Steve P

It's worth a try -- thanks! I will try that after I verify the coolant level (the sight glass is annoyingly small), so I need to create a measuring stick or purchase a thin straight piece of glass/plastic tubing as a verification.

Started to ask why the chassis wouldn't just stay fully charged... then started to wonder what besides the dash radio would drain the chassis batteries, and realized, I don't know -- more to learn! More reading of the manual. It's amazing how quickly I forget...

My nextdoor neighbor owns a chimera trucking company and he brought home one of his $10,000 test sets. Thank God cir great neighbors! Turns out the only code is a coolant sensor issue, either low coolant or a bad sensor, or a short to ground on one of the wires. I unplugged the sensor and plugged it back in... same code. Tomorrow I will stir the coolant just to confirm the level. If that fails, it is back to the shop for further diagnostics.

Two actually, one analog and one digital. Why do you ask? I thought the inverter/EMS would give me the voltage readings...

Everyone's insights are tremendously helpful. I'm just wanting the convenience of overnighting at a Cracker Barrel or similar. Maybe Harvest Hosts if that goes well. And after that, who knows, maybe NP / BLM... GOOD tip Rick N on using the battery disconnects to see what the generator uses for starting ! Tom - I'm still digesting all your advice before I start any battery testing. As far as my BIRD, the previous owner said he just used the battery maintainer on the side of the battery compartment to charge the chassis batteries. It wasn't until a couple months later the solenoid in the BIRD circuit must be bad... although I haven't tested it (too many other projects).

I'd rather have something Bluetooth that alarms me when the voltage drops, but I have bigger fish to fry before departure Saturday...

Clearly, the first few nights, I am not going to sleep well (due to frequent battery checks!).

I'm drowning in info... I guess it would have been good to mention that I have 4 AGM batteries for the house, and two larger ones for the chassis. I also have a Magnum inverter, and the Intellic EMS remote. If the EMS has an AGM setting, that's what it's on... I can't remember, but I did check it last year.

On the 15 mi drive home from routine service, the warning light came on the dash. See pics of manual #6.. Only service Items were Differential lube change and greasing all the grease points, drain fuel filter, drain air valves. Temps were in normal ranges in the way home. Oil pressure good. Electrical protection circuits suggests what? I guess I will need to go back and have the guy pull the Cummins cods(s) and hope thar points to the problem?

Can anyone recommend a website or article with the basics for boondocking in a Class A? We "think" I know the basics... We have no solar. We don't have an Auto Generator Start, so we have to manage power consumption ourselves. Fridge and heat and water heater will run on Propane. Turn off the water heater after showers. Inverter will switch from inverting to charging when the generator is running, but does it charge the house batteries exclusively, or does the BIRD govern what is charged? We know to unplug chargers and such from the outlets. Don't run the microwave unless the genny is running. If batteries show 10.5-11 volts in the inverter, should we start the Generator to charge them, or wait (until what voltage?)? The Generator starts using the chassis batteries, right? Most lights are flourescent or incandescent, not LED, so we will try to minimize their use. We don't know how parasitic the Macerator toilets (2) are. We will switch off the motion-sensing porch light. Other than the above, some of which might be wrong, we are pretty uninformed. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve

Geffrey, If you choose to stay simple, I have a base and amber lens (cover) that I will part with for $15 plus the cost of USPS shipping. I bought the motion version from RV Lites, so this one is just in my spares tub. It even has an LED bulb for extra brightness. Steve P

Thanks! It looked larger from underneath than what I remember when filling the top... I'll open up the side hatch and confirm.

Spotted this while silicone spraying the jacks... will be bringing it to the mechanic's attention next week, but can anyone clue me in? Thanks, Steve

I had good fuses and a bad relay at one point. I think that only affected my brake lights, but I have slept a few times since then, so I'm not sure. Swap same part-numbered relays (a known good one with the possible bad one). Mine were in the left front run bay and the right rear run bay; no idea where yours might be, sorry. Look in the files section for a wiring diagram if you don't have one. And good luck... I hate electrical gremlins, but at least yours is a persistent problem rather than being intermittent.

Lots of personal choices... I've only driving about 2500-3500 miles per year. So a Rotella T6 oil change every 3-4 years is all that seems necessary, maybe even overkill. I'm going to have the front hubs repacked if the mechanic sees the need. Maybe I'll be checking with Josam's about changing to oil bath while in FL this winter. And the differential gear lube is going to get changed to synthetic... one question: is that drained out a drain plug, then filled using the test hole on the side of the differential? Thanks - Steve P

Thanks for pointing that out... so the maintenance schedule is repack the bearings with the prescribed grease, but don't replace (unless clearly damaged I guess)?

Back on the subject of front hubs, I pulled the covers of mine today, and took pics. There is not a lot of grease slinging around but there is some plainly visible that looks fairly fresh, although that may misleading... I guess the bearings could be bone dry and making metal. I'm still waffling about repacking vs. using a hypodermic needle vs. doing nothing, but will most likely try the hypodermic approach in the coming week or so. Here are the pics 3 of the right, then 3 of the left... above, below, and the cover inside. Thanks - Steve

Tom - I don't follow... the Mobil Delvac link has conforming specs. The Pennzoil link is not the specific oil called out in the manual as quoted above (and it may not be made anymore, as no Google search turns it up). I can't see anything that disqualifies the Mobil Delvac. This is a source I found and mentioned.: https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=mobil+delvac+75w-90+gallon+gear+lube&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1 If the link works correctly!

I just re-read the manual... it says to change the rear differential fluid every 250,000 mi or 3 years. It also says to use approx 15 qts of "API GL-5 or MT-1 type gear lubricant - Penzoil Gear Plus SUPER-ew 75w-90, Synthetic". So far, best price on a synthetic of that description (not Penzoil) is $151.98 for four gallons, plus shipping. Unbelievable! I'll keep price hunting, but having had the coach 3 years myself, it's definitely time to change the differential oil for peace of mind if nothing else. It may not have EVER been changed! Thanks, Steve

Note: I bought this beast with 69K miles and it now has 79,478. The previous owner's records were thin, and there's no indication that the bearings have ever been repacked. We run close to the max weight of 33K pounds most of the time, so it seems prudent to repack them. Thoughts? Yes, I'm beginning to pay attention to recurring/preventative maintenance (multiple emergency repairs took precedence), and bearings are moving near the top of the list. I will be pulling the covers / hubcaps today to determine what type of bearings I have... and then doing whatever needs to be done or getting it done by my local trucking company buddy. Question: on my Monaco Knight (no tag axle), are the rear axle bearings the same and is the process the same (repack if they are not oil bath)? Or something elsej? Another question: I am a little skittish about having this done -- something I read in this post about getting the assembly back in place just so, or it could actually increase the wear? What's that about and how do I determine it is being done right?

All the Eternabond stuff and the roller are on their way. Good fall project (November). Thanks everyone for sharing your experience!

From what I read on previous posts, the cure is to remove the topper, cut away the old tape, clean with alcohol, and tape over with and rollout new Eternabond... is that the consensus? Thanks - Steve

Methinks you all are referring to a CO (carbon monoxide) detector... CO2 (carbon dioxide) is all around you and essentially harmless, unless there is nothing else in your air supply. Is it possible that the wires are meant for a switch for a reading light? My '08 has one of those on each side.

I have at least 2 cracked tiles, but no obvious issues in 3+ years. I also have spares. If you see the tile pushing up you will only know if you have a problem if you remove the tile. Other posts have mentioned handheld rotary tile saws and Dremel type cutting tools (with eye protection, and a shop vac). Maybe you can post pics to get specific advice regarding the severity of your issue...

I've been pondering... just about concluded that I'm going to remove the film and buff out whatever is left of paint and wax it good. Then put the cover over it when parked. That way, no chafing of paint while driving. I'll reassess of course after I get the film off. Gonna be my October project... Looks great!! What make is that? And where/how did you purchase? Thanks, Steve P