windsorbill06

The last couple trips, I've taken my 14.5 year old grandson since my wife had to stay back for work (CPA, tax time!!). I've let him pull the car up to the tow bar and he and I've practice the check list several times, but I still oversee his steps. He takes it VERY seriously. I asked him a non-relevant question mid checklist, and he insisted on starting over. Even leaves his IPhone in coach so he doesn't get distracted, which, I'm told, is unheard of. LOL. Trust, but Verify.

I made up a Honda CRV check list for my wife to reference. I laminated it and keep it in the car. She follows it carefully and we've never had an issue--going on 10 years now. 2014 Honda tow checklist.docx

I actually bought 2 from 2 different sources. originally WWW.buyparts.online Slow to respond and I thought it was a scam. Apparently not, but lousy business model. Took 2 weeks for them to drop in mail. They don't answer phone, don't return calls and very slow at responding to emails. I was ready to dispute the charge with CC company. I wouldn't use them again. Then I found 1 on ebay, but I went direct to seller in Colorado. The ebay says 'no returns, no exceptions' and I was a little skeptical. Once I talked to them, I felt better. Arkansas Valley Diesel Services, Inc (719) 336-3241 (actually in Colorado)

I know this is an older thread, but goes along the same lines. I've been having intermittent cruise control issues for years. I couldn't turn it on with the smart wheel. Take it to dealer, it's fine. Maybe go several months working fine, and out of the blue, stops working. I finally tracked the problem down to when the steering wheel is exposed to the sun, it heats up. Cools down, it's fine. I took the clock spring out and bench tested it. Resistance was <1 most of the time. When heated up with a blow dryer, resistance varied, but got up to 2 and sometimes much higher. Let it cool down and would drop but then I noticed one of the legs stayed up above 3. Ordered a new one and resistance is .6 at room temp. Stays below <1 when set in sun. Everything working as it should now. They are hard to find. Veurink has them at nearly $400 with shipping. I found a couple other places from internet searches. Cheapest I found was $180 and only $7 shipping, but slow to respond to questions. Took them 2 weeks to drop it in mail. I was going to call the credit card company and dispute the charge, but just got an update that it did finally ship. So I'll have 2 of them. Correct part number for my coach is 1900043. I believe Douglas Autotech makes it. New one came 'pre centered'. See white clip on picture. It needs to be pulled out as you re-assemble everything. Very straight forward swap. Here's the new one with the auto centering clip installed. I couldn't resist and cut the old one open to see how it works.

I went with the Samsung french door model. I know some have had issues, but mine has been flawless. At the time, I had a MSW inverter, and Samsung was one of the few (maybe the only one) that would work with MSW's. Also the dimensions were very close. I think it's a couple inches taller, then the Norcold was, but width and depth were virtually the same.

good decision. When I swapped out mine to a residential maybe 5 years ago, I salvaged the fans from the back of the old fridge, and I think a couple interior plastic trays for other projects. Our local trash vendor picks up appliances for free, so off it went.

@Bill R PO obviously decided that running 5' of romex to ATS vs 25' to the panel was easier. Can't blame him, but not best set up.

@Bill R not related to your water leak, but I'm curious what the box is in the foreground? Looks like electrical fuses/circuit breakers or disconnect?

Kaper supplied them for my coach. Here's a link. https://www.kaperii.com/ If you don't have any luck, post the dimensions of yours.

My 06 windsor also has the Valid system. It's the only year monaco put it on the Windsor. It's been flawless.

I had an issue with the steering wheel horn pad (center of smart wheel) not making contact when I pressed on it. And just a couple months ago in Quartzsite, another Monaco owner had the same issue. Take the horn pad off the center of the steering wheel and remove the yellow wire. Touch that yellow wire on the brackets mounted on the steering wheel column, where the 2 gray wires are connected. If the horn does activate, your horn pad is not seated properly in the steering wheel.

I took some aluminum (think sheet metal) from Lowes and cut it to size and rounded corners. Pre-fit it and then cleaned it real well with vinegar, primed and painted it. It's been about 5 years and held up pretty well. Can remember if I used Rustoleum "Hammered" paint or possibly just gloss black. You could alway have it powered coated. Picture not the best, but it almost looks OEM.

I personally would not replace the 2 awnings with 1 large one. We often leave our door awning out during inclimate/rainy weather. I won't extend the large awning if there's any chance of moderate winds, often times associated with rain.

Ali I'm going through a similar issue, but at the other end of the drag link. My rubber grease boot split and I'm researching options. But to your question, here's a picture of mine. Your second picture looks as if the gap is not the same all the way around, but maybe it's the angle of the camera. There's no rubber boot at that gap, at least not on mine, it's up by the zerk fitting. I'd chock the tires, start the engine, and have someone turn the steering wheel, just a little, back and forth, while you watch to see if there is any play/slack in that joint.

I'll throw this out for thought. A couple years ago, over on IRV2, we figured out on a older windsor that the front TV receptacle was a junction box. There was a home run from the CB panel to the front TV, and from there, it fed several outlets in the kitchen slide. Try doing some testing with that in mind.

I had mis-read your post. I thought you left the stud in place. I'm leaning towards cutting the stud out as well. The 3/4" plywood sheer wall makes the wall very stout. I'll likely add a couple of self tapping screws through the plywood into the stud, just above and below where I cut it out.

I wish my stud was in the center of the 2 holes. But mine will be blocking about 1/2 of the right side.(total of 25% total blockage). Definitely not idea.

yes. I also have taking pictures showing the framing. I triple measure from the inside. I have a stud running right down the middle of where the vent would go. I then dropped the oven down and drilled a pilot hole from inside the cabinet. Hit the metal stud. I was expecting just luan covering the metal stud, but I had to drill through 3/4" plywood that has the wallpaper attached. Really quite stout. I assume this plywood continues across the whole wall and the upper cabinets attach to it.

You guys that did this project, and ran into a wall stud in middle of the vent, what is the consensus? Cut it out and don't worry about it? Or abandon the project and leave things alone?

Your correct. Julian is WEST of Ocotillo. That won't effect you. 78 (not the 87) goes right through Glamis. Many 45' coaches with stacker trailers, large 5'ver toy boxes, and everything else you can imagine, have Glamis as their destination. It's a sand dune mecca for off roaders and some say the largest sand dunes for recreational use in the country. (not sure about that claim, however) It's been a couple years since I was last there, but the 78 is a narrow, 2 lane road, but doable. All reasonably flat.

The black rubber that holds the light in, was quite pliable when new. It could be as hard as a rock and/or very brittle now and need to be cut enough to release the light from it's grip. I'd be inclined to work from inside as to minimize chances of scratching the outside of coach.

Me too. Thanks Tom, for sharing that. Maybe the guy that designed the brochure had dyslexia ? Kidding, of course. But makes me wonder what they were thinking.

Yea I do. I think it's a mystery that went down with the ship when Monaco closed up.

See, that didn't take long to blow out my theory lol. Any now that I think about it, maybe Bill R's toilet is same. Is your fridge on drivers side?

Ben, @96 EVO here's my take on your PDQ coach. Someone will prove me wrong, I know. @Bill R and I have very similar coaches. Same year, color scheme, and when we compare placement of different electronics, nearly identical. The only difference I can figure is the center of the coach (kitchen and bathroom) is reversed. He has the PDQ. I have a PEQ. I think the 'D' means the private toilet in on the drivers side. My 'E' has the toilet on the passenger side. What the E stands for, IDK. Maybe "Entrance"? But monaco wasn't consistent over all models and years. Seems like the only thing they were consistent on was the # of slides and corresponding "D, T, or Q. (double, triple, or Quad)