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Gary M

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Posts posted by Gary M

  1. @Gary M

    EDIT NOTE. This is a FOLLOW UP.  Please do not start a new topic for a follow up.  This had to be Merged with the original as there is no continuity and  folks who were involved might not get the feedback, they richly deserve. End of Edit.

    Thanks to Peter Schweitzer and Kenneth Cox for info on my issue. Once spacer was installed it put the fan in the correct position to push all the air through the fan housing to the radiator instead of around the fan housing. 
    After the install I took coach from shop on 17 mile trek (1500 altitude) to my home base (5200 altitude) on a steady climb using 2nd thru 4th gear and engine max temp was 204 a couple of times for only maybe 15 seconds and averaged 196-199. 
    HAPPY DANCE!!!!!!!!

    • Like 1
  2. 20 hours ago, Gary M said:

    That’s just one problem! It doesn’t move. Need to get complete shaft out first. Literally no room for pullers. And it has to exit to the left with not enough room to do so unless I cut right side of shaft off. At least as far as I can see right now. I was hoping it was the plastic gear that usually fails but it was good.

    Got drive shaft and worm gearbox out finally. Had to cut a hole in engine cover to get it out. There was already a hole for plumbing etc. Just made it bigger. Apparently the worm gearbox only is sold with motor/gearbox. Not sure if the new and improved model will be a direct bolt up or not yet till I start talking to people Monday. Pics of what I had to do to remove worm gearbox.IMG_6165.thumb.jpeg.76443b78eb19b953d3822ac41f67daf3.jpegIMG_6168.thumb.jpeg.29a5e2b95293c51b351a491b119d2e13.jpegIMG_6170.thumb.jpeg.e071ca5fb55df69ebc1f40bc4a8f0b6d.jpeg

  3. 12 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

    You might pull the gear off and turn it around to get you by until you can find new. 

    That’s just one problem! It doesn’t move. Need to get complete shaft out first. Literally no room for pullers. And it has to exit to the left with not enough room to do so unless I cut right side of shaft off. At least as far as I can see right now. I was hoping it was the plastic gear that usually fails but it was good.

  4. I’ve seen posts on replacing the motor/gearbox on the bed slides but not any on the worm gearbox that attaches to the motor/gearbox. My motor/gearbox is ok, but I need the worm gearbox. Naturally it’s a Lippert part, but not sure if it can be purchased separately. Any info would be much appreciated. And still trying to figure out how to remove other half of worm gearbox still on shaft.

    09 Knight 38PKQIMG_6161.thumb.jpeg.42ae2b509457e63a0e01e2ea729ab52d.jpegIMG_6156.thumb.jpeg.322d122505cefe1975e3afac2ca6b152.jpegIMG_6160.thumb.jpeg.67cd71ba7c3f59f956f9352f18b24ce0.jpegIMG_6158.thumb.jpeg.fd8be822d0102764ecacb014350f15b0.jpeg

  5. 4 hours ago, Steve P said:

    It never occurred to me until this week.  Can anyone tell me for sure if there is one reservoir (side panel where a/c condenser is) or two (second would be in a location which is unknown to me).  Power Level jacks and two hydraulic slides... search of owners manual was not conclusive. 

    Although it does say ATF of a particular type was to be used, which I knew.... 

    Only one reservoir! U found it and that’s it.

  6. 1 hour ago, Jim McGarvie said:

    Installing a fan--or propeller--backward does not reverse the flow. It may make it less efficient, however.

    It was installed correctly except it needs the correct spacer so the fan is centered in the fan housing. Air is being pushed around housing instead of through it to radiator.

    2 hours ago, TomV48 said:

    Hey Gary   Where are you located or better what shop are you in.  And by all means let us know how it goes with them. 

     We will be following behind you up the 5 in about 2 1/2 weeks and will be running up to Keizer, OR Elks before we go toward the beach.

    May be stopping off in either Grants Pass, Coburg or Eugene for some maintenance work.   I figure it was made in Coburg so that area ought to have the places to fix her. 

     

    No wifi and bad cell reception right now. Hard to respond.

    Coach is at Oregon Truck and RV in Central Point. We were heading to 7 Feathers. Then over to Coos Bay Area. Our home base is Ashland, Oregon. After Coos Bay next stop is Desert Hot Springs, California for the winter.

    • Like 1
  7. 9 minutes ago, TomV48 said:

    I am thinking I would let them know right away.  One of their Dinosaur techs may not know how it was supposed to go.    I always watch or question, everything any one does for me.   Unless of course you want new and different  problems after you pull out of there. 

    I did let them know. The owner of the shop is personally overseeing the work with his own hands.. After they talked to Source Engineering, they were unaware of the issue and have never had a coach with this problem.

    They have been taking care of this coach and our previous coach since 2014.

  8. 7 minutes ago, PeterSchweizer said:

    I was emailing  with Jim at source engineering about my overheating issue and mentioned I saw your issue posted today. 

     

     You should contact him today.

    He commented that:

    #1- the source fan should be direct drive not on an clutch or thermostatic fan.

    #2 make sure when the fan was installed with the blades centered in the shroud edge- top to bottom and left to right

     

    Thankyou!! Just talked to Jim and relayed info to shop. But apparently other issues have been found also of which they will be calling me soon. Alternator is not spinning freely of which I complained about a squealing nose. And now apparently more issues and looks like we are going to have to go get meds and supplies out of coach.

    19 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

    Yeah, maybe it is under warranty?

    Jim at Source Engineering said Monaco stopped using the thermostat clutch and mine should not have one. If it does he said scrap it and hook directly to motor with a spacer. He has a PDF for proper installation. So I’m letting my shop know about this since they installed my new fan last year.

  9. After coach sitting for a year in one location, we headed north from Paradise, California to Central Point, Oregon. Outside temp 93 degrees. Every grade we had to pull, I had use gears manually and with a feather touch on the throttle to keep temperature down to 226 or less. One grade on 5 fwy going into Weed, California just before cresting to top of grade the temperature hit 228 and check engine light came on. As I hit the crest the temperature dropped to 226 and check engine light went out. 360 Hp Cummins , 09 knight, rear radiator and was cleaned two years ago. Coach is in shop and I’m being told my fan (new from Source Engineering) is not coming on. Isn’t a rear radiator fan driven by the belt?? So long as engine is running fan is turning??

    TIA on info.

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

    Here is the AC wiring diagram for 2006 Diplomat.  The outlets that are not on the Inverter are Highlighted in violet.  I have also highlighted the Inverter Circuits:  The Microwave is in Green and all the outlets are in yellow.  I hope this helps sort things out for you.

      -Rick N 

    2006 Diplomat AC Wiring.pdf 102.63 kB · 6 downloads

    I sent Jeff a 50 page 2006 wiring diagram from a friend who sold his coach. He’s good to go now. It may not be specific to his coach but should help.

    • Like 1
  11. 13 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Jeff,

    Lets see if I can summarize this.  We do NOT have the 2006 prints for the Diplomat, but I often download a set of prints so that I can work without constantly downloading.  I suggest you use this link and start downoading them all.  I have TWO files at the bottom.  One is the INDEX....IMPORTANT...and the other is the answer to your question.  Your manual also has this and I suggest you read it and also visit the main panel.  NOW here is Monaco & Magnum Circuit Explanation 101

    Your motor home has a main panel that gets power from one of two sources.  Generator or Shore.  The ATS and the source are then switched by the ATS to the main panel.  You have a main panel with several circuit breakers.  Concentrating on ONE.  That is the Inverter or the 30 Amp breaker.  This then sends power to the Magnum Inverter charger.  So there is a 30 Amp INCOMING line.  There are TWO OUTGOING circuits.  One is for the Microwave and is DEDICATED.  The other is for the GFCI that might be located under the sink in the Vanity in the hallway or it may be in the private bathroom.  There are ONLY TWO CIRCUITS that supply your MOST NEEDED INTERNAL POWER.  NOW....the GFCI is then the first PROTECTION point.  Code and Common Sense dictates that you have to have protection incase of a ground fault.  Think of being in the bathtub and a hair dryer falls in.  That is the OLD....How'd he DIE or someone killed him.  The GFCI in your home bathroom protects you from getting shocked or worse.  Therefore, any outlet in the MH that is within 5 feet of a water source (bathroom, vanity, sink) MUST be GFCI protected.  

    NOW...you may NOT know that there is an ATS in the Inverter.  SO, when you have a charged (doesn't need to fully) battery, the Inverter "senses" this and it is THAT DC power (House) that provides control power to the Magnum remote.  NOW, when the Inverter also "senses" that there is incoming power (120 VAC) from the Inverter Breaker, then the ATS allows all  30 amps to be distributed.  There are (probably) THREE Pin style circuit breakers on the outside of the Inverter.  30 amp for the INCOMING and TWO 20 Amp for the OUTGOING.  20 + 20 adds to 40.  BUT, for diversity or being able to get more power to one circuit, they are 20 Amp.

    When the inverter "senses" or actually DOESN'T Sense or measure 120 VAC, then it says....TIME TO GET TO WORK.  The Inverter then provides 120 VAC from the House batteries.  NOW, the Inverter is NOT as powerful as the incoming power.  SO, you have 30 amps or 3,600 Watts coming in.  BUT, the Inverter can ONLY provide a full 16 or 17 amps or 2000 Watts of power.  THUS, when you are boondocking or on Inverter, you have only 56% of the power you would have if you were on Shore or Genny.

    OK....GOT ALL THAT?  NOW...the only outlets that are powered are the Microwave and the ones downstream of the Inverter and the GFCI.  That is IT.  That is what, for your size and price range MH, is the standard.  If you had a Dynasty with TWO inverters...more power and MORE outlets.  For example a Prevost conversion MH or BUS...does not have but a small inverter.  If you want POWER...you crank the Generator.  Their Generator is maybe 2 or 2.5 times BIGGER (say 20 KW) than yours.  They don't have a large bank of House batteries...or so an owner showed me.  They depend on the Generator...

    OK...NOW look at the prints. Every OTHER outlet or device on the main panel does NOT GO THROUGH the Inverter.  Your washer/dryer, water heater, both AC's, block heater and a "Bedroom" outlet.  FOLKS complain that the Bedroom outlet SHOULD be on the inverter due to so many folks having C-Pap machines.  Later ON....or at least on my 2009, they changed that.

    SO, technically, you do NOT have ONE SINGLE 120 VAC outlet, which you ordinarily need, running FROM the Main Panel.  The 30 Amp inverter Breaker powers the Inverter.  Then the Inverter's output, whether from the incoming 30 amp or inverting, provides all the "essential AC power".  That is HOW it is and how most of us understand it. 

    If you look at the print, you can see that the outlets are marked as being on the Inverter.  Don't ask for an explanation of the print and the NEW design.  This is fundamentally WHY.  So, unless you spend a fortune have an electrician rewire your MH, if you want power in the Bedroom...use a #14 Gauge extension cord...

    Hope this helps.  if not, read the manual and look and follow and learn.  THEN ask questions.  YES, maybe only 25% of the folks (not our esteemed members here) even have a vague understanding of how this works.  BUT, this is it...

    End of class.  go out for recess.  LOL...

    I have a 50 page 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagram that I got from a friend. Not sure if it will help!!!!

    • Like 1
  12. 56 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

    Well....

    Our little girl Lilly went downhill quickly since I replied to this thread in April.

    We're on the road and had to have her put down today, half way thru the trip. Her rear legs went from stumbling a bit, to paralyzed within a month!

    She ate very little the last week, and nothing the last two day's, so, we were left with little options 😢!

    Young Vet had never seen a 18+ yr old dog!

    I guess u know I know what u are going thru.

    I am so sorry for your loss.❤️🙏

  13. This only my opinion! Jacks are for stabilizing not leveling. Level with whatever u choose under your tires then stabilize with jacks. Just my opinion. Smile 😀

     

    1- Pick as level of a spot as possible.

    2- Use whatever means of leveling your coach by placing supports under your tires to bring coach as level as possible while at ride height.

    3- Move slides out.

    4- Dump air or not.

    5- Lower jacks to stabilize.

     

    If not dumping air, you should also place supports under jacks so as to use minimum amount of fluid in reservoir.


  14. Such a deal for only, I said only $90. Missing Bobber level but will be replacing it soon. Only, I said ONLY E71ABF35-2DAE-487F-A546-AA2088E1120C.thumb.jpeg.58703de1cd110a9c6dfdb804f138256e.jpeg5A2C9B87-6112-4256-A9A5-B1178F70F30D.thumb.jpeg.4a8da770032c21577c849bbd0ebae09c.jpegused once for a month. 42 gallon tank. I’m saying this is such a deal. Don’t let it get away!!!! Bought new off Amazon for $250. Too expensive to ship, so local pick up only. Did I say ONLY again!! Currently in Paradise, California.

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