ok-rver

I have read posts were the individual tried adjusting the coupling nut between two rods at the handle and it did not solve their problem. My outside latch would barely unlock the door. It did help to push in the door to take loading off the latches but I decided I did not want to get locked out and it warmed up today a bit in Corpus Christi so worked on it today. Disassembly was similar to the video above. I removed the bottom right screws around the window to allow the frame to flex out with the panel. I also left the top two screws in the frame along the edge of the door as the inner plastic surface could be pulled out after getting all the other screws out. Lubing all the pivot points allowed every thing to move a bit freer but unlatching was still difficult. I wedged a can of seafoam between the door foam and inner cover to get enough room. The coupling nut is not a left/right threaded nut. I pulled the upper bent end of the rod out of the rotating bracket and screwed it in two turns, then reinstalled. That was enough to have a little tension in the rod against the bracket and the door unlatched when the lever was half way thru the travel. I would guess that over thousands of openings, the rods and brackets have seated into each other and enough slop developed so the latch was trying to unlock too late in the rotation. Hope this helps anyone attempting this adjustment. One other thing, the tapered ring around the dead bolt key was painted as part of the coach. I should have carefully slide the inner cylinder out and not broken the paint on the ring. I now have a very slight white ring around the cylinder. One view in the video above shows the ring still on the side of the door with the inner cylinder out.

wiring for 2004 Scepter is probably close to your's. dwg 38040913 "diagram, battery compartment" of a searchable group of diagrams I downloaded shows the bay heater power coming off a buss bar with 4 breakers. I looked all over for the breaker bar until I remembered that there was something in the flat panel with cover in my rear battery compartment. the cover said one of the items inside was solar. there is a relay connected to the buss bar on mine that I did not research but I believe it could be for tank heaters. I have not found the two connectors you have but have not pulled the inside cover off in my water/sewer compartment. they may be there. My water faucet is dripping water. will probably will have to pull cover when I fix.

I added to a post on IRV2 how my extend-a-stay was completed and will not repeat here. The steel female swivel fitting in the picture above was a size larger than the fitting in the valve and this DID NOT WORK as shown above. Could not find a female #8 flare swivel by pipe straight fitting. If I did this over again, I would look at replacing my house regulator to see if this supply and the extend-a-stay hose could be feed into a dual supply regulator and automatically switch to house tank if external tank went empty.

The angle u show on the black post does not give a front view. It does not look big enough to be a relay and u can not see if any smaller gage wires attach so your description of it being a terminal block with internal connection between the posts appears accurate. The voltage levels also would lead you to believe they are internally connected. That would lead one to believe that the isolation relay would be somewhere else. I would follow the house/coach cable back towards the house battery and look for a big relay that this cable would connect to and then continue on to maybe the house battery switch. The relay will also have smaller wires for 12v + and - to close the relay. At some point, I would pull the house cable off at one or both end(s) and then determine when the relay closes. If one end is left connected, this cable will have 12v and could carry 100s of amps if accidentally connected to a ground. Do u have a dash switch to combine and a sense circuit to combine when engine running or charger on? While lithium batteries are not normally used for starting engines, you MAY want to keep some method of connecting the two banks to "dump" charge into the engine battery if it is low and then disconnect b4 starting the engine. That would require leaving some form of relay in place. I installed a Blue Sea ACR between my house and chassis and I am very pleased. The automatic connect of the ACR would NOT be good between Lithium and wet cell.

currently only have pressure gage in port of pump. working on a sender and gage at dash. Looking thru the wiring diagrams I have, I did find some spares off the ignitions #1 block on cable C404 and later shown as P404 going to a slide controller. I may be able to find these towards the rear of the MH. Today I will be trying to pull a 4 conductor wire up into the dash area from the rear of the coach. Yellow for light to ACR switch I installed a month or so ago. The ACR was a great addition for charging house batteries from engine alternator or engine batteries from inverter/charger when on shore power. Ran small space heater off inverter while on test run yesterday as it was mid 20s around Tulsa. Saw 55 amps going thru the ACR from alternator going to house battery to keep the batteries at 13.4 volts. This cable will also carry the fuel pressure signal later on.

I agree with jacwjames on the hose functions. Looking closely at mine today, #4 is the 1/2" yellow tubing suction, #1 on my MH is 3/8" gray tubing return from the lift pump. I elected to tap the top of my tank with 1/2" npt and installed a dedicated return from the TS165 pump. My TS165 pump is putting out 18 psi and pulling 6.5 amps. The relay pulls around 0.1 amps. Is your spare fuse in the Monaco box #1 or #2 or in the big fuse box?

Just completed a FASS with filter install today. Both of my return lines were the size of your #3. Might be a good guess that the suction with the larger return would be the engine. I could see these line coming out of the frame rails in front of the tank but did not determine which was which. The fuse in the FASS kit is 10 amps. I may be able to measure actual current tomorrow on my TS165 pump. If you have a spare fuse port that you can connect too, a relay is probably not needed. I did not have any spare and it might have been difficult to find the wire in the harness that was connected to that fuse. My boxes have connectors that the wiring harness plugs into. The first FASS tech I talked to recommended the big pump and that was ordered. I call TS a couple of days later and was told for my 350 hp engine, the 100 gpm would have been enough. On my 2004, the fuel line for the engine is a funky yellow translucent plastic tube. My hose shop has no fittings for the hose. are you going to bend this to the other side of the tank to attach to your pump? I looked at the pump only system but did not want to have to change filter screens in the pump every 5k miles.

Not sure how similar your Dynasty is to our Scepter. See my post on "making Fixed Basement side panels open" I have opened both of my rear. The driver front wheel has the same type of cover and I will open it the next time I need to do work in that area. There are 4 pieces of strap between the frame and the bottom of the fiberglass panel. I remove the 2 screws that go into the fiberglass as the screw into the steel frame is pretty much rusted in place. changing air bags would only require supporting the MH frame weight and stabilizing the H frame. The passenger front panel on our coach goes up to the edge of the entry door. I do not think it would be easy to lift up. The air bags are very easy to access if the cover is open.

another update. Did get hold of the field guy for HCVs at Link. Good discussion. Submitted pictures to the distributor on the leakage at the HCV and they sent a new valve. Over the last few weeks, the 3 ride height air circuits have not leaked any significant amounts of air. Air tanks have gone to 30 psi over 36 hours but the check valve in the HCV keeps air from leaking back to the tank and our MH has stayed level for a week. Really nice to open the storage bay door and NOT have a MH leaning to the side. Well worth changing out the hoses and fittings going to the air bags.

Great comments. Van, I had not seen this type of clamp. Will keep it in mind. Rick, our compartments are almost identical. I will take a look at my air dryer to see if I can easily connect to it. It comes off the same fuse buss in the Monaco 1 fuse block as the other circuits I was looking at. My diagram shows a 15 amp fuse for the dryer but does not state the function. The only electrical function I see in that great Wabco document is the heater so guessing that is it's functions. Finding Blue-Sea parts is a bit difficult right now. I have found a decent block from Autozone that I will pick up today. I have relays being delivered today so should be able to wire up over weekend. I installed a ACR a couple of months ago, great addition, and will pull power from the heavy cable off the engine battery bank cable to go up to the new fuse block. I have a ground buss strip left over from boats that I will also add.

Many air brake systems have a wet and dry tank at the front, mine is one tank with a divider. I have drain valves on hoses in the generator compartment. Wondering if there is a line off one side of the tank that allows you to drain the wet side remotely. My rear tank has never had liquid. I started a post a while back on "Winterizing air tanks". From posts by others and research, I decided to drain the alcohol antifreeze from my system. In one of the posts, a link is provided to Webco dryers by Jdw12345. Very good reading and pictures of what a typical dryer would look like. Swapping the dryer cartridge is less messy than changing an oil filter, just install the oring on the thread if a Wabco.

Lots of good comments. I am now asking a very specific question, an extension of my post a few days ago. My pump will be mounted on the extension of the rear frame rail on the passenger side, opposite of what jegall posted in his pic about. The FASS wiring harness has been pulled into my battery compartment and is just long enough. I will install a Blue-Sea fuse block to provide power to the pump and a ground buss to bring it back to the engine batteries. There are too many rings attached to the battery terminals and do not want to add more. I do not run any positive wire without a fuse to protect the wire in case a short develops. A hold over from wiring many boats. I looked at pulling a wire from the Monaco 1 fuse box ignition on circuit in the forward electrical compartment. All fuses are currently being used. There is an ignition switched relay in the rear battery compartment. I have added a note on the schematic attached identifying it as CUMMINS ECM RELAY. I have good wiring skills and there is not a good way to pull the relay base prongs and attach an additional wire. There is only 6" of wire from the wiring loom to the relay base. I have decided to tap into one of the relay 12v switched wires to feed the relay included in the FASS wiring harness. insulation will be stripped, wire stands separated, new wire thru separation and twisted around original wire, coated with liquid tape. The wire labeled IGN A comes from a 10 amp fuse in Monaco 1 fuse box, labeled 108 KEY SWITCH. This wire to terminal 86 going to the coil of the ECM RELAY. Pulling the Monaco 1 box fuse shuts off the Cummins ECM and lift pump. No power on ACC. A wire comes off the battery positive thru a 7.5 amp fuse (DIAG) and is connected to term 87 on the ECM relay, labeled J1587 BAT (purple). This wire is alway hot, it does not go thru the engine battery switch. There is 1.5 amps current when the ignition switch in on but engine not running. Connected to terminal 30 of the ECM RELAY is labeled KEY SWITCH (red). When the ECM RELAY coil is powered by the IGN switch, KEY SWITCH tells the ECM to turn on. Two 30 amp fuses provide operating power to the ECM. schematic attached shows two tap points. TAP PNT 1 is powered at 12v when the ECM RELAY is pulled in. The FASS relay coil would be powered thru the 7.5 amp fuse(DIAG). TAP PNT 2 has 12v when key is on. The FASS relay coil would get power thru the Monaco 1 10 amp fuse. Both will energize the FP relay and cause the FP to run. FP relay coil pulls less than 0.5 amps. Not a large load on either circuit. If either the 10 amp IGN fuse or the 7.5 amp DIAG fuse blows, the engine will shutdown. If the 7.5 DIAG fuse blows, the IGN circuit would still be powered and instruments plus other stuff off this circuit would run giving some info to the driver. I am planning on tapping in at TAP PNT 1 in the key switch circuit. I am probably over thinking this but looking for yes or no's to where to tap for power.

Will be installing a FASS on my Cummins ISC HR Scepter later this week. Spent some time on the phone this evening with jegall (Jim) about his install on his Imperial. He found an ignition switch activated relay within his battery compartment that he was able to use to power the FASS pump. I have one relay hanging loose in the corner of my compartment that as no label. wondering if anyone with a Scepter or similar MH has found an ignition switched source at the rear of the coach? I did manage to get two 20 ft lengths of 1" sch 40 PVC pipe pushed thru the frame cross member holes from around the front suspension to just forward of the rear end. One for the return hose. The other will have the yellow wire needed to light up the Blue-Sea ACR dash switch. I may also install a fuel pressure sender at my engine with a display at the dash. Worst case is to run an ignition switched wire from the dash back to a new relay in the battery compartment.

We have a 2004 ISC and HR Scepter MH. I looked at the current coming in thru shore power when on 30 amp plug and b4 plugging in the element, I was at 4 amps. Plugged in the element and load went up 7 or so amps (1000 watt element divided by 120 volts, around 8 amps) . I have not left it on long term but there should be a temp rise above ambient temperature after a few hours. There is not a thermostat on mine that turns it on when cold. Plug it in and it draws current.

Well, this will not be the last time I was wrong. Stuck camera down at #6 end of cylinder head and found I have two 90 deg elbows connected to heater hose that turns and runs along curb side of frame up towards front of MH. Opened gen compartment and two hoses with loom come out on curbside and go to the heater core. The video of the coolant system I linked above show that these fittings would be connected to an engine mounted intercooler. The hoses are in the corrugated plastic loom at the rear and I think when they come out in front. The two hoses I originally found that come off the pump cavity, one goes thru the CSA filter go forward to above the driveshaft and runs across along a crossmember to the passenger side and then goes forward. What would be forward of the engine/transmission that would require coolant other than the heater core? The hoses go in above the basement compartments and will be difficult to track. Will look in front of compartments to see if they come out. I sent a request off to Webasto to see if their coolant pump would handle 200 plus coolant. Water in the block should be at 160 or more. I have not heard back from them. 60 feet of 5/8" hose is about a gallon of coolant. one of the pumps I looked at put out over 60 gpm.

Update to my question. The bracket on the side of the motorhome appears to be an aluminum extrusion and has NO give. The slide within the awning frame with the holes and flanges must be slid into the fixed bracket to hold the awning frame in place when traveling.

The rivets I purchased are Gr 5 steel and solid thru the area of the pivot. The original holes have worn oversize. I like the idea of the flat head screws probably 8-32 which is a bit larger that the 1/8" rivets I installed, taking up some of the slop. I am hoping that the peening with the hammer set the rivet in the outside hole and it will not turn therefore not wearing the "riveted" lip off. Using gas struts is also a great idea. Just a bit more stuff that comes from China that I would rather not buy. Gary, it might be possible to drill out the ends of the long rivets on the spring sections and disconnect those parts. I will keep that in mind if the rivets don't work out.

5 or 6 of the hinged lift up cabinet doors did not work correctly when we purchased our motorhome 4 months ago. Found the hinges at a couple of places at a cost of around $10 either each or for a pair depending on where you looked. I get great satisfaction from fixing stuff and not throwing things away/recycling. While recycling is better than ending up in a land fill, it still is pretty wasteful. Failure of all of the hinges was due to two of the rivets in the mechanism wearing to a point of the "riveted" end wearing off and the rivet no longer staying in the hole. (PIC 51). The rivets are probably less than 2% of the total assembly but their not being there makes the assembly almost not usable. I was able to salvage one of the rivets and it sat on my dresser for a couple of months. Two weeks ago, I got out my calipers and started measuring. I found what I believed to be very close to the original rivet and ordered off Amazon, cost under $10. Box of 72 rivets came in last week. I have now repaired 4 of the hinges. As I do not have the tools of the OEM, I have had to revise the install a little. Installed the rivet from the inside with the hollow base outward. Used a short tapered punch in the hollow base and channel lock pliers to start the flare. (May try a small ball bearing on the next set to start the flare.) Vise grips with several squeezes to get the rivet fairly tight on the two sheets of SS in the hinge. Finishing off with a ball peen hammer on a small anvil. Seems to be working pretty well on the ones completed and reinstalled. The SS of the hinge is pretty poor quality. In the picture without the rivets, u can see how it has worn/deformed as it rubbed on another part of the hinge. The deformation was cleaned up with a file. Will put a drop of lube on all the wear points of these and the other hinges too see if this will extend the life. It takes about 10 minutes to repair each of the hinges. Using the skills given to me by my higher power gives me satisfaction even if it does not really make economic sense to spend the time to repair each hinge.

The link provided by Jeff does a good job of explaining the different types of Wabco dryers and how the systems work. Turns out I have a 1200 with the regeneration valve. As I stated earlier, I installed a Wabco dryer cartridge about 3 months and 3k miles ago. The purge valve opens and I get a blast at around 125 to 130 psi. Only lasts about a second. If on a gravel parking lot, enough air that small gravel is flighting every direction. Under regeneration valve in the manual, it sounds like maybe this should be 5 sec with a 10 psi drop in tank pressure. Does that happen on other MHs? The pictures of the heater show what appears to be a snap disc thermostat installed inside the housing. Does not look like this would be "fun" to pull and test. Maybe I will remember to crawl under MH some morning when its 30 deg outside and see if the dryer housing is warm. Not sure if this is powered by the ignition key being on. Posts above discussed servicing the air dryer. Are there other actions that need to done?

Thanks for the pics. Will compare to mine on Friday.

On another post, I am working on a leak in the radiator basin hose that connects to the steel lower radiator hose. with the coolant drained, I elected to replace my old style water pump with the new style as shown above. per the original post, I have been trying to get more heat out of my cabin heater. I was pretty sure both of my heater hoses came off the side of the block in the area below the thermostat hosing and upper radiator hose. While I have not traced the hoses forward, one comes out and goes to the CSA filter and then joins up and two go forward. I can not think of any other need for coolant forward of the engine. with the pump out, there is a 6" cavity within the block as the supply/suction for the pump. too my surprise, both of the what I believe are heater hose ports connect into this same cavity. In my testing with clear tubing up at the heater core, I did see some flow but when checking actual temperature, I never saw over 110 deg. Not sure how there is any flow with both in the same cavity. I had hoped that the new cast impeller would build a bit more pressure and therefore more water flow. Not going to happen if both are in the same block cavity. Rik W, it would be great if you could post a picture of were the port is on your number 6 cylinder. Some of the pics of pulled engines for sale do show a hose fitting in that area. it would be good to know for sure. I will pull access panels in the rear bedroom and start looking for ports. There are a couple of good YouTube videos about coolant flow in the ISC engine. This is one. have not seen any that show a hose flowing off the rear of the block or that show a heater core. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmlLor8UIWY The new style water pump weights almost twice the old pump. Better bearings and seals as well as the cast impeller. Easy 15 min swap if the coolant is out. Mine had 10 mm heads on the 3 bolts.

I also did some additional research after the above comments. Sales guys peddle products that make them money, maybe not knowledgable about the subject. I found an article by Bendix that advised not to use antifreeze in their systems. My plan now is to drain the liquid from the tank. In my instance were the previous owner neglected maintenance, I would probably again flush the rust from the tank using small amounts of liquid but not leave the liquid in for any time. As stated in my original post, I installed a new premium dryer canister a couple of months ago as part of this process. I see that some dryers may also have an oil canister. I do not see that on mine. I do not have oil coming out the purge valve port and the system vents at 125 psi. Is there other maintenance that should be performed?

I will get to winterizing in a little bit. Purchased MH about 4 months ago. I knew about systems on a MH that were common on a sailboat and engine stuff but never had air brakes b4. Bought unit on consignment so dealer did not have a lot of time involved in checking out the systems. Drained air tanks in the first weeks after purchase. Maybe a pint of rusty colored water from wet tank and no water from others. Note: If not sure if you might have water in the tank, maybe slip a hose over the quick connect fitting and aim at some place rusty water does not matter. I had red splatter everywhere around the generator. While picking up replacement air tank pressure control valve from Weldon Truck Parts in Tulsa and they recommended running an antifreeze/drying liquid thru the tanks(CRC brand). I connected a 2' length heater hose to a female quick connect using a hose clamp and snapped onto the male air fill in gen compartment. Air tanks at atmospheric. Turns out the alcohol based product flowed into tank without having to put air pressure to the hose. added 1/2 of a quart and drove around a bit to slosh around in tank and then drained tank thru fitting (using hose to direct flow, I can learn). repeated, first few times, out came a lot of rust with the liquid. around 4th time, fluid was clear. Replace dryer cartridge at this point. It had water in it. It was recommended to add the antifreeze at the dryer by pulling a line loose and pouring into the line. We hope to never be in seriously cold weather, headed for South Texas area in January and current storage bay is very well insulated. Thinking the hot air from the compressor will carry any water to the wet tank. I really did not want to disconnect fittings at dryer. What I have been told is the alcohol evaporates into the air in the wet tank and flows thru the tanks, lines and brake components picking up any moisture as it goes thru and is exhausted by the brakes or by bleeding tanks. Seems reasonable to me. No moisture therefore no freeze up if caught in freezing weather. I needed to get my tanks to atmospheric pressure the other day and opened the wet tank vent. Out came about a 1/4 of a quart of clear alcohol. maybe 2,500 miles since the last time I added 1/2 quart of alcohol so it is evaporating thru system. after completing the project, re-added 1/2 quart. This time I used a smaller hose and clamped to the round section of the male quick connect. I have figured out that the male air connect goes into the wet tank. the female quick connect and tee with valve is connected to the bottom of the dry front tank. when bleeding down, I now use the dry tank vent and let the wet tank flow to the dry. I can see a weld line at the center of my forward tank for a bulkhead. Anyone know if this has an open port between the tanks in the bulkhead or is there an external check valve/connecting line somewhere that I am missing? It seems like I still had a bit of pressure in the dry tank after the wet tank was at atmospheric.

Been awhile since this thread was started. Gives you an idea of the time involved to fix some problems. I replaced the driver side Hadley height control valve months ago. The valve provided 2 new DOT airline compression fittings. Seemed like the tilting was less for a month or so and then it got worse. A few weeks ago I started spraying fittings and hoses with dawn solution. Gave the new HCV a shot of soap and the 4 bolt flange holding the exhaust port on the valve body was leaking at the flange. Another new valve and at least that was not leaking but still tilting to the driver side. I created a post several months ago asking about getting the wheel well cover to open to get access to the air bags and hoses. For this project, I was able to get the cover to lift up. See my other post if interested in the how's. Much better access. I had assembled a 1/4" ball valve, tee, pressure gauge, compressor hose quick connect and 1/4" airline quick connect with about 3' of 1/4" hose. Started plugging test hose into different fittings and closing the ball valve with trapped pressure. One of the air bag original quick connect fittings was leaking which is why the fittings were replaced. Cleaned the recessed area around the airbag fittings b4 removal and replaced both with DOT 1/4"MNPT by 1/4" hose DOT compression fittings, a new quick connect tee with 1/4" MNPT screwed into the bulkhead fitting at the frame and new hoses in the wheel well. With compression fittings, I tested the two air bags separately. Added air until around 70 psi and then measured the ride height, around 9-1/2". Let set overnight and the ride height did not go down so pretty sure the bags were not leaking. Back tested from the bulkhead fitting to the Hadley HCV and the air dump solenoid and no leak down over 4 or so hours. Yesterday afternoon plugged everything together and ran engine to get to 120 psi tank pressure. Mid morning today the pressure was down to 95 psi and coach was level. Before this last work the pressure would have been below 30 psi after 14 hours. This is now in an area of leakage that I can live with. Bought enough fittings (~$4 each) to replace on the other 6 bags and 3 of the swivel tees (~$7 each). The previous owner had a blow out on a tire in this wheel well. Not sure if maybe a hose was damaged and had a small leak that I could not test as it was inside the plastic wrap. It appears that the Hadley HCV product line has been sold to a company called Link Manufacturing. After 3 weeks of calling, I finally got thru to some one that only knew a little about the HCVs. Been waiting 3 days now for a call back. Will try again on Tuesday, not holding my breath. The online sales company I bought the first valve from has given me a return authorization to see if they will warranty the valve. Would like to get my ~$100 back or a good valve as a spare. David L. brought up the safety aspects of working under the coach which is extremely important. Brother-in-law is rancher. I found some 6" dia by 1/2" wall pipe 14" long in one of his junk piles. Cut some 1" plate to cap the pipes and adjust height using 2x12s. As David said, the square tubing for the trailing arms makes a great support point. Tires up on 2x's and good support under the frame gives a secure feeling when under the coach. Safety glasses to protect those very valuable eyes.

2004 Scepter - single dump valve in front, one each side rear. I dump when in accessory ignition position. Not sure if they dump when powered, my preference would be to not dump when the key is on. All the air in both tanks is flowing thru 1/4" airlines to the height control valve and then to the dump solenoids. If I am in a hurry, I open the manual dump valves on the tanks. Applying brakes as suggested would also lower the tank pressure quicker. The fitting on the upper port of the valves in the picture has a built in screen as others have said to keep stuff out of the valve. I would suggest removing the fittings and dumping system to see if that speeds up the process.