TomV48

john I missed my point.       Is your system blowing off pressure through  that system after you come up to full pressure and do you blow off air from the Spit valves once in a while.   I think the book says purge water from air tanks drain valves monthly more or less depending upon humidity 

WOW.  Sitting here in So Cal feeling so smug that that can only happen in a wet climate.  Yikes you are here too.  Here is what my book says

"Regeneration - The mild backflow of air through the air dryer and out the purge valve that begins
immediately after the purge and lasts normally 10 to 15 seconds. This backflow of air, from the
air system and through the air dryer, removes moisture from the desiccant cartridge and
prepares the air dryer for the next compressor load cycle."

We have had the coach for over four years and I just changed our desiccant cartridge last year.   Old maintenance records do not tell me if it had ever been done.

My book says every 2 to 3 years, when compressor is changed or if there has been water in the tanks.

Two years ago I found the air/water release valves and never so much as a wisp of moisture.   I guess I have been lucky

On 1/30/2024 at 10:03 AM, vito.a said:

Steering stabilizers function poorly on large Monaco diesel coaches.  Many time they make the steering worse.  

However, the Monaco Watts linkage system gets rave reviews.  It can be installed on the front, rear or both.  

https://monacowatts.com/

We love ours.   Front Watts and rear cross bars.  Bye Bye tail wag and front lean or roll effect.  Add a good alignment from someone in Oregon who understands the Roadmaster 8 bag system, then a SafetyTPlus  gas strut ( the big Blue one) and can't imagine it gets too much better.

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Drive it around a little and then check again. 

 

Are you measuring directly on the upper to lower airbag mounting plates?

Yup.  That's how it works on our 2005 Ambassador 

Chinese junk it may be, but 2/3 of everything we buy in this country is made in China these days so I wouldn't assume it to be total junk. Reading it, it looks like it may be the only game that's left. 

If I was in that pickle I think I'd order it and see how it comes out.  I didn't get in to looking at the company's return policy but they did indicate that compatibility is your responsibility.  Looks an awful lot like mine good luck.

On 4/24/2024 at 4:29 AM, Flyinhy said:

I'm about to retire my sierra as my toad and I'm considering a 2014 Honda crv. I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but I wanted to hear from someone who actually has one. It's a front wheel drive car. I read the owners manual and it says it can be flat towed but I wanted to make sure from someone who has one. I was under the impression that it had to be the AWD version. 

I love towing my sierra but I'd rather use it only on certain trips. The crv would be my daily commuter for work.

Well I bought my 2013 used to have as a TOAD.   Then heard that 2014 is also towable.  We have to have the rear camera to even know it is back there.   I follow instructions and have my Tranny service done about twice as often and I run through the whole RITUAL of warming it up a bit then running it through the gears per the owner manual every day before we take off.    I have to remind myself that it now has  about 29000 more miles on the chassis as on the Odometer but it had been PERFECT.  Knock on wood!!!

19 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Considering the year of your coach, they won’t be much help for you. What is the issue you are looking for information on?

Well, I have had great luck getting info from REV.  Our coach is a 2005 Ambassador and they have been able to give me paint codes,  build sheet including serial numbers, parts cross references. 

They have been surprisingly helpful.  Considering that I expected to be treated like an unwanted stepchild, they have been amazing.

My question IS,,,,, where can I get those IDENTICAL, connectors?   They ARE everywhere, double, triple, quad, and more.   I have a couple of places I could tap in to for work I want to do, IF I COULD find a directly compatible connector.   I have become tired of using  work arounds.

1 hour ago, Benjamin said:

I don't know what system you have on that Dynasty as far as a diode based isolator, vs a relay like a BIRD.  14.9 might be normal for a diode isolator.  Check the battery voltage on both banks. Should be right around 14V running.  Might change a little depending on temperature, how full the batteries are, and how long the engine has been running. 

I concur.   With ours I run a 40 amp DC to DC that puts about 50 amp load on the alternator to charge 40.   With that I see 13 -14 volts running voltage but do see about a volt or so drop if I put the headlights on 

I looked at those and the wiring was way too light to suit me.  I used little appliances that let me run my chosen gauge of wire up to a 1/4 inch female blade connector.

For the driver's area I ran a 10 gauge wire up from the electrical control box below the driver's window into the dash area.  I then mounted a dual receptacle surface mounted on the lower edge of the dash.

I got a phone number ultimately the parts dept at REV the new or current Parent Company .  I think this is where I reached out..   1 (877) 466-6226. They gave me not only my paint codes but my build sheet with all models and serial numbers for my accessories 

I also learned when fiddling around with installing my DC to DC charger that if I BACK FEED power from battery to the ignition hot lead which normally activates the charging solenoid to allow alternator to charge the house batteries, that I cannot shut off the engine.   So check for anything shorted on to the low amperage side of that solenoid 

8 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

It provides smoother operation. I would keep one. 

Then there is the higher flow, Remco Aquajet variable speed pump in our couch which specifically says do not use with a pressure accumulator.   We had three rigs prior with standard water pumps and I added a small acculator to all three and really appreciated the improvement in flow and reduced cycle frequency 

On 2/17/2024 at 9:40 AM, grtdnm said:

Thank you all for the suggestions and help. Hubby found it in RV front where the generator slides out. Located on passenger side above eye level. 🙃 Thanks again!

Added fluid to reservoir only to find 1 jack was not working.🤬 The extend and retract switch for that jack was bad. Bought one from Amazon and now all jacks are extending and retracting as they should.🙂

Please show us a picture of what you replaced and part you got from Amazon 

On 2/13/2024 at 12:08 PM, throgmartin said:

There is very little you can do to to ease the pressure when the slide comes in. It is what it is.

I have lubed slide rails for 2 decades without a problem. But then I never use grease or anything that will cause a build up or attract and hold dirt. No idea why Power gear would recommend not lubing the rails and gears. We have had coaches come in with a severe amount of rust and after cleaning and lubricating the slide worked better. While the gears may not rust, the teeth on the frame rails will.

I might add, I do not like any of the slide lubricants on the market. I only use Boeshield T-9.

 

Thank you. After self-righteously expressing that rule from Power Gear I can now feel safe to admit that I too tend to make sure there's some T-9 on things, where I can't bear the risk of rust.

Oh, and I DO hear the load come off the motor on retracting the main living room slide when I put my shoulder in to it. 

throgmartin.  Thank you.   I too,  use manual assist when my slide is first coming in, to help it come up the ramp from flat floor.  Might just be my phoebia.

We were  slipping a cog, in the Power Gear drive gears.  That was a hassle to correct.  Then I looked at our repair history and the owners manual for Power Gear.

The former owner had the issue "Fixed"at CW, twice.  They had so much dried axle grease on the gears that I had to lift the slide and remove both gears and both gear rails.  A gallon of solvent and two wire brushes later I had the rails and gears clean and  ready to replace.

First thing in both the installers manual and the owners manual " ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LUBRICATE THE DRIVE GEARS OR RAIL TEETH".  In fact, it says, IF YOU MUST LUBE SOMETHING, LIMIT IT TO A LIGHT SILICONE ON THE GEAR'S AXLES ONLY."

I have no rollers.  What would you recommend, if anything, to ease pressure on the initial lift up the 45° ramp?

On 11/21/2022 at 6:12 AM, DavidL said:

You might spray some WD40 into the switch and on / off / dimmer a bit to clean the contacts.

If that doesn't work, then you will have the switch so you can take a picture or get a part number of of it for finding one.

My go to has always been a spray from. radio Shack they used to call "Color TV tuner cleaner".  With the near death of Radio Shack, where I used to buy it, I am told you can still find it on EBay.

It is THE BEST electrical contact cleaner ever.

4 hours ago, bborc2005 said:

tomv48 your boost is about right, I have a 2007 Knight with the same 8.3 and the most I have ever seen is 24lbs

Thank you ROBERT.   Love this group.   Seems less alone out here with you guys available to back us up.

8 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

My 2003 HR cummins will when approaching hills momintarily read full boost “30 psi” then it pulls back an long pulls drop to less somewhere 26 ish. At 1st thought a leak untill one time watching the EGT and at the time it was very close to 1200 degrees and over 30 psi m it dropped to 1100 ish instantly with psi now 26 psi. I had rembered that when i bought the new to me coach it already had a Banks Stinger kit installed on it. And reading the info on the stinger thats its main task in that it monitors the EGT temps when giving you full power and if the temps get to high it changes the fuel rate to reduce the temps which in turn lowers the psi. Its gotten so automatic for me i almost never pay attention to the gauge anymore.

Thank you.   Reminds me that before hot weather, I need to get EGT displaying on my ScanGaugeD

7 hours ago, Kenster said:

Boy that sure does sound like a lot of work. There's nothing wrong with my existing sinks, I simply prefer stainless.

Mine is like described and a Corian type material.  I would just buff it out like new and forget the stainless, until and unless it becomes necessary.

My 2005 Ambassador, rear radiator 8.3 rated at 330 HP seems to hang up at max 22-23 with my foot in it and "appropriate" rpm.  Seems like it used to give me more.  Thinking I need to get a Cummins shop to plug it in and check my diagnostics.  Am I thinking right or expecting too much?

Upper left looks like it could be a boost relay but could also be the salesman switch for the DC in the coach.   Use a multi meter or even just a volt meter, and start tracing things. I hope there is a master battery cut off at each battery bank so that you can isolate a bank and then track the large cables in the front page see which one is left hot and which one is not.

I have a big boy type 200 amp full duty cycle relay in my coach, back in the battery Bay, but it's disabled (out of the circuit) in favor of a DC to DC charger I installed for my lithium batteries so no boost switch.     Try this link to YouTube, AZ Expert if I recall the device he is installing, will not only handle lithium batteries but should handle stock batteries as well, until you get around to upgrading.      There is also a similar isolator for conventional batteries if lithium batteries are not the priority.

On 1/30/2024 at 10:03 AM, vito.a said:

Steering stabilizers function poorly on large Monaco diesel coaches.  Many time they make the steering worse.  

However, the Monaco Watts linkage system gets rave reviews.  It can be installed on the front, rear or both.  

https://monacowatts.com/

Well the first thing we installed was a safe T plus steering stabilizer.  That gave me some improvement in steering and peace of mind to a degree regarding blowout control and stability.  And it was an improvement but not a giant one. Then we put the watts link on the front and that was a monumental improvement in body roll and sway generally.  Also added the Monaco Watts  crossbars on the rear trailing arms and that gave us almost complete elimination of tail wag.

I was unhappy with the lack of adjustment on the shepherd m100 steering box but first went to work on the alignment issues.  The few shops in Southern California who claim to be able to align that one of the small fortune to attempt it.  $600 to $800 for the quotes.  Peach truck and tire service out of Corona did a fair improvement with alignment and didn't cost me an arm and a leg but it was still not entirely desirable.

While traveling in Oregon this summer I booked an appointment with Kaiser alignment in Eugene oregon..  They are very close to the mothership where this thing was built in Coburg and they have been aligning eight airbags suspension for decades.   They did not complain about what Pete's had done but fine-tuned it with a couple more adjustments and made it markedly better. They also checked the play in my shepherd steering box and the manager reported to me that it was possibly the least slop he'd ever seen in a Shepherd box.  He indicated that they could obtain the parts and change it out to a trw for me but of course it's a long way from home so I tried the new alignment on the way home and frankly I was happy. 

Driving the bus is still a full-time job but much more relaxing with the proper alignment and a stabilizing modifications that I've done so far.   With hindsight I don't think there's anything I've done to that suspension that I regret or that I would do differently if doing it over.

My hydraulic stuff is behind the driver's side rear wheel.  In a compartment which secures with keyed screws like the lock nuts on mag wheels