TomV48

Thankfully, I've never had the problem but I have read a suggestion that might be of value.

I have read that it takes a whole lot less to start your generator so jumper the truck batteries start the generator get the jumper off and then let the generator charge.  If your battery charge crossovers are correct, (mine are not) you're inverter should step in and charge both sets of batteries.   Otherwise make sure you use a real powerful jump starter because my book says we can pull a 1300 cold cranking amps. 

Good luck and Happy New Year Sir

On 12/26/2023 at 4:33 PM, Chris Leedle said:

All the breakers are fine, in the coach and on the inverter.  When power was applied, came on for about 15 seconds, then everything through the inverter went dead.  At this time you could smell electrical burning.  Inverter reset did not help.  Had to bypass inverter to Power up my fridge and outlets. Not working on the microwave yet.  Pulled the inverter and see nothing obvious. Can trace some of the circuit,  but really could use a set of schematics.  Don't really want to purchase a new one.  Thanks for all the input and support.

Did that include checking the reset on the GFI?  Mine in on the outlet in the bathroom though I hear it varies widely.

TRY this site for information    They seem to be at the heart of MAGNUM parts and repair although no one jumps out and offers the schematics.

https://www.zonnaenergy.com/parts/me2012-g-inverter-charger/

18 minutes ago, vito.a said:

 

Did you check the small push in circuit breaker on the side of the inverter?  

Most microwaves run on pass through from the inverter, so if the inverter circuit breaker is popped the microwave and a hand full of other outlets won't work.  

DITTO on the Breaker reset; and I would unplug and see how things are on just my Generator before I panic.   If your coach wiring does not have a problem, you should have gotten nothing if the Neutral pin was not set up and if he fed Ground to Neutral from his house main panel you should not have had a problem although the GFI may not have liked it and may have popped too.   All 50 amp outlets are basically 240 volt outlets and we just use one line or the other and the neutral but the ground line can figure in to the equation.  Most homes should be Ground bonded to Neutral at the main box (never at the sub panel but not fatal to you if they are, just bad if you have a grounding short.  Our coach should not be internally ground bonded,  so you should have gotten nothing if his Electrician did not run neutral to the center pin, but strange things can happen.     Any way lots of things to go wrong there.  Hope you did not suffer a hard lesson.  I will not plug in to any outlet without first hooking up our Progressive Industries EMS.  It reads voltage, polarity, ground, neutral and whatever.  It will not let me hook to anything bad, at least, not without warning me first.

Hope on just your generator with the reset on the Magnum and the reset on the GFI,  that you are ok.    Good luck

7 minutes ago, TomV48 said:

DITTO on the Breaker reset; and I would unplug and see how things are on just my Generator before I panic.   If your coach wiring does not have a problem, you should have gotten nothing if the Neutral pin was not set up and if he fed Ground to Neutral from his house main panel you should not have had a problem although the GFI may not have liked it and may have popped too.   All 50 amp outlets are basically 240 volt outlets and we just use one line or the other and the neutral but the ground line can figure in to the equation.  Most homes should be Ground bonded to Neutral at the main box (never at the sub panel but not fatal to you if they are, just bad if you have a grounding short.  Our coach should not be internally ground bonded,  so you should have gotten nothing if his Electrician did not run neutral to the center pin, but strange things can happen.     Any way lots of things to go wrong there.  Hope you did not suffer a hard lesson.  I will not plug in to any outlet without first hooking up our Progressive Industries EMS.  It reads voltage, polarity, ground, neutral and whatever.  It will not let me hook to anything bad, at least, not without warning me first.

Hope on just your generator with the reset on the Magnum and the reset on the GFI,  that you are ok.    Good luck

AND HEY   Please be sure to let us know how things turn out.   Otherwise   Happy New Year   Tom

2 hours ago, Garry Donohue said:

I purchased brand new Trojan batteries and they still wouldn’t charge. So I pulled out my black negative cable and as I pulled on it I heard crunching sounds  from inside cable and this is what I found…the first photo as I started slicing the jacket, it didn’t look too bad but as I got to the middle..that’s  the second photo  

Wow.  That looks like some serious corrosion.  Obviously, replace it.   Locally for one of cables,if I don't have a big enough crimp I go to Interstate battery distributor who will make it on the spot 

On 11/30/2023 at 10:27 AM, waterskier_1 said:

 

I objective data says that it's okay to use many micowaves on MSW (Modified Sine Wave).  The main concern would be the electronics digital display.  The magnetron requires a very high voltage, so w is first run through a transformer and then rectified to DC.  If you are really concerned, then look at Inverter Microwaves.  Like Inverter residential refrigerators,  they don't care if MSW or PSW,

  -Rick N. 

  -Rick N.

At the risk of repeating myself. I say again I put an oscilloscope on my 2004 model 2000 watt Magnum and it is a perfectly square wave.

While most things will tolerate a bad waveform, when you can hear the difference in the motor between shore power and inverter power.  Good mechanical sense says that just can't be the best thing for a motor. 

     I am passively curious to know how many out there have replaced the old Magnum with the newer pure sine wave Magnum. It seems to be available in 2000 watt or 2800 Watt just bolt-in compatible with the old unit.  I have been tempted but my wife said she'll kill me if I spend $1,800 on something that isn't broken, yet.

5 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

I've had plenty of opportunities, but just use the Aqua Hot to preheat instead.

Sadly, we coaches of the lower model have no AH

3 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

Hi Harry.

I believe I have the basic coach ;-)). When I bought it I read somewhere about a 'heater' can't find the print anywhere......... yes I have a dangling cord, will plug in today to see if it works.  

I think it requires shore power or generator.  I keep saying we will stay somewhere cold enough to test it, but so far it's just theory.

I am not concerned Rick. But they say modified sine, I put an oscilloscope on the now 19 yr old Magnum,  and it is flat out a near perfect square wave.   That said,the microwave runs on it but in DW's defense the motor cries when it is on inverter.

I had to run the fridge on elect during a three week trip, (after burner failure while waiting 7 months on a new fridge back order), and was not always on shore power sites.  With that 40+ amp draw on a 100% duty cycle,  if I had not  had the 600 amps of LiFePo, 600 watt solar and  a 40-40 DC charger, we would not have made it.

On 11/29/2023 at 2:55 AM, richmelcole@sbcglobal.net said:

Looking at my induction cooktop manual, power specifications is 1800 watts = 15 amps, serviced by 14- gauge wire, protected by 15-amp circuit breaker.  I will investigate the behind the refrigerator heater circuit and use that source plus upgrade if needed.  I'm hoping for 12-2 romex cable on a 20-amp circuit.

Behind my fridge there are two outlets.   The inverter circuit is intended for the ice maker.  While the non inverter outlet  is intended for the heating element.   In an emergency I have run the frig off the inverter, as it pulls only 4-5 amps for the 500-600 watt boiler heater.  I would not mess with 1500 watts on that leg, but even the fridge boiler heater was pulling over 40 amps from the batteries which is not desirable long term, even on my big battery bank.  My wife will not even run the microwave on the inverter as it is not pure sine and the she says, "I don't like the way it sounds on the inverter, and the generator needs to run once in a while anyway."

Wow.  Ambitious undertaking.  If it is too challenging you might look at switching the microwave outlet and using it for the two as it is not likely you can run both at the same time off the inverter legs without shore power.

   Sorry I must admit not being too familiar with the separate inverter sub panel.

But I did find it easier to run flex conduit through the basement when running wiring for my solar install.

6 hours ago, Analyte said:

I don't have an answer for you, but I've been looking at a similar situation. No water in my holding tank, and the pump keeps coming on by itself. No leaks found so I pulled the fuse to avoid burning up the pump. No idea why it started doing that.

With no water in the tank, can't you just turn the pump off.

34 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Both our previous Windsor and the Dynasty have the fresh water outlet at the very bottom on the side of the water tank which sits on the floor of the tank bay. The water line travels directly to the water pump that is also mounted on the floor.

The OP needs to post exactly how his fresh water tank and water pump are plumbed together.

In both of  my travel trailers, with just the basic little SureFlo pump, the pump was inside the coach and the tank below the floor.  Neither had and trouble pumping up from below or self priming.  My coach pump is next to the tank, below the water line until the tank is down to the last 15 or 20 gallons, and it does not even have to self prime and works fone.   You must be sucking air somewhere when the tank becomes less than full.

On 11/5/2023 at 2:58 PM, cbr046 said:

 

Sounds like the same features as the TST.  I won't take my toad up to the corner without the tire pressure monitors on it.  Plus the 6 tires on the rig.

On 10/18/2023 at 12:59 PM, Knight 40 PLQ said:

Anybody upgrade their Weldex camera, its going off and on and just dies and then comes back on for a short time.  Any retrofit that will fit the opening 2006 Knight 34,000 miles and it don't like towing without the rear camera.  Thanks, Tim

Weldex makes a color direct replacement I THINK.  Prior owner of our rig had upgraded to that but then said the color intensity was so minimal he is not sure it was worth it.   Anyway, I think I saw a receipt and it said rear and both side cameras  $1600 installed.

Oh and I hate the slow switch over went it changes with the turn signals 

I'm not aware of anything that grows, fungus wise, that would be pink, but for safety sake I think I would do a sanitizing flush of the entire system.  Couple of quarts of bleach could make a big difference and that process is a must-do annually for me anyway.

4 hours ago, saflyer said:

I believe there was a thread describing a permanent fix for a parking brake warning beeper that won’t turn off when the coach is put in gear with the parking brake released. I’ve searched for the thread but nothing I input for search terms gives the thread. The thread could have been on another forum but thought it was here. Mine does this frequently especially on the first drive of the day but eventually stops beeping. The length of time it beeps keeps getting longer and I’m afraid someday it won’t stop.

Ed       
‘05 HR Ambassador 

OMG.  Our 05 Ambassador does that too.  All of a sudden began about a year ago at 80,000 miles and keeps getting more and more troublesome.

56 minutes ago, philcarrell said:

Don't take 82 out of Artesia, tunnel and a steep descent from tunnel down to Alamogordo, plus a long uphill into Cloudcroft. The route through Roswell and Ruidoso is much Better.  I live in Carlsbad and know the roads much better.

I defer to your wisdom.  I haven't been since mid sixties so back when it was one lane each way through the res.

Been 55 yrs since I did it, but I seem to recall pretty good mountain between Roswell and Alamogordo.   My default thought would be look Carlsbad to Alamogordo.   Figure out what wrong--with the 82, if any thing.   Is that a big RV Garmin wanting you to go the long way?

3 hours ago, Bill C said:

I recently found a leak in my dash A/C. It was the low pressure sensor in the front Gen compartment. I'm sure it is a coincident, but after I fixed the freon leak, my dash A/C worked great. I am traveling and needed some dash heat the other day. When I tried it, it never got hot. When I was in the Gen compartment fixing the low press sensor, I did unplug something that could have controlled the dash fan, vacuums, or something, but I plugged it back in and don't think it is the problem, but I just thought I would mention it. 

Anyone know what allows the engine hot coolant to flow in the dash to provide heat?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Bill

I think traditionally, controls in the dash,  actuate a valve in the hot water line from the hot side of the radiator.  In my car and trucks they are on the outside side of the dash/firewall. Usually it is a vacuum control activating a diaphragm that opens the valve.   Sadly or gratefully, I have never had to look at ours in the DP.

12 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

https://roads.dot.ca.gov/

Input 299 and you will get the latest road conditions and traffic update.

You can just call CalTrans at 1 800-427-7623 speak  the highway number and it will give you up to the minute road report on the requested road.   Traffic feature on Google maps is sometimes more comprehensive.   But also sometimes wrong completely.

10 minutes ago, Bill R said:

It seems to me that the amount of soot deposit on my tailpipe has increased.  I can not say for sure, but it does seem to be more lately.  Then again, I admit that as I become a more seasoned owner of a Class A DP I am more sensitive and aware of things on the coach.  I have one pic below of the tailpipe after I cleaned it, and then another pic of the tail pipe just about after 500 miles of driving.  The exhaust is not smoking at all and is clear. 

BOTH the engine and generator exhaust pipes are accumulating soot at about the same rate.    So I am thinking it is related to the diesel fuel.  There have been two recent changes that I am wondering if they could be contributing to more soot and would like the expertise and thoughts of this forum.  If it includes that I am being hyper sensitive and that this is normal, I'll accept that.

1)  The first change is that I have recently been predominately filling up at smaller gas stations , i.e., Sam's, Costco, and the like.  I had previously mostly been filling up at Truck Stops.

2) The second change is that I had been treating the fuel with Power Service Diesel Kleen and have switched to using Opti-Lube XPD All-in-one diesel treatment more recently.

Would any of these changes cause more soot deposit?  Thank you all.

 

 

Looks normal but then what do I know?

Oh heck yes. If you don't have them buy them. Ur TSTs have saved my bacon twice.

One time it was less than 2 miles from home that I had a problem with my brakes dragging on my toe. That's the kind of thing that can catch the toad on fire and cause a real problem. I won't even take it down to the shop for service without the tire pressure monitors working on all 10 wheels.  Like I said has saved our bacon twice.

The Watts link in front and cross bars in rear made our coach corner like a sports car and the tail wag is gone.    Looking to put the cross bars on the front too.  Just had Cary from Kaiser Brake & Alignment, in Eugene , tune up our alignment and inspect the king pins and other running gear.   He was very caught up in wheeling around on test drives.  Maybe the shortest wheel base in a pusher at 196 inches but our baby can corner.  I gave  him an opening to sell me shocks, but he passed on replacing the Bilsteins on there.  After deliberately crossing some tracks and gutters he said it pretty well stops bouncing on the second bounce which is all you can hope for with our RR8R chassis.

Kaiser in Eugene  and Henderson's Lineup in Grants Pass seem to be the Gold Standard for undercarriage.   Both were recommended to me by Source Engineering Inc.  the guys who designed the specialty shocks for our rigs.

I stripped our back to factory default.  That dumped all maps.  Then in a three hour + process, I hooked it to a computer and downloaded only the newest map sets.   With a clean install it is working better and smarter.   

Only time will tell if I cleaned it up enough.

2 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:

Since you are using shunts it is absolutely critical that you utilize ISOLATED DC to DC chargers so that your shunt readings will be accurate.  Renogy does not make isolated DC to DC chargers, but Victron Energy makes a mix of isolated and non-isolated DC to DC chargers.  

In your shunt use case, you should only consider purchasing Victron Energy ISOLATED DC to DC Chargers.

Well it should be simple.   Shunt is the only thing hooked to the Negative terminal of the battery and all negatives or grounds hook to the other side of the hunt.  A simple buss bar can be added to give plenty of hook up points for Negatives.