Robert92867

Are those oil lines crossing over the alternator?

Not a snap ring.  That would be easy. And the split ring is round, like 3/64" diameter high strength wire that has no holes in it. I picture in my mind a machined tube, perhaps split twice, that can be fitted over the ring once it is placed in the groove and then a hose clamp compressing this machined tube, then driving the Stop ring over the split ring in one quick movement.  That would be a good tool to include in the rebuild kit. 

My first encounter with a difficult Stop Ring was rebuilding my Holset HX35W Turbo.  I bent the stop ring trying to force it in and ending up buying another kit.

My second encounter with a difficult Stop Ring was yesterday, replacing a chipped pinion Gear on my Delco-Remy MT28 starter.  I already replaced the starter (unbranded $120) last year, but could not bring myself to throw away the original Delco-Remy.  A year ago I sourced the pinion gear/clutch assembly, and a month ago I sourced the repair kit.  Again, it was installing the Stop Ring that gave me trouble.  I tried force, ending up bending the ring a little, straightened the ring then tried the method show below in the picture.  After maybe 100 tries the Stop Ring popped into the Pinion Stop.  Now I have a spare starter, but there MUST be a better way? 

Holy Cow! You, sir are a night owl.  11:30pm on the west coast, makes it 2:30am in Georgia?

I watched instructional videos by FASS recommended installers.  They all said to put teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads of the flange fittings.  That is not right.

(i mean flare fittings)

TSD08100G.  That's the same model I installed.  I re-used the original reinforced supply line. I had some trouble with the supplied flange fittings from the discharge side of the FASS pump however.

Curious, what FASS kit did you guys install?  I installed the one for a Dodge / Cummins  and it ended up being a poor choice.  The fuel return line was only 13', the brass flange fittings were poorly machined, the connectors didn't match, the relay was Nema 1 (indoor only rated).  Would the kit for Class 8 trucks have been a better choice?

Follow-up.  I ended up dropping the fuel tank again and fabricating a 3/4" brass stilling tube for the 3/4 return fuel tee I pictured above, the day after I last posted.  Call it peace of mind.  I finished a tour of the AZ state parks, 1,500 miles and 5 fuel stops, full load of 4 people, no toad. I can report.  Performance seems unchanged.  (not that it ever ran bad).  Fuel economy went from 10 to 12 mpg, averaged over 5 tanks. Even after doing the math twice I still can't believe 12 mpg,  probably got some tail winds coming up from Tucson.

What is the condition of your tie rods? Any unusual vibration, clunking noise, or pull to one side or the other? How do your track bars look, are the thru bolts tight? Check these before jumping into the steering gear. and yes, the h frame only applies to RR8 chassis. Many have advised 2-person inspection;  One turning the steering wheel while at idle, the other underneath observing for loose parts.

Looks exactly the original factory installation. like mine.

The first time mine cracked, after 10 years, I glued in a new piece.  The second time, after 20 years, I glued (2) 45 degree pvc elbows at the stress points.  I hope the latest fix outlives me, as I am running out of options.

You are not the first.

I know.. "cheap chinese parts".  But CDEC is an authorized Cummins manufacturer, and sometime for vintage parts, that's all you can get.

Anyway, I took a chance, it was listed for a B series Cummins, but my pump has a splined drive, so it's a paperweight.  If you recognize this pump, and want a spare.  Pay shipping (probably under $40) and it's yours.

Above posters have made good points.  I just want to add that I have stored my RV in a covered storage in Needles, CA. for 22 years. The dry desert air prevents humidity and corrosion problems and prolongs the life of the vehicle.

Question:  Do the full size Monaco have flexible hose fill lines?  In general, I found Monaco used top quality hose for coolant, and oil.  However, the photo below shows my diesel fuel fill (I think it's 2"?) hose cracked and seeping fuel.  This was 9 years after production. I replaced with a more suitable hose, which has served me for 13 years without signs of failure. I know this because I dropped my fuel tank this month and checked the interior / exterior of the diesel fill hose.

Looks like a bad spot to repair.  Glad you made it home safe.

regards.

18 hours ago, mschfmkrs1 said:

Please read their latest policy change effective February 2022.  We had AAA for over 20 years carrying the best RV coverage because we've always owned 42 or 45' Monaco Signatures, however last time we needed a tow, they would tow but only reimburse us $500 and the tow was 18 miles at $999. Consequently we no longer have AAA, just an FYI.

I was concerned, I am a similar policy with AAA for 46 years.  It appears that AAA RV Towing policy is conditional on the region the policyholder lives in.  In my case; California.  My policy shows I am covered for a 200 mile tow.

Look at the condition of your axle... grey faded, covered in factory applied underseal.  Notice how your swingarms have a new(er) paint finish, without the factory undercoating.  They have definitely been replaced.

Someday I'm gonna find some fluorescents nobody wants.

This thread ends here.

It's been 3 months since I parked my Motorhome and put it up on jacks.  I replaced the cylinder head, put a rebuild kit in the turbo, and upgraded to a FASS fuel system.  Plus many other small items too numerous to mention while waiting for parts to arrive.

My experience with JB Weld on the original plastic tank was that it held for 1000 miles, by the time I had completed a 7000 mile trip I was adding a gallon of coolant a day.

Got it

On 10/23/2023 at 2:20 PM, Craggar said:

I live in Alberta and have always stored my m/h's outside with no issues. Never have a problem with my batteries either for whatever reason even when it's not plugged in. This year I'm leaving it plugged in and put a trickle charger on the chasis battery. I don't think the sun does too much damage in the cold winters we get either, mine is parked beside my shop and doesn't get much sun at all so that helps. I never start it during the winter either, even if we get a warm spell I won't start it until spring. Only thing I do is go in and check the traps for mice at least once a week.

I'm impressed.

Out of all the electrical stuff (wrong) connectors and (cheap nema 1 relay) included in the FASS fuel system, I only salvaged some wire and split duct.  For everything else, there is Amazon. Then I did a fresh install starting from scratch, the way I wanted it in the Rear Run Bay.  Added a Manual Bypass Switch to fill the filters when I change them.

End of the line for FASS fuel system project.

I ended up putting a 3/4" tee in the engine fuel return bung hole in the diesel tank, and bringing the FASS return line in one side.  I hope there isn't going to be too much aeration, as I could not figure out a way to run a stilling tube down the inside of the tank.

In my opinion, the damage (both visible and unseen) caused by inclement weather will outweigh the costs of dry storage.

Since I had to drop the 75 gal. diesel tank to run the FASS return line I did some investigation as to why I've never been able to fill more than 40 gallons when the gauge/idiot light read near empty.