 50 Amp breaker should be installed per NEC and RVIA.

Just curious....

your right.  I didn't convey that.  I was trying to point out that the power goes towards the inverter, not the original  CB panel.

9 hours ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

I agree.  So what route did you take to get “50A coming in” (to the Victron)?

Since my coach already had 50 amp running from the shore power cord to the transfer switch, that part was pretty easy.  My ATS is right next to my inverter location.    I think I used less than 3' of wire from ATS to victron.   Then,  I re-used the existing wire that Monaco ran from the ATS to the main circuit breaker panel in the back closet, just moved it from the ATS to the output of the Victron.  The wire was long enough.

There was other very considerable wiring needs to get everything working properly.  It's quite involved and I'm happy to share with you what I did in more detail.  I did the work by myself so not having a 'go-fer', increased the time considerably.  Before I even started this, a victron dealer gave me a $12,500 quote with a 10% 'cushion' to do what I did and that did not include the Victron components.     I have a little over 100 hours into this project, which included installation of the CerboGX and the display screen in the hallway.  

John,

I'm with Bill R and just create your own route.  When Monaco wired these things, they weren't thinking about you and me pulling wire to upgrade.

I did upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II about a year ago, as well, but I already had 50 amps coming in.   Quite a job rewiring everything, but pretty cool technology now that it's done.

Here's something I came across on facebook.  The guy had plumbed it into his coach with a snap disc to turn it off and on.  IMO, way too expensive to just cool an inverter area, but an interesting concept.  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TDXWC4Q/?coliid=IA9GN1W4F4IU7&colid=3KUASJ0BUDMPD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im

1 hour ago, allphase8 said:

Just got the parts to run the 10G wire today.

A chore forr after the rain quits in the next couple of days here in sunny So Cal.

I’m in palm desert.   No rain here. 

2 hours ago, allphase8 said:

Still trips OEM circuit breaker if run more than a couple of minutes.

 

So you got the 10 ga wire run, but you’re using the oem breaker?

that  OEM breaker is only rated for 15-20 amps.   It was designed to protect the 12 ga wire.  

31 minutes ago, allphase8 said:

That is the way I would like to do it as the New Sanicon is already wired through the old switch to the switch box on the new sanicon.

Can you provide more detailed instructions on how to do this?

My electrical abilities while limited are not nonexistent.

Is it a matter of changing the VF4-1511 relay that is currently there with a different relay? 

If so is there a part number for a replacement relay.

Thanks

Ron

 

Harry just did a write up specifically on  how to do this.   He'll come along and probably comment.

Harry, I don't care what you say, you have ESP!

1 hour ago, allphase8 said:

Thanks for everyones thoughts and suggestions.

Purchased the items to run a 10a power and ground to the new Sanicon.  Will totally bypass the existing wiring to the old Sanicon.

Ron

Ron,

Are you planning on using the OEM switch or the new one that comes with the pump?  Your original switch isn't rated at 30 amps.

8 minutes ago, allphase8 said:

Got this on Amazon for the larger hose on for the Sanicon 600 i recently installed.

Went through several hoses on the old Sanicon.  It looks like it will work to protect the hose.

https://a.co/d/1qN9cjP

Ron 

Ron,

thanks for that link.  I think that is exactly what I had heard about.  I'm just finishing up a pretty extensive inverter swap, lithium installation and all new solar project.  Pulling new #10's for the sanicon should be quick and easy. (famous last words!)  May even do #8's if I have that laying around.

I have read about some putting a nylon sleeve over the sanicon hose to help protect it from rubbing and eventually leaking.  Anyone do this, does it work,  and what source is the sleeve?