windsorbill06

Hi @Ernie Ekberg I must have a unicorn, or maybe it's floorplan specific. My curb side living room has a couple of rollers mounted on coach frame (maybe 3, I'd have to verify) PLUS 1 is mounted on the slide.

I wonder how the guardian plates will attach that are covering the epoxy? Usually they are held in place with the SS rivets. I'd bring that up with Talin when ordering. Yea, I see its the backside of the white plastic now. . When I first glanced at it, it looked like plywood.

Creative. Hope it holds up for years . How did you keep the epoxy from sticking to the plywood you have screwed to the underside of the slide? I'd still consider guardian plates all around.

like these? https://www.amazon.com/Cabinet-Latches-Perfect-Motorhome-Replacement/dp/B07T4GP3YZ/ref=asc_df_B07T4GP3YZ/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=363048141821&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=61793565457574019&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-782923649696&ref=&adgrpid=75269961079&th=1

One nice thing about most new faucets including delta, Price Pfister, and Moen, is they will guarantee even the cartridge and send you a new one for free should it start leaking. Sand and hard water is the biggest cause of failures/leaks. The catch is you have to contact the mfg, and I wouldn't mention anything about an RV.

Is the specialized plug your talking about, USB outlets? You could put back the original plug, and daisy chain a new romex over to an area that has the depth to allow for the deeper box (maybe side of cabinet, as an example). Both would be flush mounted/original and you'd still have several outlets for different uses.

Lenny, Having the old screen will make things so much easier. You'll probably have to use it as a template. Try these guys. Heard good things about them, but never personally used them. https://www.all-rite.com/

gently pry it off. There may be double sided tape, silicone, or who know what. I start at the top, with the smaller trim piece that butts to the ceiling. Once you pry the long piece away from the wall, you need to work it up as it's usually between the dash, wall and windshield gasket pretty tight.. Slow and steady. it is somewhat flexible, but I wouldn't bend it too much. When you put it back together, there is no reason to use anything but the screws--at least I never did.

Dennis, I have the clear lexan handles on the dash, but I do have something similar to what you have on the right side of my door as I EXIT. It was loose and getting scratched up pretty badly. I took it off and pre-drilled and tapped for set screws. You can see them in first picture as allen heads. Then I had the entire handle powder coated. I grab that handle every time I exit the coach and it's held up for years.

did you already take the trim around the door off? With the screw buttons showing in the last picture? Then the hard plastic cover will be fully visible. There may be more screws in the hard plastic, under the door trim.

Mike, a tank 200' away would only require 50 inches deep, not 50 feet. That's with 1/4" fall. Unless your tank is really shallow, I'd think that would work. I've done as little as 1/8" fall, and inspector approved that, but we had to have an engineer certify the 'as built'.

ah, good for you. I know even mentioning this site over there will get you called out. Too bad.

@timaz996 I'm confused? Why paste and copy the question from IRV2? Your not Colddiesel over there, I don't think??

Mike, My panel is in rear closet and it gets hot while driving. I now prop open the closet doors and I have a portable 120 v electric fan that blows air towards the circuit breaker panel. The engine heat is hard on the electrical, especially when you have a heavy load running off of the generator.

Mike, the bottoms should come out using a putty knife or similar tool. On some of mine however, the side panels are sitting on top of the bottom panels, so you have to remove at least 1 side panel first. If you have shelves in the cabinets, you'll have to remove the adjustable brackets too before the side wall panels can come out.

i would suspect your air conditioner. Try other devices and see if you can isolate it down to 1 thing shutting down the generator.

I had a similar issue a few years ago, but my lights would also randomly turn on AND off. Traced it down to the control board for the Intellitec system. From memory, I have model # 750, but I think it's printed on the boards itself, yours may be different. I talked to M & M several times about it. They are patient and will walk you through troubleshooting. One of the first questions they ask is 'do you have florescent lights', but I had already changed mine out to LED, so that wasn't the problem. Apparently florescent ballasts don't play well with the intellitec system. After replacing that board, all was fine.

Yep, Heat build up in the entire closet area is bad for those electronics, shortening their lives. Lots of choices to minimize or reduce the heat, both here and on IRV2.

@brokenarrow1244 Yours's looks like it has substantial heat damage and discoloration.. Mine didn't have any of that, one of the reason's it took so long to diagnose. In my case, the main panel, along with the intellitec is in the rear closet. It gets hot in there and I think that was the issue I was having..

LOL. Isn't that the truth. My wife did the same thing for years. Then one day, a guy pulled in next to us and as soon as the engine shut down, the drivers slides started going out. Well, the front slide clipped the CG electrical panel and it blew the transformer for the entire row, including ours. I've convinced my wife to let me do a good walk around before we start deploying. I take advantage of getting some items out of the basement then.

@Cushman_Ruth Did you ever get the blinking resolved? I had a similar problem, the EMS board would blink and interior lights would randomly go off and on, but it would only happen when I had a fairly heavy load, such as both roof airs running while on generator. It had a lot of people stumped for a year or so. A new control board from M and M fixed that problem. @Steve Hepfer Did M&M help you diagnose?

@welleking Wayne, I've got the 40'PEQ and purchased it new. I believe we have the same floor plan. We have the Valid system, air only. Last fall we were driving in Colorado. I looked in my side mirror and saw the back of our RV going away from us. What?? Turns out it was @Bill R in his coach. He had just passed us. . We have the same exterior paint scheme. When our coach was new, from ignorance, I would deploy the slides AFTER the coach was level. In extreme cases, when the site itself was out of level, I could really hear the front passenger slide binding. Almost like fingernails on chalk board. It wasn't pretty! But when I extended/retracted at ride height, that horrible scraping was never an issue. So I'm a firm believer to extend/retract at ride height. Manual also says to do it that way. Many of the campgrounds we stay in are pretty level, concrete pads. In that case, like @Bill R mentions, I wouldn't worry about it.

Ben, I've read about the tri-mark controller for the entrance door lock sometimes start clicking, but mine is located in compartment, next to the pax seat, not under the dash. I believe the fix for that is to re-boot it.

You only need a couple quarts to do 2 coats, as I recall. How expensive is it? 2 years ago, you couldn't get it shipped to California. I had a hard time finding it. Found some 'hidden' stock at Lowes and since I knew the manager there, they sold it to me. I think it was $10/quart back then. You can get it shipped to California now, but the price is $25/qt. USD.