windsorbill06
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Posts posted by windsorbill06
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I've used this on headlights of several of our cars, bikes, quads, and rzr's. I would think it would work on tail lights as well.
If the tail lights are frosting up because of moisture getting inside the housing, you'll likely have to replace the entire fixture.
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The sound comes from this annunciator under your dash. Low air, parking brake, and jacks, whatever, all sound from here. Sometimes really hard to find it in the bundle/mass of wiring.
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I'd also check your pressure cap rating. My coach came with a 16#, as I recall. Many have dropped it down to 9, or even 7.
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30 minutes ago, saflyer said:
I replace that switch years ago. Didn’t help. I know there was a thread on some forum describing a completely different fix that was supposed to do the job but can’t find it.
The only different fix that I'm familiar with, was an article that Bob Nodine wrote up using the same wire harness, and a relay. I had replaced my nason switch 3 times, every couple of years. Finally did the 'Nodine fix' about 8 years ago and it's been fine ever since.
I see the article in the downloads section
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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:
Well, fill us in Bill!
'WATT'S' it called. (pun intended)?
The front watts was the only one I was interested in, but, I have air levelling.
According to mike's web site, it is available for your coach. I'm not sure if mine was one of the first or not. It's been several years and pre-covid.
https://www.monacowatts.com/products.htm
But I did get to see how each component improved the ride, vs putting them all on at once.
FWIW, Mike was able to put cross bracing on the front of his coach. He would have to elaborate, but I don't think he modified anything. I don't know of any other coach that can do that.
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I'm a little late, but I did the blue ox true center long before the watts was marketed. I liked it, especially with the adjustable centering feature. But coach still wandered somewhat. So I tried the rear X bars from Mike Hughes (monacowatts). That was a great improvement from the wandering, but I could still feel it with semi's or strong xwinds.
Then my Blue Ox solenoid failed and I couldn't adjust it on the go. Took it off and found all kinds or corrosion inside the 'weather sealed' box. Called blue ox, 'discontinued', they told me and no parts available. So I took entire thing off and left it on garage shelf.
Took coach on a trip and I was surprised that the rear X bars kept it steady without the true center. Still a little wandering but no different than with the true center.
Next I installed the rear watts link. WOW! That was a noticeable improvement. So I inquired about the front Watts, but was told they don't make a front watts with an 'air only' leveling coach.
So decided to live with what I had and drove quite a bit. Then about a year later, at Quartzsite pre-covid, Mike Hughes was there and we talked about the front watts. He climbed under my coach and said he had something that would work. Great! We installed it right there. It brought the handling and lack of wondering to a new level.
Ride home was wonderful. 25 knot gusty x/winds and trucks were not noticeable.
That was several years ago. If someone was considering this, I do it in steps like I did, and see where your 'acceptable' level is.
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Interesting that they had you replace the display panel as well. I guess I haven't heard of those failing. Was that done at same time the EMS board was replaced, or later on?
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Jim,
I'd trust your Victron but they do need to be calibrated periodically. Takes about 5 minutes. I did mine the other day, first time in 5 years.
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Dennis,
On my 06 windsor, the parking brake must be set. It gets it's signal through the Nason switch. Doesn't matter if my key is on or off.
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On 9/27/2023 at 7:35 AM, Ernie Ekberg said:
The rollers are embedded in the floor on the curb side. The rollers on the street side are attached to the slide. Ernie Ekberg flooring emeritus
I must have a unicorn, or maybe it's floorplan specific. My curb side living room has a couple of rollers mounted on coach frame (maybe 3, I'd have to verify) PLUS 1 is mounted on the slide.
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13 minutes ago, JeffM31 said:
My passenger side has no damage at all. Ordered plates for that side too to prevent any damage. I just bought this 3 or so months ago and the bad slide I forgot to beat on underneath. The previous owner put 1/16” steel plate under the carpet and it felt fine when I inspected it. Oh well my fault. Taking care of it now.
Looks awesome 👏🏻. Yes plates on order
I wonder how the guardian plates will attach that are covering the epoxy? Usually they are held in place with the SS rivets. I'd bring that up with Talin when ordering.
17 minutes ago, JeffM31 said:My passenger side has no damage at all. Ordered plates for that side too to prevent any damage. I just bought this 3 or so months ago and the bad slide I forgot to beat on underneath. The previous owner put 1/16” steel plate under the carpet and it felt fine when I inspected it. Oh well my fault. Taking care of it now.
Looks awesome 👏🏻. Yes plates on order
Maybe this pic is better. The vinyl is here. I just poured over it.
Yea, I see its the backside of the white plastic now. . When I first glanced at it, it looked like plywood.
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Creative. Hope it holds up for years .
How did you keep the epoxy from sticking to the plywood you have screwed to the underside of the slide?
I'd still consider guardian plates all around.
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12 minutes ago, oregondarrell said:
Not able to locate replacement locking drawer slides for our 2004 Beaver.
Does anyone know who still stocks the Monaco drawer slides ?
TIA
like these?
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One nice thing about most new faucets including delta, Price Pfister, and Moen, is they will guarantee even the cartridge and send you a new one for free should it start leaking. Sand and hard water is the biggest cause of failures/leaks. The catch is you have to contact the mfg, and I wouldn't mention anything about an RV.
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On 9/10/2023 at 6:50 AM, deputylynch said:
I appreciate everybody's input but in my original posting I stated I do not want to go with a box extension or surface mount. I want to keep it flush and looking original.
Is the specialized plug your talking about, USB outlets?
You could put back the original plug, and daisy chain a new romex over to an area that has the depth to allow for the deeper box (maybe side of cabinet, as an example). Both would be flush mounted/original and you'd still have several outlets for different uses.
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Lenny,
Having the old screen will make things so much easier. You'll probably have to use it as a template.
Try these guys. Heard good things about them, but never personally used them.
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27 minutes ago, Tony G. said:
Yes I pulled the door trim back but there are no exposed screws holding the trim down
gently pry it off. There may be double sided tape, silicone, or who know what. I start at the top, with the smaller trim piece that butts to the ceiling. Once you pry the long piece away from the wall, you need to work it up as it's usually between the dash, wall and windshield gasket pretty tight.. Slow and steady. it is somewhat flexible, but I wouldn't bend it too much. When you put it back together, there is no reason to use anything but the screws--at least I never did.
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Dennis,
I have the clear lexan handles on the dash, but I do have something similar to what you have on the right side of my door as I EXIT. It was loose and getting scratched up pretty badly. I took it off and pre-drilled and tapped for set screws. You can see them in first picture as allen heads. Then I had the entire handle powder coated. I grab that handle every time I exit the coach and it's held up for years.
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1 hour ago, Tony G. said:
Yes, I took the screws out that are underneath the caps. But the trim is still held on firmly
This is the trim attached to th pillar between the door (on the right in the picture) and the window. I am guessing it hides whatever the front cap attaches to.
did you already take the trim around the door off? With the screw buttons showing in the last picture? Then the hard plastic cover will be fully visible. There may be more screws in the hard plastic, under the door trim.
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On 9/4/2023 at 2:04 PM, Mike H said:
Tom, My problem our septic tank is on the other side of our house and it would take probably 200 ft of line to get to it. At a slope of 1/4" per foot the tank would need to be 50 ft deep to drain properly. Our back yard is only about 15-20 ft away from where the sewer hose would attach to the coach. A 200-250 gal barrel is probably going to be the simplest solution and I think I might be able to find someone that could put that in without any permitting.
Mike,
a tank 200' away would only require 50 inches deep, not 50 feet. That's with 1/4" fall. Unless your tank is really shallow, I'd think that would work. I've done as little as 1/8" fall, and inspector approved that, but we had to have an engineer certify the 'as built'.
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ah, good for you. I know even mentioning this site over there will get you called out. Too bad.
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@timaz996 I'm confused? Why paste and copy the question from IRV2? Your not Colddiesel over there, I don't think??
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22 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:
My main panel is in the rear bedroom where the engine is and it got hot back there while we were traveling.
Mike,
My panel is in rear closet and it gets hot while driving. I now prop open the closet doors and I have a portable 120 v electric fan that blows air towards the circuit breaker panel.
The engine heat is hard on the electrical, especially when you have a heavy load running off of the generator.
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4 hours ago, Mike Wahl said:
I'm working on my LED lighting project and have some wires that are being difficult to get to. I'm wondering if in cabinets with the electrical wireway in the bottom have a way to remove the inner cabinet bottom. This would allow access to the electrical.
Mike, the bottoms should come out using a putty knife or similar tool. On some of mine however, the side panels are sitting on top of the bottom panels, so you have to remove at least 1 side panel first. If you have shelves in the cabinets, you'll have to remove the adjustable brackets too before the side wall panels can come out.
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Bathroom door wood swelling issues. 2008 Scepter.
in Interior & Exterior Care & Renovations
Posted
Funny. I don't have the problem down here. Actually add buckets of water inside coach to help increase humidity during most of summer.
We did have real issues however inside the house. During early summer and early fall, instead of running HVAC, we run full house evap coolers. I would have doors swell up enough to bind. Wiffy didn't like that! Ended up planing down the doors on the hinge side (don't do it on the strike side), just a little and had to re-mortise the hinges, then stain and seal. It's alot of work and our doors are 8' solid wood and very heavy.