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Pulled access hatch in rear closet. The two lines I thought went forward to heater do come off the engine block below the alternator. no valves at the block that I could see. The big surprise was that the SCR filter is in one of the hoses. With a manual valve in the heater water line that is shut during the summer, not much water is circulating thru the filter to mix in the SCR. Pulled about 12 oz of existing antifreeze to send off for analysis. Where are people sending there antifreeze and what does it cost I have seen pictures of a new style water pump for the ISC from a post were a guy lost his WP seal and was leaking gallons of water. The original design looked like sheet metal formed into the impeller. The new has a "cast" impeller that is said to greatly improve water flow. Anybody changed their's out? Still working on were the heater hoses connect into the coolant passages in the block.

Going to siphon out the probably 15 year old ATF in my PowerGear reservoir and replace with new Dexron III. I found the following in the PowerGear install and maintenance manual while I was looking for how much ATF I needed. I have not been keeping up with their recommendation for greasing the jacks. 6. Jacks equipped with grease fittings at the bottom of the cylinder should be greased with a light weight lithium grease using a hand pump style grease gun only. 2 or 3 pumps should be sufficient for 20-30 uses. I missed this b4 when I read thru the preventative maintenance section. 12 years behind on changing the fluid.

Matt, thanks for giving me a direction to look. It turns out my PowerGear controller is on the firewall, just to the left of the steering column mounted up high behind a mess of wires. was able to get picture with model number that I can send to PowerGear to discuss logic. also know were to look if issues that could be a blown fuse. Last week, I read a post and really wish I could give the guy credit. He reminded "us" in his post that there are grease zerks on the bottom of the leveling jacks. He stopped having retract issues once he greased his jacks. The zerk is ported into a very small area below the rod seal and above a wiper seal at the end of the outer housing. Too much grease injected could flow past the rod seal and end up in the ATF hydraulic fluid and would not be good. Looking at the PowerGear repair manual, there is no seal on the piston, it only has a wear ring. Fluid comes all the way down to this rod seal. With my jacks retracted, I squirted two pulls of the lever on a small grease gun into the zerk, rotated the base plate about 40 degrees each direction several times returning to the original orientation and then inject one more squirt with a few more rotations. I have now retracted my jacks about a dozen times and have had 100% full retraction of the jacks. Before, 80% plus I was having to lift one of the jacks to get it up. This worked for me and I have only a week or so of use after injecting the grease. Something could fail the next time I use the jacks. The standard warning only do this if you think it is the right thing to do. My rear jacks have internal springs. I was very careful to get them back to the original orientation so that the internal spring did not unscrew from the end fittings. Hope this helps

good day working on the MH. removed lines from entrance and exit of the inline heater control valve. lost some coolant in the process and air into lines. used two hose barbs and installed 8" long 5/8" clear tubing to replace valve. started up ISC and went to fast idle of 1200 rpm. air bubbles, maybe from air in high spots of line, flowed thru the clear line with pretty good velocity, 6" of clear tube and gone in less than a ~1/4 of a second. water temp in engine up to 140 degF but only maybe 100 coming thru line. reinstalled inline heater valve with clear line at the input. flow thru tubing when dash request hot and pretty much off when on cool. I had planned on removing return line off heater core to blow thru with low air pressure but the line is up very high and would have to remove other stuff to get to it. The flow I saw thru the clear tube leads me to believe that the core is not blocked. Tried to find source and return of hoses on engine. looking thru the bedroom access hatch, I found two hoses running along the driver side of engine compartment, on my MH just under the hose that I think contains the dip stick that allows measuring trans fluid level from the rear of the engine compartment. Hoses got warm as engine warmed up. Just above, maybe 4", from the turbo but hose still feels ok. tough to follow hose from that access hatch but I think I found one going into a extension off the engine just under the alternator that I believe is part of the plumbing for engine water going to the radiator. going to take searching from access panel in back closet and underneath to be sure to find it. Thinking of disconnecting the inline valve and bypassing by installing a barb fitting. will drive the MH enough to get full heat and road rpms to see if any heat. when running on the heat side of the selector switch, I saw the AC compressor kick on/off. When in the vent position on the AC side of the selector, the compressor did not come on when I looked. Only problem with the vent position is the outside air damper is open. Ivan, I would be interested in how you hooked the damper in the closed position. Do you have issues with the evaporations coil freezing up in humid weather? Have been wondering if a small valve could be installed at the dash to route vacuum to the outside air actuator when needed to close the door. Maybe use a cable that would allow varying the amount of closure. Rik, part of the search at the motor is to determine were the supply water comes off with respect to the thermostat. We live in OK and go south were it can be even hotter. I guess in theory, as long as you have enough cooling capacity, it does not mater if the water is in the 180 or 190 degF range when you start doing something that will need more cooling. I appreciate the comments. I do not have AquaHot. Told wife about Ken's suggestion of running the electric heaters. She has given me directions to figure out how to make it work, sometimes she has too much faith in my mechanical skills. Her toes were pretty cold last week. I do have a small heater and it is a last resort option.

2004 HR Scepter, DP Cummins ISC. Specialty Control Systems on the HVAC enclosure for the two cores. SCS has been "purchased" by Victory Control Systems and did not find any information on their site. Dash AC works very well. Previous Owner installed inline heater shutoff valve in line to heater core, engine side of dash controlled valve. In Colorado last week and needed heat so opened valve. Heat has been marginal at best, except once or twice pretty warm over several weeks. Engine temp per gauge is in the 180 degF range. Electric actuator for water control valve tracts to hot/cold knob on dash and appears to be opening and closing valve. outside air damper closes on max AC. I did not check outside damper to see if closing on OFF. dash/floor/defrost vents all supply air per setting. fan speed changes per knob, good air flow. Vacuum pump makes a bit of noise but does shut off after engine start and changing air control knob to change damper position. Seemed to run longer at 7,000 ft elevation than at 1,400 ft at Tulsa. To keep cold air from entering, set to max AC to close outside damper and heat to hot. air exiting dash vents was a bit warmer than inside but just a bit. Felt hose/manual metal valve going to heater core and it was just warm. Plan is to pull heater hoses off valve and heater core and install clear hose to bypass core to see if good coolant flow with engine running. Use low air pressure to confirm flow thru heater core. confirm that valve is actually opening and sealing closed. Wondering if the manual valve shutting off all flow to the heater core can cause the passages to get blocked? Something I am not sure about. From the u-tube heater coil replacements I have seen, it appears that the air on these systems flows thru both the evaporator core and then the heater core. I see posts that talk about dampers that seem to be between the cores. It use to be that the AC compressor ran during defrost to dehumidify the air so the defrost worked better. Does that occur on the SCS system? Is there a damper that controls flow thru one or the other core? Have looked at some of the Evans trouble shooting documents. Not sure if their info is basic and the same for the SCS. Will also see if I can find where coolant lines going to heater core come off and return to block to determine if there are shut off valves at the block. Any other suggestions on how to get more heat?

I spoke out of line. There have been a lot of post were an extend stay connection has been installed and many of those did not have solenoid valves located at the tank. Therefore they would not have a solenoid switch.

2004 HR but camera and monitor have been replaced. Camera works. Monitor shows good picture but buttons only work about 10% of the time. Monitor is WDRV-7063M surface mount, 3 camera inputs with the 4 pin screw connectors. System will self select right or left input (no cameras) and it takes multiple pushing of buttons to come up with a combination to get back to the rear camera. My system has an 4 pin adapter to get to the RCA connectors coming from the original cable run to the rear of the bus. Tim at RVCAM has told me this is a early LCD monitor because the wires connected to the monitor have a multi pin plug in connector. Later cameras were hard wired to the monitor. Hoping someone has a take off that worked that I can purchase. Live in Tulsa OK.

Thinking later in the evening about the tee and hose that goes down and under the lower cover. As u stated that the generator did not work, I would assume it is propane. It would require high pressure gas, not the 11"WC for stove, fridge and furnace so is probably sourced off the tee and hose, upstream of the solenoid. If the generator is not working, the only thing in the picture I see that would keep it from receiving gas is the white valve labeled VAPOR. Newer DOT tanks have excessive flow checks and other stuff in the valve. I do not think you would have one. Someone above asked about it being over filled. What does the gauge show? Does the amount you paid come to 1/2 of the 80% capacity of the tank? U stated tank was 1/2 full. a propane expert might be able to safely open the relief in a well ventilated area and determine if a solid stream of liquid was coming out of the vent which might indicate it was over filled.

Probably already got this sorted out but this is what I would do to get it going. Making an assumption that" nothing getting gas" means at the stove, there is no hissing when the knob is opened. Check voltage at the terminals of the solenoid valve, lower right corner, should be battery voltage, around 12.8 vdc. Our Scepter has a switch for the solenoid valve very visible when the hatch is raised to the propane tank. Gas monkey has always turned that switch off, rarely turns it back on. There may be a switch in this area that he "knew" about or saw and it is off. Ours had an indicator light that was not working. Under $10 and simple swap, now easy to see if it is energized. (light PN in post on finding switch) If no power to the solenoid valve, causes might be switch off, fuse (worked b4 so probably not blown) or gas detector in galley kick board (opens power to solenoid) below sink of our MH. These are the main causes I can think of for it not to have voltage. It appears the piping with the tee is not connected to the 2nd White handle. If voltage at solenoid, is White handle valve really open or solenoid stuck. I believe all coaches must have a propane solenoid switch. Have someone switch it open and closed and hear or feel for the solenoid changing position. Solenoids do sometimes develop an open circuit and do not pull valve stem to open. You could measure current going thru solenoid or remove one of the leads and ohm the solenoid. Maybe around 60 ohms. The second white handle could be a separate port for liquid out of the tank or something entirely different. While the gas monkey was no tech, he should have been able to explain every step he took in filling the tank. If he only removed the yellow cover, connected hose, started pumping, opened vent to confirm when liquid reach the 80% level, filled tank until liquid spewed from vent, closed the vent valve, unscrewed fill hose and capped, then something "freaky" happened while you were driving/he was filling. he might have set a tool on the solenoid and blown the fuse. Hope u have or do find the issue.

While driving about 65 mph downhill into a 20 mph headwind, my wife noticed the awning above the entry door had rolled out a few inches. This awning has maybe 4' long arms on each side of the door. The awning pull is around 36" long so a decent size awning. mounted to the side of the MH are two clips that the awning arms "snaps" up against. There is a slide block inside the awning arm with two holes and wings that fit into the clips on the side of the MH. My owners manual does not address these clips and I have not had any luck in the past getting info off the Carefree website. Tonight it will not even come up. I pulled the sliding blocks down, pushed the awning arms against the clip and was able to get one of the blocks to slide up. appeared to be a position mismatch and could not get the second block up. Used side cutters to bevel the upper corners off the wings of the block and lubed the slides and I can push the clips up and "lock" the arms to the side. I am wondering if the blocks should be unlocked to roll out and locked to store by physically moving up and down or will they self lock/unlock when the awning is rolled out or up? not wanting to slam the the blocks and break the clips. what do others do? slow internet and can not upload pic at this time

Will pull shroud around steering column off in the next few days. I have siphoned and added back ATF to my reservoir a couple of times now. 1/4" ID clear tubing with 5 nuts screwed on the outside of one end to give it weight to hang down into the reservoir. used for 3 different siphoned liquids. The current level is right at the intersection of the fill tube neck and the main reservoir cylinder. My jacks retract completely at this level. Just a little above and the jack does not retract fully. Just a little below and the "jacks extended" light does not go out. To answer my question about the logic of closing valves, Powergear has asked for a picture of the controller. I believe that once the float switch in the reservoir is lifted by ATF to full, a timer may start and then the solenoid valves are closed, no more retraction of jacks. Maybe the controller closes valves so they can not creep down. Hope to get a definitive answer from Powergear once they receive a picture of the controller. There has been an instance where it was reported that the spring hardware "unscrewed" and would not let the jack fully retract. If the jack is coming up ANY at all, the spring is probably not broken, single acting cylinder (extend) with no hydraulic retract. From GoSkeeter's method, not sure if the jack is coming up any. If by using an external jack and the leveling jack goes fully up, the spring is probably is the correct position as the spring wire is pretty big and would coil bind and stop upward movement. Powergear has a rebuild procedure for their jacks. They do not list the spring as a replacement part but I thought there was another company that sold the springs. Will see if I can find the link. Just my thoughts. I have been very wrong on some things in the past.

Thanks, will give it a try.

Post is a bit dormant but the newest post on subject so I will add my experience. From a post on IRV2 that I no longer can find, the Gen control has a timer and checks for every thing to be good at a couple of time intervals. Thus the 55 seconds and close to 5 minute shut down. I got the 1/2" npt threaded section of my sensor out with the heat shield in place. 19mm socket and breaker bar to get loose, rachet to finish. the wire going into the sensor small diameter cylinder pulled out as the cylinder was stuck. tried going thru the thermostat opening with small pry bar to push cylinder out but no movement. Per another post, a hole saw was used to drill a 2" diameter hole in the heat shield to give access to the sensor bore. packed the thermostat housing with paper towels and ran a 3/8" drill into the cylinder. bit caught and spun the cylinder out. I expected the thru hole to be about the diameter of the cylinder. after picking away at the crystalized coolant, the hole is the drill diameter (approx) for the thread. vacuumed up all the crystals and installed the new sensor. Mine did not come with a new nut so keep the old one. JB Weld and the corner is now back in place. Some people are pulling their sensor every few years to keep the crystals from locking up the sensor. Another method was to chisel out a slot at one of the bolt holes of the housing that is blocked in place so the thermostat housing could be slide down and be rebuilt. if the threads in the aluminum housing strip out, that might be a good approach. Have 3 hours running since replacement to run cleaner thru system, flush and install coolant, the gen pulled 38 amps this morning with no shutdown. The JB weld is a bit sloppy but not many people will see it under the top panel.

Wife drove MH over weekend and I pulled up rear access panel to watch PacBrake in operation. It is working correctly and makes a difference in deceleration of the MH. I am so thankful we did not head off to Portland with the PacBrake not working. I have seen posts that talk about a two stage exhaust brake. That got me to thinking that maybe those systems used a switch when off the solenoid would not function and you get the braking I had before with a non-functional PacBrake. When the switch was on, full PacBrake. In the 1,000 miles we drove the MH b4 fixing the brake, the PacBrake was about right when running 65 mph down the hi way to slow just a bit. Anyone have experience along these lines? Have been reviewing electrical diagrams to see if there is a way to simulate the ECM asking for PacBrake to see if the brake lights are working. The issue is getting to the terminals with the relay in place. The only other way I can think to test is to have a follower in a car.

Not real clear and other posts touch on a potential issue. If there are only 3 wires, black, white, and bare, inside a jacket, they should go to the supply (line) side of the GFCI. By having a white that is giving you an open neutral, it appears you may have a second set of three wire that are used to feed a downstream outlet (load). These will go as a set on the load terminals of the GFCI and will be protected just like the GFCI outlet is. Wire groups can not be mixed on the line and load terminals on the GFCI. The black and the white of electrical feed (line) must have the same current or the GFCI will trip and therefore must be connect to the supply (breaker). The GFCI is also looking for the white neutral and the bare ground to not be connected downstream of the GFCI. Some GFCIs will have two places on the line terminals to plug in a black/white wires. This is used to pass the unprotected by GFCI power to another outlet. 20 years ago GFCI's were very expensive, over $50. The load terminals were used to pass GFCI protect power to a second outlet, maybe a different bathroom. When I remodeled, I passed the power thru to the second bathroom and installed a GFCI as the outlet for that bathroom. Breaker at panel still limited total current to 20 amps. Two hair dryers in different bathrooms could trip a breaker, same as b4. Having two GFCI's allows a nuisance trip from mis-plugging in something to be reset in the second bathroom.

There are many out there that have already replaced there Norcold with a residential. THIS POST IS NOT FOR YOU. This post is for those that for one or more of many different reasons have elected to continue using our Norcold. I am aware that this refrigerator has caused fires. For the second time in the last 40 days, GFCI at our storage bay started tripping. This time, several to many minutes after the Norcold was turned on to 120v. About the only thing on the frig that would trip the GFCI is the heating elements. Our 1200 has two elements. Sure enough, the insulation at the entrance of the wires into the sheath were grounding out on the element closest to the outside wall. I was able to get under the element with a small pair of channel locks and twist the element within the boiler sleeve. Rust buster on both elements. I used sheet plastic and towels to keep the spray from the boiler insulation. I did find that puddling a bit of the RB liquid in a cup and using a screw driver tip to carry a drop of liquid to the tube top was the most efficient way to get lube to flow down around the element. Probably the first time the element has been replaced as I had to cut the boiler insulation above the element. Finally got the element out. The back element does not have much room and it never turned. Electrical insulation on the back element was good so elected to leave in place for now. Been thinking over the last few days of how to get in to rotate the element if(when) it has to be replace. I came up with the idea of cutting a notch in a socket that would accept the element and a racket could be used to apply leverage. Picture shows the element inside the slot cut in the socket. This has NOT been tested. I know there is room under the front element. I am pretty sure I can get under the back element. The socket was a cheap no name 13/16" 1/2" drive Taiwanese that I have no idea were it came from. Easy to carry in the tool box and will give it a try the next time someone needs to free up an element. When you are pulling an element, you probably have tested the element and know it is bad. There is a possibility that the contact with the slot will dimple the sheath of the element. If you get a chance to use something like this or have a better tool, let use know. A washer inside the socket and a screw into a 2x4 did a good job of holding the socket in place while I ground.

Top of link where rubber end, circled in picture, is bolted to lever of air height control valve . Valve is to the left. rubber end at bottom of linkage (not shown) attaches to bracket on differential. This bracket is vertical, about 10" long and has 5 or so holes. The bolts thru the rubber end are shoulder bolts were the shoulder pulls up against the steel lever or bracket. the body of shoulder bolt is long enough that the sleeve inside the rubber end is free to rotate as the lever moves up and down with the body of the motorhome. This position is probably with the air bags deflated.

The parts shown above are slightly different than mine but should work correctly. The truck shop had both. The ones I got are Hadley, the same as the air height valves. There have been a few post about spraying with 303 protectant. would not hurt.

I have been chasing an air leak that allows our new to us Scepter to list to port (driver side) as the air tank pressure drops to around 70 psi. Lots of time under the coach and I noticed cracks in the rubber of the end links. Could not find just the ends so bought 3 complete kit. My local truck shop had them a bit less than the find my parts type place. I pulled the old ends of the old rods and installed the new ends on the old rods. The new rods allow up to 20" between the end link bolts and would have had to be cut. The original equipment linkage uses a clamp similar to what is used on PEX. It was not obvious until I had the linkage off. Preventive maintenance can really keep you out of trouble. Not sure how long the left badly cracked end link would have lasted. If it separated, the coach would probably have expelled all air from the driver side bags and been on the stops pretty quick.

Ordered several of the light in the above post. Came in and I installed today. Diagram on box states there is an voltage input and ground terminal but I did not see any marking on the light. First connection of wires and no light with switch on. reversed the wires and I now have a good indication of the propane solenoid being activated. One of the terminals on my old light had broken off.

New to us MH. I thought Pacbrake was working until I tried it on a short 5% grade and RPMs climbed very quickly. Previous owner only drove 4k miles in 4 years. These lock up if not used often. Some of these pictures I previously added to another post on Pacbrake repair. As this includes a method to activate the solenoid to test the brake, I have elected to start a new topic. I found the Pacbrake valve lever very stuck in the open position. Managed to get a small screw driver between the lever and pin to rotate the lever a bit. soaked both clevis pins, cylinder rod, and valve shaft with the Pacbrake oil. came back later and it was starting to move a little but no return by the spring (Pic 52). Oil, wire brush, moving the lever back and forth, more oil got it free and the spring would return it to the stop. Pacbrake has a good maintenance tech report. pulled the air supply hose and a squirt of oil into the fitting. Called Pacbrake tech department and asked if the solenoid had mechanical activation. Nope, 12 volt to the wires only. My wires disappear under floor below the bed. I could not find anything that felt like a connector. Last night, I searched thru the electrical diagrams and found the two relays for the air solenoid and to activate the brake lights when the Pacbrake is on. The relays are in the Monaco 2 fuse/relay box in the front run compartment. Ex brake 1 and 2 relays. Relay 2 terminal 87 is the wire going directly to the Pacbrake air solenoid (pic 61 & 62). I cut half of the ring off a small crimp terminal, pulled off the insulation and inserted it into the slot that the relay would have plugged into. Part of the crimp fitting is visible in front of the green alligator clip. This was my connection to get power into the terminal associated with 87 on the relay. Connected 12vdc from the big fuse block above and I could hear the air going into the cylinder and the valve hitting the stop (pic 53). With the air solenoid energized and valve closed, I cleaned the cylinder rod off and relubed most everything. Cycled about a dozen times and checked that it was going fully open and closed. A note on the relay diagram in pic 62, terminals 85 and 86 are the relay coil, the line between 30 and 87a would be the NC contacts in what is called the shelf state, coil not energized. When the coil is energized, power is delivered from 30 to 87, which is why I supplied power to that terminal. The bottom of the relay tells what the pins are. The fuse/relay box does not match up to the electrical diagram but the relays and fuses are labeled on the box. the darker yellow 20 amp fuse just to the left of the alligator clip is the supply to these relays. It was blown. I checked the current going to the solenoid when activated and it was 1.5 amps. Will replace the fuse later this week and go for a test run. I am a little concerned about how the fuse blew. The solenoid is either on or off. The current does not go up if the valve does not rotate.

Grease zerk at shaft of TRW box. Mine still had the rubber cap on so probably had never been greased. I have tightened my backlash almost a full turn, still have a little play. I shot 3 squeezes from a small grease gun into the zerk and it seems to have reduced the effort to turn the wheel. TRW bulletin states do NOT over grease as it will contaminate hydraulic oil.

I have hydraulic jacks for stationary leveling of coach. The system I am troubleshooting is the ride height system to the suspension air bags. Will use ride height system in the future.

Found this document. I believe this is the leveling valve used on our coaches. Found the valve for $80 on Amazon. HRS Hadley-450-leveling valve.pdf

I run my coach up on 3 levels of 2x's to give me an extra 4.5" of height. With the air bags deflated. I have room under all but the hydraulic only leveling jacks. I don't get under the jacks. Wondering were you extend you jack stands up to to support the coach. Jack stands would have to be close to 2 foot tall to reach the frame. The steel supports for the trailing arms might carry the weight of the coach but standard jacks would not go under them. In looking for leaks, I have tested with soap multiple times the following: air fitting to hose and threaded fitting into top of air bag x 2 bags, 2 Tees screwed into a bulkhead fitting, hose coming from valve, hoses to front bag and rear bag, hose to dump solenoid. Tees swivel on their base and do not leak at the swivel. no leaks on threads screwed into bulkhead fitting. dump solenoid fitting not leaking and not leaking thru the valve to exhaust port. Passenger side does not loose air. only driver side. I am beginning to believe that the air may be leaking backwards thru the leveling valve as the tanks loose air pressure. My next test will be to drain air pressure in the tank immediately after shutting off the engine to see if the coach tilts as the pressure goes down. That might indicate the backwards flow thru the valve if it lowers. I had been assuming that the leak was in the bag air system. It may be from the supply/tank with back flow. Gary, I have thought about installing temporary valves to isolate into sections with a pressure gage to tell if leaking. Rob, are you getting the better quality fittings online or local? I found the leveling valve at $150. Asked the company if they had a repair kit.