CapnDean

Donflem : couple of days for my brothers rig. Over a week for mine HOWEVER- mine required removal of ceramic/porcelean tile and it was done at my barn in Gulfport Ms. It wasnnt a rush to finish and Jason did other jobs in between. I am sure that if youre from out of town and on a schedule, he would schedule for that and accomodate. I guess I should have stated in my original post…. Jason is a floor installer by trade… Hardwood, tile, etc. Hey….I managed to get 2 photos of mine loaded!

FINALLY I can add something Useful to this forum! This forum has been very helpful to me over the years and it's about time that I am able to give back. Maybe 10 years ago I travelled from Gulport MS to Greenville Texas to get the only man in the southeast that would do it.... to remove my carpet and install LVP in it's place. Actually...I removed the carpet myself at home, dug out all the staples, then drove the coach (at the time I owned a fleetwood discovery) to Greenville for the man named Ernie Ekberg to do the job. He was talented, patient, and meticulously thorough. He removed the furniture and did his thing - - WOW we loved the work, Fast forward to this year, our 2008 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ had ceramic tile throughout with the exception of the carpeted bedroom and the carpeted slides. This tile had 16 years worth of wear, travel, dropped hammers etc... Maybe 4 broken tiles and 3 or 4 tiles coming up. We decided that we wanted to go with th LVP like we put into our discovery. There is no subfloor damage anywhere, I am attributing the broken tiles to items tjat we have dropped onto them and the tiles coming up could have been glued back down and grouted if we chose. I found a guy in Long Beach MS that is a solo operator floor guy. I talked him into doing mine, he had never done an RV before. He meticulously removed the firniture and did a fantastic job boxing in the raised box in the back etc. He did such a good job on my Camelot, that my brother came to town with his Dynasty and got his done too. I have tried my best to upload photos from my Iphone - - But I cannot seem to get more than this one of my brother's coach to load. If you want yours done and cant find anyone... Jason Yeadon 504-563-2172. It is a New Orleans LA number, but his place is located in Long Beach MS. Also known as the land mass in between Mobile Alabama & New Orleans La.

How many pixels is 48 mb?

2008 Monaco Camelot 42pdq Cummins ISL 400 roadmaster chassis. skip all the baloney from the dealer. Measure your pan, if it 3 3.5” from the trans housing you need the tall filters. If it is 2” you need the short filters. The short filters will work in place of the long ones, but not recommended. the 3.5” pan unit needs 5 gallons of transynd if you drain the fluid and change the filters. There are 6 bolts on each filter cover that require a 15 mm socket. Be careful not to over torque on reinstall. It needs 35-40 foot lbs. Drain plug is a 3/8” drive extension. Took me a lil time to get one of the old gaskets cleaned off Other than that - the job is as easy as changing engine oil. i use 2 cheat methods that make this a breeze. I dig a trench with my mini excavator so access is easy underneath. I have a 12v jabsco transfer pump that I use to pump fluid from the bucket iinto the filler tube. So easy a caveman can do it Cost me about $300 for the filter kit and Transynd fluid. Took 2 hours including the trench dig and test drive. Fluid was not ever changed by original owner Filters were labeled “installed by manufacturer 04/02/2007. The fluid that drained out looked great and the drain plug had very little mud stuck to the magnet. I post this in case anyone else is waffling on doing it themselves. Save the $350 dealer labor.

I removed the nevercold 1200 and installed a Samsung RF18. More room and my inverter will hold the fridge well over 24 hours. If I am going longer in a dry camp situation….I’ll run the generator some. The huge space difference sold me. Compared to the nevercold the RF18 has plenty of room. 2008 Camelot

I have the 450d

Outside air temp 70 degrees. Coach is set to electric water heat NOT diesel. Nobody using hot water - no heat requested by furnace - not set for engine preheat... And the AH blower cranks up and the diesel heat fires up for a few minutes.... Just like I need hot water.... but I dont. I have no water leak or anything,.... anybody?

HOLY COW They work absolutely great! I ordered 20 from IDOC57 and could not be happier! THANK YOU!

Okay so system heat is 12v strip heat in the wet bay. That’s what I needed to know. Thanks all for your responses. To contend with the upcoming cold weather I have parked the RV in the barn, set up a small space heater inside the house and turned on the Aqua hot to electric heat and turned on system heat. I think this will do because: Gray tank is empty, Black tank is empty with 5 gallons fresh water in the bottom. my barn has sides, but the north end is wide open (no doors). I believe that I am set up to handle a few days cold. I will report if anything failed me.

My 2008 Camelot 42PDQ is parked in the barn with 50 Amp power to it. We are in for some unseasonably cold weather this coming weekend. I am in Gulfport MS and we seldom see temperatures in the teens for more than a day or two. We are anticipating high teens for 3 days. Ill run a space heater inside the coach to keep the house above 50 degrees. I plan to turn on "system heat" which I understand is the basement heating system that keeps my water tank from freezing. Do I need to set my AquaHot to electric heat in order for System heat to get heat? Or does it have it's own strip heat or other source?

And now for something totally different; i yanked out 6 dead 6v Trojans that were 7 years old. I replaced them with 2 12v marine deep cycle batteries. yes indeed I know that i just severely reduced the ability to dry camp for days on end without running the generator. I am guessing that 6 6v Trojans would give me 3x the amp hours of my pair of 12v trolling motor batteries. This set up will allow my RF18 residential fridge to run overnight with no issues solely on the inverter. i seldom do more than a night at a welcome center on a trip. If i need 2 nights to get there….I’ll plug in somewhere.

In my system we found leaks in the condenser- replaced it, found leaks in a hose, replaced it, found leaks in the evaporator - replaced it. Replaced the thermal expansion valve and the air dryer. Continued to lose freon. We inspected the lines from the compressor all the way forward to the evaporator with the system charged with dye. Every time worrying that the leak that we could not find, was in fact a ruptured line that we could not see. In the end it wasn’t - the compressor was the ticket. Mind you that the coach always passed the vacuum test that the ac machine put on it. But we never asked it to hold a vacuum overnight or any duration over an hour. my unit has an over pressure “pop-off” valve. It has blown due to over pressure twice. Both occasions it was my fault! I started the Coach cold and let it idle while i replaced the air bag control valves. I left the dash air running and the main never achieved the temp needed to light off the hydraulic fan (i have side radiator and condenser) no cooling air flow caused over pressure and the relief valve relieved. Wife thought it was smoke and shut the motor down. Good thing I had dug a trench….. i had an air bag valve out and a quickly escaping air supply to deal with.

Lots of good input here! Thanks to all who took the time to report! I’m in year 4 of this 2008 Camelot 42PDQ- It had 32k miles on it in 2018 when I bought it. Now has 45…. Still learning!

Oh heck no. You think I can sleep knowing that the freon is leaking out on me? The hateful AC unit has been repaired! Throughout the process, everytime we found a leak, we replaced that component. I sat down with my service tech and had a nice long talk. He said "The only think we HAVENT changed.... is the compressor" - - Welp Guys...... It was the compressor. I have good cold dash air and have made 90 days without losing freon! Just goes to show you that you CAN pump enough money into it to fix it. A side note for those of us with SIDE radiators. If you are running the coach from cold Iron and are only Idling - - switch your dadh AC off. Here's why.... I forced mine into overpressure by doing this and the relief valve blew and discharged a pile of freon. It seems that at Idle our coach will take quite a long time to reach operating temp. Until it does that, the hydraulic cooling fan wont kick on. If that fan isnt flowing air across the radiator (and the condenser of course) if you run long enough the pressure will rise and psssssst out your juice.

2008 Camelot 42PDQ. I have triple roof units for AC as well as floor registers and even bay temp control. I understand some of the logic. But not all. If I select heat pump on the thermostat, my ceiling units do a good job keeping my coach comfy except when its too cold for the heat pump to be efficient. I understand that I need to choose furnace heat in this situation. Q1) Will the thermostat make this decision for me? Or must I physically get out of my warm bed and tell the thermostat to go to furnace mode? Generally when staying aboard at an RV park, I select "electric" mode for the AquaHot. It does well enough for 2 showers and dishwashing etc. I prefer not to use diesel fuel when I can use park electricity. Q2) Should the AH be able to support furnace action without the diesel burner? I think that the electric element is only 1500W and I just dont see how that would be enough to heat the coach. Q3) Is there a way to adjust the "kick on" setting for the diesel burner so that I may use electric and only use diesel when electric is totally overburdened? If I am on diesel & electric... the diesel burner seems to take over a lot sooner than I would like. (E.G. I am shaving in the lavatory and by turning in the hot water a few times....I hear the diesel burner kick on). and lastly.... i understand that the AH will use engine coolant heat to operate while I am in motion. When I select "Engine preheat" mode on AH.... I get that it is trying to heat the engines cooling water.... Q3). Does it have any method of circulating it? Or am I just sending a warm gallon or so of coolant to the engine when I start it? I appreciate any input from those wiser in these devices!

Yes… I replaced my 2008 model modified sine unit with a comparable 2022 model pure sine unit. The parts to repair my old unit were not readily available.

Yes it did. Problem solved. One side of inverter bad at circuit board. tech support said chance it with new board or replace whole unit.

Installing the FASS filter is a smart thing to do. You are polishing your fuel before you ever burn it. Make sure that you always have spare spin on filters for your FASS. Also…. You can stop changing the filters on the Coach as frequently. My FASS setup is 15 micron primary, 2 micron secondary—- then it sends the fuel to the original filters which are I think 10 micron and 2 micron. In theory….the 10 micron filter should never stop up. And the second 2 micron filter ought to be able to stay a long time too

Capt Pat - - CapnDean here.... How cool? I have a 2008 Camelot. It has been my experience that the center AC does not play well with the others too. I can run Zone 1 & 3 no prob, Zone 1& 2 no prob, Zone 2 & 3 no prob. But try to run zone 2 solo? Meh.....not so much. It's as if Zone 1 or 3 has to be set to run before zone 2 will wake up. I suspect your issue is in the load shed, Sounds like you're coach is shedding load either because it is truly feeling the overload, or perhaps its THINKING it is in overload when it is not.

Bought the coach 2 years ago. Previous owner had given up on the dash air after having it in the shop 3 separate times. Each trip he left with cold dash air. But within 30 days or so..... no dash air. Each time he returned to the shop, the freon charge was waaaay low. For sure it was a leak, He got tired of paying the shop a few hundred bucks to recharge it and look for a leak. I bought the coach and took it to the shop that works on my Big truck. Explained to them: Its a leak, we just gotta find it. The coach passes the machines leak test, but the dye tells a different story. We have replaced the dryer, replaced the condensor, replaced the evaporator, replaced the expansion valve and a couple of hoses that had a slight amount of dye on them. Now mind you that each of these replacements has included a complete vacuum down of the system and a recharge. (this is in excess of 10 trips to the shop) - even one instance the brand new condensor leaked! (warrantied no problem). Each time I leave the shop, I have cold air, only to find a month or so later that I do not. This last trip to the shop, the coach held a vacuum on the system overnight with no loss. I was ecstatic. We left to go on a trip, had cold air for about 10 minutes and then I can hear the compressor pressure relief valve blasting out freon. Back at the shop..... the system has lost all its charge again- - there is dye all over the compressors relief valve. vacuum the system down again, charge it back up properly.... and we are seeing pressure that is too high indicating poor airflow across the condensor or an obstruction somewhere in the system. I am as stumped as the technician is. I believe that perhaps we have clogged the system with dye somehow? My coach is side radiator and the hydraulic fan pulls plenty of air across it. Essentially the entire system is new with the exception of the compressor and the long lines from the evaporator. (Absolutely no dye on any). I am stumped.

Wellllll....... Tech support said my indication was that the back end lost communication with the keypad. After verifying that there was not a connector unplugged I learned that my fat butt will not fit underneath the coach when its not aired up. So I cycled the chassis battery power and the house battery power..... viola Problem solved. Man I would have rather found a broken wire or something.

Travelling home from 2 hours away, 30 miles from home the keypad alarm goes off. I have 6 red lights illuminated across the aft section of the keypad. Indication is fault to the entire back end of the coach. Pulled over, got valid tech on the phone. Verified the fuses were all good and did the power down reset of the system NO JOY. Tech explained that the default position is locked air so that the rear bags would not inflate or deflate to adjust ride height. But so long as I did not have a leaky bag ought to be safe just make sure not losing air and sitting coach on tires. Okay so I am home. What the heck can I check now? Tech told me that it was obvious that the keypad lost communication with the rear...... So.... Where to look to make them communicate again?

Regarding the CDL: I got mine on my 17th Birthday. 2 years after retiring (school principal) I went to renew my CDL only to learn that I had lost it 2 years prior. SInce I had not driven a School Bus in a few years, I neglected to send a physical into the state. MS requires a DOT physical every 2 years, but the license is valid for 4. I didnt realize this, I knew that I had to take a physical to renew.....just not every 2 years. ANybody realize what hoops they make you jump through NOW to get a CDL? Sheesh, I told em to pound sand.

confirmed no charge from charger and no pass through power to circuits when on shore or generator power. Failed Magnum 2012. New one on order.

OK hard reset complete situation has not changed. There is an entire circuit that only gets 110V when the inverter is on and the coach is connected to shore power or Generator power. I just noticed however that when I press the CHG button on the remote control panel nothing happens, I assumed that this is the "turn the charger on" button and since it is not illuminating, I may not be charging batteries either.