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Posts posted by Gary M
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14 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:
A lot of folks get confused when they see the regen light come on. What it is telling you to do is to drive the coach under conditions so it can do a DPF regen. The light does not mean that a regen is actually being done. If the check engine light is on, in many cases, if the engine needs a regen, the light will turn on but it will never do a regen until the check engine light code is resolved. This is a bad situation because eventually the DPF will completely plug and you will get a Stop Engine light and engine shut down. So, don't run these engines with a check engine light on and expect a DPF regen to work. Also, conditions like driving under about 40 MPH, driving with the exhaust brake on, driving under full throttle, or low coolant temperatures will suspend the regen cycle. It's best to drive at highway speeds for the 30-60 minutes until the Regen light goes out.
On a Cummins engine, the engine computer decides when to do a regen based on either high exhaust pressure deltas before and after the DPF or about 100 hours of engine operating time since the last regen cycle whichever comes first.
Using the Cummins Insite software, you can see the history of the last ten regen cycles. When I did this on Tom's coach, they were all Normal soot loadings and about 100 hours between regen cycles.
One of the worst things you can do on a DPF engine is to idle them for long periods especially on slow idle. Start the engine, select fast idle to warm up and once up to temp, leave. Don't let the engine idle while you take 15 minutes checking into your campground or pulling into a rest stop and letting the engine idle for 30 minutes. Sure, a few minutes after a hard pull when stopping at a rest stop is what you should do, but once the oil in the turbo cools, shut off the engine.
Now, if you are driving primarily at highway speeds and you are seeing the regen light come on every 20-50 hours of engine run time, that is not normal and it should alert you to a problem that the engine is generating too much soot likely due to a potential fuel injector, EGR, or sticking VGT turbo even though the check engine light is not on yet. There are many shops out there that will focus on fixing a plugged DPF problem without first running the diagnostic tests to be sure that you don't have an injector, EGR or sticking turbo problem. They will say that no other codes came up and fail to do the complete diagnostic testing to be sure that other failures aren't generating soot without a check engine code showing up.
Keep in mind, that when driving at highway speed and feeding it the onions, the exhaust temps go up and you are in a mode of passive regeneration that actually is burning off some of the soot on the DPF. This doesn't happen at low idle where in many cases, not all cylinders are firing and soot builds up due to lower exhaust temps. That's why you don't want to idle a DPF engine for long periods.
Hi Frank
Quick question. My regen came on as I was heady out of mountains. Once I turned on exhaust brake (5000’ down to 1500’) light went out. Then came back on as I entered freeway. Stayed on for 15 miles then off. 15 miles at 60mph equals only 15 minutes. Is that enough time for a regen?
PS you deciphered my ECM recently. -
You need to drive it at highway speeds till it finishes it’s cycle.
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Depending on what’s wrong, I rebuilt mine not with Lippert parts. Got motor, shims, bushings, etc. from sources like eBay, Amazon and McMaster Carr. Rebuild kit for arms from Lippert were $250+. I paid maybe $50 or less I’m sure.
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I also have the Eclipse. There was a post on another website and if I remember correctly they had same problem. Somehow they hooked up a battery externally and got it to go out. Wish I could be more help. But now I am definitely interested in the answer to this issue.
Since. Monaco use’s grounds to complete the circuit, maybe the ground for extending is not a good ground.
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There are some ITC 3”pucks on EBay.
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I take it u do not have the wiring diagram’s for your coach. Check our download files to see if anyone had posted a copy. If you hook up to at least 110 AC your onboard charger/ inverter should pump your batteries up if they are still good.
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38 minutes ago, LakinZ said:
The fastest way to get the correct RV window glass replacement is by measuring your old window’s dimensions, especially its thickness. If it is unsafe to measure the shattered glass window or the glass is no longer whole, you can ask an RV glass replacement company for a suitable replacement. You might want to be ready with your window’s dimensions and your vehicle’s VIN, year, model, and make.
Thanks Zoe
Still have my shattered window in place. Once I get home I found a possible source for complete window with correct radius’s. Two windows for less than the cost of making just a new glass to go back into existing frame.
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Excellent news!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
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Headlights and taillights come from standard trucks and cars.
Try headlightsdepot.com or https://www.amerilite.net/tail-lights.html?p=2Get DOT number off taillights and enter it on the internet.
DOT numbers on mine translate to 2003-2006 Chevy Silverado.
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I don’t have a Camelot, but most rollers can be accessed by jus jacking up the slide. Just make sure you have room and disconnect any mechanism.
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46 minutes ago, KenAVTech said:
I appreciate all the inputs, but Im wanting the measurements of screw hole to screw hole.
The dimensions will help me determine if the Fantastic flat brackets will accommodate a Maxxair fan cover
Every Maxxair manual I looked at online shows brackets mounting not to base, but to side wit L brackets.
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2 hours ago, SteveC said:
Gary,
RV black and grey water tanks are made from ABS plastic. Epoxy and sealers do a poor job of sticking to ABS. Repairs to ABS use ABS plastic sheeting or shavings and either melt the materials together using heat or chemicals.
I suggest you remove all the white sealer around the joint and determine if it is cracked and broken. I had a fifth wheel black tank that had a crack on the drain neck. The previous owner had filled the crack with epoxy and sealer but it still leaked. I used Plasti-mend with ABS mesh. Search for ABS repair kits and Plasti-mend kits.
Good luck.
Thankyou.
I just remembered when I lived on a sailboat, I made a drip pan out of ABS. I cut some ABS on my tablesaw and took the shavings, mixed I think with acetone and made a ABS glue and to put it together with. So yes I will remove to see what’s cook’n.
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10 hours ago, Valentino said:
Hi everyone, I bought a beautiful 2004 Sanitiam about 8 months ago and I love it. My wife and I are spending a lot of time and money to customize it to our taste, in a few months we would like to leave Miami for 6-8 months of vacation throughout the USA and then embark for Europe where we will spend another 6-8 months. I (think) can solve any problem with my RV, except a big problem that I don't know how to solve. The frame that supports the various baggage compartments is completely rotten, falling apart. I was thinking of having new sleepers welded underneath but it seems like a bad job. Unfortunately here in Miami I don't find a valid chassis shop that can give me the right support, so I ask you, if anyone has already faced this problem. thank you
Have you searched the posts here? There was someone who had your issue and removed existing and welded together new.
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On 7/25/2022 at 6:18 PM, mu2drvr@aol.com said:
Thanks to Gary M for steer to Oregon Light Truck and RV. They were able to separate the pulley from the frozen bearing. Left it with them to work further to remove frozen bearing from shaft. They will then try to source the bearing and rebuild my original part. Cautiously optimistic …
Excellent!!!!!!
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3 hours ago, mu2drvr@aol.com said:
UPDATE: I have driven the coach into the Medford Oregon area. Cheated the alternator by jumping house batteries to chassis batteries and running generator. Continuing the parts sourcing rodeo. Anyone have a machine shop recommendation in the Medford area? I want to further investigate reworking the original spindle, bearing, and pulley.
Thanks for all suggestions
Steve
Gary: I haven’t signed up for Quickserve. Too late now ??
Steve
Your in my territory now. Ashland/Medford. My coach is taken care of by Oregon Light Truck and RV.
8632 Crater Lake Hwy
White City OR 97503
1 (541) 830-8005Maybe they know of a shop.
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On 7/20/2022 at 8:05 AM, mu2drvr@aol.com said:
2005 Signature, Cummins ISM. After stopping for the day (Redding CA), discovered alternator belt broken. Further investigation found pulley to right of alternator had seized bearing. Took mount and pulley to Freightliner for bearing replacement. BAD NEWS: when bearing seized it welded the itself to the spindle mount. Also hogged out inside of pulley. Cummins has told me they can't identify these parts as they were provided / installed by Monaco. REV group was unable to access their Monaco system for tech reasons all day, so no help there yet. Freightliner shop told me this mount would be called a 'fan drive" if it were mounted in a truck. You can see on the pulley where a fan would be installed. In the coach application all this pulley does is rout the alternator belt down to the crankshaft. No response yet from salvage yards. What initially looked like a simple repair has turned into a parts sourcing nightmare. Any ideas ??
Thanks,
Steve A
2005 Signature, Cummins ISM
2020 Ford Escape Hybrid
I just got off phone with Cummins on a different matter. Told them about your situation and that part should show up in QuickServe if you have signed up for it. I searched for mine ant it had an exploded view with part numbers.
I have an 07 EPA 360 HP Cummins. -
8 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
Gary, it is my understanding that the pulley was used to mount a fan when the engine is mounted normally in a truck that had a front mounted radiator.
So that is a Cummins part! And I assume not available. I’ve had to repair many frozen bearings to pulleys in my line of work. Soak um and heat pulley while pressing bearing out. Worse thing is ya destroy pulley but the worst for me was to take pulley to machine shop and bore out and re-sleeve. But he’s kinda stuck.
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I’m asking the rest of you a dumb question.
So that pulley and mount is something that Monaco had to have made and is not part of the Cummins engine?
Inquiring minds want to know.
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52 minutes ago, Rgoodman said:
Gary, did you sell it yet? If not I would like to buy it
JD Crow has first bid and he is just trying to find time to pick it up.
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14 minutes ago, JDCrow said:
Yeah we are going to pick it up. Need to find some time off work!
Still sitting in the garage.
2011 Holiday Rambler Ambassator with the Maxxforce engine. The Regen light is on - Now what.
in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
Posted
I did shut off the exhaust brake once getting down the the 5 fwy. Just curious with exhaust brake on, does that have anything to do with the initial stopping of the regen cycle?