TomV48

6 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Good observation.  Tim, this is a solenoid valve on a hard plumbed Air Line.  The two wires control the opening and closing of the valve.  Assume you have the manual.  Start reading around page  186.  There is a detailed description of the air system and the required owner maintenance.  If you have not been draining or purging the air as recommended, then there could be an issue with the valve.  Read and look at the pictures.  Drain all the air per the manual.  Then take a large screwdriver or one that has a good sizes handle.  Tap, rather aggressively on the body of the valve.  Not like trying to drive a nail, but to see if there is something lodged in it.  Then close all the air drains and restart the MH to get the pressure back up.  If the valve is still leaking, chase the wiring on the solenoid back to a connector snd disconnect the power from the solenoid.

Past that, call a tech….one that isi familiar with the air system.

Probably a diesel truck service would be more generally knowledgeable on air brakes

1 hour ago, Joint Venture said:

Appreciate the response, I'm still wired alternator wise the way OEM wired it and no problems yet also. Just would feel better having it set up correctly with a DC to DC Victron Isolated 30A charger. We bought this coach May 5th and still ironing out details for boondocking which is about 90% of our camping. 

Then go bigger than 30 amp.   In case you need to pump up the coach batteries with the engine, rather than the genset and inverter/charger, faster is better.   Although,that said my inverter will charge at 100 amp and have it throttled back to 80 amps.   So, that charges pretty handily but when I'm on the road from point A to point B if it's a short trip 30 amp is not going to top off the batteries where a 60 amp, might have a better chance

Well my travel partners have 1000 amps of LiFePo and 800 watts solar.    They still use the factory charging cross over, four years now,  with no problems YET.

I installed a 40 amp DC to DC Renogy and sometimes wish I had done 60 Amp but otherwise seems to keep me topped off every where we go  OH along with the 600 watts of solar on our roof .  With your investment in Victron might as well go with their DC to DC.  In for a dime in for a dollar or what ever.

Well I was just camped with two Beaver People who take their rigs back to new iteration of the old factory  service center in Bend, OR.   Maybe they can help you.

Beaver Coach Sales and Service 62955 Boyd Acres Rd, Bend, OR 97701 (844) 243-3725

I thought that what you were describing is more in the neighborhood of toe in,  and can't that be adjusted with tie rod ends?  I might just be missing the point or too dumb to do alignment work I'm not sure which.  I know having the timing marks aligned is your baseline and that's important but if the tie rods were out of sink on the old steering gear maybe they need to be adjusted into proper toe in for both Wheels with your wheel centered.

I agree with the comment that maybe your angle iron (aluminum) method is not precise.  Maybe you should have it on an alignment machine before you make any decisions.   I have the blessing of having an alignment appointment with Kaiser alignment in Eugene later this month.  Just talking to Cary I realized that he understood more about our suspension and our alignment than the other four alignment shops I've been to combined.

My two windshield blinds are different but sound similar in operation.   I had similar sounding failure.  Took in down and "bench tested" (ok dinette tested) with 12 volts.  It acted the same.  Was gonna order a new one until I found the price $400 ish and out of stock to boot.   

Disassembled carefully--- (tiny springs and washers-- and broken plastic.) The axle is about 1/8-in diameter more or less and steel. Dead ends into a molded plastic cup in the end piece.  Of course it wasn't a solid hole, it was a built up plastic rim around "the hole or socket" for the shaft end, and the rim had shattered. 

The axle pulled awkwardly and worked intermittently a little bit and then finally locked up, like you describe.  Probably when I broke the rest of the plastic pieces during use.

I repaired it by reassembling the parts that were identifiable and fusing them together with JB Weld two-part plastic epoxy

Then I cleaned the hole out where the axle went in, with the drill bit.   Then a dab of Vaseline and reassembled.  So far so good it's been over a year but I grit my teeth every time I use it,  figuring the failure will reoccur probably.  One of these days I'll learn to trust my repairs.

18 minutes ago, Flyinhy said:

Speaker wire, duct tape and zip ties 🤪

ADD Screwdriver pocket knife pliers eternabond tape and dicor

1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Your pic isn’t quite big enough for me to see if it’s like my coach…. But in my Diplomat, the wood trim piece covering the track comes off by removing 2-3 screws (mine are covered by plastic caps). That gives you full access and visibility to the slide mechanism. 

Judging based on the position of the plastic lever, it looks like it may have simply come “unclippped” from the trolley that rides on the slide track. If so, just lift the door so the pin fits back in the plastic lever locking mechanism, and close the lever.  

Hope that helps. 

Ditto.  My 05 Ambassador is not pocketed but covered by a removable molding.

2 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Just watched that last night. Coach was in good shape. It's an 09 though........... When things started to unravel for Monaco. 

2009 year model but manufacturer date was 2008

8 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

The torque multiplier kit I purchased for just this reason, came with the 33mm.

Do you per chance have a link to that thing.

5 hours ago, Mark B said:

I just bought some from Amazon. Size: 3 Watts-BA15S

I found LED ones that fit in there and use like darn near no watts

LOOKS nice up top.    Be careful of those AC shrouds.  Mine were 2005 and that color     Leaned on them during solar install.  Patched the cracks initially with Eternabond but every time you looked at them the cracked a little more..   Those guys get brittle after years in the sun even with paint on them for UV protection.   Ours were the older penguins without vent holes on the sides.  New ones from Amazon at about $162 each and repainted them with rattle cans from an auto paint store,  a pretty good match, and now ours are pretty again

6 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Hendersons comes highly recommended.  I would call.  They should be able to do it.  Mike Hughes (Google Watts Link Monaco Mike Hughes) has a LOT of hands on experience and maybe knows some NW shops that have helped out his customers as the TRW changeout is the first step...then the Watts...  Good resource.

Thank you Tom, 

I know Mike, and have talked to Henderson's Lineup.   I'm honing in on the problem.

Tom

Thank you I'll be doing it in the here and now at today's prices and probably will not be going to the East Coast to get the install done.  But if I can pick up the steering gear and the correct pitman arm I know there are a couple good shops in Oregon where Im going to be next month.

Sounds like your pricing was very reasonable compared to what I've been conditioned to expect.

Thank you sir

Okay not a great picture but there is the tire placard from 33,000 lb GVW 2005 Holiday Rambler ambassador for comparison

On 11/28/2022 at 4:51 PM, Dr4Film said:

I worked with a Weller service technician in Michigan who specializes in Sheppard to TRW box swaps. Then they shipped it to the Weller location in Tampa FL which then was delivered to Josam's who did the swap for me including a new pitman arm.

The project was done in June of 2017 to my previous 2002 Windsor.

Search the forum to find my posts on the subject.

Can I persuade you to disclose what that adventure wound up costing?   I  am about to undertake it and it is way too heavy for me to handle.   OR PM at TomVPratt@aol.com

I guess I'm just lucky. The fittings for my air conditioning are in the upper left-hand corner after I pull the slide out for my generator and I can reach them easily from a standing position.  Or should I say upper passenger side of the opening when I pull my generator out. If you're having to pay somebody to do it shop for somebody that's very reasonable. Auto shops want you to pull into their Bay but a good mechanic can roll that epa freon handling unit out to you. Iit's not that difficult and it's fairly portable.

Mobile RV service did if for my prior owner when he had is all tuned up to sell.   I have the service ticket.  The guy purged, evacuated installed leak check and something around 3 lbs of R134.  Charged him an arm and a leg.      The service was done three years and 8 months ago.  Year and a half later and I lost coolant down to where cooling was not great.   Slapped on my auto gauges, pressures were  a bit low.  I added about 1 1/2 lbs. until pressures looked good enough.  Cost me about $25 (California prices) and it has been fine since.   Will check pressures before we hit the road next month.  I carry a can with built in low side gauge in the rig.   All seems well. 

I have not been there, but Elite RV  came highly recommend. But what I need is more on the line with what Henderson lineup  and Kaiser brake and alignment do.

Ditto.  Please share the solution.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Those pesky electrical gremlins hard a work!

Yup I have one of those in my R REAR turn signal light.  Seems to be a bulb issue so I cleaned the socket and the bulb not fixed.  Changed bulb (the original works elsewhere, and has full continuity) New bulb worked first trip.  Then next trip, put the toad on and no RR turn light on Coach.   Works fine on TOAD, so WTH I rolled.  First stop checked again and bingo RR turn signal works.  I have learned to live with it.  We never run after dark and during movement I watch the rear view mirrors and camera and DW looks out the window and I learned to live with it.  So far no matter what I do it works about half the time. 

4 hours ago, PeterSchweizer said:

Contact jim at source engineering  in Oregon he worked for monaco so he has lots of contacts if they don't do what you need done.

Thank you Peter.

Well ours is a 2005 Ambassador 34 and it is called RR8R.   RAISED RAIL 8 airbag REAR RADIATOR.  Our travel partners is a 2003 36 ft, and very similar except they have a side radiator. So it would be like the RR8S but it's got a number more like what you're describing as your chassis number.  So there's a difference but I don't know what it is. 

Hey Gary   Where are you located or better what shop are you in.  And by all means let us know how it goes with them. 

 We will be following behind you up the 5 in about 2 1/2 weeks and will be running up to Keizer, OR Elks before we go toward the beach.

May be stopping off in either Grants Pass, Coburg or Eugene for some maintenance work.   I figure it was made in Coburg so that area ought to have the places to fix her. 

2 hours ago, Gary M said:

Thankyou!! Just talked to Jim and relayed info to shop. But apparently other issues have been found also of which they will be calling me soon. Alternator is not spinning freely of which I complained about a squealing nose. And now apparently more issues and looks like we are going to have to go get meds and supplies out of coach.

Jim at Source Engineering said Monaco stopped using the thermostat clutch and mine should not have one. If it does he said scrap it and hook directly to motor with a spacer. He has a PDF for proper installation. So I’m letting my shop know about this since they installed my new fan last year.

I am thinking I would let them know right away.  One of their Dinosaur techs may not know how it was supposed to go.    I always watch or question, everything any one does for me.   Unless of course you want new and different  problems after you pull out of there.