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Dennis H

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Posts posted by Dennis H

  1. Ray, I do feel your pain. Winterize your home and head to Arizona. The winter temps across this great country is insane. I'll stay clear of politics but I do hear you. The great thing I try to remember is I've worked hard all my life and am now able to reap the rewards of that hard work. Something the me generation will never be able to do. Relying on someone else to take care of you because you failed to do so while younger is begging for failure. Nothing in life is FREE regardless of what some people try to make one believe. We are truly blessed with being able to turn the key if we don't like our neighbors, don't like the cold or don't like the heat.....Dennis

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  2. Caution when using air to 'blow' out the lines. Air can, indeed blow out your lines. You'll have more issues than if you just let them freeze. The referred plug is simply that. If you hook that up to your compressor hose you'll most likely be finding pieces of your supply lines all over the coach. MAXIMUM PRESSURE IS 40 PSI. Best rig for blowing air thru your system is a trigger nozzle with a regulator on it, a short hose for convenience and the hose connection referred to above. Remember, MAX PRESSURE 40 PSI.....Dennis

  3. For those that drain the water heater....when I had my Dynasty, it too would drip/drain water in places I didn't want it to. I took a short piece of 2" PVC pipe and split it in half. Placed it under the drain and let er rip. Water went where I wanted it to go not where it chose to go.....Dennis

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  4. Something I learned the other day.....if you have DirecTV you can program the remote to control the sound bar. One less remote to fiddle with.

    I installed a Vizio in the living room next to the TV when I upgraded. The one in the bedroom I stashed in the cabinet above the laundry hamper. However, I'm not happy with that arrangement so I'm looking for an alternative now. I anticipate an eventual issue with the optic cable since the bedroom TV is in a in/out cabinet. I think the movement of the TV will eventually compromise that cable and it's a pain to install. I'm looking for a smaller sound bar with decent sound that doesn't cost an arm and a leg...think BOSE. I want to install it next to the TV so it will move with the TV instead of back and forth. Space is a limitation and I would prefer it to look like a factory install. They are a big improvement. The search continues.........Dennis

  5. OK, I just noticed another thing with your box. It takes 120VAC power! Check there to see if you have 120VAC TO the unit itself. Look at the right side of the box, left side of your picture. See where it says 120VAC 10A. That means you have a relay somewhere in your system. That relay may be bad or one of your breakers has tripped. Look in your rear run bay for a tripped breaker or relay. Some relays have a simple arm that moves to reset them. When your batteries went low that relay could have tripped or the battery thingy might simply be coincidence. But I'd check for 120VDC voltage where it enters that box. If there's none you might want to trace backwards from there. There is a way to jumper that but if you're not electrically inclined, I'd leave that to your friend.....keep us posted....Dennis

  6. Placing a switch on the wires will not do anything if there's NO POWER. To activate the lift mechanism will require power to the lift mechanism. So, here's another alternative. Can you access the back of the unit? If so, remove the lift mech. bolts and manually lift the TV into place and/or remove the TV completely. You MUST have POWER to that box in order for it to work. Grab 12VDC from your front run box or directly from your house battery bank.  Touch it to the close terminal and see if it works. Cutting the wires will do nothing. Do you have a meter to check for voltage? If not, your electrician friend should have one. Have him show you how to use it and get yourself one. Harbor Freight has them cheap, albeit marginally effective. Finally, there are NO stupid questions. Some answers might sound stupid, but there are no stupid questions. That's how we learn. Yesterday, you didn't know that box existed. Today you do! 😁 See! you're smarter today than you were yesterday....Dennis

  7. I'd start with a meter and check for voltage on that box. REF appears it should be hot and the remote would click between that and OPEN/CLOSE, giving power to one or the other. If that's the case, then a simple three position toggle switch would do the trick. I'm just not sure what the jumper is for, but I'd try jumping between REF and Close. If that doesn't work, unhook the jumper on J4 and try jumping it again. If that fails then you need to trace the wire marked REF and look for a fuse. If the wire marked REF has no power, you might run a separate powered wire from a trusted source to the close terminal and see if it closes......Dennis

    I just went back and looked at your picture, I had to stand on my head which I didn't do the first time. 😄 Since you have three wires attached to JP5 marked WIRED remote, that means you have a SWITCH somewhere in your system. Most likely THAT switch will have a relay and/or a fuse in that system. Running a hot lead to the middle terminal may not work as the relay wouldn't activate. I don't know for sure that a relay is necessary, just speculation. Try running a hot lead to the close terminal and let us know what happens.....Dennis

  8. Dave welcome!

    Since everything is electrical, things can be bypassed, including remotes. Remember, all a remote does is trigger some electrical device which actually does the work. That said, tracing the wiring to the TV is your best solution. There should be a solenoid that the remote triggers. Where is it? I have no clue, but a wild azz guess would be the rear run bay. If you can access the bay below the television, look up on the ceiling of that bay. Lots of stuff is attached to the ceilings. Most things that move up/down and out on these coaches, have reed switches to prevent them from opening accidentally. i.e. my slides won't deploy if a basement door is open. Look for that too. The good news is once you find out what's wrong, it'll be a cheap fix......Dennis

  9. Almost without fail, I will use Google Maps, satellite view to check out a campground. If I reserve a particular site, I zero in on that site and don't have to rely on someone knowing where the 'southern sky' is. Heck, many folks don't know the difference between your and you're. 😉 Just like the size of the 'pad'. Sure! you'll fit, no problem, but they forgett to mention their roads are too narrow for you to get to the site. I like the idea but I also know it's a huge project. I started to include 'Big Rig Sites' on my blog with pictures but wow, lots of work. Mods are right up there with Saints. Like Ron said, everyone's 'thing' is different, just like our opinions. Things that are important to us is whether cell service is good or non existent, ATT and Verizon, whether the campground is clean and inviting, or peppered with homeless schoolies, 50amp functioning service, good water incl pressure, etc. etc. If Scotty were to go ahead with this project I believe he should set up a checklist of what the preferences are, include that in the post and stick to it if possible. I'm amazed that there is a request that all profile pics are supposed to be a small size to save bandwidth but many posts contain a page and a half of their rig. Guess people just post without reading, and it does keep the mods out of the bars at night.....ok rant over....Dennis

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  10. We leave the electric on all the time while we are hooked up to 50amp service. That said, the electric will only provide you with X amount of heated water. It's ok for military showers or washing dishes but we turn on the diesel for showers and doing the laundry.  My wife likes 15 min showers in the morning and I like the stand up jacuzzi type showers so the diesel is necessary. The diesel burner is also necessary for the furnace if you're running that.

    As for the back lit switches...our AH has lighted switches to tell you they are on. If I turn on the rope light switch ALL the switches on that panel light up allowing you to see what each switch is for. This is especially handy in the bedroom which only lights up the panel. The window rope lights have their own switch as do the other lights including the mirrored ceiling ropes.  It does makes a nice night light if necessary.  While any electric usage will draw down your batteries, those lamps are milliamp lamps which IIRC draw less than 1 amp. Hope this helps.....Dennis

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