windsorbill06

Monaco put 2 of the plastic drawer clips in the cup holder drawer. One to hold it open, the other to hold it closed. Mine were always either breaking or out of alignment. I took the entire assembly apart and added magnets to hold the drawer closed and opened. Now the drawer stay put, open or closed. One big improvement now is when the drawer is open, it comes out much further and when the magnet locks the drawer open, it makes the drawer MUCH more secure. My wife will set snacks or her cell phone on the shelf besides a water bottle or coffee cup.

Bill R Sure glad it worked out. Besides yours and mine, I saw one other 2006 Windsor that had the wrong filter. I'm sure there are others. Can't speak about non Windsor's with the ISL, however. Once you see the physical size difference, it's not surprising that the engine produces more power. Kinda like drinking a thick milkshake through a straw! BTW, You should be getting 12++mpg now with that new filter. 😆. NOT!

Doesn't look like you can slide the filter forward either without hitting the serpentine belt. But hard to tell, it looks like you have a little more room between filter and rear cap, to get the door shut without bumping the filter housing. As Ben mentioned, as long as seals are tight, you should be fine, especially just getting home. Personally, I wouldn't leave the bailing wire there as a long term fix, but that's me. With a little planning, this would be a great Quartzsite project to get the new straps installed for the filter housing. BTW, our coaches must have been built right next to each other. Your yellow air minder supply line in your picture, is stretched out about as far as it will go, exactly like mine.

If you look at Harry's pictures posted above, it looks like he off set his inward some from the square tube frame. However, I don't think I could offset mine as much as it looks like his is. The filter housing would likely rub against the serpentine belt.

Here are a few pictures of mine now. The intake hose coming down from the air intake box, directly connects to the air filter intake, no adapters. I believe warranty changed that hose out, but I can't exactly recall. The air filter exit goes directly into the rigid pipe leading to the turbo with the rubber reducers. There are not additional supports on the Cobra, that I can see. One thing I found, the new larger filter doesn't quite allow the hatch door to close without hitting the filter. It's minor, but you can see a little dent on the front of the filter housing. Not too sure if you can off set the filter brackets on that frame or not. You need less than 1/2". You have the original overflow plastic tank too, I see. Keep an eye on that thing. It's old and gets brittle. I went with an aluminum tank, but they have exact replacement plastic tanks too.

There are 2 fixtures on the ceiling in that closet, with integrated sliding switches. She had left them both on with the closet doors closed. We figured they were on for about 6 or 7 hours. The light fixture frames are plastic but the housing directly behind the bulb is metal. When monaco installed the fixtures using screws, they tightened them on the ceiling and the soft ceiling material molded around the fixture. I think from the fixture pressing on the ceiling, it 'pillowed' and came in contact with the metal back plate. With the extended time the lights were on, the ceiling material couldn't handle that heat. If you don't have LED bulbs in there, I'd suggest considering it. Like I mentioned, I changed the basement bulbs to LED, but I just flat didn't think about the closet bulbs. She never did like to have to reach past her dresses to get to the switch up there on the ceiling. I removed both the lights and ran a LED light strip about 3' long above the sliding doors and then mounted a separate switch. Much better light and more convenient now.

yea Ben, same fixtures, except my bay fixtures don't have the integrated switch. I wonder if the switch contributed to the heat build up? IDK.

Avoided a disaster recently on this last trip. Our bedroom closet goes across the back of the coach. Wife has it packed full of her clothes and dresses. I'm never in there. I've changed out all interior lights with LED, except I missed those 2 in the closet somehow. When DW was in the closet, she accidently left the lights on. They are the plastic frames/lenses on the ceiling and the switch is integrated into the fixture with incandescent bulb. Well, they got hot enough they fused the ceiling material to the light fixture. Luckily we smelled something burning and figured it out quickly. I'm rewiring those fixtures and installing a LED strip light with a remote switch. If anyone has a similar set up, you might take a look.

I've done both the Guardian plates and the Watts myself. Accurate measuring for the guardian's is important, but it can be done single handed. Just take your time. There many Youtube videos on the measuring procedure. If you're going to Quartzsite, consider talking to Mike Hughes (MonacoWatts) first. He's been there every year I've been going and even helped me put on my front watts a couple years ago. If he is coming out, he just needs to know what kit you will need. We usually go to the area that the IRV2 crowd goes to, which is south of town. FWIW, I did the rear watts and rear cross bars myself. The only issue I see about doing the Guardian plates at Quartzsite, is the Mastic/glue drying time Talin gives you (5200). The package says it takes 7 days to fully cure. When I did mine, it was sitting in it's garage, so curing time wasn't an issue. I'd check with Bethany at Talin to see if you can roll the slides in before that 7 days is up.

Bill, When Monaco re-did mine back in 2007, I don't have a reducer on the intake side of the filter. That long flexible intake hose going up to the corner of the coach was replaced with 7". When I replace my filter, that hose connects directly to the filter. As Ben mentioned, Harry turned his filter end to end. I've seen it in person and I know there are some pictures of it over on IRV2 somewhere. When you do that, it actually pushes the filter back into that dead space, just aft of the radiator because the air coming out of the filter has to make an immediate 90 degree turn to get to the rigid pipe leading to the turbo. I'm getting ready to order a new filter. The current one was installed about 4 years ago. I plan on cutting it open just for fun and see how dirty it really is. BTW, I use 8 mpg for planning purposes, but actually getting a little better than than, without generator running.

When you turn the key, the inner circle should pop out when it unlocks. I use one of these anti rattle devices as well. Not too noticeable on coach, but when I towed my jeep behind my pick up, I could really tell the difference when this was installed. https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-50023-Tightener-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B07JDD8L3H/ref=asc_df_B07JDD8L3H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614327115867578216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-693753947949&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68750937003&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614327115867578216&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-693753947949

My fans do NOT rely on the multiplex at all. totally separate system. What Harry has posted looks like my intellitec, but the fans are not part of this. Ben, They come with a remote holder. I mounted mine on the wall where the old FF switch was. I had 12 volt at the ceiling fan, so it was an easy swap out for me. The fan also has switches, so you can control most functions from it too. Remote is much easier, however. The remotes are very directional. I only have 1 maxxfan, but I have read you can use 1 remote for multiple fans without activating the wrong fan---that would be a pain, if it did. The OP has a 2004 Executive. Higher up the 'food chain' then my 06 Windsor, but also a little older. Maybe he or someone here has a similar coach and can tell us how it's wired.

If it's a Fantastic Fan, they got bought out by dometic. When my FF died, I replaced it with a Maxxfan. It will fit in the same opening, is much quieter, and has many more features then the old FF did. Instead of the wall mounted switch, it has a wireless remote.

My friend that was interested in pursuing this endeavor has a few Camelot badges for sale (he has posted either here or on irv2 for sale), but decided it’s just not worth the cost and/or risk. With minimum orders and set up fees, you’re out of pocket many thousands of dollars before you sell just 1. Multiply that for several models and your talking a lot of money. I believe there is a company in Canada that may be a solution for individual owners to contact directly. I don’t have first hand experience, so any feedback here would be helpful. laserman cuts red deer, Alberta Web: lasermanncuts.ca i hope this could be a solution for some

very interesting. Thanks for taking the time. I wonder if it can eventually be filed in "articles" on the title block so readily available.

They call it Sling Spline. Now say it 3 times fast. lol

I'm late to the party, but why are you building a acid/lithium system? Are the lead acid new enough you want to hold on to them? Plus an extra solar charge controller and a DC to DC charger--that's almost another lithium battery cost (depending on brand) I have older lead batteries and waiting for them to give up, then will change out to a complete house lithium system.

Ben, So I'm not the only one that doesn't grease that zerk every 6 months. 😀

I've done my own lubes for years and do a thorough inspection of frames and welds, oil leaks, etc. I know every zerk. Some are hard to see. I do have the manual Tom mentions above and use it. The only zerk that is a PITA to get to is on the steering column and I have to take the plastic cover off by the brake pedal. Of course my drive shaft always stops with the zerks pointed in the worst possible direction. I've considered going to the oil baths, but seems like I forget about it and another project takes the spotlight.

thanks Frank. We're in a very dry climate so I don't need to run the humidifier, but it does get hot. The garage is fully insulated. Well maybe I'll just peak at the wheel bearings and make a decision at that point as to repacking them. As I mentioned, last time we looked at them, the mechanic said repacking wasn't necessary.

thanks for the comments and suggestions. My manual says to repack the front wheel bearings annually or every 30k. Annually seems crazy often considering the low mileage we put on these. What have others done? I know the oil bath is an option.

Looking for comments about PM on the brakes, chassis in general. Coach has about 60k miles. We are original owners. Drives great, no complaints. I've done all the oil changes, chassis lubes, and basic maintenance myself. Removing wheels is a little more than I care to tackle myself. I did have the front wheel bearings repacked several years ago (mechanic said they really didn't need it, but we did it anyway) along with new shocks all around. I do 99% of driving and use the Jake as much as possible. Air bags are original and I visually check them regularly. Tires are only a couple years old. There are no leaks of any kind. I try to keep the undercarriage and engine area clean. Coach is kept indoors. I did replace a couple coolant hoses a few years ago when I changed out my overflow coolant tank since the old hoses were the wrong length. Most of the other hoses are original, but none are leaking. Before we leave on an extended trip in September, I was going to have my mobile mechanic come by and remove the wheels, check the brakes, slack adjusters, and do a good visual check since the wheels will be off. Will repack the front bearings as well. Any suggestions or things we should look for?

Did you put the new cartridge in before or after this issue? Depending on model, cartridge can go in reversed and will cause your problem, or the hot/cold could be reversed.

Richard, Does that slide have the Dewald auto slide locks that are mounted on the outside wall of the slide? When you pull them in, the mechanism will squeeze the top of the slide tight with the coach. If by chance you do, they do need lubing. If I let mine go too long, I will get that 'snap' you mentioned when extending slide out.

This is what I happened to use about 3 years ago, but there are others. I liked it because you can reposition it. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80638-Super-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HBI91E/ref=asc_df_B000HBI91E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312373636797&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15555845115531702864&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-571145433515&psc=1