windsorbill06

I'm struggling with the best location for the pad. That room is pretty small, I'd like to put it on the wall next to the sink, but I'm concerned about water splashing on it. Maybe up high? Anybody post some pictures of your switch location in that toilet room? I could put it on the wall, directly outside the door- in the hall. Not too convenient if you're using the toilet and forgot to turn on the water pump, however.

Ben, I believe it's short for 'cosmetic'. It controls the wall light fixture above the sink. Other bath sink has the same label. Tom, I do have the water pump switch in the wet bay. Momentary, ON/OFF. All the others are the multiplex style.

I didn't mention, I'm only talking about 2-3' of added wire.

Monaco installed these Multiplex switches in my toilet room cabinet. Just not the best place for convenience and wrong orientation. Problem is, my wires inside cabinet are too short to just move the switch to a better location. Can I just splice in longer wires, use new molex connector, or would this cause issues with the multiplex system? I know that the switches just send a signal back to the control box, but I don't know enough about the system to just jump in, thus the question.

Take that clear plastic piece down to a glass shop that does shower door enclosures. Any good shop will have several different profiles and you can match it up. I just did that on a shower in our house.

Lanny I saw your IRV2 post as well. OneExtreme, as mentioned above, is really good and not too far from you. I helped a friend take his coach and also helped him pick it up from that place, so I saw before and after. His final product (front and rear caps and minor touch up all around) was outstanding, but not cheap. It took forever to get an appointment, however. They had his coach a long time, 4 or 5 weeks, as I recall, so be sure you know that going in.

your right. I didn't convey that. I was trying to point out that the power goes towards the inverter, not the original CB panel.

Since my coach already had 50 amp running from the shore power cord to the transfer switch, that part was pretty easy. My ATS is right next to my inverter location. I think I used less than 3' of wire from ATS to victron. Then, I re-used the existing wire that Monaco ran from the ATS to the main circuit breaker panel in the back closet, just moved it from the ATS to the output of the Victron. The wire was long enough. There was other very considerable wiring needs to get everything working properly. It's quite involved and I'm happy to share with you what I did in more detail. I did the work by myself so not having a 'go-fer', increased the time considerably. Before I even started this, a victron dealer gave me a $12,500 quote with a 10% 'cushion' to do what I did and that did not include the Victron components. I have a little over 100 hours into this project, which included installation of the CerboGX and the display screen in the hallway.

John, I'm with Bill R and just create your own route. When Monaco wired these things, they weren't thinking about you and me pulling wire to upgrade. I did upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II about a year ago, as well, but I already had 50 amps coming in. Quite a job rewiring everything, but pretty cool technology now that it's done.

Here's something I came across on facebook. The guy had plumbed it into his coach with a snap disc to turn it off and on. IMO, way too expensive to just cool an inverter area, but an interesting concept. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TDXWC4Q/?coliid=IA9GN1W4F4IU7&colid=3KUASJ0BUDMPD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im

I’m in palm desert. No rain here.

So you got the 10 ga wire run, but you’re using the oem breaker? that OEM breaker is only rated for 15-20 amps. It was designed to protect the 12 ga wire.

Harry just did a write up specifically on how to do this. He'll come along and probably comment. Harry, I don't care what you say, you have ESP!

Ron, Are you planning on using the OEM switch or the new one that comes with the pump? Your original switch isn't rated at 30 amps.

Ron, thanks for that link. I think that is exactly what I had heard about. I'm just finishing up a pretty extensive inverter swap, lithium installation and all new solar project. Pulling new #10's for the sanicon should be quick and easy. (famous last words!) May even do #8's if I have that laying around.

I have read about some putting a nylon sleeve over the sanicon hose to help protect it from rubbing and eventually leaking. Anyone do this, does it work, and what source is the sleeve?

Yea. #12 is too small for the new sanicon. Your breaker popped this time, it's too small for the new pump.--it's either a 15 or 20 amp. The wire might melt next time--think Fire, especially if your using the larger breaker that comes with the new pump. That little thing with my arrow is a resettable fuse/circuit breaker. I think a #10 is only rated for about 20' (from memory), longer than that, it's a #8.

Chris is right, My Windsor (similar to the Camelot back in 2006) came from the factory with a 12ga wire run for the sanicon. That can't handle the new 600 model. The CB is in the curb side, rear run bay---see picture. I'm waiting for my sanicon to give up, and then I'm going to replace it, but I'll have to pull a new #10 wire with a new fuse. #8 is needed if it's a long run.

Frank, Reason I asked, could this sensor be the one to trigger the ECM in an overheat condition? It's pretty difficult to shop test it, but I suppose a person could ground the wire and drive the coach reasonably hard and see if the ECM derates. I suppose this test would record an 'overheat condition' and that might NOT be a good thing, even though it really didn't happen.

A question for this group. Will the ECM reduce power to the engine when it sees an overheat condition? Or just an idiot light and gauge indication?

I would hope he's talking about when driving down the road.

I tend to agree. Ha! Maybe we can use it as a fluid sampling port?

I did a little more research now that I'm back home with coach, but no real answers. I only have 1 wire connected to the sensor terminals. I know it came from Monaco this way. I grounded out that wire and I DO NOT get any idiot light on dash with engine running or not. There is no continuity between either terminal and the sensor body with engine cold. . I've never overheated. but possibly, in that scenario, it will send a signal to ECM to derate engine, IDK. Why some have 2 wires and I have one, and some have none, is also interesting.

Bill, I was going to respond earlier, but been away from coach and didn't think I had any pictures with me. However, I did find a picture that might help you. Once I'm back at coach, I can give you more details. The white horizontal wire next to the blue hose goes to the sensor in question. It's a single wire. Sensor your mentioned has 2 post, however. From there the wire goes into the wire loom running across the engine (left to right) and turns an goes forward along a frame rail with a bunch of other wires. I know this is all OEM. If I were you, I think I'd cut those wire ties holding the bundles and see if you can find a single wire in there that's been abandoned. I could be wrong, but I think that sensor is the high temp sensor that will illuminate an idiot light on the dash. So Aladdin or gauges wouldn't be effected.

When my nason switch failed, the 'parking brake' light on the dash (Idiot lights), was illuminated as well, even with the parking brake off.