joefromperry

I would definitely be interested in the files, as my son has a 3-D printer. Cost of files for right and left sides? Thanks. Joe

At some point I got straps from Carefree that were too long and cut them to size.

When the Big Boy on my 2003 Signature was not functioning, I put in an Echo-Charge to keep both banks charged until I was able to clean / fix my Big Boy. I left the Echo-Charge connected, but removed the fuse, making it non-functioning, until if and when I need to work on big boy.

Well, hopefully when you parked the coach you added Biobor (or similar). Probably a good idea to change fuel filters, but I would not drain the fuel unless it's bad with algae. After changing filters, checking battery levels, etc., start it up and evaluate. If it's pretty cold, you might need anti-gel, if it wasn't added. Good luck.

Can I email you, Paul? My email is jwlorekjr@gmail.com. Thanks. Joe

I am very sorry to hear about your stroke, Paul. Thank you for the offer, but although I am interested, I'm pretty sure it's way beyond what I should spend for a tool I would use infrequently.

I don't see a German one. EDIT: I do now

Thank you, Dexter. The stuff I'm talking about here is pretty much for me in the yard. Anything happening on the road, I'd probably call my roadside assistance.

Thank you, Bob. My son and son-in-law do almost all of my heavy lifting. Thanks, Jeff. I'm looking at all options.

Thank you, Ben. I'm thinking I could probably pull/push 125 pounds. That said, I thought a cheater bar could/should not be used with a torque wrench; is that not accurate?

I have a 1/2" to 3/4" impact adapter. Would that not work?

Thank you, Tony. I've never used one of these. I have this Ridgid 1/2" high torque impact wrench; will it work with it? How does this work? Sorry for my ignorance. Thanks. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/18v-octane-brushless-1-2-inch-high-torque-6-mode-impact-wrench-r86211b

I'm looking at possibly purchasing a torque wrench that would allow me to remove and replace my wheels, meaning capability of around 500 ft-lbs or more. The pneumatic ones sound interesting, as I'm not strong enough to take a 4 foot manual torque wrench to 500 ft-lbs. A question, though, is how does one control a pneumatic wrench to stop at 450 ft-lbs? I'm thinking maybe something like this: www.vevor.com:.webloc

Thanks for the help, Bruce. Maybe part of my problem is that I have this purple plug here that is not connected to anything; you wouldn't have any pictures or recollections of where it might go, do you? I can't tell from any wiring diagrams I have. it's not a good picture because it doesn't show the other wire. I don't know what should be plugged where on this box. Any ideas?

Sorry for the delay, Bruce. When you say your radio worked, do you mean the audio, or were you able to see stations and other stuff? I can see the stations on my Aladdin screen, so I know the video part of the Aladdin does work, just doesn't show the Aladdin screens. There is a small group of wires to the back of the monitor, and then a single wire, which I thought might be a ground. Where does the Aladdin video signal come in, the bundle or the single wire? Thanks.

Thank you for the thorough explanation and diagram. My coach has two front slides, which are powered by the pump and solenoids in the front, as is the generator slide. I have six solenoids. I've been talking with Pete from HWH in Arizona, and he told me something a little different from your explanation; he said if the generator creeps out it is definitely a problem with the extend solenoid. Either way, when I get the replacement I'll put in in the extend position, and if the problem doesn't stop, I'll then put it in the retract position. So, I just installed the new solenoid, replacing the extend one. It's been a couple hours, not much time, but the generator slide is staying closed, not creeping out. I'll see what it looks like in the morning. Thanks for your information. Update: well, it's been 18 hours and the slide is still in. This morning I'll run it in and out multiple times, leaving it closed, and see if it stays that way. If it does, I'll consider the problem solved. Final update: It's been multiple days and the generator slide is not extending on its own. I've run it in and out many times, but it doesn't creep any more, so I consider the creep out problem solved by replacing the extend solenoid/valve. Thanks, again, for all the suggestions and info.

Thank you. This is exactly the info I need. Unfortunately, before I saw this I got some incorrect info and ordered the large solenoid. I didn't realize my mistake until I got it. Fortunately, the seller is going to exchange it for the correct one and I should be good to go. But I do have a question: exactly how does the system work? I know when I push the extend or retract, the motor starts, and then one or the other solenoids let the fluid flow. What is the function of the electrical connector on the solenoid? Is there an electromagnet that pulls the needle out or in? The reason I ask is that if I close the gen slide, in a short while it creeps open. But if, after closing it, I unplug the solenoid, it doesn't creep. And yet there isn't any voltage in the connector unless I push the switch. I'm not explaining this very well. Sorry.

I need to replace one of the solenoids that are used for my generator slide and my slide out rooms (all are the same), but I can't find a part number. I thought it was RAP39015, but that's about twice the diameter of mine. TIA

Thanks, Bruce. The Panasonic monitor seems to work fine to show the radio stations; it's only the Aladdin data that doesn't show. I like your idea, though.

2003 Signature. Suddenly, when I turn on the power to the Aladdin and push the joystick up, the red light on the joystick lights, but no Aladdin data shows on the Panasonic screen. However, the screen displays radio stations, etc. just fine. Bedroom monitor shows nothing either. Looking at the individual modules on the top of the bay, none are lit. I dug the control unit and video unit from in the dash, and both test for 12 volt power, and all plugs are seated. The only fuses I've found, both inline in the dash and in the front run bay, are all good. I do have one purple wire that is unplugged, or never was plugged in. Maybe snooze with a similar setup can take a picture to show me where the wire goes. Thanks in advance.

This is the tip I put on mine when I redid and wrapped the exhaust. As I recall they were readily available from multiple places. You just need the pipe diameter, and you're good to go.

update: so I connected a tone-tracer to the wire in the rear run plate, and I get a good solid tone on the power wire at the switch. This makes no sense to me. If the wire has no breaks, which the solid tone indicates, and it's connected to 12v power, how is there no power at the switch? Suggestions?

Suddenly I have no power to the bedroom slide switch on my 2003 signature 45 commander. Starting in the rear run bay, on the J5 connector, there is power to the red wire that, according to the wiring diagram, then goes directly to the switch. The wires are all bundled in the plastic conduit as far as I can see, but I'm not sure if there is some point between the rear run panel and the switch where a connector might be failing or the wire might be exposed. The wire runs from the conduit in the bays up through the vanity, which is not easily accessible. I'm going to try to use a tone tracer to see exactly where the wire runs, but I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and / or replaced the wire itself. When I jumper the middle spade of the switch to 12v power, the slide works fine.

It's very easy to take it apart and clean off the corrosion. Often that's all that is needed. There are some YouTube videos on it. That's what I did on my 2003 signature.

My tank is under the entrance step to the motorhome. Same tank as generator slide uses.