-
Posts
664 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Articles
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Store
Posts posted by Gary M
-
-
-
Can anybody tell me if the exterior wall sit on top of constructed floor or do the actually mount to the floor framework instead next to constructed floor. Reason for asking is after 5 days of rain, bed slide side carpet was wet. Had issue in this area before but fixed it. Previous leak was water running down slide seals and not exiting outward because two plastic OEM “drain buckets” were filling up and draining inwards instead of out. Checked those and they were dusty and dry.
But I’m wondering if water that is running down wall is getting into metal frame of the slide hole and going into wall and then to my floor since I do see separation of vertical frame from wall. The pic is at very 3” of bottom of slide metal frame. Have caulking on order but may not get to me by the time we leave for holidays. So I will be covering coach till we get back home in January. Hoping the RV cover works. Plan on selling coach next year so don’t need any bad issues.
I assume walls must be placed on top of floor but I’m only assuming. Thanks for any input.
Oh and my flush floor slide has same issue but no water intrusion. I will post later about why do I have to push in on wall to squeeze caulk in between to seal.
-
Leave the arm bolt in but loose keeping most of threads in and tap on bolt upwards to loosen tapered design. Two people should do this. One holding arm and one driving up bolt.
-
-
Wellllll!!! How did it go???? All good!
-
Easy peasy!!! If u don’t have the small black plastic glide locks, then just lift up and get bottom out of track, then pull top towards you and there out. Weight uh maybe 15 lbs.
- 1
-
-
There is a company that imports RV Windows with supposedly the 2-1/2” radius that Atwood made before radius’s were changed to 3”. They ship out of NC and CA. I’m trying to get to there warehouse in Chino to actually see product. Not sure when though.
RV-Murts RV Window Replacement
-
-
10 hours ago, saflyer said:
Shutoff valves at the washer connection end or where they connect to the main water line under the coach? I’ve opened a side panel to see my tanks and mist of the plumbing. It’s a lot more complicated than you’d think. If it’s very expensive to isolate the water lines I probably won’t do it. Fact is except in winters lake the last two my hangar, where I store the coach, stays warm enough to not winterize. Usually I only winterize if the RV has to go to the shop for repairs in late fall.
I luckily have the plumbing diagrams for my coach. Both Pex and hard plumbing.
-
53 minutes ago, Chad A said:
Pardon my ignorance but no Manobloc in your coach? I have a hot and cold shut off for the washer on mine at the manobloc.
Ambassadors and Knights are too low on the totem pole to rate manoblocs.
3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:First question - line coming out of the top of the white freshwater tank is your overflow line. it allows excess water to flow out when you overfill the tank.
Second question - the line feeding the black water tank is your Black Water Tank Back Flushing System. There should be a location in your service bay where you can hook a hose up and back flush the black water tank.
Can't help you with your disconnect question.
The last photo shows what is typically called a Vacuum Backflow Valve. Not sure why it would be hooked to HOT water (red pex). They are typically used for the Black Tank Back Flush System.
My 09 knight is plumbed the same with red Pex but it cold water.
-
I do have a disc but never took the time to see what was on it. Title was something like RV driving explanations. Unfortunately is back in Oregon about 6hrs away. Forgot to put my box back in the coach. Duh!!!!
-
Ambassadors are probably too low on the totem pole for a manabloc. Ambassadors are equal to Knight’s and mine came with shut off valves.
-
-
-
1 hour ago, house2go said:
Sounds good to me. Send me info where to send it.
Paul had two
Gary Mathis
2010 Hyatt Prairie Rd
Ashland, OR 97520
Check, Venmo, PayPal, Zelle for payment.
-
Yup! Been there, done that!!!!
- 1
-
I’ll take it and turn it into a PDF and upload to this site. I’ll pay for postage. Let me know. I’ll take it.
-
Send it to Frank McElroy so as to be able to turn into a PDF for downloading.
-
You did good. That info should go to Frank McElroy to put in the next update in our parts list.
-
Info on bushings and shims for my Lippert two step.
McMaster Carr
562-692-5911562-695-2323 (fax) la.sales@mcmaster.com
1677K325 1.28 each
Ultra-Low-Friction Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing, Flanged, for 3/8" Shaft Diameter and 1/2" Housing ID, 3/8" Long90482A313 11.08 per pack
1074-1095 Spring Steel Ring Shim, 0.015" Thick, 3/8" ID, packs of 25 -
3 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:
Do you have a picture/link to the bushings you got? Where they the 2 step or 3 step model (don't know if that makes any difference to the motor) I was thinking bushings as well based on my lawnmower rear drive wheel problems that always seem to end up with the rear wheel bushings.
I will look for the info and post. The bushings are a hair too long but I just placed them in the arm with shims needed and cut extra off. I got my info from a write-up either here or another site.
-
I rebuilt mine as the bushings and motor was shot. Ouch! On your motor cost. Got mine off eBay for $35. Lippert wanted almost $250 for bushing kit. Got my bushings and shims at McMaster Carr.
-
I have an 09 Knight and I can see all sensor’s from the wet bay.
Step cover operation while parked
in General Motorhome Discussion
Posted · Edited by Gary M
Are u sure yours operates off air? Air operated ones are usually installed in higher class coaches. Mines electric. The schematics for the electric like mine are in the downloads.