windsorbill06

1 hour ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

40-60% for long term storage is ideal. 

You don't want to leave them completely drained for very long ("I usually turn inverter and charger off when stored and they drop down about 1% every 24-36 hours.  Just minor parasitic DC loads.").  I remove mine for the winter and leave it in the garage to protect it from extreme cold temps as well (Canada, eh).  They can sit disconnected for 6 months and lose about 1% of their state of charge. Amazing.

...and the project's not done until you remove that fugly plastic over the screen!  🙂

 

Ha!.  That plastic cover on the display is driving my grandson crazy.  He's just dying to pull it off!

We're in warm climate so we use coach pretty much year round.  I have the Lion UT1300's.  When I have talked to Lion in the past, they didn't seem concerned, considering we don't store coach for months on end.   Not a bad warranty either, if I do have issues.

11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Bill, only lithium experience I have is E-bikes, and the 40-60% is what they recommend for long term storage.

Yea,   we have 2 ebikes.   Right in the manual in BIG red letters, it states to store them long term at 40-60 %.   

You'll really like that new system.  I've had it for 3 or so years. I still have the plastic screen protector on mine as well.lol  I have it running all outlets in coach and 1 of the roof airs.

What's your feeling about storing the lithium batteries ?   Some say 40-60%, I see yours are 100%.   I usually turn inverter and charger off when stored and they drop down about 1% every 24-36 hours.  Just minor parasitic DC loads.

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Yep, hopefully that solves your problem Bill!

thanks Ben, Me too!

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Hopefully you got it fixed. 

Can you make out the number under the bar code, might be able to search using that.

the number on the bar code is 10667D  (appears the board was made by IDS, Inc).

This one is extinct.   I did find a 10667C.  It looks the same from pictures, but unsure if it will work.

https://rvcomponents.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/md/M6819/s1.pl?

I also came across a wiring diagram for the board.  I'm not sure how to put it in the files sections.

Monaco HR 16619456 quad slide.dwg.pdf

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I only have 2 slides, the larger connector is what I have on my controller. 

I wonder if the two smaller connectors are for the front slides.  You might try disconnecting and see which slides the affect.  If they are for the front slides you might consider swapping and see how the slide acts when you do that. 

I did a search on slide controllers available from the most common sites and never saw one that looks like yours. 

You and Ben got me thinking. 

I first went back and checked all my rollers.  I have 5 of them.   I adjusted the 2 slide mounted rollers (inside kitchen cabinets) a little, but otherwise, all seemed perfect.  Slides goes in and out smoothly.    I operated it at least 10 times, but I didn't go to fully out or fully in.  Seems like that's when pin sheers off.  All seemed good.

Then I decided to look at the slide out circuit board that I posted a picture of.  It's in the rear electric compartment.  Like Tom says, probably not the best place to have electronics.   Unplugged everything from the circuit board, including the 2 fuses.  When I connected my multimeter (continuity) to the 2 blades of the 20 amp resettable, it was actually pulsing.   I've never seen or heard of  that before.   I noticed the blades were black with what I would guess was oxidation.  Didn't get a before picture but they really shinned up with a little elbow grease and contact cleaner. Tested again, and constant buzzing like it should.

Plugged everything back together.

I ran the slide full out and full in a couple times, to where the motor was lugging.   So far, so good.

Is this sheer pin issue resolved?  I don't know.   Some time and testing is in order.

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Is it possible that self resetting breaker is supposed to trip before the sheer pin breaks?

Funny you mention that.  I had thought about replacing it and see what happens, but usually when a breaker gets old/weak, I would think it would trip sooner rather than later.    I can't remember if this slide use to shut off power or not to the motor when it reached it's limits.   I know my rear bedroom slide (drivers side), will make a ratcheting sound when you hold the switch too long.   This forward slide operation is different.

Maybe start practicing what Brian B is doing and I'm the only one operating this slide.  Can't blame anybody else but me when the sheer pin goes, Right?  

My pins are 1/4".   I have a supply of cheap sheer pins from Amazon purchased years ago--no idea what they are rated as.    I did get a (as Tom calls it), garden variety 1/4" 20 bolts from Lowes.    I was careful to get the bolt so the threads are not being used for the sheer strength inside the square tubing. 

Had one of those bolts sheer off too.    Still doing some testing and trying to isolate when the sheering takes place.    I was told by an mobile mechanic I happen to run into in the HD parking lot, my slide motor acts like a car window motor.  When the amps jump from the window being closed, it triggers the motor to stop.  I'm starting to think this information is wrong when applied to this slide out motor.  More testing required.

For what it's worth, Here's my slide controller board in the rear electric compartment.   Without unplugging everything, I don't see any part number.

Thank you Jim,   unfortunately I don't have that system.  Looks like the tracks are similar, but the motor and switch board is completely different.

I've got 4 electric slides.  The issue I'm having in on only 1, the front curb side slide out.   It's a lippert slide out.  Gears.  No cables.    Slide goes in and out smoothly, square and no jerking or bouncing.  There is no floor rot or damage.

The problem I have is when the slide reaches it's limit (either retracted or extended), the motor will keep running and torque off the sheer bolt.   This is the original motor.   

Can someone explain how the motor is to know that the slide has reached it's limit ?   I'm not aware of any limit switches.  Maybe motor senses a amp jump?  Maybe slide out circuit board in rear electrical compartment is acting up?

28 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

True enough!

My fill tube in the engine compartment is side by side with the engine oil dipstick, so, you expect it is a dipstick as well. But it's not!

Mine is the same.  Side by side from engine compartment.  Oil dipstick and only a tranny fill point.  But I also have the stick that is accessed from bedroom floor.

Here's a used one.

https://rvaccessories.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/md/M100762/s1.pl?

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

MY DW sits after she pulls close enough for the tow bar hookup.  She refuses to be involved.  I do have her sit in vehicle and turn on and off the ignition…..then finally start engine and put in reverse and rev up….repeat for drive.  So, I functionally test neutral before we start the trip.  Likewise she pulls up and then after total disconnect of bar and umbilical, I reach in window and restore it from NEUTRAL.

A real MARRIAGE saving protocol….LOL….

The last couple trips, I've taken my 14.5 year old grandson since my wife had to stay back for work (CPA, tax time!!).  I've let him pull the car up to the tow bar and he and I've practice the check list several times, but I still oversee his steps.   He takes it VERY seriously. I asked him a non-relevant question mid checklist, and he insisted on starting over.   Even leaves his IPhone in coach so he doesn't get distracted, which, I'm told,  is unheard of.  LOL. 

Trust, but Verify.   

I made up a  Honda CRV check list for my wife to reference.  I laminated it and keep it in the car.    She follows it carefully and we've never had an issue--going on 10 years now.

2014 Honda tow checklist.docx

I actually bought 2 from  2 different sources.  originally WWW.buyparts.online   Slow to respond and I thought it was a scam.  Apparently not, but lousy business model. Took 2 weeks for them to drop in mail.   They don't answer phone, don't return calls and very slow at responding to emails. I was ready to dispute the charge with CC company. I wouldn't use them again.

Then I found 1 on ebay, but I went direct to seller in Colorado.  The ebay says 'no returns, no exceptions' and I was a little skeptical.  Once I talked to them, I felt better.     Arkansas Valley Diesel Services, Inc   (719) 336-3241  (actually in Colorado)

I know this is an older thread, but goes along the same lines.

I've been having intermittent cruise control issues for years.  I couldn't turn it on with the smart wheel.  Take it to dealer, it's fine.   Maybe go several months working fine, and out of the blue, stops working.

I finally tracked the problem down to when the steering wheel is exposed to the sun, it heats up.  Cools down, it's fine.  I took the clock spring out and bench tested it.  Resistance was <1 most of the time.   When heated up with a blow dryer, resistance varied, but got up to 2 and sometimes much higher.  Let it cool down and would drop but then I noticed one of the legs stayed up above 3.  Ordered a new one and resistance is .6 at room temp.  Stays below <1 when set in sun.  Everything working as it should now.

They are hard to find.  Veurink has them at nearly $400 with shipping.  I found a couple other places from internet searches.  Cheapest I found was $180 and only $7 shipping, but slow to respond to questions.    Took them 2 weeks to drop it in mail.  I was going to call the credit card company and dispute the charge, but just got an update that it did finally ship.  So I'll have 2 of them.   Correct part number for my coach is 1900043.  I believe Douglas Autotech makes it.

New one came 'pre centered'.   See white clip on picture.  It needs to be pulled out as you re-assemble everything.

Very straight forward swap. 

Here's the new one with the auto centering clip installed.  I couldn't resist and cut the old one open to see how it works.  

I went with the Samsung french door model.  I know some have had issues, but mine has been flawless.    At the time, I had a MSW inverter, and Samsung was one of the few (maybe the only one) that would work with MSW's.   Also the dimensions were very close.  I think it's a couple inches taller, then the Norcold was, but width and depth were virtually the same. 

4 hours ago, Hancoman said:

Decided to go with a residential refrigerator going to be installed first week in May. I am guessing this is the original refrigerator so it lasted 23 years. If anyone is looking for parts let me know.

 

Tom

good decision.  

When I swapped out mine to a residential maybe 5 years ago, I salvaged the fans from the back of the old fridge,  and I think a couple interior plastic trays for other projects.   Our local trash vendor picks up appliances for free, so off it went.

@Bill R PO obviously decided that running 5' of romex to ATS vs 25' to the panel was easier.  Can't blame him, but not best set up.   

@Bill R not related to your water leak, but I'm curious what the box is in the foreground?   Looks like electrical fuses/circuit breakers or disconnect?

Kaper supplied them for my coach.  Here's a link.

https://www.kaperii.com/

If you don't have any luck, post the dimensions of yours.

5 hours ago, rpasetto said:

An '06 with Valid air leveling?  I thought Monaco used HWH up thru '06, then started with Valid in '07.

My 06 windsor also has the Valid system.   It's the only year monaco put it on the Windsor.   It's been flawless.

I had an issue with the steering wheel horn pad (center of smart wheel) not making contact when I pressed on it.  And  just a couple months ago in Quartzsite, another Monaco owner had the same issue.

Take the horn pad off the center of the steering wheel and remove the yellow wire.  Touch that yellow wire on the brackets mounted on the steering wheel column, where the 2 gray wires are connected.  

If the horn does activate, your horn pad is not seated properly in the steering wheel.

18 hours ago, Kenster said:

The original is more square with slightly radiused corners, and the replacement that supersedes the original appears to be slightly rounded on the top. Did you have white paint showing around the top of the newer version? If so, how did you address that?

I took some aluminum (think sheet metal) from Lowes and cut it to size and rounded corners.  Pre-fit it and then cleaned it real well with vinegar, primed and painted it.  It's been about 5 years and held up pretty well.  Can remember if I used Rustoleum "Hammered" paint or possibly just gloss black.  You could alway have it powered coated.  Picture not the best, but it almost looks OEM.

I personally would not replace the 2 awnings with 1 large one.  We often leave our door awning out during inclimate/rainy weather. I won't extend the large awning if there's any chance of moderate winds, often times associated with rain.

Ali

I'm going through a similar issue, but at the other end of the drag link.  My rubber grease boot split and I'm researching options.

But to your question, here's a picture of mine.  Your second picture looks as if the gap is not the same all the way around, but maybe it's the angle of the camera. There's no rubber boot at that gap, at least not on mine, it's up by the zerk fitting.    I'd chock the tires, start the engine, and have someone turn the steering wheel,  just a little, back and forth, while you watch to see if there is any play/slack in that joint.  

15 minutes ago, DBRV.0 said:

I've tried looking at wiring diagrams and cannot figure this out.  I've tried Monacoers searches, but come up empty.  Here is how my 2009 is wired:

The front TV as a double-outlet receptacle.  But that receptacle has 2 Romex wires.  One is switched power and comes from the AV cabinet, as shown.  I cannot figure out what the other Romex is for - it has to be a power feed to somewhere for something.  Part of what is perplexing is that it is switched power.  It is not any of the 3 floor-level outlets in the front seat area.

Anyone with an idea?

- Jeff

I'll throw this out for thought.

A couple years ago, over on IRV2, we figured out on a older windsor that the front TV receptacle was a junction box.  There was a home run from the CB panel to the front TV, and from there,  it fed several outlets in the kitchen slide.  Try doing some testing with that in mind.