Robert92867

13 hours ago, Jeff H said:

Hello

Has anyone gone from Carlsbad to Alamogordo.  My Garmin is saying to go north to Roswell and then across 380/70.  Google says to go Artesia and across 82.  I assume there is a low tunnel or some other reason not to go the shorter route.  How are the climbs?

It's doable.

11 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

The Air Drier has power to the internal Tstat in that its used for a heater element, when it sences freezing temps it turns on to eliminate freezing.

My coach had no system in the back for key on power or fused battery power.To be sure it a “busy” electrical closet however in the top right is the 6 gang fuse box… half is battery power, the other half is key on power. I needed  power taps for several different options, “TPMS transponder, trailer tow charge wire,FASS pump, it just made sence to have a fuse box that accommodated my needs…

 

Looks like everything is nicely labeled. Getting back to heated air... starting to make sense.  It is critical to the operation of the air brakes to be supplied with dry air, to keep the brake actuators from locking up in a freeze.

Zion is a magical place. I like the less traveled canyons.

11 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey Bob good morning, so the last pic shows i had cut the wire leading to the lift pump, an the sacraficial relay that is only there to fool the ECM. 
Ok so if i remember right the fass uses a power relay within the harness ( i do a lot of custom automotive wiring an frankley cant remember) anyway due to the power requirements coming off from the key on power from the circuit of the air drier, i used a automotive relay connected that uses that key on power as the signil wire to operate the relay coil. From there the other side of the relay (connector 30 and 83) supply 12 volt power to the pump using the 10 amp fuse required by fass. The only other thing i did was to install a momitary switch that is right next to my fass pump so that when i replace the filters i can operate the switch for priming which eliminates a second person leaving the key in the on position.

I build circuits like that due to needing a switching circuit an not wanting to (over load) the system im scabbing the signil from (ECM)

I like the idea of a bypass switch.  Since it would be in the battery compartment, I'm thinking small marine weatherproof disconnect (on-off).  I scoured my schmatics for a key-on circuit.  Nothing back there unless I cut into the circuit going to the ECM, or run another conductor from the front run bay.  So I'm going to stick with the interposing relay fired off the ECM and use a hot battery circuit for power supply. I've stripped out the old lift pump and the engine mounted filter.  Nice to be able to access that area easily now that its wide open. Does your HR have the ISC 8.3? If you have an Air Dryer, I suspect you have air brakes. I wasn't aware the Air Dryer needed power.

3 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

So like it was said, you do not need the check valve, as for the harness it does not connect to the ECM, if your tying the signil wire of the FASS to the old lift pump, thats not how it is to be wired. I know the circuit to the old lift pump is not seeing a load it will illuminate the check eng light. So for that old circuit i wired in a “go nowhere do nothing” relay to fool the ECM. i wired the activator fass pump relay to the air drier circuit so when the key is on the pump just runs and yes it is a tight fit from the fitting to the filter can, if its too tight then i suggest adding a extension for more clearence. I can honestly say the FASS on my coach has transformed my performance of my rig, two things come to mind, the smooth idel which allows me the ability to use my side mirrors at idle now, the second is how easy it starts. 
the only thing extra i have done was to add a fuel pressure gauge so i can tell what pressure is doing as filters start to have issues.Rik, did you abandon-in-place the old lift pump and fuel lines? I don't quite know what I'm seeing here.

Sorry gents, I beg to differ. The brass flange elbow fitting supplied by FASS is only catching 3 threads, and they look ragged, like they were cut on a Harbor Freight machine tool.  I notice the fitting pictured in Rik's post has what appears to be a Parker steel jic flange elbow fitting, higher quality machined threads.  As for the OEM check valve, the purpose was to prevent fuel from siphoning back, not because the OEM Carter lift pump wasn't self priming. I do understand the purpose of a interposing relay. 27 years as a heavy industry electrician in the IBEW.

You guys have CAPS injection pumps.  The lowly ISB 5.9 has a VP-44 injection pump (a real piece of shyte) that operates differently.  The lift pump runs all the time the engine is running.  The lift pump is a 12DC output direct from the ECM.  The stock lift pump draws less than 4 amps no load, the Fass pump (mine is only 100 gph) draws 6 amps no load, figuring 150 % inrush current, the FASS could blow the ECM fuse.  So the interposing relay will be fired by the ECM, enabling a separate Key-On circuit.

With all the breakdowns that can happen to an "antique" RV, and the stress of having said RV towed to a questionable shop for repairs that might take months.  Calling for roadside tire assistance is very low on my priority list. Changing a 22.5 or 24 tire, is actually easier than a car tire. 

Not impressed with FASS...

Did you get your jeep sorted out?

Driving these antique, out of production RV's gets more challenging every year.  I'm not going to wish you good luck, as luck apparently is not working for you this trip. Could have been worse... The original built-in-the-radiator trans cooler would have wiped out the Allison.

Check your pipe thread size, needs to be 1/8" - 27 npt to match.  Otherwise the 200 Centigrade max temp range and voltage and terminal look like a match.

With the Eclipse occuring in your area on the 14th it is going to be difficult to find a reservation anywhere near the zone. I had some Eclipse contingency reservations made.. Richfield KOA, Arches NP, that I made months ago, but I had to cancel.  Arches (Devils Garden Campground) is a tough nut to crack, If I get my own mechanical issues straightened out, I will be there the last week of Oct. Good luck with your Jeep!

Extracting a pipe plug, using a cool trick i read about back in July in one of Brad H. posts...

No help on the propane smell, but I looked at the pic of your rig in your profile.  That's cool how the condensate on the outside highlights all the structural elements hidden behind the walls.

Have your batteries load tested. Check resistance (ohms) between +battery and starter. Check resistance from -battery to engine block.  Sorry to hear about your health conditions.

Slow but steady progress.

On 6/18/2023 at 12:55 PM, Steven P said:

@Mike Wahl mine is similar to what's written above.  I have a bumper from Rockhard 4x4 and wiring from e-trailer.com.

I use a Ready Brute Elite towbar. Been using it since 2019 w no issues.  I've towed a CJ7, 2019 4dr Wrangler and now a Gladiator (rubicon).  I needed to use a hitch riser to make I level. I've been pleased.  Lots of videos and help on those websites to look at.  Didn't have all hooked up in pic below. 

Nice flat tow bar. Good idea raising the hitch, added bonus: no bottoming out.  That Ready brake unit I use also. Cable direct to the brake pedal from the inertia lever works ok.

The cylinder head arrived from Fleece.  Very nice quality, had I not measured .004 milled from the combustion surface, I would have believed it to be a new casting.  Assembly ongoing, slowly.  I noticed this morning yet another subtle difference in quality from original 2001 Genuine Cummins and the 2019 "Genuine Cummins" (made in China) crossover tubes.

That would be for the O2 detector

When I said "radiator support cracked" I meant the angle iron Monaco welded to the frame to support the rod tied to the fan shroud.  A zero penetration vertical pass..  I can't blame this on CGJ

I wonder why they .jpg resolution suffers so badly, I will try a .tiff

CUMMINS ISB WIRING DIAGRAM lower 1.tiff

IRV2 and Lazy Days say 05 Roadmaster Chassis has a 50 degree wheel cut

https://cgj.com/product-category/oil-coolers/motorhome-oil-cooler/monaco-motorhome-oil-cooler

Their website gives detail dimensional data for an assortment of Monaco Motorhomes.

I have bought radiators from them twice.  The first one failed because a radiator support weld broke, and succumbed to vibration.  The second one is 8 years old and still going strong.  So I give them a good rating.

The new style split-end snap ring made all the difference.  The shaft dropped in with gentle finger pressure.  Tolerances are tight, bearings are new. 

Nice work.  Better build quality than a lot of Monacos work. I used that same construction method (plywood table surface surrounded by hardwood trim) to build a work bench.  I abuse that surface considerably, and I am surprised how well it holds up, despite the paper thin veneer. Somehow the laquer seems to make it more durable. The #2 awg looks like some serious electrical distribution.

That compressor in the top pic is the factory rear ac compressor?   12 volt powered off the alternator? If so, it must be a pretty large current draw.