windsorbill06
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Posts posted by windsorbill06
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Chris is right,
My Windsor (similar to the Camelot back in 2006) came from the factory with a 12ga wire run for the sanicon. That can't handle the new 600 model. The CB is in the curb side, rear run bay---see picture. I'm waiting for my sanicon to give up, and then I'm going to replace it, but I'll have to pull a new #10 wire with a new fuse. #8 is needed if it's a long run.
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Frank,
Reason I asked, could this sensor be the one to trigger the ECM in an overheat condition? It's pretty difficult to shop test it, but I suppose a person could ground the wire and drive the coach reasonably hard and see if the ECM derates.
I suppose this test would record an 'overheat condition' and that might NOT be a good thing, even though it really didn't happen.
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A question for this group.
Will the ECM reduce power to the engine when it sees an overheat condition? Or just an idiot light and gauge indication?
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3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
May be a bit costly thou running an ISL to keep the wet bay warm 😀.
I would hope he's talking about when driving down the road.
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1 hour ago, Bill R said:
Bill - I went ahead and connected both wires with ignition on but engine off, and no idiot light illuminated. I then started the engine and still no idiot light. I also checked the fan speed and it was at idle speed with wires connected. No change in fan speed when I disconnected the wires.
So this temp sensor does not go to an idiot light, and does not seem to go to the ECM for engine fan speed or engine shutdown. I am concluding again that this was installed either for a coach like @Gary Cole 2005 Diplomat that had a high temp idiot light. Or maybe for some other field test purposes. But as far as I can tell for our 2006 Windsors it is not being utilized.
I tend to agree.
Ha! Maybe we can use it as a fluid sampling port?
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I did a little more research now that I'm back home with coach, but no real answers.
I only have 1 wire connected to the sensor terminals. I know it came from Monaco this way. I grounded out that wire and I DO NOT get any idiot light on dash with engine running or not. There is no continuity between either terminal and the sensor body with engine cold. . I've never overheated. but possibly, in that scenario, it will send a signal to ECM to derate engine, IDK.
Why some have 2 wires and I have one, and some have none, is also interesting.
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Bill,
I was going to respond earlier, but been away from coach and didn't think I had any pictures with me. However, I did find a picture that might help you. Once I'm back at coach, I can give you more details.
The white horizontal wire next to the blue hose goes to the sensor in question. It's a single wire. Sensor your mentioned has 2 post, however. From there the wire goes into the wire loom running across the engine (left to right) and turns an goes forward along a frame rail with a bunch of other wires. I know this is all OEM.
If I were you, I think I'd cut those wire ties holding the bundles and see if you can find a single wire in there that's been abandoned. I could be wrong, but I think that sensor is the high temp sensor that will illuminate an idiot light on the dash. So Aladdin or gauges wouldn't be effected.
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When my nason switch failed, the 'parking brake' light on the dash (Idiot lights), was illuminated as well, even with the parking brake off.
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Monaco put 2 of the plastic drawer clips in the cup holder drawer. One to hold it open, the other to hold it closed. Mine were always either breaking or out of alignment. I took the entire assembly apart and added magnets to hold the drawer closed and opened. Now the drawer stay put, open or closed. One big improvement now is when the drawer is open, it comes out much further and when the magnet locks the drawer open, it makes the drawer MUCH more secure. My wife will set snacks or her cell phone on the shelf besides a water bottle or coffee cup.
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Bill R
Sure glad it worked out. Besides yours and mine, I saw one other 2006 Windsor that had the wrong filter. I'm sure there are others. Can't speak about non Windsor's with the ISL, however. Once you see the physical size difference, it's not surprising that the engine produces more power. Kinda like drinking a thick milkshake through a straw!
BTW, You should be getting 12++mpg now with that new filter. 😆. NOT!
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Doesn't look like you can slide the filter forward either without hitting the serpentine belt. But hard to tell, it looks like you have a little more room between filter and rear cap, to get the door shut without bumping the filter housing.
As Ben mentioned, as long as seals are tight, you should be fine, especially just getting home. Personally, I wouldn't leave the bailing wire there as a long term fix, but that's me. With a little planning, this would be a great Quartzsite project to get the new straps installed for the filter housing.
BTW, our coaches must have been built right next to each other. Your yellow air minder supply line in your picture, is stretched out about as far as it will go, exactly like mine.
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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:
That right there may be why they tried getting away with the smaller filter!
My rear cap must be deeper, as I have plenty of clearance between the filter and cap!
If you look at Harry's pictures posted above, it looks like he off set his inward some from the square tube frame. However, I don't think I could offset mine as much as it looks like his is. The filter housing would likely rub against the serpentine belt.
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Here are a few pictures of mine now. The intake hose coming down from the air intake box, directly connects to the air filter intake, no adapters. I believe warranty changed that hose out, but I can't exactly recall.
The air filter exit goes directly into the rigid pipe leading to the turbo with the rubber reducers. There are not additional supports on the Cobra, that I can see.
One thing I found, the new larger filter doesn't quite allow the hatch door to close without hitting the filter. It's minor, but you can see a little dent on the front of the filter housing. Not too sure if you can off set the filter brackets on that frame or not. You need less than 1/2".
You have the original overflow plastic tank too, I see. Keep an eye on that thing. It's old and gets brittle. I went with an aluminum tank, but they have exact replacement plastic tanks too.
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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:
Had a chance to do an autopsy on it yet?
My bay lights all have the switch on each fixture.
There are 2 fixtures on the ceiling in that closet, with integrated sliding switches. She had left them both on with the closet doors closed. We figured they were on for about 6 or 7 hours. The light fixture frames are plastic but the housing directly behind the bulb is metal. When monaco installed the fixtures using screws, they tightened them on the ceiling and the soft ceiling material molded around the fixture. I think from the fixture pressing on the ceiling, it 'pillowed' and came in contact with the metal back plate. With the extended time the lights were on, the ceiling material couldn't handle that heat. If you don't have LED bulbs in there, I'd suggest considering it. Like I mentioned, I changed the basement bulbs to LED, but I just flat didn't think about the closet bulbs.
She never did like to have to reach past her dresses to get to the switch up there on the ceiling. I removed both the lights and ran a LED light strip about 3' long above the sliding doors and then mounted a separate switch. Much better light and more convenient now.
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yea Ben, same fixtures, except my bay fixtures don't have the integrated switch. I wonder if the switch contributed to the heat build up? IDK.
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Avoided a disaster recently on this last trip.
Our bedroom closet goes across the back of the coach. Wife has it packed full of her clothes and dresses. I'm never in there. I've changed out all interior lights with LED, except I missed those 2 in the closet somehow. When DW was in the closet, she accidently left the lights on. They are the plastic frames/lenses on the ceiling and the switch is integrated into the fixture with incandescent bulb. Well, they got hot enough they fused the ceiling material to the light fixture. Luckily we smelled something burning and figured it out quickly. I'm rewiring those fixtures and installing a LED strip light with a remote switch.
If anyone has a similar set up, you might take a look.
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I've done both the Guardian plates and the Watts myself. Accurate measuring for the guardian's is important, but it can be done single handed. Just take your time. There many Youtube videos on the measuring procedure.
If you're going to Quartzsite, consider talking to Mike Hughes (MonacoWatts) first. He's been there every year I've been going and even helped me put on my front watts a couple years ago. If he is coming out, he just needs to know what kit you will need. We usually go to the area that the IRV2 crowd goes to, which is south of town.
FWIW, I did the rear watts and rear cross bars myself.
The only issue I see about doing the Guardian plates at Quartzsite, is the Mastic/glue drying time Talin gives you (5200). The package says it takes 7 days to fully cure. When I did mine, it was sitting in it's garage, so curing time wasn't an issue. I'd check with Bethany at Talin to see if you can roll the slides in before that 7 days is up.
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Bill,
When Monaco re-did mine back in 2007, I don't have a reducer on the intake side of the filter. That long flexible intake hose going up to the corner of the coach was replaced with 7". When I replace my filter, that hose connects directly to the filter.
As Ben mentioned, Harry turned his filter end to end. I've seen it in person and I know there are some pictures of it over on IRV2 somewhere. When you do that, it actually pushes the filter back into that dead space, just aft of the radiator because the air coming out of the filter has to make an immediate 90 degree turn to get to the rigid pipe leading to the turbo.
I'm getting ready to order a new filter. The current one was installed about 4 years ago. I plan on cutting it open just for fun and see how dirty it really is.
BTW, I use 8 mpg for planning purposes, but actually getting a little better than than, without generator running.
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On 10/17/2022 at 10:11 AM, Donflem said:
I’m going to try the parts cleaning trick . Thanks for all the advice.
Don
2007 Dynasty
When you turn the key, the inner circle should pop out when it unlocks.
I use one of these anti rattle devices as well. Not too noticeable on coach, but when I towed my jeep behind my pick up, I could really tell the difference when this was installed.
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My fans do NOT rely on the multiplex at all. totally separate system. What Harry has posted looks like my intellitec, but the fans are not part of this.
Ben, They come with a remote holder. I mounted mine on the wall where the old FF switch was. I had 12 volt at the ceiling fan, so it was an easy swap out for me. The fan also has switches, so you can control most functions from it too. Remote is much easier, however.
The remotes are very directional. I only have 1 maxxfan, but I have read you can use 1 remote for multiple fans without activating the wrong fan---that would be a pain, if it did.
The OP has a 2004 Executive. Higher up the 'food chain' then my 06 Windsor, but also a little older. Maybe he or someone here has a similar coach and can tell us how it's wired.
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On 9/13/2022 at 1:22 PM, powersltc said:
Ron P., 2004 Monaco Executive
Looking for any recommendations/suggestions on bathroom ceiling fan replacement.
Ron P.
If it's a Fantastic Fan, they got bought out by dometic. When my FF died, I replaced it with a Maxxfan. It will fit in the same opening, is much quieter, and has many more features then the old FF did. Instead of the wall mounted switch, it has a wireless remote.
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My friend that was interested in pursuing this endeavor has a few Camelot badges for sale (he has posted either here or on irv2 for sale), but decided it’s just not worth the cost and/or risk. With minimum orders and set up fees, you’re out of pocket many thousands of dollars before you sell just 1. Multiply that for several models and your talking a lot of money.
I believe there is a company in Canada that may be a solution for individual owners to contact directly. I don’t have first hand experience, so any feedback here would be helpful.
laserman cutsred deer, Alberta
Web: lasermanncuts.ca
i hope this could be a solution for some
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very interesting. Thanks for taking the time.
I wonder if it can eventually be filed in "articles" on the title block so readily available.
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21 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
If you really want to get another year or so out of it, pull it off including the roll core, rotate the fabric 180deg, swap the two plastic beads ( the bead that goes into the coach side, is larger dia than the bead that goes into the tube. I'm sure there is a technical word for the bead, but I don't know it 😄!).
Get a big needle and thread, and every 12" or so, put a few stiches into the seam that came apart. Once that seem which is now on the core tube, has a couple of tight wraps on it, it's not coming apart! ( trust me, I put paper on cores for the majority of my life).
Reinstall topper, and your good to go till your fabric is toast!
They call it Sling Spline.
Now say it 3 times fast. lol
Sanicon Fuse/Breaker
in Electrical Systems
Posted
Yea. #12 is too small for the new sanicon. Your breaker popped this time, it's too small for the new pump.--it's either a 15 or 20 amp. The wire might melt next time--think Fire, especially if your using the larger breaker that comes with the new pump. That little thing with my arrow is a resettable fuse/circuit breaker. I think a #10 is only rated for about 20' (from memory), longer than that, it's a #8.