Dennis N - 2005 Windsor

8thdegree Warren, Sounds like you understand the dual filament and the difference in bulbs. Typically the bulbs will only go in and turn the lock if they are incorrectly; if they are hard to turn, pull them out, rotate them 180° and try again. You might swap two bulbs that are behaving differently and see if the difference follows the bulb or stays with the socket. Reference;. "Would you happen to know if there is a relay that controls those bulbs? If so, where should I look for it??" I have a 2005 Windsor and I believe the relays are in in the driver side front run bay under the driver's window. Not sure where you might find yours. Sorry, I can't help anymore! I

8thDegree, You may have already discovered this, but be aware that the 1157 bulb is a two filament bulb and it's not interchangeable with the 1156 bulb. That is why they don't fit well and why you're getting one filament or the other lighting up. If you look at the end of the 1156 bulb, it has one point electrical connection. The 1157 bulb will have two and has a casing with nubs that restrict how it is inserted into the socket. Look into the socket and you should clearly see one electrical connection or two electrical connections in the base of the socket.

"the slide when 'at rest' seems to allow for the gear teeth so sit on the aluminium support." This looks low to me. Open your storage bay door and you can see the gear and track mechanism above the storage area. While looking at that, have someone activate the slide and see if there is any excess movement in any of the components. Another thing to look for - There is a long shaft that connects the gears to the motor, and I have had the bolt that connects sections of the shaft shear off. Just before it shears off, it wears enough to create slop in the shaft movement. That slop will cause one side of the slide to start moving in or out before the other, and that misalignment will create a little extra drag.

Just to make sure you are aware, the hydraulic fluid level should be checked with all the slides in. The pump pumps it out of the reservoir into the slide cylinders, and when you retract the slides it pumps it back into the reservoir. If you fill the reservoir when the slides are out, when you pull them in it will overflow.

Thanks everyone for the comments - for tailgating at University of Florida we are able to pull into the designated parking lot on Friday evening and stay untill Sunday noon - with the hour and a half drive, it ends up 60 to 70 hours on the Generator. And I would like to see anyone convince my wife she can survive the Florida sun without A/C 24/7! Trying to make it easier for myself, so additional generator is not the direction to go for me... I will do some research on synthetic oils - I have stuck with the recommended oils and change intervals (150 hrs) because I want to keep it going for another 3000 hours; I didn't think of going synthetic - I am aware some older engines (this is a 2005 vintage) were not designed for them and lubrication is a complex thing, especially for diesels. Thanks for the thoughts! Dennis - 2005 Windsor

Hello! Is anyone aware of generator modifications that will allow an extended period of operation before serving (oil change)? We tailgate during football season and usually put about 60 to 70 hours of run time each weekend, which requires an oil change every 3 trips (150 hrs) I was thinking adding an external oil tank in the oil system that triples the oil volume should triple the run time between oil changes ( making it close to the fuel and air filter change at 500hrs). I don't want to invent something if there is already something available. The generator has about 2500 to 3000 hrs on it and runs fine! Thanks, Dennis, 2005 Windsor - 8kw Onan

For wheel spacers, see if a local shop has any worn out brake drums. Take them to a machine shop and have them cut off anything that does not look like a spacer!

Ivan has a good point - "Comparing number of lug threads past the nut" - if you count threads or measure how far the wheel studs stick out of the nut when the tire is mounted, it will tell you if the wheel studs can accommodate a spacer and how thick of a spacer. If the two sides are different, then something in the assembly is different between the two sides - either the thickness of the drum or a spacer is on one side and not the other. Dennis Nelson - 2005 Windsor

I agree - if a tire manufacturer gives you a recommendation, they have safety factors built in. I don't understand why people deviate from the tire manufacturers tire pressure recommendations and tire age replacement recommendations.

So Dragracer, what time does a 2001 diplomat do in a quarter mile? I know you just had to try it!

RESOLUTION: After much disassembling to check switches, which checked out to be working correctly, I pulled the wires off of one solenoid at the pump to check continuity - and the wires had power when switched and the other solenoid worked with the switch! I got lucky when I disconnected the bad solenoid; I have no idea why one bad solenoid prevented the other from working (maybe some internal short that that tripped the breaker when either was activated?), but glad it was that simple. Installed a replacement from Amazon and all works well. LESSONS LEARNED: When troubleshooting - start at the easiest to reach locations - the pump end and remove wires to confirm voltage and ground before digging into the armrest switch! For anyone with this problem in the future, the original solenoid is marked SAZ-420IER ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO 12V 4PA 06 AI . I purchased a "dump trailer solenoid" from Amazon that replaces SAZ-4201ER and all is working fine. I spent about 3 hours trouble shooting, the repair with part in hand took less than 15 minutes. On to the next project!

Two comments - 1) measure the height of your fuel tank and divide the volume by height to find the "gallons per inch" - it might surprise; it seems like my Windsor was close to 10 gallons per inch when you consider the fuel neck height. 2) if someone opened your fuel tank and help themselves to some of your fuel, it would show up as a very low MPG with your calculations.

Yes, the switch in the front run bay (outside below driver window) has power and appears to work correctly when checked with a multi meter. Have not disassembled the console next to the driver's seat yet to determine if that switch is working properly. If they are wired in parallel, it should not prevent the front run bay switch from operating the slide.

Thanks for the reply Jim! The key was off. I did not see a fuse at the pump, but will look again.

Hello All! I have a 2005 Windsor that the generator slide will not move with the switches. I was able to jump the solenoid main terminals at the pump to move it out and in to complete an oil change on the generator. The switch in the front run bay has 12 volt power to it, and works correctly (12 volt out on each leg when the switch is pressed each way). I did not have time to disassemble the switch next to the driver seat. Is the wiring diagrams show a controller and lock out relay for the generator slide, but I have not found a controller, and it should be a very simple configuration that does not require a controller board. Anyone know if there is an actual generator slide controller? or how the two buttons are wired? could be parallel (the FRB switch is single pole double throw), but have not looked at the driver seat switch. I tried applying 12v to one of the solenoid control terminals with no luck - I was by myself and did not think to run a long enough jumper to attach a meter where I could see if it got 12 v when I pressed the switch. But I didn't think both solenoids would fail at exactly the same time.... Any suggestions for troubleshooting? anyone know if there are other relays or a control board in the circuit? Thanks, Dennis Nelson - 2005 Windsor - with 2011 Lincoln MKX toad.

If your college football fan, ask if there's RV tailgating. We have a blast and have met lots of friendly people. We rent a spot for the season, able to arrive at the University of Florida 6:30 Friday night and don't have to leave till noon on Sunday. Some universities have visitor spaces available, and / or free lots on a first come first serve.

We used to have a dolly because we had a number of different vehicles have we wanted to take it various times. The dolly work well for that, but now we have one flat tow vehicle that is much easier to connect and disconnect. Having said that, we prepared our main vehicle for Dolly towing to make it quicker to load and unload. Modifications included wiring tail lights to a connector underneath the dash, and a comparable connector at the Dolly wheel, well for easy electrical connection. One of the best modifications was mounting eye bolts to the frame under the front of the car so that safety chains could be connected in seconds instead of crawling around and looping over axles. Overall, with a good checklist, I was able to load and unload the car in less then 10 minutes.

When I pulled our doors out for adjustment I put black rubber pipe insulation on the back as a bumper so that when they opened they did not slam against the back side.

Our cutoff switch died going down the road and shut off all power a block from home. Once I figured out what it was I used jumper cables to bypass the switch until we got home. I replaced it with the following many years ago. Impressed with the quality of this switch. I see it's on sale right now for 1/3 off, less than $40 ... Blue Sea Systems 9003E e-Series Battery Switch, On/Off, Red https://a.co/d/8YZ9MMO

Interesting, that's counterintuitive. Lower pressure will typically cause the tire to flex more and produce more heat. I assume all other conditions were similar like running the higher pressure? Similar road conditions?

Martin, I am connected to shore power at home. Today I changed to a 30 amp recepticle and adapter; same thing.. however, today it does not register the voltage on the Aladin. Did not have time to remove Transfer switch cover to measure voltage there. Thanks Richard, that is what I was afraid of.... will keep hoping something comes through. If it is just the contactors, I would think a newer contactor model should perform the same function, but not knowledgable enough to verify this... mine has a label on it Cutler-Hammer C65FNF360 - but google states a C65FNF360A is $1860 ! I read some old IRV forms that said to remove power to the inverter to reset a trouble code that is somehow linked to the trasnfer switch and not letting it hold in the contactor... I will try it over the weekend...

I have a 2005 monaco windsor with a TRC 40250 and Aladin. My question: has anyone actually installed a TRC Surge Guard Transfer Switch model 40450-RVC3 and confirmed if it does or does not communicate with the Alladin System? Second Question: Is there a repair shop that will repair a TRC 40250 ? Background: My TRC 40250 transfer switch is dropping (disconnecting) incoming shore power; it will connect and operate properly for some time, then just disconnect. Start up the generator and it works fine on the generator. I measured voltage at the incoming line on the transfer switch (removed cover and placed a cheap volt meter between one leg and neutral), it did not appear to change when the transfer switch disconnects. I read a few posts this morning, and will examine the pedestal power to confirm ground an neutral are working (it is on the side of my garage; a few years old so should not be bad, but will check). I replace my power cord reel gear many years ago and cleaned the contractors then; but could be an issue now… but the shore power will be working fine and then drop the incoming shore power without rotating the power cord reel; sometimes will restart in a few moments; sometimes not. Rotating the power reel does not appear to fix the problem once the transfer switch disconnects and does not re-engage. I will continue to trouble shoot, but reading the relevant posts, I found two statements regarding a replacement for the TRC 40250 in the post “Replaced 07 Sig TRC ATS - Alladin will NOT monitor voltage and current - SOLUTIONS?” <Richard Smith> TRC Surge Guard Transfer Switch that does talk with the Alladin System is the 40450RVC3 model. <Tom Cherry> @Frank McElroy , as usual was a wealth of information. He was curious as to WHY you had to replace it as they are pretty bullet proof. One of our departed members, Bill Groves, would replace the MOV (the part that opens up when it takes a hit). They are Metal Oxide Varistors and are commonly available. You check them and if they have an OPEN circuit, you pull off the board and replace them with new. More work to do on my part, but want to plan for worst case repairs....

I have an 05 Windsor - but only hardcopy at the moment. Been meaning to scan it for 10 years! I recall various parts cover a few other models. If you don't find what you need let me know and I will see if what I have will cover it. On a different subject, someone should upload all of these files into the records here.

I typically refuel when the fuel level goes below the generator pickup and the generator quites. A little math tells me each inch of fuel level is around 10 gallons, so, depending on where your fuel pickup tube is, an incline that puts your pickup tube at the high side of the slope could run you out of fuel with many gallons in the tank ... But I think they install the fuel pick up in the middle of the tank to reduce this issue. I thought about adding threaded nipples to the side of the tank and putting a clear fuel line between the top and bottom to have a visual of what is actually in the tank, but I decided messing with the fuel tank would be too much effort when all I have to do is keep a minimum of a quarter tank in there.

Thanks Todd, I will check them out the next time I get to Brooksville. They look promising. Dave, I might try adding some freon if I can confirm the type. But I am expecting it will need work.. Thank you both for the input!