Gary M

Good luck with Shade Pro! Tried several times to get a dash cover. They never could get it right. Got a refund. But that’s just my personal experience.

Is this what u are looking for? It’s a Ramco mirror. I have a spare chrome damaged drivers side mirror with camera. Unfortunately it’s in Oregon and I won’t be back till summer.

https://www.ramco-eng.com/

1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:

If your 2008 ISL has never been reflashed with a software update, you might be running revision #14.  They are up to revision #52.  There were lots of small fixes in between. 

Any shop who has Insite software and the Cummins Incal (Calibration) disk can reflash to the latest software update. 

When the shop does it, ask them for a PDF file on your engine.  If they don't know how to generate one, ask for the two Insite EIF files (before and after the reflash).  If you send me the EIF files I'll convert them to pdf so you can read them.  These reports are about 50 pages each and give a complete history on the engine including the last 10 DPF regenerations, an engine abuse history report and how the coach has been driven since birth.  Also ask the shop to reset the trip function.  Then, the next time someone connects using Insite, you can see how you are driving the coach.

So Frank

you have my last ECM print-out. If you kept it. How does one know about when to get the reflash? When and how does Cummins notify one to go in and get it. Inquiring minds want to know. At least I do!!!!!

Gary

I had the same issue two years ago in my 09. Mobil mechanic came out , removed it in parts. Took it to a shop that specializes in cleaning DPF’s. Reinstalled and $1500 later it’s back in and running fine.

3 hours ago, frankogrly said:

I am trying to remove the bedroom sliding closet doors for better access to the engine through the hatch and can't seem to figure how. I guess I am getting dumber as I age. Any help would be appreciated.

Frank O

01 Endeavor

Some closet doors have a black plastic piece up at top that you have to loosen or remove to lift doors up and off.

39 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Excuse me, but I had sent the information of drilling a hole 2 hours before you posted. Sorry but you came in 2nd!  LOL

The other Gary 05 AMB DST

Oh geeze louise 😩

18 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

I was going to suggest that, but the Gary's beat me to it. LOL

Drill an 1/8" hole to mitigate the stress riser, and fill it with a dab of RTV.

Ha ha! I win 🏆 

2 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Would drilling a hole at the end of the fracture stop the crack from spreading?

Gary 05 AMB DST

That’s what I had to do. Hasn’t gone any farther in two years.

No problem. I am meeting my friend who is bringing my mail as I’m out of state.

Gary

8 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Did she rebuild the seats and if so, what was the cost? I've been considering her for a few years.

Gary 05 AMB DST

She bought all the patterns from Flexsteel for 2000 and up to when Flexsteel quit making furniture for RV’s. She made and sent me the covers and I had an ex Flexsteel installer put them on. $750 each chair an $600 to installer. Next I’d new covers for couch. Just happened to be in the area of the installer. So Cal.

We bought new Flexsteel covers last year for ours. We tried the Villa and were way too stiff. 

Just now, saflyer said:

OK, so have I found the snap disc? This is behind the wet bay panel.

I opened the heater and checked the fuse. It’s good. And I correct that the heater connector wires are red-positive power, black ground and small white in middle should be 12v positive from snap disc. I tried connecting red and white wires to positive on a battery and black to negative and nothing happened but I was just holding them by hand so I might not have made good contact.

That’s it!!! Jump the snap disc to see if it runs and heats up. Mine ran but did not heat till I changed the fuse.

12 hours ago, Steve P said:

I extended the step all the way out a couple of days ago, got my my lights out and got a good look at the underside.  I didn't tighten any screws or lubricate anything yet.  I want to avoid using any lubricant that might drip on the carpeted steps.  The other issue is contorting my body and the extended reach needed.  Still pondering...

So if you were able to extend it, now u can remove I believe 4 small screws to remove the front plywood. Once that is folded back, there are more screws holding top plywood. Yes u have to be patient and a contortionist. I bought a 90 degree attachment for my mini drill to get them out. Now retract unit and remove 2-4 sheet metal screws holding complete unit in place. Oh! Unplug power!!! Mine came in from left side. As I pulled unit straight out, it maxed out to door frame before I could tilt up to remove unit. U can email me and I can help over the phone if need be.

22 minutes ago, saflyer said:

If I could reach it. At best I could get one arm in there reaching through the hole left after removing the tank quantity indicator panel. But I couldn’t see anything at that point.

Mine is easy to access as it is on left wet bay wall just above water pump.

5 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Just went to coach and got some pics.First, the only thing I found behind the wet bay panel and on the plastic covering the frame rail (at least that’s what I think I’m looking at) is in the picture. The wires lead to something in a hole in the plastic cover. Could that be the snap disc? It doesn’t look like I expected. (First two images)

I then looked at the switch. So, should the light in the power switch illuminate any time the switch is in the on position and there be a light in the red panel below “ Active” come on if the snap disc closes and activates the wet bay heater?

Yes power should light up and then when temp gets below 40 degrees, active light then comes on. Take a bag of ice cubes and place on snap disc to activate. If all is well, this should happen. Follow what CBR46 said to test. I also had to replace power switch and active light at one point.

2 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

I do not know if it is in files. I have it saved on my laptop. Check your messages because I tried to sen it to you that way also. If not send me your email and I will try that. It is a adobe pdf file.

Got it. 😊 Added it to my 217 drawings.

1 minute ago, saflyer said:

Do you recall the title for the download by Tom Cherry you refer to? I went to downloads and searched for “Wet bay heater” and got nothing.

Thanks

Cargo Heater Repair in Most Downloads

4 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

Attached is wiring schematic for bay heater. Spray the snap disk with a can of air for cleaning computer key boards because it is cold enough to close it. There is a place you can send the heater for repair but I cannot find the name of them. They are listed as a safety company. Sent one there about 4 years ago and it cost $25 and came back looking brand new.

Bay Heater.pdf 55.58 kB · 3 downloads

Tried to download your file but can’t. Where is it in files. Thanks Gary 

Just now, Scotty Hutto said:

Correct for mobile devices. 

On a desktop, just click on “Browse” (right under the pic of Bill D’s rig), then click on “Downloads”

Yeah unfortunately mobile is what I have 99% of the time. Thanks for the knowledge!!!!

3 minutes ago, saflyer said:

How do I get to the files section of Monacoers?

Thanks,           
Ed

Tap 3 lines upper right corner/ browse/downloads

Mine wasn’t working when I bought our coach. Didn’t test it, just did the fix in the download section advised by Tom Cherry and now it work. The snap disc did fail later and replaced the disc. Bought this off eBay to house the new disc which doesn’t mount flush like the original.

10 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Gary, that's the front panel I mentioned earlier.  How was you able to remove it?  

Tom, we have 2 members going by Stephen P.   Might be a little confusing sometimes especially if they end up on the same thread.

Sorry for late response, on the road traveling. The front panel has I believe 4 screws on back side. They are short and I was able to remove it by force. Of course had to repair hole in ply to put back. The other option I have considered is to make a access panel where the motor is to rotate by hand when motor won’t rotate.

Did u ever send this manual. My friend collecting my mail has not received it.

Thanks Gary

4 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Thanks gents.   This is crazy.  I'll check for the FRB relays tomorrow.  I'm not really clear where the coil would be or what it looks like, but I will follow wires.   I have no clue whether this is air or electric (the 2008 Knight OM says air).  Like Tom says, there is no obvious way to remove the step cover.  Pressing and holding EXT clunks, but nothing moves.   I have a tiled floor above it.  My generator is not on a slide, so there's no getting behind it.  Unless there is an access cover buried underneath, I'm not going to get to the mechanism until I can get it to extend.  This is nuts.  I may buy a rubber mallet tomorrow and see if vibration helps (after the relays and coil checks).  I may even pull up the jacks a week early, crank 'er up and air up the system to see if that resolves the issue.  This  is really bugging me...

The power for the electric version goes in at the back of the box enclosure on passenger side. My gent doesn’t slide either. I also have tile over the boxed in area. I was able to remove front carpeted plate that u see as u walk into coach. Then there are but a couple of screws holding the whole unit in.

PS: What page in your manual says it’s air operated?

If your generator slides out you can access the motor by cutting an access hole in the bottom of the box that houses the mechanism.

Wish I was there to help you.

On 11/16/2022 at 7:32 PM, Steve P said:

I was going by what my owners manual says, but I guess it could be wrong.  We're leveled up on the hydraulic jacks, but I have no jack stands, so I'm not about to crawl underneath. 

Weird!!!! Too bad you are on the east coast. I’ve totally removed my step cover to maintenance on it. Motor in back drives center screw to operate.