I probably should have clarified my original comment about visiting Buc-ee's a little better.  I only stop there for the sandwiches and snacks and not for diesel fuel.  The pumps at the Daytona location are way to tight to get through for us.  At the very far end of the line of pumps 'may' be doable but nothing I would want to try.  I plan ALL of our trips in advance using RV Trip Wizard and even use that to plan out where all the T/A's are for my fuel stops.  The Open Roads app on my phone even shows me the discounted fuel prices at T/A, Petro and Love's.

As Andy mentioned above you'll find them a lot more crowed at meal times and on the weekends, especially on Sundays (seems like it's the place to go after church).  I haven't had the opportunity to visit the one in St Augustine, Fl yet so I don't know how it compares to the one in Daytona but would be interested to know if anyone else has visited both.

I have been into Buc-ee's in Daytona, Fl (I-95), Florence, SC (I-95) and Robertsdale, AL (I-10) with our 45' Exec towing my F-150 (70 ft long).  Yeah they're a little tight but doable.  I just peruse the far outskirts of the parking lots for an empty area, which I can usually find.  I try an avoid any 'rush hour' times.  I did hit one at a bad time once (not sure which one) where there were no empty areas so after twice around I spotted and empty row of fuel pumps at the very end and pulled in there and parked.  After we came out with our meals I finally was able to pull over into an empty area close by.  Their parking lots have room but you just have to be cool dealing with the traffic.  I've found that generally everyone gets out of our way and smiles at our coach as we pass by. 🙂

On 4/26/2023 at 11:19 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Mike,

Did you look on the existing filter.  I checked your manual.  YES...it says R950011.  That is what mine says.  I think that the P number is just some wrong information.  Here are the part numbers that I have.... and I KNOW they work.

Baldwin BA3574 - I TRUST BALDWIN....yes...I used them for the engine air filter

Fleetguard AF27817 - Again, I run these OEM Cummins parts...of course

Donaldson P953571 - Same as Baldwin....I have run their air filters.

Bendix 109994 - This is in the Parts List....and I would trust Bendix, since they invented or are the daddy rabbit in air brakes....

I TOTALLY agree with you.  Buy a NAME brand....  FWIW, during my research, which I added two part numbers to my own records....I ONLY found the Donaldson on Amazon for $60.  NAPA gets over $100 for one of them.  GO FIGURE.  Any of the FOUR aftermarket Brands or NOT OEM above, IMHO, will be trustworthy.

NOW, if you are a "Curious CUSS", Call Wabco and ask them for the NEW (I think there may be at least 4) PN that replaced or will work just as well as the R950011.  If you do that, then please contact @Frank McElroy.  He is the Parts Guru....and will update the Parts List.  

Frank, I have used the above part numbers for the R950011.  I DID look them up and the 2008 Dynasty has the same number as my 2009 Camelot...so it seems pretty universal.  You can add them.

Mike....that's it.  I agree with Ben, I THOUGHT I had seen the WABCO on Amazon....but right not, it is AWOL...

Tom, I called WABCO Technical Support this morning and they told me the new part number for the R950011 has been changed to 4324209232.  Distributers are really proud of them.  I saw prices as high as $163 ! and that's just for the filter.  I gig find one on Anything Truck ( https://www.anythingtruck.com ) for $96.13.  Then they want $15.09 for shipping and $5.73 sales tax.  Bottom line is I ordered one shipped for $117.95.

BTW; I can't get under my coach right now to look at the existing filter.  I'm having a problem with the Manual side of my HWH leveling system.  AutoLevel and Travel modes work fine but I can't manually raise it.  Coach wants to come up crooked.  I made an appt with Barry at JOSAMs to see if they can fix it.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

There is an opening in the Tyron Bands where the two ends are connected together that would allow for any beads that happen to get under the bands to fall out once the tire starts to rotate after being at rest. The beads are not distributed completely until the speed of the vehicle gets to about 25-35 mph.

Taken from the Innovative Balancing Website. -  "The balancing principle is based on centrifugal force, and enough force is developed to keep the beads in position at approximately 25 - 35 MPH, but the exact speed is dependent upon tire diameter."

There are spacers on the back/inside of the bands that hold them off of the rim.

1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

Won’t the beads get trapped underneath the Tyron Bands in the wheel cavity? Seems to me it could. 

Dyna Beads were in the steer tires with the Tyron Bands when I replaced the tires.  I didn't see any evidence of any beads caught up in the bands.  The beads are actually slung away from the bands when traveling  and just drop to the bottom of the tire when stopped.  I talked with Chuck Thatcher about that and also with the folks out at Innovative Balancing and neither had heard of anyone having issues using the beads with the bands.

BTW;  The beads come in a very thin, paper/tissue like bag (sort of like what Happy Camper comes in) that you just drop into the tire before it's aired up and comes apart once the tire starts rotating to let the beads disperse.

On 4/21/2023 at 5:15 PM, David Pratt said:

On my 05 Exec I had Michelin 315R80x22.5  and the TYRON BANDS and also the 12oz Dynabeads in the steer tires and Dynabeads in all the rear tires. I never had any issues with the Dynabeads and TYRON BANDS in the 13 years we owned the coach. The new owner of the Exec still has that combination and has never had any issues either.

My Foretravel ih-45, had Dynabeads and TYRON BANDS also in the steers. All the other tire just the Dynabeads. In February, I replaced the steer tires and decided to try the Balance Masters instead of the Dynabeads. I had no Balance issues with the Dynabeads and still have no balance issues with the Balance Masters. I still have the Dynabeads in all the rear tires and the coach rides just as smooth and vibration free as before.

I cannot speak for the Centramatics, but they work on the same principal as the Balance Masters and other members have posted that the Centramatics perform the same.

Just my opinion, but I would definitely stay away from the external balance weights if possible.

 

And in the past 4-1/2 yrs, 40,000 miles have been logged on that coach with it driving like my pickup truck. 

You can also just contact https://www.innovativebalancing.com/  and they’ll tell you what you need for your tires and you can buy them directly from them.  They were very helpful when I talked with them.  I saved some of the old beads and packaged them in ziplock bags after I weighed out 12 oz.  I wanted to carry some with me just in case I had to have a flat repaired somewhere.  You can buy them packaged for your particular tire configuration. From my quick review of the Balance Masters they do cost a little more but really not that much, especially since you can reuse them when new tires are needed.  This will be the ONLY way I will go when I have new tires installed and I suspect I will be adding the Balance Masters as well.  I thought there might be a problem with them with the TYRON bands on the steer tires but I have not had any issues at all with them.  I sold the old 295 tires to a logging trucker for $120 each but the 315's were an 'odd' size for them to use.  The Balance Masters appear to be in the $200 - $240 range and due to the many different type rims, bolt patterns, bolt hole sizes etc. I would recommend contacting them directly (https://www.balancemasters.com/motorhomes) to assure you are getting the correct ones for your particular coach.

I checked my manual and it gives a MERITOR WEBCO filter # P950011.  When I searched on line I keep coming up with this TORQUW 950011 filter for $40.  Is this one of those Chinese filters?  If so, then where is everyone finding their WEBCO filters?  BTW, my manual says to replace every 2-3 years and I'm way overdo.

Interesting conclusions.  I had a very informative conversation with the tech folks at Interstate Batteries several year ago about that and they said they only used Di-ionized water.  At the time I was inquiring about at what level of purity the Di water needed to be and they said they keep their battery water supply to less than 20ppm (20 TDS).  It's all of the contaminates in the water, even distilled water and even soft water that raises havoc with flooded batteries.  You can't be 'too pure'.  I have my own Di Rinse filter that makes Di-ionizing water.  I have since 'upgraded' to AGM batteries so it's of no concern to me now but I do use the Di water as a final rinse when washing our coach.  I have even used it when washing our house windows for nice spot free windows.  The only 'bad' thing about Di water is that you can't drink it.

I pulled out my 8 Interstate flooded batteries 2 years ago and installed 8 Duracell AGM's from SAM's Club ($179 ea).  I got tired of having to top off the Interstates EVERY MONTH!  It would take just short of 1 gallon of Di water to top them off plus having to deal with the corrosion factor.  I've been real happy ever since.  I may boondock maybe once or twice a year is all.  I do recommend the PowerPulse Battery Maintenance system as they do extend the life of your batteries ($35 - $55).  I have one across the two starter batteries and one on each bank of the 4 house batteries.  Now all I have to do is check the tightness of the battery terminals once a month.

I have to ask the question "Why are you disconnecting the battery".  I've been towing my 2012 and 2019 F-150's for five years now and have never disconnected the battery.  Are you running an Air Force One auxiliary braking system, if not then how are you powering up your braking system?

4 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Mike, a rotten egg smells like sulfur. That can come from either a gas leak, a bad sewer leak or even possibly out-gassing of batteries.

She was smelling it up by the front entrance so I know it's not batteries but the LP tank is right there so that's why I thought she might have been smelling a gas leak.  I can't smell anything but me claiming it's her imagination doesn't seem to be the correct answer.  I borrowed a gas sniffer and haven't been able to find a leak and if there is a leak I can't imagine it to be an intermittent leak.  It's either going to leak or not.  I can't recall if we had been to any Mexican restaurant around that time.

My wife has been on me complaining about a faint rotten egg odor and has had me chasing a possible LP gas leak.  I can't find any gas leaks and I don't detect any odors.  Now I wonder if I've been chasing the wrong source.  Does the holding tank odor smell like 'rotten eggs'?  I would have expected something worse.

14 minutes ago, Chad A said:

 

I replaced with a pioneer.  Single din but big screen. 

Chad,  What model Pioneer did you buy and also, does it have one or two video inputs?

I'm in the same boat looking to replace my old Kenwood KVT-M700.  It has to be a single DIN though so I can't use the one you got Scotty.  I've looked at a BOSS BE9ACP-C (~$300)  ,  A SONY XAV-AX8100 (~$600)  ,  A Pioneer DMH-WT7600NEX (~$1200)  ,  and also a ATOTO F7 XE (F7G110XE)  $???.  These have a video input but I don't know if I need a dedicated rear view camera input or just a video input or both.  I've never heard of a BOSS or ATOTO unit so know nothing about them.

Chris Leedle, let us know how it works out.  I'm curious to hear if it saves any time and how easy it is to set up.  I might do the same thing.

The biggest reason for getting a water softener wasn’t for washing my hair and taking showers, it was to protect the water system in our coach.  I used to manage a fishing camp for several years here in Central Florida.  We had a well and a Culligan water softener system.  Even though Culligan serviced their system once a month they still didn’t take real good care of it.  When my new $4,000 ice machine quit working I had a service guy come and look at it.  He found about a 2 ft long 1/2” tygon hose in it that was completely blocked with crud.  It looked like someone had poured concrete through it.  We had to beat on it with a hammer to break it up to clear the hose.  After hearing about how bad/hard the water can be out west the last thing I wanted to happen was to have any of that crud building up in our coach plumbing.  Yes I know, it won't happen overnight but over time, and not a real long time, it can impact your plumbing.  Probably more for full timers. 

I sleep a little better now making sure ALL of the water that goes into our fresh water tank goes through our On-The-Go water softener.  Yeah, it’s a little more work to set it up but I’ve learned I really don’t have to connect to the campground water every time we stop for a night or two but when we do it goes through the water softener.  I also use one of those blue Camco water filters right after my pressure regulator at the campground spigot and then we have house carbon and a sediment filters in our wet bay and of course another filter in our refrigerator.

We have no problem at all brushing our teeth or drinking water from our refrigerator dispenser.

Chris,  I have the On-The-Go water softener and yeah it is a little PIA pouring salt into it.  Wouldn't the Pro Aqua regeneration kit work the same way with the On-The-Go unit?

For spot free rinsing I use a Di Rinse Pro 50 system and carry both it and my water softener strapped to the wall of one of my bay compartments. ( https://rv-mods.com/store/DI-Pro-50D-p105868875 ).  I've had both for several years now and they have worked well.  In fact I just ordered my first refill bag of Di resin about an hour ago after using it for about 4 years.  It sure makes washing our coach and cars much easier plus I was using it for topping off my flooded batteries every month until I went to AGM's a year ago.  This is the bracket I used for securing the bottles in my bay compartment ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M3NH4NJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) .

Paul, When mine started to fail I discovered that PREVOST used that same light that came on my '05 Exec.

3 hours ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

Your coach should have come with two slide locks to keep that from happening if the hydraulics fail.

Ours came in crooked a couple years ago and I ended up replacing all the hoses and having the synchronizing cylinder and front and rear rams rebuilt.  I also relocated the sync cylinder to a more accessible location in the basement overhead.  Luckily, the slide didn't get stuck, it just jammed up the inside facia trim around the slide box. While I was reading all the literature about replacing the hoses and rams, I found a short blurb that said you shouldn't reverse the direction of travel without fully extending or retracting the slide.  I never knew that.

I've heard that as well but don't really understand why and I know I have been guilty of that in the past.  After we got it all repaired and took a Fall trip up north I noticed Hyd fluid on our driveway when we got back home and had to have all of the passenger side slide cylinders rebuilt.  Luckily nothing was damaged that time other than my wallet again.

Last June right after we returned from Death Valley the synchronizing cylinder for the driver side slide blew a seal.  I wasn't paying attention while trying to retract it and the slide tried to come in crooked and ended up getting bound up part way in.  couldn't extend it back out or move it at all.  It sat in our driveway and took almost 2 months before I finally got help to get it straight and back in.  Lazydays pulled all 3 of the hyd cyl's out so I could get them rebuilt and reinstalled.  Because nothing was labeled on the pump wiring or solenoids, that slowed the trouble shooting process.  I ended up making a chart identifying what each solenoid was for and stapled it to the bottom of the step access cover.  Next step I plan on labeling all of the wiring.  You'll notice that when the slides are extending the cylinders are retracting.  I just thank GOD this didn't happen while we were camping out in Death Valley !  BTW, it cost $110/cyl to have them rebuilt but the Lazydays bill was just under the 5 figure mark!  Fortunately they didn't have to remove the slide but did have to repair the damage to it.

RV - Stabilizer Jacks - $40

For sale, two new RV Stabilizer Scissor Jacks. $40 for the pair.

Extends from 5-1/2" to 24"

I will bring them to the Gathering only if someone is interested in them.

Paul,  Now you're making me get in line to upgrade my cameras but I need to get a decent monitor first in order to take advantage of the higher resolution.  My biggest gripe about the rear camera is sun glare on the lens.  On a cloudy overcast day I have a good image.  We may need to think about some sort of sun shade for the rear camera or modifying the camera housing or maybe a polarizing filter in front of the camera lens.

My wife, Denise, is interested in going to see the aquarium, for now, but may change her mind later for some of the others.  She doesn't want to drive though.

We were at Parkesdale Farm Market a couple of weeks ago and got a little sticker shock.  Their milkshakes have gone from $2.50 in 2021 to $2.75 last year to $4.50 this year.

I have a Roadmaster towbar I will bring if anyone is interested.  Just make me an offer.  It includes everything except for a base plate.    It wouldn't be cost effective to try and ship it.

ALSO, If anyone has any old NON-WORKING Faria gages from an early to mid 2000 Exec or Sig (like the ones in the photo)  I would be interested in them.