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Gary M

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Posts posted by Gary M

  1. 10 minutes ago, Steve P said:

    I was working on my laptop in the passenger seat today at a Campground and it dawned on me how great it would be to be able to rest my feet on the step cover and use the pull out desk for my 2nd monitor.  Obviously, since the step operates by air pressure, it doesn't seem possible.  Does anyone know of a trick that could make the step operate?  The step cover switches just go "clunk" of course and the step doesn't move. Any ideas? 

    (I know it might also be disabled to keep someone such as a child from opening the door and falling the extra 18" to the ground and the potential for a lawsuit, so let's not go down that rat hole.)

    Are u sure yours operates off air? Air operated ones are usually installed in higher class coaches. Mines electric. The schematics for the electric like mine are in the downloads.

  2. Can anybody tell me if the exterior wall sit on top of constructed floor or do the actually mount to the floor framework instead next to constructed floor. Reason for asking is after 5 days of rain, bed slide side carpet was wet. Had issue in this area before but fixed it. Previous leak was water running down slide seals and not exiting outward because two plastic OEM “drain buckets” were filling up and draining inwards instead of out. Checked those and they were dusty and dry.

    But I’m wondering if water that is running down wall is getting into metal frame of the slide hole and going into wall and then to my floor since I do see separation of vertical frame from wall. The pic is at very 3” of bottom of slide metal frame. Have caulking on order but may not get to me by the time we leave for holidays. So I will be covering coach till we get back home in January. Hoping the RV cover works. Plan on selling coach next year so don’t need any bad issues.

     I assume walls must be placed on top of floor but I’m only assuming. Thanks for any input.

    Oh and my flush floor slide has same issue but no water intrusion. I will post later about why do I have to push  in on wall to squeeze caulk in between to seal. 

    image.thumb.jpg.560527a1dd67112053a812296534c637.jpg

  3. There is a company that imports RV Windows with supposedly the 2-1/2” radius that Atwood made before radius’s were changed to 3”. They ship out of NC and CA. I’m trying to get to there warehouse in Chino to actually see product. Not sure when though. 

    RV-Murts RV Window Replacement 

  4. 10 hours ago, saflyer said:

    Shutoff valves at the washer connection end or where they connect to the main water line under the coach? I’ve opened a side panel to see my tanks and mist of the plumbing. It’s a lot more complicated than you’d think. If it’s very expensive to isolate the water lines I probably won’t do it. Fact is except in winters lake the last two my hangar, where I store the coach, stays warm enough to not winterize. Usually I only winterize if the RV has to go to the shop for repairs in late fall. 

    I luckily have the plumbing diagrams for my coach. Both Pex and hard plumbing.

  5. 53 minutes ago, Chad A said:

    Pardon my ignorance but no Manobloc in your coach?  I have a hot and cold shut off for the washer on mine at the manobloc. 

    Ambassadors and Knights are too low on the totem pole to rate manoblocs.

    3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

    First question - line coming out of the top of the white freshwater tank is your overflow line. it allows excess water to flow out when you overfill the tank.

    Second question - the line feeding the black water tank is your Black Water Tank Back Flushing System. There should be a location in your service bay where you can hook a hose up and back flush the black water tank.

    Can't help you with your disconnect question.

    The last photo shows what is typically called a Vacuum Backflow Valve. Not sure why it would be hooked to HOT water (red pex). They are typically used for the Black Tank Back Flush System.

    My 09 knight is plumbed the same with red Pex but it cold water.

  6. Info on bushings and shims for my Lippert two step.
     

    McMaster Carr
    562-692-5911

    562-695-2323 (fax) la.sales@mcmaster.com

     

    1677K325 1.28 each
    Ultra-Low-Friction Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, Flanged, for 3/8" Shaft Diameter and 1/2" Housing ID, 3/8" Long

    90482A313 11.08 per pack
    1074-1095 Spring Steel Ring Shim, 0.015" Thick, 3/8" ID, packs of 25

     

  7. 3 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

    Do you have a picture/link to the bushings you got? Where they the 2 step or 3 step model (don't know if that makes any difference to the motor) I was thinking bushings as well based on my lawnmower rear drive wheel problems that always seem to end up with the rear wheel bushings.

    I will look for the info and post. The bushings are a hair too long but I just placed them in the arm with shims needed and cut extra off. I got my info from a write-up either here or another site.

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