Steve P

The back panel pops off (mounted on spring clips. The front of the box on mine has four wood plug concealing screws. Once the back is off, the disassembly gets easier... Just make sure to put the back on very firmly before travel, to avoid a near heart attack when braking for a corner... not that I would know from experience! Hah!

@Ted Carbonaro Just out of curiosity... What does a reasonably priced roof ladder from REV cost these days? And is it full length, only top half, or only bottom half?

I saw a post that suggested this as standard practice... the logic seemed to be that the toll applies to the vehicle under power. Otherwise, you'd need a transponder for a trailer if you decided to pull one on a trip. I haven't had any issues from FL, GA, NC, VA, PA, or NY.

Uni pass: Two thumbs up!! Buy one for the MH and one for the Toad. Keep Toad transponder in the foil bag until driving it solo. Bought mine on the EZPass website in Orlando, although I am a Georgia resident. $15 each. Had them 3 years. Only had to dispute one toll with PA... a charge of $124 that I eventually got an $87 credit against, which EZPass then credited back to my credit card on file. So convenient, and no stopping. No ridiculous surcharges for "Bill-to-License-Plate".

Rolling this morning, and will measure she settled in FL Tues or Wed... thanks, I have VOM and will do as described

Maybe... testing again this morning to make sure. Too little sleep 2 nights in a row!

After an hour, it reverted to "Float charging 13.9V 0A", so if I understand that's a good sign. Even if it can't obtain "Full Charge". I'll wait a few mins and see what happens when I cut off the genny and try the Inverter again. If the voltage plummets, I'll just cut off the Inverter, and hope the Norcold will still work (has been on AC since the genny is on). And that the MH starts in the morning. And now the panel is staying in Float charging, with about 13.4V, but fluctuates between 0A, 17A, 3A... no pattern. Didn't work... 45A draw as soon as I hit Inverter. 13.2V goes down to 12.0 in 15-30 seconds. Maybe the house batteries are bad?... new problem for tomorrow

Well, we are trying things out but we have no shore power as backup. The generator ran 3-4 hours this afternoon, and we had the A/C's going to keep cool. I thought it was charging the house batteries. But maybe not... it was showing float charging at 14.3-14.4V on the Magnum remote the entire time. Note: I did not press either the Charger or the Inverter buttons while running the genny. When I shut off the genny, the Magnum remote read 13.2V. The EMS showed a draw of about 10A. I unplugged everything I could think of and reduced that to 5-6A. Then I turned on the Inverter using the button on the Magnum remote. Immediately, the voltage started dropping and within a minute it hit 12V, then 11.9. I turned off the Inverter. Thinking maybe the charge button needed to be On, I fired up the genny again and the screen read "Charging 71A" for about 1 minute or so while the voltage climbed from 12V to 14 3V. Then it went to "Absorb Charging 17A" and has been reading that for about 30 mins. I'm hauling out the Magnum manual again to review the instructions in light of my experience. If anyone has insight to correct procedure or best practices, I'm all ears. When I read the manual, it all seems si simple, but the execution is confusing to me. Is the Magnum remote in any way automatic, or is it totally driven by the user inputs? Thanks, Steve

Sounds like one of those people who seriously believe everything bad that happens is the other person's fault. They can't seem to see the connection between reaping and sowing... I just wave and smile big. And pray he/she is not stupid enough to brake check me! I no longer have my youthful reflexes!!

You may be able to change manually to a lower gear, but determine the most efficient RPM range for your engine and transmission. In my case that is 1500-2000 rpm. And if I press the pedal halfway, it may downshift one gear (5th to 4th, or 6th to 5th), that's all. I just hit cruise to resume previous speed when I start down the on-ramp, and I'm usually doing 55ish when it's getting time to merge, and still increasing. The truckers will move over if they can. Both cars and truckers seem to slow down rather than crashing into a 55-60 foot long vehicle. There is the occasional individual with the deluded certainty that they are indestructible and immortal. Braking for them slightly keeps you clear of being the one to shatter their delusion, and screwing up your life. Oh, be advised that mashing the pedal to the floor wastes fuel and gives the cylinder walls a bath, removing the oil that is needed for lubrication and therefore, increasing friction and wear.

6-7mpg for me @33,000 lbs towing 5,000 lbs

Looked it over tonight... looks like the entire panel that looks like carbon fiber (but probably is plastic) has to be unscrewed from the far left of the dash to the right side above the storage drawers. Then it would appear that one has access to everything, including the headlight switch.

Thanks Tom. F25 is good, and F4 is too (0 ohms on the multimeter in place or when removed. The headlight switch will have to wait. No time to try that until next week. I don't even know how to get the cover off the top of the dash. Or if I can get access from below. I will seach for the post I read a few weeks ago. Another day... another session of deep thinking and knuckle busting.

The backlights on my individual analog gages such as rpms speedometer etc. are not working. The headlights work,andy overhead light work when you twist the knob to the left although it is a little flaky and stubborn. I checked the front run bay driver side fuses - the dash gauge fuse and the panel lamp fuse and both are good. I'm studying The wiring diagrams to see if it could be anything else other than the headlight switch. Maybe someone with prior experience could offer advice? Or ask me diagnostic questions? Humble thanks, Steve

No IOTA. See pics. Thanks for the very valid concern! Light Power Systems LPT50MRD. Is the 2009 Knight likely to be mostly like my 2008 (built June 2007)?

Thanks for the diagram and the explanation. This will make it very easy to no what to do to jump if I have to. Unlike you, i do not have any wiring diagrams other than those that Myron Truex sent me in a very helpful OneDrive set that starts with 2005 and goes up from there. I am wading through those diagrams to solve an instrument cluster lighting problem on the analog gages, even though they are for a 2009 model.

I'm all for keeping it simple... I need to look harder at the wiring of the 2 battery banks. I suppose if I identify the positive and negative ends of each chain of batteries, I will know which end is plus and which end is ground for each bank, and I can connect house plus to chassis plus and house ground to chassis ground. Is that correct?

After a recent lengthy discussion on boondocking, I have determined that my generator uses the house batteries for starting. I would like to rewire it to start on the chassis battery bank. I think the connections are in either the driver run bay or the passenger side battery bay. How do I determine which? Should I submit pics of both bays? Procedurally, I'm sure I need to shut off bypass switches or disconnect cables, but I'm not sure of which ones, in what order, etc. Thanks in advance for any advice or pointers. Steve

In response to several comments and pleas for info and pics, here goes: my generator will start only if the House Battery Bypass switch is on (it will not start with the House switch off and the Chassis switch on -- the primer pump clicks regardless of which switch is off... perhaps to allow use of the Battery Boost switch on the driver side control panel?). Please see attached pics of my BIRD, the solenoid in the battery bay, the battery maintainer, AND what appears to be another solenoid in the front driver run bay above and to the right of the BIRD (curious to know what this is for).

The coolant sensor has a part number PBT-GP30 (might be PBT-6P30), a Cummins part number. Does anyone know -- Is that the same part as the Ford part number in the Monacoers parts list (XC4Z-10D968-AA)?

I never really thought the discussion was off the rails, and certainly not WAY off. Some of the opinionated and extremely verbose comments distracted, but were helpful after drilling down. The subject of boondocking is wide and varied... deep waters!

@jacwjames Yep, the coolant sensor is in such a confined space on the right side of the tank that I can't get a picture of it (to see the part number). So I'll have to risk trying to remove it, OR, identify the part number for it from a 2008 Monaco Knight wiring diagram (searching now -- I think @myrontruex did give me all OneDrive files and it might be in those.

Correct, I do not have AGS. Clarifying, I definitely have a BIRD in my front left bay (it is factory labeled), and a solenoid that may or may not be operable in my battery bay. The reason I say "not" is because the first winter I owned the beast, I had 20A shore power and the house batteries were fine, but the chassis batteries went dead (although they did recharge and are still fine. My Magnum is a less fully functioned version that is set according to what Magnum specified in a conversation with their tech (assuming I can follow directions 😉). Thanks everyone! Someday I may get a battery shunt and monitoring software, and a Blue Sea monitor thing, and a TPMS, and Starlink, ... yeah when the IRS suspends income tax! Tonight, I discovered the lights in my instrument cluster no longer work, so that's the next priority, although I rarely drive the beast at night, right after I fix the coolant sensor. It's like the nightmare of hobbies!!

Mine has always been a side sensor, fist on the nylon/plastic tank, now in aluminum. Wiring could be shorted, but first checking coolant, then sensor cleaning and perhaps replacement. If that fails, the painful process of digging up a wiring diagram and tracing wires will commence.