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vito.a

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Posts posted by vito.a

  1. Monaco usually installed one 12V 100-watt solar panel and a Heliotrope RV-45D PWM charge controller. 

    The Heliotrope charge controller is in the ceiling of the main basement compartment under the plywood cover.  

    You can go wild and replace everything with 2000+ watts of panels and a new MPPT charge controller along with larger wiring.  Or you can just replace the single 100-watt panel with up to three 225 watt 12-volt panels and retain your Heliotrope charge controller.   

    Your Heliotrope charge controller charges both your house and chassis battery and has a capacity of up to 45 amps.  

    Please understand that even three 225-watt panels are not going to provide much useable power.  

    Good luck!

  2. Doug,

    You might want to try cleaning the RJ-11 plugs to see if that helps.  I found a junction box in the main basement just above the plywood ceiling cover.  It was next to the solar charge controller.  Some of the coaches have one in the dash on the passenger side.  

    Have you replaced the sensors in the last few years?  If not, it probably needs new sensors anyway.  

    • Thanks 1
  3. It looks like you have some work cut out there.  But, not too bad.  

    Instead of an Intellitec Big Boy isolation solenoid I'd use a Blue Sea ML-ACR available on Amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Automatic-Charging/dp/B001VIXLRO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2DL3RI6KWQ5Q6&keywords=blue%2Bsea%2Bml-acr&qid=1682971622&sprefix=blue%2Bsea%2Bml-acr%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-2&th=1

    You may have to run an additional wire for the combining function but it's a much better solution.   There are several discussions on this subject.  

    Good luck!

    • Like 3
  4. Did you have 4 zones on your previous thermostat?  

    If so, look at this thread (but it's for a 2008 model):  

    If not, then you probably have the dip switches incorrectly set on your zones 2 and 3 A/C control boards. 

    Did you copy the settings exactly from the previous Penguin units?

     

  5. This sounds like possibly two separate issues.  The warning light may not be associated with the transmission.  Have you checked for engine codes with a heavy diesel code reader?  It connects to the engine ECU at the port under the dash next to the drivers' feet.  

    The transmission dip stick is probably accessed from inside the coach.  There should be a removable hatch in the bedroom.  It should be warmed up when checking and that means driving at least a short distance.   However, unless something is wrong with the sensors the control pad check takes precedence (but again, it must be warmed up).  

  6. Our Aqua Hot system is finally working better than new.  I sent the diesel burner to John Carrillo and he rebuilt and sent it back in two days.  The internal clutch was broken.  John installed a 5-year kit with new bearings, new clutch, new wire harness, new fuel hoses, new grommets, new ignitors, and calibrated and adjusted everything.  He also tested my electronic controller.  The cost was only about half what others charge and the unit looks like new.  

    To make R&R easier, I installed a spade connector on the red wire going to the relay.   This relay has three +12v wires attached to a single tiny screw and it is tough to work on.  This way I just detach a spade connector.  

    After installation it fired up within 20 seconds and burns clean and hot.   Our night time temps dropped into the 30's and it ran on and off all night and kept the coach warm and we had plenty of hot water in the morning.  

    Hindsight, I should have sent the diesel burner into John when I first removed the old boiler.  

    This new boiler works much better than the old one.  The new AC electric element will actually produce enough heat for a shower!  The old one was only good for a few dishes.  This boiler also holds the heat much longer.  I run the diesel burner one cycle at about 4am and it makes enough heat for a shower and hot water all day.  

    Thanks to everyone that contributed advice.  

    Diesel burner after rebuild.jpg

    • Like 3
  7. Competition is always good for the consumer but in this case I'm not sure I see any advantages.  I just spent time and money rebuilding our Aqua Hot but it has been in service for 19 years!  I fully expect to get another 10-20 years from it.

    Comparison: The MCS16 is 54,000BTU while the older Aqua hot units are 50,000BTU and most of the newer Aqua Hot units are 60,000BTU. 

    The MCS16 is 18.5" W x 10" H x30" L. The Aqua Hot dimensions are 18.5" W x 18.5" H  x 36.75" L.  So you gain 8" in height but you still can't stack anything on it and the footprint is almost identical.   The Aqua Hot 450 systems are smaller but I'm not a fan of those either as they use a very small boiler.  

    The fuel burn rates are identical at .5 gal per hour.  

    The MCS16 weighs about 90# less (112lbs vs 200lbs).  This worries me for long term usage.  

    You are going to easily spend over $10k for the MCS16 plus any other conversion or installation costs.  You can completely rebuild your existing Aqua Hot for half that cost IF you do the labor yourself.  

    I'm interested in watching your conversion thread and hope it works out well.  

  8. Ted, do you really have ten thousand hours on your generator, or s that a typo?

    I just used Prestone antifreeze in the generator.  The engines (Isuzu or Kubota depending on model) have dry sleeves that are not exposed to coolant. 

    Be careful with the radiator drain plug, mine just screwed into plastic.  

  9. I'm sorry, but I think you need to be much more involved in this or you are going to be led in circles.  

    I don't understand how the tech can narrow it down to the PTO seal.  He would have to disassemble the hydraulic pump from the PTO to even see the PTO seal.  And that's a big job because those huge hydraulic lines need to be removed and there is almost 20 gallons of hydraulic fluid in this system.   I had a weight lifter friend help loosen the 2" B-Nut on the hydraulic hose and it took 20 min of straining.    

    This is the link to the post I made on repairing ours:  https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sauer-danfoss-hydraulic-pump-rebuild-455664.html#post4895665

    The Cummins PTO to hydraulic pump gasket is Cummins part number 3916042.  They are available on eBay.  I'd get two of them and a tube of Permatex Ultra-Grey gasket sealer.  

    I also replaced one of the dash 4 steel braided hoses from the transmission to PTO and replaced the shaft seal in the hydraulic pump.  

    I hope you get it straightened out.  

     

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