CapnDean

Thank you Tom Cherry! Soft Reset completed no joy. On to the hard reset.

08 Monaco Camelot; On shore power or generator power I have a circuit (microwave and several outlets seems to be starboard side only) that is dead unless I select inverter on. With the inverter on - the circuit is live. All 3 AC units have power as well as the refrigerator (residential) when on shore or Gen power. I have cycled all breakers, and even gone darken ship hoping that a fresh re-boot would resolve the issue. It hasn’t. There are no fault lights or anything. I am suspecting it may be in the transfer switch But have yet to remove the cover. Tossing this up here hoping that someone will say “go to the run bay and swap relay number 4612” or something that easy. anybody?

Lol. You good. Bring the link and the tie rod end. We will drink beer and fix

During annual maintenance I noticed that the boot on the south end of my drag link was disentegrated. The Tie rod end was not worn yet. But I dont like the sand and grit getting in there. On my Camelot 42PDQ the drag link has a crook in it about 1/3 of the way forward. This makes it so that the tire wont rub in a hard right turn. In order to keep the crook in the appropriate plane, the tie rod end on the south is crimped into the rod. This make it non adjustable and non removeable. So they thought. A new link with new tie rod ends on both ends will set you back $1700 if you order through REV who doesnt know squat about an 08 model. Or.... You can do what I did here, I hope I can load the photos. Tierode end ES431R from Moog $50, one cutting wheel $2. 12" of welding - - well I am guessing I woulda charged me $40. What you are seeing is how I cut a slice out of the drag link, unscrewed the old tie rod end (MOOG ES431R) and screwed in a new one. I then welded it back up so that it still cannot move.

10 Boomer.....your evaporator is the problem too? Wow. I bought this Coach 2 years ago KNOWING that the dash air was problematic. The original owner had taken it to the AC repair shop 3 times - - each time they would tell him that they couldn't find the leak but of course charging the system solved the problem. He explained that after the third trip and $270 charge he gave up. ME? I am much more hard headed than that. First we replaced all the O rings, then two schrader valves. We found a slight leak in the condensor and replaced it. Thought we had it until I noticed a die stain at one of the lines coming off the compressor. Replaced that line and fitting, THOUGHT we had it again..... Wellllll.... This time my mobile ac repair guy, rolled it into his shop and hooked it up to the sho-nuff monster non portable machine. That machine flunked it on the vacuum test. Portable machine kept passing it. This led us to the only thing we havent seen.....the evaporator. Open up the box, put on the funky goggles and grab the black light..... looks like a murder scene in there. I sure hope this gets it. Really love the coach, but cant drive HOT.

We have repaired every freon leak that we can spot: Condensor, Air Dryer, Compressor - - Still losing freon. Cools like a bandit after you charge it, but 2 weeks later no Joy. Since we can find NO evidence of leak (yet unit fails the vacuum test) we went after the only place we cant see. Low & Behold the Evaporator box has dye stains all pooled up at the bottom. I will call REV group tomorrow and try to get the part number from them. UNLESS of COURSE..... Somebody here has done the dirty deed and has access to the part number. I would much rather order an aftermarket unit if there is one.....

96 EVO I am not sure that Zone 1 ever came on. Once I set 2 & 3 to Furnace.

2008 Camelot 42PDQ : Hopefully I can articulate well enough. Outside tempertature was 50 degress, went to bed with all three AC units set to Heat Pump. Temperature dropped overnight to the low 20's - Woke up to a cold coach and the AC units silent. I am thinking that they shut down because it was so cold....'there was no heat to pump'. The next night, I set zone 1 to heat pump and zones 2 & 3 to furnace - - same thing, Zone 1 ran and produced heat, I suppose until sometime when the temp dropped really low. When I awakened, we had a toasty bedroom because the furnace (which relies on aquahot on diesel) did it's thing, and again the heat pump remained silent. Anybody know what the outside temp needs to be to shut off the heat pump? Anyway to make it switch from heat pump to furnace on its own?

I bought a pair of Oreillys Super Start rv marine batteries. They don’t advertise a cranking amp but they do say 120 minutes at 75 amp

2008 Camelot 42p The 4 golf cart batteries finally bit the dust. Swollen and won't hold a charge for more than a few hours. Napa GC2 golf cart batteries were Dated February 2016. That is plenty old enough to suit me. I did this mod on a previous coach with excellent results: A pair of deep cycle marine trolling motor batteries. Now before the AMP hour mafia come after me..... I have a Samsung RF18 residential fridge onboard. When we travel, I let the inverter keep it rolling. If we stop for the night at a place with no power....no big deal let her rip. The rest of the time? We don't typically dry camp anywhere. Heck I would venture to say that the longest time we have ever spent without having 110V available was maybe 24 hours. Of course if we had to we would run the generator, in fact last time we spent the night at a welcome center.... It was hot and I had just learned my house batteries were shot, we ran the generator all night anyway for the sweet air. If you dont boondock for long periods.... you might try the same. Who knows? It sure is easier to keep up with 2 batteries than it is 4.

2008 Camelot 42P: Ran from Gulfport MS to Charleston SC & Back. When I left Charleston I got an amber warning light flashing for about a dozen flashes, then it quit. Coach ran like a singer sewing machine all the way home. Each time I shut it off and restarted it, I would get the same flashing light for a bit, then it would go out. I did a quick search of the internet and found multiple posts saying that it is the way that the ISL 400 tells you that you have a stored code and you need to read it. My code reader was at home (SIDE NOTE: its always at home when I need it in the coach. If I am on the boat and I need something, its at the house. If I am at the house and I need it...you got it, it's in the RV...and I am not only talking about my code reader) Several of the sites also suggested that their most common code was water in fuel indicator. Well they were spot on. That was the code and that was the problem. I drained the water sep and did not get much water, so I tried to clear the code and my reader would not allow me to clear it. BUT: I changed my fuel filters and you got it..... was able to clear the code. I am glad that I carry spare filters in the coach. This time it didnt even slow the motor down, usually I can feel it when the filter is in need if service.

Ok I did this on my previous Coach (2002 Fleetwood Discovery 37T) and it worked well. Has anyone with a larger Coach (such as my Current 2008 Camelot 42PDQ) ditched the 4 or 6 6 volt batteries in favor of a pair of 12's? From the outset, I am well aware that 2 12V deep cycle batteries do not provide the same amp hours as the 4 6 Volt golf cart batteries. BUT: In my case - does it really matter? I removed the dometic gas/12V fridge and replaced it with a Samsung RF18 residential fridge. We love the upgrade because it gives so much more fridge room. So in reality, the only time that TRUE amp hour capacity matters to me, is when I overnight on an extended trip and leave the fridge pulling on the inverter. That was never a problem with the discovery as the 2 12 volt batteries could handle this with ease. While I am underway without the generator running, the Alternator is keeping up with the fridge. I think I only camped without power for one entire night the whole time we have been travellers, lets just face it, we usually go where we can have power. AND.....If I couldnt find power, I would likely run the generator anyway. Anybody else have this same bright idea?

I got it today. I cycled the master batttery switch on and off and the lights begin to work again. The chassis battery master switch. a great thanks to all of y’all that responded.

2008 Camelot 42PDQ Worked fine dragging toad all the way to Lafayette LA. On the return? No turn signals & no Emergency flashers. Makes no difference with or without toad connected. No clicking sound from Flasher relay replaced flasher relay no joy, replaced relay that says turn signal - no joy. While camped in Lafayette I did stand the steering wheel up straight in order to rotate captains chairs to the rear (something I dont usually do) - I removed the plastic shroud around the steering column and all the connections appear to be secure and not pulled apart. What I cannot seem to glean from the schematic sheet I have...... IS THERE a fuse? IF SO.....Where the heck is it? There's a whole pile of automotive style mini fuses in the drivers run bay....F1 - F 97 or so..... am I gonna have to test every one in order to find out which one gave up on me?

not sure what you mean. Yes I have a thermostat on the wall, it controls all 3 roof ac units. The fantastic roof fan operates independent of the intellitec lighted switch panel. Whether the fan is selected on or off at the intellitec station the fan will respond to the knob on its face. Turning the fan on at the knob on the ceiling will start the fan but depressing the switch to turn it off at the intellitec panel will not shut the fan off.

2008 Camelot 42PDQ. For starters, I did not even know that there was one in the cabin. There is one in the head and it works like a champ. Touch the switch on the wall, it opens, the fan kicks on - touch the switch again, the fan cuts off, the vent hood closes. The one in the cabin has had a pillow stuffed in the hole since day one. So here's my story; I parked the coach up beside my house for Hurricane Ida. My barn has a tendency to flood. Today, I was out in the coach and I hear the fan running...I knew the AC was off so I hunted the noise - pulled out the pillow and VIOLA there is the fan, its on, its running, the hatch is open. BUT: the switch on the wall will not turn it off {on OR off} I cycled the switch on the fan itself and it answers properly to the factory control knob. I can work the knob and get speeds 1,2,3 etc. Now here's the goofy part. When I turn the unit on manually, the hatch opens electrically as it is supposed to. When I turn the unit off manually - I have to pull the knob and go into manual mode to hand crank the hatch into the closed position. Rotate the on/off knob to the on position....the hatch opens and the fan comes on as it should. While tinkering with the wall switch (it operates 5 other things - lights water pump etc) the other 5 items come on and off as they should. But selecting the ceiling exhaust fan results in nothing but the obvious click of a relay way over on the other side of the coach. Maybe 3' away from where the exhaust fan is. Anybody ever have this issue? I am not really inclined to work too hard to fix it since we have never used the exhaust fan AND....if I want to use it I still can. Its not exactly a down gripe ya know.

found one. Radiator Supply House Factory OEM $534 Thanks for the help!

Anybody know where I can find a replacement condenser for my 2009 Camelot? Its a RR10S Chassis. Radiator is on the side. The Condenser is easily accessed for replacement. I would like to find the factory unit rather than to retrofit one that goes on a big truck. It's 18X28" in case anyone has ever had to find one.

Ok guys. AH it is. No heat pump.

Here in South MS it seldom freezes. However we are in for a hard freeze this Monday night. My coach stays in the barn on my property and has 50 AMP all the time. I plan to run the heat pump starting about mid day Sunday to get her up to temp on the inside. I understand that should the temp drop low enough, the heat pump doesn't have any heat to pump. The system calls then for the furnace to supplement and in my case with the AH in the OFF position, it wouldn't have any help. My question> Would it matter? All I seek is for the Heat Pump to keep the interior warm enough to protect from freezing. outside temp should be mid 20's for 10 hours.

Sounds to me like you changed the fuel filter. Before doing a whole lot of trouble shooting, hit the prime button and run the primer for at least 30 seconds, Do this about 5 times and then try to start. See what happens.

I ran boats in the oilfield for years, we never used any sort of biocides or additives to the fuel. We often got fuel that had been pumped to us from God knows where - BUT: We used some pretty thorough filtration. The best is a centrifuge, but next to that I would recommend a FASS system. The FASS system includes a pair of filters, a primary with water sep and a secondary (fine) filter. Here's what is so good about it.... It pumps roughly 90 gallons per hour and returns to the fuel tank what the engine doesn't use. Our engines use roughly 7 gallons per hour under load, they return to the tank maybe 2 or 3 gallons per hour. What this does is basically polish the fuel onboard constantly. If you took a 5 hour drive, your FASS pump would have filtered nearly 500 gallons of fuel, since we hold between 100-150 gallons, our fuel would be filtered 4 or 5 times. As the tank gets lower on fuel, it gets polished more and more. I'm not knocking the fuel treatments, as they are very effective at killing algae and keeping your fuel in good shape. I just think I would rather spend my money on having it super clean from the start. I did buy a boat that had 500 gallons of very old diesel aboard, I shocked the snot out of it with biocide and thought that I resolved that issue. Well I was half right. The first time I got it in rough seas I found myself changing filters every hour. Seems the biocide killed all the growth and the seas stirred it up. The upside to this particular boat was that it had a detroit 871 series engine in it. Anyone that is familiar with the old 2 stroke detroits will tell you that they return 90% of the fuel that they pump. Essentially, the engine polishes the fuel for you, but when the fuel is nasty, you gotta have filters on hand!

Well, as it turns out... It was the pressure switch all along. A new switch and it works like a champ. It also shuts off when it is supposed to. 96 EVO thank you for the suggestion, I already did that in my efforts to cure the leak. it worked. I used just a squirt of Kroil - It did the trick. I am still not sure how the mini compressor plays with the main engine air compressor. I do know that the running the main will air it up so that the bags have enough air to level. I do know that as the bags bleed down and the coach levels by letting air out until it is level. Obviously it eventually would run out of air to let out, so IN comes the mini. So what stops the mini from coming on and charging the brakes and all.

In addition to a bad pressure switch, I have discovered that there is a slight air leak at the intake air filter of small air pump. I confirmed this by removing the threaded in air filter and blocking the hole with my finger. I’m afraid that this means a bad diaphragm in the pump. Not completely sure

Learning as I go. While anchored at a rather notso level RV park - The small compressor that is there to bump up the system went off and wouldn't stop running after an extended period. Ultimately I killed the power to it in order to shut it up. I know that I have EITHER a bad 90-120pressure switch OR a compressor that is not building pressure. In my troubleshooting efforts, I got to thinking.... It would take forever for the small 12V compressor to air up the coach from scratch. I am trying to understand the process here so let me get this straight: The air bags are inflated by the main air system on the coach. That said, when I roll into a park, I have plenty of air to level up etc. As time marches on and the bags leak down (5 days) the small compressor ought to kick on, bring it up to 120# again and VIOLA another 5 days. Herein lies my question - If A man knew that his compressor was shot, he could start the main engine and allow the Coach air to bring it back into tolerance. Am I correct? If that is the case, then what stops the mini compressor from trying to air up the whole coach when it is parked? When I have left my coach un-used for any period of time, first thing that I do when I start it, is to wait for the main engine air compressor to bring the system up to pressure so that I will have brakes.