Steve P

I'll be doing the water heater PEX fitting replacement starting Monday morning. My procedure will be: 1) Cut off propane tank, 2) burn off propane in line with stovetop, 3) disconnect gas line in WH bay from feed pipe, 4) unplug 120V WH plug from outlet, 5) disconnect 12V line to WH, 6) remove water hose hose connection in water bay, 7) start WH draining, 😎 open winterization drains for hot and cold in water bay. 9) When water heater is empty, remove it. 10) Repair PEX fitting or maybe both fittings to water inlets (hot and cold). 11) Reverse steps 1-9 and test all connections for leaks (especially the propane line). 12) Refill water heater and check that both 12V gas and 120V elements are working to heat water. That's all I could think of, so IF anything is missing, please fill me in with your thoughts... And thanks in advance. Steve P

Read my previous reply please

Hooray, the GFCI replacement with a Leviton from HD fixed the problem and all outlets are working again. The water leak / cracked threaded PEX connector is having to wait until after a campsite change and a doctor visit for my wife. Too much stress to deal with already for both of us. I will fix it Saturday, weather permitting. Thanks for all the help and advice! You guys are the best!! Steve P

The color on your coach has probably faded some... I called around different NAPA auto parts stores and found one that did computer color matching with a portable "gun". They did all four of my colors. There was no obvious difference in the old and the new. Note: This isn't like the touch up paint for your car from an Auto dealer. It's lacquer in essence, sort of the raw material for a paint shop to use to repaint or touch up. It has to be mixed with a hardener, purchased separately, before being applied. And then a clear coat has to be applied. Yeh, I know, not the touch up in a bottle... but a good auto paint shop may be able to suggest a workable alternative.

@Rikadoo and others - we are currently camped in Melbourne FL, so the objective is to have all water and electric except the WH working while doing the repair. Anything gas we can do without during the repair. Problem: I can't see a way to cutoff the input cold water supply to the WH. Is there a way? Without it, the only choice seems to be to cutoff water to the entire coach and drain the lines, and drain the WH.

I need to repair the water heater line that is leaking first, and then when it's not making the WH compartment damp, I'll continue fixing the GFCI. But I will probably replace the GFCI as a first step since it's so old one night when I'm not working outside on the WH. I will post progress here soon.

I borrowed the pic because the PEX and connections are like mine. I have no access that even resembles what is suggested by the pic. I'm sorry if I didn't make that clear. My WH is in the basement level with a small 5x8 inch door thru the basement wall to the back left of the WH. @Martinvz Excellent suggestion! And I have the recargeable one with me... that's what I'll do. After using soap solution to confirm no gas leaks. 😉 I ought to be able to crimp a new one in place with some tape to hold the band in place... fingers crossed!

MODERATPR NOTE THIS POST WAS A SEPARATE TOPIC. THE LEAK WAS DISCOVERED WHILE TROUBLE SHOOTING THE MALFUNCTIONING GFCI. THESE TWO TOPICS ARE COMBINED IN ONE FOR CLARITY AND TO KEEP FROM BOUNCING BACK AND FORTH. THIS IS AN EXCEPTION TO THE NORMAL RULES FOR A SINGLE TOPIC FOR EACH PROBLEM END OF MODERATOR NOTE This is what the back of my water heater piping looks like but I do NOT have an access hatch to the back. My WH is at basement level and it seems the only access is a 5x8 hatch at the left side of this picture but 2ft inside one of my basement doors. And there is only 4-6 inches clearance behind the WH... so here's my question: The red pex pipe at the top left has a cracked screw-on connector on the right end (in gray in the pic). This will mean unclamping the pipe on the left end, unscrewing the assembly, and making a replacement. However, with too little room to get two hands in behind the bypass valve and a very cramped area for one-handed maneuvering of a pex uncrimp/recrimp tool. So I think I'm going to have to pull the entire WH. I'm crushing brain cells trying to think of a way to not have to do it, and at the same time what the steps would be to remove the WH entirely (turn off gas valve, disconnect gas line, unplug 120vAC plug, check length or figure out how to unplug 12v wiring, disconnect cold in and hot out lines... and what else!!??). Thoughts? Similar experience? Creative solutions?

The water heater is not on the GFCI circuit. It is the TV outlet inside the passenger rear bay that backs up to the water heater area that is protected by the GFCI in the rear bath that is tripping.

During outlet inspection and unplugging, I discovered that the water heater bypass valve connection is leaking (about a drop every 5 seconds). The Pex connector looks cracked (see pic). The optional outlet box for the outside television backs up directly in/next to the water heater space. There is a plastic "wall" between the water heater and the outlet (see pic). I am wondering if perhaps the moisture content in that cubic foot or so of space could causing that outlet, which is a GFCI protected outlet on the same circuit, to trip the GFCI.

Will do, Thanks!

MODERATOR NOTE TWO TOPICS HAVE BEEN COMBINES AS THE RECENT FIND OF THE WATER HEATER FITTING LEAK MAY BE IMPACTING THE FUNCTION AND RELIABILITY OF THE GFCI. ORDINARILY TWO TOPICS BUT THE BOUNCE BACK AND FORTH AND PICTURES MAKE IT DIFFICULT TO FOLLOW. END OF EDIT I was following a recent GFCI thread last week for educational purposes. Tonight's events make it more of an urgent concern. Tonight, the GFCI circuit in the rear bath tripped. It will hold a reset for perhaps fifteen seconds, and then trip again. To start, it would seem that 8 outlets, including the Norcold fridge, are affected... the GFCI in the rear full bath, one on the BR wall that divides it from the bath, the fridge outlet, the outlet in the half bath, a kitchen outlet on the bottom of a cabinet, one in front on the rightside of the center console, and the multi above the driver for TV, receiver/amp, TV switcher, and antenna preamp, and one in the passenger bay that could host a TV. And the Inverter breaker apparently controls the feed to the line side of the GFCI (correct?)... I also have a 2nd series of outlets that are on the kitchen GFCI that are working fine. My plan is to turn off the Inverter breaker and remove all the outlet covers to check wiring is secure and if screwed in, confirm tightness. Should I check with a VOM for correct voltage, or high resistance or anything? If none of the previous checkups restore GFCI outlet operation to normal, I will then replace the GFCI after locating the "approved list" somewhere on this site. If anyone has suggestions for other testing, I would appreciate your input. And if anyone has a wiring diagram specific to my coach and model (below), please, please share. I would really like to take them to Fedex/Office and get them printed. P. S. My Norcold fridge is running on propane (since it is on one of the outlets in the chain), so I will be tackling this Tuesday, and working until I have it resolved. Thanks in advance, Steve P

@dl_racing427This sender replacement is also in my future. Can you provide specifics on a supplier for the conventional float sensor?

@cbr046 And what code did it throw on the diagnostic connector/port? Or what pointed you to the PS fluid?

If I knew what module and its location, that would be the next step... still looking

Post #4 explains how I arrived at this being a coolant level sensor or a short. It was never described as anything oil related. That came out of left field. There is no buzzer buzzing. The lamp on the dash says "Warning". The warning is still lit when the sensor is unplugged. Which to me supports an argument that a wire is shorted. The coolant level sensor does not appear to use a float. It's a sealed unit, screwed in horizontally, with 2 flat pins inside the tank, and a 3 pin connector to the wiring harness. I'm still searching my files for a wiring diagram... 👀

Well, the saga continues... checked the coolant level and it's fine. Cleaned the sensor, and no change. Replaced the sensor (very hard to confirm backward compatibility)... no go. I started tracing the wiring (it's inside a cable sheath) and about 8" back from the sensor it routes under a 3/4" piece of plywood with a steel L-bracket that is clearly crushing the sheath and wiring. In any case, it's impossible to see where the wiring goes without removing a fuel filter, power steering reservoir, coolant overflow tank, and more, then the bracket itself. The alternative is to determine where the wiring originates and run new wires. I am trying to find the coolant level sensor wiring diagram for the 2008 Knight if anyone happens to have one in file. Thanks in advance. Steve P

Yes indeed.

@Tom Cherry Inquiring minds... how do we know whether our genny has brushes and needs exercise, or is brushless and does not? I am glad you brought this up... I have not seen it in the genny posts I have read. All I know is that mine is an 8K diesel Onan, and I service it regularly (oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter). And like @Dr4Film, we run ours a lot while traveling, sometimes for air conditioning, and definitely at lunch. As described, we use Mode to control A/C, not the on/off switch. Brushes, or no brushes?... above my current pay grade and experience.

@Russell Have you tried contacting Hamsar at hamsar.com or the number they list? One would hope they can identify a cross-reference relay with the same functions. Some manufacturers emboss the relay info into the plastic housing, making it harder to see. HD Switch 12V 40A Waterproof Relay Replaces Hustler 601053 026237 Super Z Super Mini Z ZR7 X-One Z4 Sport Super Fastrak Raptor Mini Fastrak Mowers w/LED & Dielectric Grease https://a.co/d/052CZaY That one on Amazon appears to have the same diagram as yours.

Tags are labels, essentially keywords. They can be used later in a search.

Wow! What a difference!! Next upgrade: Just add wings, and you could taxi for takeoff !!!

Veurinks. They will have the logo too. They will need to know how many tabs hold yours in place.

I pulled the coolant level sensor today and sure enough, the part number is PBT-GP30. Previously, Cummins could not find that part, and said to check with the RV side, which to them meant chassis; Freightliner, Roadmaster, whoever. I have an RR8R chassis, and Googling Roadmaster helped not at all. I had previously googled PBT-GP30, and found numerous sources offshore, none of them claiming to be OEM. I ordered from one that looked the least dicey today (fingers crossed). We'll see what happens. Oh, the sensor also had a embossed number in it: 070511. That didn't yield anything on Google or Cummins Quickserve. How can one small part be so hard to find?

Is yours a UNI transponder? And what state/entity issued it? Have you logged into their website and checked to see if it has an axle count you can configure?