TomV48

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/semi-truck-coach-and-bus/sli8daft

Duracell label, $249 with store pickup.  Order on line and great discount 

7 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I suspect meeces! 

You could try and follow the wire from fuse panel to radio (using a wiring diagram with color coded wire designations) but you'll most likely give up and splice into another wire of equal amperage. 

Good luck,

- bob

Me too.  When the buggers got me it was pex in the wall between the bedroom and the shower.   Good luck.

21 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

Interesting… I have the same RCA unit but mine is positioned above the driver side. No idea why they switched it. 

That is where my speaker wires terminate, above the driver's window.   Thinking about a small Pyle tuner for about a hundred bucks from Amazon then maybe put a CD/DVD/blue Ray player in the hugh space behind my 32-in flat screen that used to be occupied by I guess a big old RCA or Sony vacuum tube TV.   I pulled that cabinet apart when I mounted of the Samsung 32 inch up there and cut the cabinet back and upward several inches but it is still a huge void.   My buddy has a 2003 Holiday Rambler imperial with an amazing multi-disc changer.  He says they enjoy that while they're traveling but I'm not sure I want that much electronics when my wife can simply bluetooth her iPod over with all the music we need.  That in dash car stereo is not 5.1 surround sound but it has two pretty good speakers right over our heads. And two more pairs on back through the coach.

I had a very similar disaster befall me at the Reagan library on a Sunday.  I was only in a Ford explorer and I forget how but I found my way to a recommended shop after the auto club guy came put a little charge on the battery with his truck and jump started me.

Truck driver recommended was in fact open and seem to do right by me.   Cant complain on a Sunday.  The next day on my way home I got an intermittent alternator light.  I think I had that darn flashing light  for a year or two until that alternator failed.   Best explanation anybody could give me was crappy rebuilt alternator.

13 hours ago, Donflem said:

Good looking coach. I’ll throw my 2 cents in there about toads. Ford has a new Maverick truck that you can flat tow. I ordered one last September and picked it up May 20 so far we love it and oh by the way $27k out the door.

I like it DON but DW says I can only get a new TOAD if I get a 4X4.  That Hybrid looks like it is only available as a TWO WHEEL DRIVE.  Can you comment?

I had a MOLEX similar to that behind our original nocold 1200 when we pulled it out.  Sadly it looked original and was used to poorly connect some 120vac pathways one of which was the Micro

I had the installer cut out a bunch of surplus wire length and join the connections in a proper junction box before the NEW NOW COLD 1210 went in

Welcome Greg. 

I was a lurker reading this site to reassure me about buying our coach.  Since we purchased in January of 2020 the site is invaluable.  Great source of information helping to preserve our great  coaches from extinction.  

How can I order a few laft and right side covers?  Black if color is an issue.

On 6/24/2023 at 5:22 PM, Gonzalo said:

good idea but i check for voltage in the GFI and get noting  so i wonder were the power to GFI come first 

 

Mine comes from one side of  the Magnum output.

I could use a few.  As the rig passes 18 yrs old I am sure more will start to go away.

1 minute ago, HJK2005 said:

Our Dynasty already had one in the bedroom. I could probably pull it down and take/post pictures of the mounting. If anyone is interested? Not 100% that it's factory but rather looks like it was. - Jonathan

That would be a big ask that I don't have the courage to ask.  But thank you for that daring suggestion.

Thank you Wrayj1

By any chance do you have a photograph you can share.   I have the raised panel pieces off the original norcold refrigerator which we replaced I've cut the raised panel section out of the freezer door portion and I have 10 and 1/4 x 12 1/4 solid oak.  

11 minutes ago, Wrayj1 said:

We installed one and used a 1 x 10 finished piece of wood to attach it to the ceiling with a hole for the wiring. We pulled a round ac duct to locate the aluminum ceiling structure.

So then you hung the board along  just one aluminum ceiling joist?   

My  joist are 16 inches apart and to catch the second joist would have to involve a stupid big board.(I think)

Well I have the fan in my possession. 36-in blade diameter for blade 12 volt.   Of course it has three screw mounting points in about a four and a half inch diameter circle.  So no real chance to hit a ceiling joist with all three legs.  The blades are very lightweight but the motor hub itself weighs 6 1/2 or 7 lbs and the instructions talk about how to balance it to avoid wobbling which is of course a problem anytime you put up a ceiling fan.

   I have a master plan for installing it. It uses a wireless remote control and I can get power from the adjacent fluorescent light which we don't use very often anyway so I can turn the light off and steal the power from the source cord.

Before I start poking holes in the ceiling I wonder if anyone else is hung one and what they did to support it against the ceiling.

How long is that couch?

23 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Read my response.  I need to know how many wires or cables are on the bottom….this is important….

In the for what it's worth department,  in our 2005 Ambassador the inverter is Magnum and has two 20 amp breakers.  One Powers the Micro and the other leg powers the GFCI outlets only and  does not include our bedroom or outlets like the engine heater etc.  When I have a GFCI only  problem, I can tell it's the GFCI only when the outlets in the bedroom still work ( on gen or shore power of course)

5 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I guess your Allison doesn't have an oil level sensor to read the oil level on your keypad therefore according to the instructions you only push the arrows once to get into diagnostic mode.

FYI.  My book tells me I can check my trans oil level at the right rear corner, but I HAVE NO DIP STICK, ONLY THE ELECTRONIC oil level check at the key pad SO MAYBE HE HAS BOTH???  My oil fill related research says that Cummins does not install the engine dip stick as it is dependant on the build layout  and the BUILDER to place it.  Maybe in my case NO TRANS DIP STICK WAS HR's choice so maybe the oil dip is also a builder option AND MAYBE WE ALL HAVE ELECTRONIC CHECK TOO

3 hours ago, Mocephus said:

Hi Tom,

I’ve used these guys before. Very helpful over the phone in matching connectors.

Moe

https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/automotive-connectors.html

Thank you I'll give them a try

As a related question. Does anybody know the model or manufacture or brand of those darn connectors that are prolific throughout the coach.  I have not been successful at finding a match for them and desperately need to replace some of them and to add some wiring in other places that I would like to keep similar.

My techie son even took a photograph of one of the connectors and amplified the tiny little stamping mark that might be a brand name symbol.  He ran an internet search and could find nothing.

All I've got to say "pretty colors" for an rv

Well I'm thinking temperature related can only be a couple of things.

A bad battery connection with expansion and contraction of the metal May create a resistance when you go to start hot.

There may be a problem where the starter needs to be shimmed.   I had that problem with an old Chevy once Upon a Time. Original starter didn't need shim replacement starter needed a slight shim to avoid it being too tight to engage when warm.  Seems like I did it with some thick gasket material create a spacer.

Also had a starter that had a solenoid sitting on top of it .  The solenoid kept failing. Well it was a late model Mercedes-Benz 5 cylinder diesel and I just couldn't believe it.  Finally learned that there was no heat shield and the turbocharger, sitting right above it, for whatever reason was starting to run hotter than it should and it was smoking the solenoid below it.  Finally rebuilt it by milling (reaming) the diameter of the coil/sleeve and the Piston so it had a little more clearance and after doing that is only failed every couple years (hey don't say it a turbocharger on that thing was expensive back in the day)

Then what happens to me all too often, I buy a part thinking it's new and it's "remanufactured" and something fails almost immediately because the remanufacturing process involves taking things apart cleaning and replacing the obvious stuff and slapping them back together again.  Since the pandemic I kind of wonder if new parts aren't made about the same way.

Best of luck and when you figure out the problem please let us know.

Tom 

24 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Using the dead-bolt is a more safer and secure way to lock the entry door. Those locks on the entry door handle are fairly generic and as far as I know there are not that many versions of the keys that open those locks.

Pretty much the same for the bay door locks.

Have you tried to go to a fairly large RV dealership where they most likely have all of the various versions used and available in their key inventory?

Or possibly you could just swap out the tumbler assembly for a new one with a set of keys.

I believe those entry door handle/lock assemblies are made by Trimark.

https://www.trimarkcorp.com/sr/media/pdf/Service_and_Replacement_Rev5.pdf

Here is the web link to the one available at Veurinks RV for $92 - https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/monaco-rv-paddle-latch-08704363-p/190039.htm

Thank you for that TriMark booklet I will need it sOMEDAY but hopefully not soon

On 9/5/2020 at 7:45 PM, TomV48 said:

That is my problem.  Finding a competent alignment shop to handle rr8r chassis alignment in my area of southern California.   Any one find a place that had success  within 50 or even 100 miles of Ontario, California?

Well, in the end, I took it to Pete's tire in Fontana and they took a look at it and told me their guy in Corona was where I needed to be.   I let Pete's Tire and road service in Corona align it. 

 According to the report he was able to tweak the caster a little bit by somehow using shims.  Sadly I wasn't allowed in the shop so I couldn't see what he really did.  He definitely straightened out the toe in and the darn thing goes down the road much better now.

Good news is he charged me a total of only about $140.   While the Big Time RV repair services that told me they could do the alignment, wanted generally $200 to evaluate the alignment  (Pete' s in Fontana put it on the rack and let the computer read the numbers-  but only charged me $60 for setting it up and giving me the printout). And then those two, unnamed, Big Time RV repairs wanted $200 per axis that they adjusted. So theoretically that alignment could cost me $800 and neither of those shops told me a story that convinced me they knew what the hell they were doing any better than Pete's truck shop.

So far so good I'm watching tire wear on my new tires, because after all if it goes straight down the road and the tires wear right it's a good alignment by my standards.

9 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Tom, I feel I was lucky that I didn't buy an upper level motorhome when I bought mine new. Reading about the problems with DEF and multiplex on the site, I feel blessed. There is so many things that go wrong and I, personally, don't have the desire to head down that road at my age. I am glad I got a 40 footer with a bath and a half.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Well on balance we're very happy with our little 34 footer. The way I look at it that just gives me more usable cargo capacity then you guys with the same chassis 6 ft longer.

But I came so close on a very low mileage 2000 Dutch star with a 8.3 but a side radiator.   That was the point at which a lot of coaches were still basic White fiberglass and I offered the wife that if I could have that Dutch star I would take it to the paint shop of her dreams and have it painted any color she wanted.   But we paid more got an 05 and I'm stuck with that rear radiator and I'm learning to work around it.

On 6/11/2023 at 12:28 PM, Frank Bergamo said:

Try a spray lubricant into key slot. Tri-Flow is what I use when I get a sticky lock. Spray and work the lock with the key, should loosen it up. Hope this helps.

Yup, a nice clean lock lube will do wonders for old tumblers.   I use Boeshield  T9 and it works magic on most locks and on the inside of the Hatch door latch mechanisms too.  At 18 yrs, in sandy dusty, SoCal, about all my locks are acting up more often than I like.